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Looking for a PowerAmp for Computer...

 

New member
Username: Ahmer

Hyderabad, Sindh Pakistan

Post Number: 9
Registered: Dec-04
Hello!
I am here to just bring my knowlede increase...
I am thinking to buy a PowerAmp to attach with my personal Computer...
I have limited knowledge about Car equipments or electronics...

1000 watts amp will be enough...
I want to power 2 12" SUB-woofers with a pair of
speakers...
I am buying a good condition second hand Amp..
Please tell me how to be able to make a cheap cost
sound system for computer....

 

Gold Member
Username: Glasswolf

NorthWest, Michigan USA

Post Number: 6995
Registered: Dec-03
for in-house use on 110/220VAC, use a self-amplified home stereo subwoofer with satellite speakers for full-range.
forget car audio in the house. It sounds lousy, it's expensive to set up a proper power supply, and it's pretty pointless.
 

New member
Username: Ahmer

Hyderabad, Sindh Pakistan

Post Number: 10
Registered: Dec-04
Hey Glasswolf...

I know what you are talking about...but i want to do it...I read some of the posts here...i
understand AC to DC converter or poweradapter with a require Ampearage for POWERAMP...

I estimate it...it is not as much expensive....
3 or 4 PC ATX powersupplies require...
You just tell me what should i do when i go to buy a second hand 1000 watts PowerAmp...want to attach 2 12" SUB-woofers...
How to choose a quality one...? i have seen some of the Amp's last time i just look 1000 watts at that time...nighther Brand name nor RMS etc...

Hope you will understand what i am looking for...
thanks in advance....
 

Gold Member
Username: Glasswolf

NorthWest, Michigan USA

Post Number: 7050
Registered: Dec-03
a 1000 watt amp needs 100A of current DC.
I don't use power supplies from computers to run car amps. it's dangerous and I won't be held liable if you set your house on fire.

 

Bronze Member
Username: Ahmer

Hyderabad, Sindh Pakistan

Post Number: 11
Registered: Dec-04
HOW....but here i read about PC ATX power supplies are best for convert AC TO DC....

Than what other people do to get 100 AMP from
a 12 watt power supply...

I think MR.Jonathan fry give here a ducument on "how to use an ATX power supply for multi-purposes....
 

Gold Member
Username: Glasswolf

NorthWest, Michigan USA

Post Number: 7065
Registered: Dec-03
the 12 volt positive rail on a PC power supply is only designed to supply about around 20A at most even for good, expensive power supplis.
That isn't enough for an amplifier.

if you're this dedicated to burning down your house, just google for info on doing it, or use gasoline.
it's cheaper.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Ahmer

Hyderabad, Sindh Pakistan

Post Number: 12
Registered: Dec-04
GLASSWOLF,may be i am not getting your way of thinking...
Is it impossible to run Poweramp at home by using
muliple PC ATX powersupplies together???

https://www.ecoustics.com/electronics/forum/home-audio/12235.html
 

Silver Member
Username: Fryguy

Nova Scotia Canada

Post Number: 477
Registered: Jun-04
I'm not glasswolf, but here is my experience.

Yes its possible to do (I have 6 supplies paralled together in an old 4U rack for amp testing), and safe once completed.
The purpose of the mod was to be cheep, simple and safe to run. Its NOT for everyone, if you have no knowledge of basic wiring don't attempt to build it.

(PS: glasswolf unless you tried this mod, stop flaming me on my mod please.)
 

Bronze Member
Username: Ahmer

Hyderabad, Sindh Pakistan

Post Number: 15
Registered: Dec-04
Fryguy,I read your ducumenthttps://www.ecoustics.com/electronics/forum/home-audio/Using_an_ATX_computer_power_supply_to_ make_a_scalable_multipurpose_power_supply-75898.doc
I will not do it my self but i will take help of a
good electronics technision...
Fryguy,Why don't you make a "VIDEO TUTOR" on
1)How to attach powerAmp with PC.
2)How to make PC's ATX powersupplies as PowerAdapter.

 

Silver Member
Username: Fryguy

Nova Scotia Canada

Post Number: 478
Registered: Jun-04
Now that it's become so popular and I have heard and seen some people make some real awesome portable systems (Big boom boxes)and everything else from simple testing to systems custom built-in their bed!

