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Fuse Keeps Blowing

 

New member
Username: Davidnolen

Lexington, South Carolina USA

Post Number: 1
Registered: May-05
I have two 12' Pioneer subwoofers that max out at 450 watts, running on a 2 channel 250 watt amplifier. A buddy of mine bridged the amp, and it does sound a lot better since there pushing a lot more wattage. My question is, as soon as I turn it up loud, and have the bass up, it blows the fuse on my amp. What causes that and what should I do?
 

Gold Member
Username: Carguy

Post Number: 2751
Registered: Nov-04
Either your gain/level is not set correctly or the speaker's ohmage is too low. Check the wiring. Most amps are only 4 ohms stable when bridged.
 

New member
Username: Davidnolen

Lexington, South Carolina USA

Post Number: 2
Registered: May-05
How do I check the gain/level and make sure it's set? There was a setting on the amp, that said LPF, HPF and Off. I set it to off. Would I be better off getting a mono amp with more watts instead of bridging a 2 channel amp?
 

Gold Member
Username: Carguy

Post Number: 2754
Registered: Nov-04
2 channel amp you have is probably class AB. It uses more current than class D.
If you're using the amp with subs, then turn on the LPF and set the frequency to around 80Hz - 100Hz.
The gain/level should match your HU. Unless your HU is really old, it'll probably have 4v preout. So set your amp to 4v to match it. Setting that incorrectly will cause the amp to overload and heat up. It will eventually blow the amp.
It also looks like you haven't made any wiring changes to your 2 subs. So that means you're driving the amp with 2ohms or less in bridged mode. Unless your amp is 2ohms or 1ohm stable, it'll burn up.
 

New member
Username: Davidnolen

Lexington, South Carolina USA

Post Number: 3
Registered: May-05
If my amp is not 2 ohms or 1 ohm stable, would I be better off getting a mono block amp that has 1 ohm? To set the frequency to 80Hz-100Hz, I would set that using the cd player, or the setting on the amp that uses a screwdriver to turn? Oh yea, thanks for all the help so far.
 

Gold Member
Username: Carguy

Post Number: 2758
Registered: Nov-04
LPF on your amp. Most likely you will need a mono amp if you need more power. Look for 2ohms or 1ohm stable class D.
If your subs are 4ohms DVC, then it can be made to work with your existing amp.
Wire each voice coil in series on the subs, that way you will get 8ohms, then wire the 2 subs in parallel (pos to pos and neg to neg) for 4ohms total load. This should now work fine with your 2 channel amp.
 

Gold Member
Username: Subfanatic

Walton, Ky

Post Number: 3237
Registered: Dec-04
isaac, is the interfire audio IB1900C amp, 2 ohm stable bridged???? or 1 ohm stable bridged??? lol...www.interfireaudio.com thanks
 

New member
Username: Davidnolen

Lexington, South Carolina USA

Post Number: 4
Registered: May-05
My subwoofers are about 2 years old. I dont think there dual voice coil. Should I get a new system instead LOL?
 

Gold Member
Username: Subfanatic

Walton, Ky

Post Number: 3239
Registered: Dec-04
well if you take your subs out you could find out if they are dvc or svc
 

Gold Member
Username: Subfanatic

Walton, Ky

Post Number: 3240
Registered: Dec-04
on the question i posted for isaac disregard, for some reason i thought i was making my own thread lol
 

Gold Member
Username: Carguy

Post Number: 2760
Registered: Nov-04
Subby, it doesn't look like the IB series are 2ohms or 1ohms stable. For that you will need to look at IFH series.
 

Gold Member
Username: Subfanatic

Walton, Ky

Post Number: 3242
Registered: Dec-04
ok thank you, but ive ran it bridged at 1 and 2 ohms before for like weeks, and nothign went wrong with itm, David sorry for hijacking your thread, my apologies
 

Gold Member
Username: Carguy

Post Number: 2763
Registered: Nov-04
If you value your subs, don't take too many chances. There's a reason why Interfire is not listing 2ohms and 1ohm settings.
 

