Sometimes i wanna cry


Bronze Member
Username: Thenoose

Post Number: 68
Registered: Mar-05
ive put numerous hours of work on my system and yet i still have engine noise coming out of my 2 infinity kappa 6x9s that are being ran of a mtx amplifier i have tried regrounding switching rcas running rcas on opposite side of the car as the power i have even spent money on different amps and yet i still can not get rid of my engine noise everytime i accelerate i wanna beat my speakers with a baseball bat i just dont know wat to do wat do u guys think because even the guys at my local audio shop are baffeled thanks for your help sorry bout the long post

NIck Price

Bronze Member
Username: Swantlaphoenix

Tucson, AZ

Post Number: 99
Registered: Oct-04
possible that the ground isnt right? I dunno though just an idea

Silver Member
Username: Sploosh56


Post Number: 594
Registered: May-04
have you checked the ground on your reciever/head unit? Is your alternator going bad?

Gold Member
Username: Subfanatic

Walton, Ky

Post Number: 3359
Registered: Dec-04
you have alternator whine, ill go find a post i typed up awhile ago cause i dont want to type it again, gimme a min

Gold Member
Username: Subfanatic

Walton, Ky

Post Number: 3360
Registered: Dec-04
Gold Member
Username: Subfanatic

walton , ky

Post Number: 2364
Registered: Dec-04
Posted on Tuesday, April 19, 2005 - 05:46 pm:

there are alot of options here, ill try to list them, it could be alternator whine , if it varies with engine speed, it is most likely alternator whine. as the alternator converts engine power to electrical power it produces a tone based on frequnecy. The frequency varies with engine speed, in which the higher the rpm the higher the pitch of the noise. IF the noise IS present while your car is not running(you already said its not) then it CANT be alternator whine, so this is still a possibility unless its there while the truck is not running.

niext possible noise is "radiated" noise, this is often called EMR(electromagnetic radiation)
in this it doenst travel through the power wires, but is trransmitter from the noise generating wire into whatever wire or circuit is withing the radiation field, its pretty difficult to correct because the path it follows is invisible. It is solvable and is not a reason to live with the noise. you can use a device called a "noise sniffer" or a EMR detector to find the hot sponts in the vehicle that are radiating the noise, for example, one of the most commen noise modes is when a head unit picks up the EMR that is radiated from the factory wiring in the dash. In this case you can use the head unit as a noise snifer since if you were to unmount the headunit and pull it gently away from the dah while it is playing you would notice the noise fading out. That meanst eh noise is being radiated from the surrounding wires and moving it away a few inches corects the problem, then you can jsut find the offending wire, usually the biggest gauge wire carrieing the current levels large enough to create a big noise field. Almost anything in the signal chain can pick up radiated noise. Power and preamp cables, processors, corssvers, speakers.
Last is "ground loops" if you consider what is happeneing with a ground loop, it makes understanding easy, each component has a differnt lenght of of power wire and draws a differnt amount of power. That means that the coltage dop on each power wire is not exactly the same, So if your headunit is recieving 12.2 colts after line losses and the amplifier in the trunk getting 11.8 colts after its line loss the difference is .4 volts. This differnece can try to baliace itsself out by taking a shortcu through the preamp cables. the preamp cables should be carrying no more than the audio signals, so when you add alternator wine, it adds to the music, basiccaly just pissin you off mo and mo. lol To deal with a ground loop you need to find out where the loop occurs, If the coltage is tring to return to the engatice terminal of the battery by traveling though the body of the vehicle and the preamp cables there will be a difffernec. By installing a ground loop isolator, you can ofter add enough ciruit isolation to force the DC to travel only along the ground wire and the cahssis of the truck, while the musicle signal uses the preamp cables.

Bronze Member
Username: Thenoose

Post Number: 70
Registered: Mar-05
yea i read that one awhile ago but the thing is i redid everytthing and checked everything and its still there.

Gold Member
Username: Fishy

Tamarac Ft.Laud, FL USA

Post Number: 1226
Registered: Sep-04
Diagnosing engine noise can be a big PITA. Have you tried a different groound point from the battery to the chassis? I don't have engine noise, but while playing around with a multimeter I found my stock location wasn't ideal. Using a long piece of 1/0 gauge hooked to my amplifier ground I found a better location that showed half the resistance and ran a length of 4 gauge from there to my stock location. Helped a bit resistance-wise.

It also could be a bad ground at the h/u between and your RCA's shielding(ground) and the radio's chassis.

First, of course, we have a signal source. If it is an indash radio, the case (outer metallic shell) of the radio is electrically connected to the chassis of the vehicle at it's point of mounting. If the radio is mounted in plastic , the radio's ground wire will make the connection to the chassis. Realize that the ground wire of the radio and the shield of RCA cable are connected together inside of the radio. I know that some radios have some sort of isolation between the radio's case and the audio ground but most are connected directly to the case of the radio. The only exceptions that I know of are the head units with balanced outputs through RCA jacks.

from here(#62 in the directory):

I've heard of some people solving extreme noise problems by "regrounding" ths rca ground(outside shielding) at the h/u.

First I'd find a good ground for your h/u if you're using the ground in your factory harness and ground the h/u there. If you still have engine noise attach another piece of wire there or to the h/u's chasssis(use very short screws otherwise you could damage some of the internal stuff), get the engine noise going and touch the other end of the wire to the outside of one of the RCA plugs. If the noise goes away you could lightly solder the wire to the OUTSIDE metal(shield) of one of your male RCA plugs for a more permanent connection.

Shot in the dark, but it shouldn't hurt anything to give it a try, especially if you've exhausted all other options.


Gold Member
Username: Invain

Michigan United States

Post Number: 2206
Registered: Aug-04
When Hunter was having noise problems with his Brahma, he grounded his RCA's and the problem was fixed. - Just an example to back up Fishy's advice.

Gold Member
Username: Carguy

Post Number: 2850
Registered: Nov-04
Nick, how many amps are you using in your system? Do you have 2 channel or 4 channel amp? You mentioned 6x9" speakers, are they for the front or the rear?
Before you spent your money on "amps", you should've posted on here. I would've recommended Xtant amp. They have a circuitry just for that. It will actually get rid of alternator noise.
Zapco can also do it using symbilink cable.

Bronze Member
Username: Stylnul

Vicky ville, CA US

Post Number: 45
Registered: Jan-05
i had the same problem with my equipment, but i just bought an electronic crossover, and it cleaned up the signal. its super clean sound and i have a better tuned system all around

Gold Member
Username: Hdubb

Farmington, Nm Usa

Post Number: 1379
Registered: Nov-04
yep thats what i was goin say. it worked. you know your 6x9s terminals could be touching metal which would do this too.
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