I'm currently busy with my business and making a new website. At the moment I'm a bit strapped for time to build a better guide now. After I get the site back up and on-line again I will start working on a better, more complete guide.

The guide will include all the common FAQ's that I have been asked repeatedly. I will include detailed pictures and maybe even some short videos that can be downloaded from my site.
 

Silver Member
Username: Lbeckner

Tulsa, Ok Usa

Post Number: 114
Registered: Oct-04
you need a sealed 12v battery and a battery charger.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Ahmer

Hyderabad, Sindh Pakistan

Post Number: 16
Registered: Dec-04
Fryguy...Doing a good job...

My first question still remains ...
At last i will buy any type of 1000 watts amp...
 

Bronze Member
Username: Ahmer

Hyderabad, Sindh Pakistan

Post Number: 17
Registered: Dec-04
You just tell me what should i do when i go to buy a second hand 1000 watts PowerAmp...want to attach 2 12" SUB-woofers...
How to choose a quality one...? i have seen some of the Amp's last time i just look 1000 watts at that time...never looked Brand name nor RMS etc...
Hope you will understand what i am looking for...
thanks in advance...
 

Scorpion Killer
Unregistered guest
Ahmer,search for (Alpine, Pioneer, Kenwood)they
are inexpencive but better in quality.
 

Scorpion Killer
Unregistered guest
Ahmer,search for (Alpine, Pioneer, Kenwood)they
are inexpencive but better in quality.
 

Gold Member
Username: Glasswolf

NorthWest, Michigan USA

Post Number: 7088
Registered: Dec-03
FryGuy, I can build quite a few things, and maybe you can too, but that doesn't mean that some kid half way around the world with no knowledge of electronics is going to be able to SAFELY do the same thing, because he foolishly listened to your experiments and decided to try it himself without the proper education to base the experiments on.

As long as you keep giving unsound advice, I'll keep flaming you.
That's life.


Just because I personally can build a television set doesn't mean anybody on this board could do it with a little coaching across the internet.
This guy knows nothing about electronics or he wouldn't even have to ask the questions he keeps asking. I don't give advice to people to talk them into doing ghetto rigged jobs that are way over their heads because I won't be responsible for their injuries when then screw up.

you can have that dubious honor.
 

Gold Member
Username: Glasswolf

NorthWest, Michigan USA

Post Number: 7089
Registered: Dec-03
Ahmer, if you're dead set on going through with this, look at the specs of the actual power supplies.
you need to see the current supply peak for the +12VDC rail of the power supply.
a "350 watt" power supply doesn't mean it can power a 350 watt amplifier. that wattage rating is combined between several voltage rails.
the only one that matters in your case is the +12V, and that usually has a lower current rating as devices like the HDD and CDROM don't draw as much current as the CPU does. a CPU using the 5V rail, can draw as much as 70+ watts of power to operate. Most of that is lost to heat.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Ahmer

Hyderabad, Sindh Pakistan

Post Number: 18
Registered: Dec-04
Glasswolf,If you don't appreciate anyone you can't
discourage anyone...

Every mankind in the world can never do everything
but if a person try to get information,Why you are grabing his right?

GlassWolf seems to be proudy here...
 

Bronze Member
Username: Ahmer

Hyderabad, Sindh Pakistan

Post Number: 19
Registered: Dec-04
GlassWolf,As i told you i will not make PowerSupply my self.
I will get a help of a professional electronics technision,But you are saying»
"forget car audio in the house"
To buy a Home Sterio is easy,just a game of money.To do something new in life makes heart more happy...
Upload
 

Silver Member
Username: Lbeckner

Tulsa, Ok Usa

Post Number: 136
Registered: Oct-04
A computer power supply will not work!!! You need a battery and a battery charger. I know because I've done it before. And it will sound terrible. Listen to Glasswolf. He knows what he is talking about.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Ahmer

Hyderabad, Sindh Pakistan

Post Number: 20
Registered: Dec-04
An ATX Computer powersupply can pruduce more than
95% accurate pure DC 12 volts with 20AMPs.If we
have a 1000 watts Amplifier it needs DC 12V with
100A to Power the Amplifier...

1 ATX powersupply = DC 12v , 20A
5 ATX powersupplies = DC 12V , 100 A
 

Silver Member
Username: Lbeckner

Tulsa, Ok Usa

Post Number: 137
Registered: Oct-04
These are switching power supplies. You don't want to hook them together. By the time you buy 5 ATX power supplies you could of bought a battery and a battery charger with less of a chance of catching stuff on fire.
 

