|
New member Username: BonediggerTyler, TX USA Post Number: 3 Registered: Feb-05 | I am going to install an MTX 2 channel amp in my Tundra to push my two Infinity front door speakers. Removing the doors for the speaker install was not overlly difficult but I'd like to keep from doing it again if possible. The salesman at Circuit City said the best course of action is to install the amp and run the speaker wires to the back of the new headunit. Then splice into the existing door speaker wires. Is this a good idea or do I have to run new speaker wire the whole way to each door speaker? Am I asking for trouble with this quick way of doing it? I don't want to get too much road noise or interference. I appreciate any input. Todd |
|
Gold Member Username: CarguyPost Number: 1627 Registered: Nov-04 | When you say "headunit" are you talking about the amp or the actual HU? That part is confusing. As for the wiring, cut into your existing speaker wires from the HU and use that. Use electrical tape on the cut wires from HU so that it won't short out. Leave enough wire for the future, in case you need sell your car or something. Now from your new amp, run the cable to this cut wire and connect them. Basically, you're using your existing factory wires. Last thing you want to do is create extra work. |
|
New member Username: BonediggerTyler, TX USA Post Number: 4 Registered: Feb-05 | Thanks, that helps a lot. I will be using audio wires from the headunit to the amp. Then I need to take the speaker wires from the amp to the speakers. I want to run the speaker wires to the existing speaker wires and splice in rather than running new wires through the door boots and to the speakers. Will this work then? It sounds like it from your post. Todd |
|
Gold Member Username: CarguyPost Number: 1630 Registered: Nov-04 | Yes, use existing wires. |
|
New member Username: Hpman2474Post Number: 2 Registered: Feb-05 | So, basically what Bonedigger is doing is running new wire from his amp to his head unit. once the new wire is at the back of the head unit, he will splice the new wire with the existing wire so that he doesn't have to run new wire throughout the car. Is this right Issac. If so, wouldn't it be just as easy to run all new wire to the speakers rather than running more or less the same amount of wire to the back of the HU to splice. Im new to this stuff so cut me some slack, but i dont see why you would use existing wire when you can just as easily run new wire that you would have to, I assume, run anyway. I probable got this all screwed up in my mind so if I went all off track please explain to my what I am thinking wrong. Thanks |
|
Bronze Member Username: TragedySan Jose, CA Post Number: 22 Registered: Feb-05 | If you have door speakers the only way you are getting the wire through the door is taking out the factory grommet (the rubber seal that runs the factory wiring to your windows, locks, whatever) and then running wire through. Not as easy as it sounds and takes alot more time. If you have speakers in your panels, well that requires you to take out whatever is in the way of removing your panels. In my case i removed my rear seats to get to my rear deck speakers. I guess its all about what your after. Factory wiring is generally 18-20ga for most everyday uses its fine to splice in. But if it really bothers you or you want the best sound possible run your own wires. I personally have done both. |
|
Gold Member Username: CarguyPost Number: 1634 Registered: Nov-04 | You can run your own wires but like TraGedy said, it's not easy running new wires into the door panels. For the amount of power you'll be sending to the front speakers, factory wires will be good enough. Wire manufacturers been brain washing consumers that thicker wire will somehow dramatically improve sound quality for years. That is not the case. Unlike power wires, which carry high current, speakers do not. So sure, you can use 8 gauge wires but it'll be an over kill. The only time when a thicker wire will be useful is when it comes to high powered subs. Anything over 1500W rms will carry high voltage, enough to shock you. So in those rare cases, 12-8gauge will be required. Other than that, just a waste of money. One more thing, when you splice into the factory existing speaker wires, make sure you cut off the HU wires so that it's not supplying power to the speakers at the same time as the amp. |
|
New member Username: BonediggerTyler, TX USA Post Number: 5 Registered: Feb-05 | Thanks for the help guys! This definately answers my questions. I think the easiest thing would be to simply run the speaker wire to the existing speaker wire and tap in (and cut from HU). This is not a very high powered amp so the existing speaker wire should be fine. One more question... This is a two channel amp. If I wanted to use this amp to power four speakers instead of two, is that doable and if so, how would I do it? I am considering maybe adding some 6 x 9 speakers to the rear suicide doors in the future, but not sure yet. Local audio guy says it can be done but I'll lose fade ability (not an issue in a truck). Here is a link to the amp I have: http://www.mtxaudio.com/caraudio/products/amplifiers/roadThunder202.cfm What do you think? Todd |
|
Gold Member Username: CarguyPost Number: 1639 Registered: Nov-04 | That amp you have is a very low powered one. You can power 4 speakers with it by pairing up. Take your front and rear speakers and connect them in parallel (pos to pos and neg to neg). This should give you 2ohms total. Do the same with the other pair of speakers. You should end up with 2 ohms on the left and right. Now your amp will operate in 2ohms mode, thus giving you more power. |
|
New member Username: BonediggerTyler, TX USA Post Number: 6 Registered: Feb-05 | Well, for $60 - $100 I could get a second amp I guess. Man, you have been a lifesaver. I appreciate the advice. Todd |
|
New member Username: Hpman2474Post Number: 5 Registered: Feb-05 | Yeah thank you guys for explaining this to me. Would any of you happen to know a website that I can go to that has pictures or video of actually splicing the wires from the head unit to the wire coming from the amp. Thanks again |
|
Gold Member Username: CarguyPost Number: 1646 Registered: Nov-04 | I doubt you'll find a video on it. Basically it's very simple. If you look at the back of your HU, you'll see a wiring harness. Find the speaker wires for left and right and cut it. Do leave enough length for the future, in case you are selling the car so that you can undo it. Now strip the wire from the speaker and the wire from the amp. Connect them together by soldering it or using wire connectors that you twist on. Always use electrical tape over it afterwards to avoid accidental short. |
|
New member Username: Hpman2474Post Number: 6 Registered: Feb-05 | Ok so I think I've got it now. The wires that I will need to cut are not actually on the head unit, they are on the OEM harness (what i mean by this is the harness that is originally there, not the one I have to buy for the HU to fit my car). If this is the case, then that is easy, because I can solder and crimp just fine, so that should be rather simple. Thanks Issac! |
|
Gold Member Username: CarguyPost Number: 1651 Registered: Nov-04 | Correct. It's easy once you know how things work. This is why some of those installers will not let you watch. |