Gold Member
Username: Subfanatic

Walton, Ky

Post Number: 3243
Registered: Dec-04
haha, lol i guess, but i never had any probs with it like that, well i was just wondering, thanks, but if its not stable like that, what are the drawbacks to it, and the pros to it if it is or somen
 

New member
Username: Davidnolen

Lexington, South Carolina USA

Post Number: 5
Registered: May-05
No problem subfanatic. I dont mind if you use my tread. The subwoofers I have now are not dual voice coils. So, I should just change the setting to LPF and turn it between 80Hz-100Hz
 

Gold Member
Username: Carguy

Post Number: 2765
Registered: Nov-04
Well driving an amp that's not 2ohms stable will have some serious consequences.
An amp relies on impedance (speaker ohms) to prevent excessive current from flowing into the output transistors. Going from 4ohms to 2ohms will basically double the current flow.
Now when the amp tries to drive the 2ohm sub at full rail voltage, the transistor's safe "operating" area/limit would be exceeded.
The thing with electronics components is, unlike human body that gets stronger when pushed, they just break down.
I don't think I need to mention the pros, cause it's common sense. You get more power at the expense of safety.
 

New member
Username: Davidnolen

Lexington, South Carolina USA

Post Number: 6
Registered: May-05
I guess the best thing to do is get a bigger amp. What I was going to do, since I have the money now. I was put the system I have now into my g/f car, and not bridge it. It worked, but now as powerful when it was not bridged. I really would like a nice and powerful system in my 98 Intrepid. What do you recommend on subwoofers and an amplifier? Something good, but not way too expensive.
 

Gold Member
Username: Carguy

Post Number: 2767
Registered: Nov-04
I'm into sound quality, so I will recommend things that fall in that category.
For subs, I like JL, RE.X.X.X, ID Max, Avalanche. For cheaper solution is RF subs.
For amps, Zapco C2K series, Arc Audio, US Amps, Xtant, Orion, JL, PPI, MTX.
 

New member
Username: Davidnolen

Lexington, South Carolina USA

Post Number: 7
Registered: May-05
Out of those subs and amps you listed. What's the best overall package. Which amp and sub would go best. Where could I get them at?
 

Gold Member
Username: Carguy

Post Number: 2768
Registered: Nov-04
My first choice would be JL sub and Zapco C2K 6.0 or 9.0 amp.
If that's too pricey, try Avalanche and Xtant/Orion/JL.
For louder bass, go ported.
 

New member
Username: Davidnolen

Lexington, South Carolina USA

Post Number: 8
Registered: May-05
I like the JL subs. I know a few people to have them. Where could you get the Zapco amp at?
 

New member
Username: Davidnolen

Lexington, South Carolina USA

Post Number: 9
Registered: May-05
Those amps are really pricey LOL. I like a lot of Bass. My truck rattles a lot. Do you know another alternative to the expensive Dynamat stuff?
 

Gold Member
Username: Carguy

Post Number: 2772
Registered: Nov-04
If the amps are pricey, then try PPI's PC/PCX series. They cheaper on eBay. Also look at Orion HCCA, Xtant, and MTX.
Dynamat isn't expensive on eBay. Very reasonably priced.
 

New member
Username: Davidnolen

Lexington, South Carolina USA

Post Number: 10
Registered: May-05
Great man, thanks a lot. I currently have 8 guage wiring running to the battery from my current amp. Should I go to 4 gauge if I get JL subs and a PPI amp?
 

Gold Member
Username: Carguy

Post Number: 2776
Registered: Nov-04
It'll depend on the amp. For up to 40A (I (40) x V(12) = 480w), 8 gauge is good enough.
Anything higher, 4 gauge will be required.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Davidnolen

Lexington, South Carolina USA

Post Number: 11
Registered: May-05
I purchased a 800 Watt Mono Block, class D, same thing. I am running 8 gauge wire to my two 12 inch 450 watt subs now. Is 8 gauge fine? I also have a 30 amp inline fuse near my battery, should I get a bigger one. I blew the inline fuse on the way home from a friends house? Should I get a 60 amp inline fuse since my new amp has two 30 amp fuses? someone help me!!! LOL
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