I have a 340 watt Jensen amp powering a 400 watt pyramid power 8 inch sub and a 400 watt 10 inch Jensen sub. When the key is turned back to listen to the radio..the amp pumps like crazy with the level on 3 or 2 and the bass setting turned wide crack. As soon as you turn the car on...it kicks out and wont kick back on and stay on unless the level is on 6. And on 6 the subs dont pound. When you put the level on 3, with the car running...the amp will kick in for a split second but when a thump of bass comes it kicks back off. I have 10 gauge wire to the battery and 14 gauge for a ground. I also have the 2 subs tied into one and the amp bridged. If anyone could help me out on this that would be great! Ask all the questions you want about how i have it hooked and i'll try to answer them! Thanks!
ok..i just found a post with someone having the same trouble...I ahve the remote wire hooked with heavy speaker wire. I ahve the 2 wire twisted togther and running from the head unit to the amp in the trunk. If i bridge the power wire to the remote input and it works..then its the remote wire...and that means the head unit isnt putting out enough juice...?
wow man thats the problem right there you need a fuse, your ganna need atleast a 80amp fuse, I use a 150 amp fuse in mine but im pushing 5x as much watts, http://www.knukonceptz.com/productMaster.cfm?Category=Inline%20Fuse%20Holders your going to want to buy the In-Line Waterproof AGU Fuse Holder and go here http://www.knukonceptz.com/productMaster.cfm?Category=Fuses and get a gold plated AGU 80 amp fuse. its simple you run aprox 6 inches of power wire from battery then connect 1 end of the fuse holder then connect the rest of of the wire running to your amp into the other end, making you power wire fused with 80 amps and you should be all set it will cost you like 15 bucks total
Ok great...I looked at walmart tonight but all i could find was a 30 amp fuse for an airconditioner..However..I did manage this after noon to fix the cutting out part. I had the 2 subs wired into one positive and one negative. So today I ran separate wires to each sub and instead of bridging to the amp. I used all 4 channels. It fixed it. But i still need to get a fuse to save my car though. Might wake up and my car will be burnt up. Thanks for the info however! It's very useful to me. Another question I have is the wiring to my dash lights. The dash lights and the blinker lights..and the tail light are always on when my car is on. Not when the light switch is on. There are 2 wires coming from the harness out the car to run these lights and they went into the stock deck. When I hooked up my JVC I couldnt figure where these wires went because there was no spot for them. I bought a wiring harness by scosche for quick hook up but i found that created more trouble so i took it out and hooked the cd player direct. So what I did was hook the wire for the dash lights to the key switch wire but i have no clue where to hook it so the dash lights will come on with the light switch....Theres only 3 wires for the stereo for power..live, switched and ground..If you have ne suggestions please let me know! Thanks!
back to yuor dash lights question, the orange wires are illumination wires, they are hooked up directil you your lights on you dash and stuff. you said that you hooked them up to your switch wire? dont, that will keep them on all the time. just disconnect them and cap them off, you dont have to have them hooked up. the purpose for them is to adjust the lighting on your head unit when you turn your head lights one, but like i said, just disconnect them from your switch wire and cap everything off and you should be fine
But if I leave them unhooked...the dash lights dont come on at all..so i cant see my gauges when driving at night..Thats why i hooked them to the switch because it was rather on all the time or none at all..