Gold Member
Username: Glasswolf

NorthWest, Michigan USA

Post Number: 7109
Registered: Dec-03
Ahmer, my advice comes from experience. I'm an electrical engineer. If you're getting professional help that's a very good idea.
Be sure you isolate every power supply you want to run in parallel otherwise you can end up hurting yourself. That's what I'm trying to avoid.
I don't give advice to people unless I'm pretty sure they aren't going to hurt themselves by following what I suggest.
I'm sure you can understand that. I would feel responsible if you did end up injured, and that would bother me.
Nice photo by the way.
http://www.wickedcases.com/HT/index.html
that's mine at home. (HT, not the listening room.)

It isn't pride, or a desire to bash people that leads to what I've advised you. It's strictly a matter of doing things properly, and doing them safely.
If this is just an experiment, then hey, best of luck, but I have yet to see car audio produce great results in a house, generally speaking. This is one of the reasons even the best sound boards in stores never do a very good job of showing you how car gear will sound once it's in your car.
If you want to do this the right way for long term use, the best way is to use a bench power supply (regulated, switching) with a high current supply.
ATX power supplies just aren't made with the cooling requirements for high current sustained use.
As an example, if you have the opportunity some time, lift a home stereo amplifier (a well made one) and feel how heavy it is.
Most of the weight you feel is the power supply of the amplifier, and a good stereo 250 watt amplifier can weigh 200 pounds easily. (that's 91kg) I could go on for pages about how a good power supply is designed, but I don't think it'd help at this point to do so. I'll simply say that for the best results, you'll want a power supply that's designed for sustained high current output, and computer power supplies just aren't.
I do however understand that you're in the middle east though, and that getting parts or brands we take for granted in the US may not be so easy for you either. I've lived in other countries, and know how it can be.
 

Silver Member
Username: Fryguy

Nova Scotia Canada

Post Number: 483
Registered: Jun-04
Very true glasswolf on your points.

Note that I have stated many times that it's NOT for everyone to do the mod, but just that it's a cheaper (poor mans mod) alternative for a high current switcher. Its certainly more safe then a battery and charger setup (in the right hands anyway). It's ONLY intended for testing and custom (for fun) mod work in the hands of someone with some electrical experience.

Its certainly not an pro audiofile setup by far either and I won't ever say that it can compare with anything other then standard car audio gear.

It would be a good test project for yourself to try out as a proof of concept/testing. (I got 6 PSU's wired together for my testing here.)


Usual Problems:
Also note as for every mod It's not without its problems, mostly with ground-loop feed back from external audio sources like some PC sound cards etc. A good common ground or isolator can eliminate that problem all together.

The main problem is non standard PSU's that don't follow the ATX spec, this is generally the cheep models (but not always the case).

Current load balancing of the output can be a problem if the voltages of each PSU is really different (more then +/- 0.5 volts between each PSU and you may notice problems at peak load) then one PSU may go into over-current protection and they all shut down.

I like your idea for extra safety by isolating the PSU's with diodes, that's a good idea for additional protection. I never bothered with the diodes in my circuit for a few reasons. Mainly I found it a bit over kill, as the output stage has over current protection already and the primary stage of the switcher has its own fuse on-board if anything seriously went wrong.

If paranoid you could fuse the output to the amp and place a huge zener(s) to clamp if the voltage exceeds say 15 volts then that will pop the fuse before damage happens.

With everything mentioned here In the future I plan to make a complete guide with step by step instructions, pros/cons, safety precautions and other concerns and FAQ. I got to get my web site going first now that I'm running my own business. (The whole nature of my site is changing from my old personal site to a business site, what a pain to make a site over with a content management system)

(constructive criticism is fine with me, thats how good ideas get to be great ideas.)
 

Gold Member
Username: Glasswolf

NorthWest, Michigan USA

Post Number: 7131
Registered: Dec-03
short answer is I'd use a setup like the ATX solution as a bench testing supply perhaps, since it wouldn't be run for long periods at higher volumes, but I don't think I'd use that sort of solution in my home with my stereo system for general playback use. For subs, it's just easier to pick up a cheap plate amplifier these days that runs off of 120VAC and mounts right into the enclosure.
Thenagain, I have cats, too.. and if I had opened power supplies scattered around the floor, they'd get into those in no time and I'd have singed kitties all over the floor.
 

