Components, 6.5 speakers, capacitor & multi amp wiring questions...


Bronze Member
Username: Themax96se


Post Number: 12
Registered: Jan-05
I have 2 12" COUSTIC BP12X2A:

w/ a Lightning Audio FF250.1 amp:
Mono, 250wRMSx2Ohms /700 W Peak

hook to a weak 40x4 Kenwood HU...

The subs are wired together in a dual 12" sealed box, with the amp attached. I think I should be using a stronger amp, Crutchfield sells these exact subs in the box, with a Coustic 400wRMS amp (Im using only 250wRMS). When I turn it up, my headlights and interior lighting dims fairly bad. WHY? My weak amp, or HU? The battery is pretty new.

I am thinking about buying a capacitor. Do I need it? Will there be any benifits, even if I dont "need" it?

Secondly, I will have a few more LIGHTING AUDIO FF250.1, and the 2CH FF150.2 amps to use. So I want to upgrade my REAR factory 6.5" speakers in my 4th Gen Nissan Maxima (96-99). I am thinking about using the 2CH FF150.2 to power some components or just some good 6.5's. Everything now is in the trunk. But I would also like to replace the front 6.5's also, I just thought it would be harder to hook it too any amps. I want to utilize these amps I will be receiving, therfor am considering some decent components. Where are the best place for the components? Can I place them in the rear? What brand? And HOW should I wire them to the amps?

I have 4gauge wiring for the battery to a block with two 8gauge wires, one currently to the amp powering the 2 COUSTIC 12's. Do I split the remote wire to run more amps? What is the best way to do this?

I know these are alot of questions. I hope I can get some good feedback for I am looking forward to utilizing these amps, I understand they are not the best. BTW, the FF(fast & furious) series I believe are exactly the same as the BOLT series. I am on a low budget, and trying to get the best bang for my buck. When I get the proper instalation information, I figured it would be something like this:

- Each 12" Coustic would be hooked to one FF250.1 AMP running from a Lighting Audio 1 Farad Cap.
- A FF150.2 2CH amp to some decent 6.5's (doesnt have to be component, as long as they are good and utilize the amp power)
- And possible replace front 6.5's also.

So in addition to what I currently have, I would hook up a 1 farad cap, and 2 more amps. Is this wise? If it sounds okay, how should I go about it all? When is there a need for an additional battery? Thanks in advance, Louis.

Bronze Member
Username: Rzarector

Coquitlam, Bc Canada

Post Number: 81
Registered: Dec-04
what you need is a high output alternator.. your cars charging system cannot handle the load especially if u add another amp a capacator would help during peak demands but would be the magical fix for everything
didnt really understand u on the amplifiers
but you really need to upgrade your mono amp for your subwoofers and then get 1 good 4 channel amp for your speakers no need to run like 2 or 3 amps for speakers

Gold Member
Username: Carguy

Post Number: 1011
Registered: Nov-04
Okay, that was a long thread. First of all, to fix your light problem, you WILL need HO alternator. That is the only way. A capacitor will not fix that. If you don't have the money, then keep your volume down till you get one. If you ignore the warnings, you will blow your stock alternator/battery and or other electrical components in the car.
As for the remote wire, yes you can split them to power more amps. Since one amp is enough to cause the light dimming, I wouldn't attach any more amps.
For the 6.5" speakers, you can try Infinity coaxial ones. They're not the cheapest, but they sure give great sounds. If you have some cash, then go for component system.
Forget about the rears, use the stock ones. Front is more important cause that's where most of the sound imaging will take place.
For wiring multi amps, take the front and rear rcas from your HU and connet them to the front and rear amps. This means you'll have to cut the speaker wires that go to the HU and connet them to the amps. If your HU has a separate rca for the sub, then use that for the sub amp, if not you'll have to get a splitter for the rear rca and take it from there.
I'll give you a little tip on how caps sometimes CAN solve the light dimming problem.
Let's say a capacitor can hold 1 sec's worth of power. As long as the bass notes are less then 1 sec each, then your lights won't dim at all. However, if you increase the volume, that 1 sec of power will decrease in duration. So if the cap's charge is used up, then it'll have to wait for the power from your alternator. That's when it'll start dimming. And if your alternator can't supply the power, it'll try and get it from your battery. If you keep that up, sooner or later, your battery will die. Then your alternator will go.
So do not ignore the light dimmings.

