I have two 12' Pioneer subwoofers that max out at 450 watts, running on a 2 channel 250 watt amplifier. A buddy of mine bridged the amp, and it does sound a lot better since there pushing a lot more wattage. My question is, as soon as I turn it up loud, and have the bass up, it blows the fuse on my amp. What causes that and what should I do?
How do I check the gain/level and make sure it's set? There was a setting on the amp, that said LPF, HPF and Off. I set it to off. Would I be better off getting a mono amp with more watts instead of bridging a 2 channel amp?
2 channel amp you have is probably class AB. It uses more current than class D. If you're using the amp with subs, then turn on the LPF and set the frequency to around 80Hz - 100Hz. The gain/level should match your HU. Unless your HU is really old, it'll probably have 4v preout. So set your amp to 4v to match it. Setting that incorrectly will cause the amp to overload and heat up. It will eventually blow the amp. It also looks like you haven't made any wiring changes to your 2 subs. So that means you're driving the amp with 2ohms or less in bridged mode. Unless your amp is 2ohms or 1ohm stable, it'll burn up.
If my amp is not 2 ohms or 1 ohm stable, would I be better off getting a mono block amp that has 1 ohm? To set the frequency to 80Hz-100Hz, I would set that using the cd player, or the setting on the amp that uses a screwdriver to turn? Oh yea, thanks for all the help so far.
LPF on your amp. Most likely you will need a mono amp if you need more power. Look for 2ohms or 1ohm stable class D. If your subs are 4ohms DVC, then it can be made to work with your existing amp. Wire each voice coil in series on the subs, that way you will get 8ohms, then wire the 2 subs in parallel (pos to pos and neg to neg) for 4ohms total load. This should now work fine with your 2 channel amp.
Well driving an amp that's not 2ohms stable will have some serious consequences. An amp relies on impedance (speaker ohms) to prevent excessive current from flowing into the output transistors. Going from 4ohms to 2ohms will basically double the current flow. Now when the amp tries to drive the 2ohm sub at full rail voltage, the transistor's safe "operating" area/limit would be exceeded. The thing with electronics components is, unlike human body that gets stronger when pushed, they just break down. I don't think I need to mention the pros, cause it's common sense. You get more power at the expense of safety.
I guess the best thing to do is get a bigger amp. What I was going to do, since I have the money now. I was put the system I have now into my g/f car, and not bridge it. It worked, but now as powerful when it was not bridged. I really would like a nice and powerful system in my 98 Intrepid. What do you recommend on subwoofers and an amplifier? Something good, but not way too expensive.
I'm into sound quality, so I will recommend things that fall in that category. For subs, I like JL, RE.X.X.X, ID Max, Avalanche. For cheaper solution is RF subs. For amps, Zapco C2K series, Arc Audio, US Amps, Xtant, Orion, JL, PPI, MTX.
I purchased a 800 Watt Mono Block, class D, same thing. I am running 8 gauge wire to my two 12 inch 450 watt subs now. Is 8 gauge fine? I also have a 30 amp inline fuse near my battery, should I get a bigger one. I blew the inline fuse on the way home from a friends house? Should I get a 60 amp inline fuse since my new amp has two 30 amp fuses? someone help me!!! LOL