Silver Member
Username: Lbeckner

Tulsa, Ok Usa

Post Number: 140
Registered: Oct-04
do you know how to turn on an ATX power supply w/o a motherboard? There is a wire on the plug that attaches to the MB and you need to short it to ground or positive for one pulse. I don't remember exactly which wire. The wire color may vary with different manufacturers, but I do recall that the wire was smaller than the rest of the wires in the bundle. Still not a good idea though.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Ahmer

Hyderabad, Sindh Pakistan

Post Number: 22
Registered: Dec-04
Glasswolf and FryGuy,Thanks for such a detailed answer...
you always do a great job...

What is a bench power supply ?

Glasswolf,I will join a Body building club(GYM) to get ready,if i going to buy a home sterio 250 watts amplifier...(91kg).
by the way how your Cats reacts when you turn on your sound system ?
 

Bronze Member
Username: Ahmer

Hyderabad, Sindh Pakistan

Post Number: 23
Registered: Dec-04
FryGuy, All new ATX computers casings looks fancy...I think COBRA casings have good power supplies...If we use all ATX powersupplies of same brand,model to get rid of OVER-CURRENT PROTECTION problem...
 

Gold Member
Username: Glasswolf

NorthWest, Michigan USA

Post Number: 7142
Registered: Dec-03
short pins 13 and 14 to turn on an ATX supply.
here's a diagram:
Upload

by a bench supply I mean one you'd use on a work bench for trouble shooting equipment and such.. like an electronics work bench. one where you'd have a scope, meters, etc for fixing stuff.

the cats like the stereo when it's turned down.. they tend to run off when it's turned up.
they don't like loud noises unless it's caused by them knocking stuff over.
yeah home class A amps weigh a ton.. between the power supplies and the heat sink casings.. big, and heavy. Worth it though, in my humble opinion, if you have speakers that demand a responsive amp. In my case I use electrostatics, and they are very demanding on an amplifier due to their reactive load characteristics, but most people probably get by just fine with the amps built into a typical AV receiver.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Ahmer

Hyderabad, Sindh Pakistan

Post Number: 24
Registered: Dec-04
Glasswolf,you told me about ready made effiecient powersupplies,Where they oftenly used?how much cost?

Does a professional electronic technision easyly make DC 12v,100A powersupply?(not an ATX)just a
poweradapter.
 

Silver Member
Username: Fryguy

Nova Scotia Canada

Post Number: 490
Registered: Jun-04
AHMER KHAN, using PSUs the same size isn't the issue, its with the calabrated output voltage that controls the current load share between them. (power = volts X amps). So simply allowing plenty of overhead if your going to run at full volume is a very good idea.

A bench switcher at that current can cost lots.
 

Gold Member
Username: Glasswolf

NorthWest, Michigan USA

Post Number: 7161
Registered: Dec-03
(power = volts X amps) this is true, but also remember to factor in efficiency. you lose a lot to heat and general design with a computer power supply, so it's not a lossless transfer. same deal with car amps of course.

Ahmer look at eBay. There's been an Orion PS100 power supply for sale there for quite a while nobody is bidding on. It's the type used to power sound demo boards in store fronts, or to bench test equipment in for repair, just like we're talking about here.
That Orion PS100 will give you an idea of what they are anyway.
 

Silver Member
Username: Fryguy

Nova Scotia Canada

Post Number: 497
Registered: Jun-04
Very true glasswolf, you don't want to forget about efficiencys involved. Thats just a basic formula for power showing the relationship between the voltage and current. Thats why a good amp and power supply can reduce wasted power.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Ahmer

Hyderabad, Sindh Pakistan

Post Number: 26
Registered: Dec-04
FryGuy, You told to peoples many times that a 1000 watts Amp need a 80A powersupply by your estimate...what about this ,while an AMP fuse rating is something else...eg:70A , 90A ...?

What effect produce on an AMPLIFIER if the powersupply current flow level is more or less than its fuse rating ?
 

Silver Member
Username: Fryguy

Nova Scotia Canada

Post Number: 504
Registered: Jun-04
If the power supply can provide more power then you have extra head-room and the power suply will run cooler at full volume.