Bronze Member
Username: Themax96se


Post Number: 13
Registered: Jan-05
Thank you for the responses so far.

I was looking into various Infinity models, I just thought it would be easier to hook a component system in the rear because of the amp location (probably a newB idea).

Oddly enough though, when I went to get a new battery a few months back, they checked my alternator and thought I already had an upgrade... I forget what it was putting out but the guy said it was alot more than normal. Considering that I dont understand why my system is drawing so much out, its not even THAT loud compared to other systems I've seen with a regular alternator/battery with no dim on the lights. I read somewhere that my amp might be the problem. SO... if I do use a capacitor and it stops dimming my lights, will it be safe to continue without worry of draining or shortening the life of either the battery or the alternator?

I have a reason to replace my rear 6.5s anyways cuz they blew a while back, and I did the most ghetto hook up becuase I didnt bother learning how to take out my back seat to replace them... in the Nissan Maxima. So yes, I was thinking replace all with Infinity Reference, and components in the front when its time. About buying more amps, this is what I am trying to avoid... I am trying to work with the amps that I have. I guess having 2 good amps is better than having 5 in this case, but my goal is to utilize the 250wRMS mono, and 150wRMS 2CH AMPs that I ALREADY have. I'll have as many as I can use. Oh yeah thats right... the problem is my HU only has 1 set of pre amp outputs. There isnt any way to "combine" both 250.1 amps together to run my subs is there?

Gold Member
Username: Carguy

Post Number: 1018
Registered: Nov-04
If you had a DMM, you could measure the current the amp's sucking up.
If by adding a cap solves your light dimming problem, then it should be okay. You mentioned that you already had an alterntor upgrade. Have you had it tested? Sometimes the alternator just blows. Measure the voltage before and after the engine starts. It should read 12.5V and 14V, if not very close to those numbers.
If your HU only has 1 rca preout, then you won't be able to use the fader. For now, use the rca to power your front, and with a splitter, use that for the sub amp. If you still need rears powered, then get a speaker wire to rca converter. Walmart has them cheap. It won't give you the best sound quality but at least your fader will work.
As for combining 2 amps, you'll have to explain more. What are you trying to do? I thought you only had one 250W amp?
One more note, be careful of where you take your car in for service. Long time ago, I had one of the crook mechanics steal my alternator and replace it with a sh**y one. I didn't know that till years later when it died.

Bronze Member
Username: Themax96se


Post Number: 15
Registered: Jan-05
Oh sorry I must have been saying things unclear, let me clarify...

I will be able to use an unlimited supply of the two mentioned amps.

I do NOT think I have an HO alternator, but when someone tested it, they told me it was outputting more than a stardard one should.

What do you mean by fader?

Gold Member
Username: Carguy

Post Number: 1026
Registered: Nov-04
If you only have 1 rca preouts from the HU, you won't be able to fade front to back nor balance it between front and rear.

Bronze Member
Username: Themax96se


Post Number: 33
Registered: Jan-05
Okay I was doing some more research... I knew there something wrong with putting components in the rear (becuase of imaging your saying). I used to think that because the rears are futher back, I should turn up the volume on them. I guess this is incorrect. My new idea and setup:

I will buy components for the front, and but the front stocks in the rear (they are all 6.5", I think they all the same around). What I would like to do is power the components with this amp I bought on eBay for $45 (used):

Frequency Response: 20Hz - 20000Hz

Input Voltage: 12.5V

Signal to Noise Ratio: 100dB
RMS Power at 2 Ohms: 60Wt x 2
RMS Power at 4 Ohms: 30 W x 2

It has preamp outputs, my question now is will this be good to run some components, and do I use the RCA outputs on this amp and run it to the other amp in the trunk, or do I need some kinda crossover?

I figured out my dimming was due to the amp/sub combo I was using. So as it stands, I am now trying to figure out how I use both amps still.

Thanks, Louis H

Gold Member
Username: Carguy

Post Number: 1046
Registered: Nov-04
Most amps come with crossover nowdays. If not you can always buy a coil/non polarized capacitor. They work just as good.
You can connect the 2nd amp with the preouts from the MTX amp. The MTX power is a tad too low for my taste. I'd recommend 75W - 125W rms cause most components are within that range anyways.
I hope you'll be operating in 2ohms mode for the front cause 30W is not much compared to 15-20W you get from HU.
The rear doesn't need much so your stock transfer from the front to back should work fine.
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