If its underpowered (provides less current the required) as the amp gets turned up the power suply will go into over-curent protection mode and it will shut down (usualy cycles on/off like its skiping). If you reduce the volume it will kick back on and stay on.

The best idea is to plan for the rating of the amp and have extra to play with. More so if you plan to run at full volume for any amount of time.
 

Gold Member
Username: Glasswolf

NorthWest, Michigan USA

Post Number: 7219
Registered: Dec-03
remember that the fuse rating will really only limit the RMS power rating of the amplifier.
fuses are rated to blow at a certain percentage of overcurrent, for a certain amount of time.
example, a 100A AGU fuse will take 100A all day long.
it'll take 110A for about 4 hours
120A for about 15 minutes
140A for about 4 minutes
150A for about 30 seconds
and so on.. the amount of over current determines how fast the fuse blows, so peak power ratings can easily exceed the fuse rating since they only last for a moment.
 

Silver Member
Username: Fryguy

Nova Scotia Canada

Post Number: 508
Registered: Jun-04
If he goes by the fuse rating for the PSU he should be fine.

They generally go 15-20% higher on the fuse rating then actual draw. They can de-rate for temperature if the fuse is internal or near heat, the size will be even more then 20% over. Internal capacitors in the AMP and PSU will help with the short peaks just fine.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Ahmer

Hyderabad, Sindh Pakistan

Post Number: 27
Registered: Dec-04
Fryguy,So AC 220v to DC 12v Powersupply currenr flow ampere rating should be according to the fuse rating...eg:-(Fuse=100A,Powersupply = 100A)
Some of the Amplifiers has more than one fuse,than we just take the some of those external fuses...eg: (40A + 40A = 80A)...

FryGuy,you already used PowerAmp at home with an ATX powersupply,What is the result as compared with bettery chargers,Efficiant Powersupplies...?

 

Bronze Member
Username: Ahmer

Hyderabad, Sindh Pakistan

Post Number: 28
Registered: Dec-04
Glasswolf,One of my friend told me to use Computers speakers for Computer...I know that Computers speakers with integrated Amplifier gives best quality sound,I have seen many computers speakers they are no more than a 200 Max
power home sterio Amplifier with 2channel 50 watts RMS speakers...I don't know how they rated them as 1200 Watts(5.1) ? Also they just have a single 6" Subwoofer + 4" small speakers...

What is the best size of a Subwoofer to produce a great bass punch...?
 

Silver Member
Username: Fryguy

Nova Scotia Canada

Post Number: 513
Registered: Jun-04
Computer speakers are rated in that stupid PMPO rating that's not actual power at all.

The answer to this issue lies in how they measure the output power of the device. Usually if you look at these huge numbers, you will see the letters "PMPO" underneath. PMPO stands for "Peak Music Output Power" or "Peak Momentary Power Output". Notice the word peak. The vendor of the product calculates PMPO based on the maximum power output of the device under perfect conditions and 100% efficiency. These conditions are impossible to obtain, and no device can sustain the PMPO power for any significant length of time without being ruined. The PMPO power relies on the fact that amplifiers can provide short bursts of very high power. Over time, these short bursts when averaged with the lower output powers, gives the real value.
EX: I have a 200 watt RMS amp that when PMPO is calculated the PMPO rating is over 1600 watts PMPO.

Vendors use PMPO power to hide underpowered power supplies and amplifiers. When you see something with a PMPO measurement on it, turn it around and look at the specifications. Often, the input power from the AC mains is 5 or more times LESS than that of the PMPO power. You also may see a more accurate measurement, called RMS (Root Means Square) power and DC IN power. These types of measurements average output over time, creating a much more reasonable reading. Don't be fooled by cheap products which appear to put out big power.

NOTE: Any power supply and AMP can produce short bursts of high power but that's not the sustained power that it can do. That's why the fuse rating is less then the peak power; they go by the actual power with the fuse rating and then 15-20% more for head room. Some power supplies have the peak power rating for different durations that it can do without damage or it shutting down. Power inverters are another example of this; they have a peak power and a max sustained power rating.

It gets real complicated fast when talking in terms of power with any electrical device especially with audio because of frequency, and load characteristics like inductive reactance, capacitive reactance, etc.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Ahmer

Hyderabad, Sindh Pakistan

Post Number: 29
Registered: Dec-04
Thanks FryGuy...

i read a post and i am little disapoint...
https://www.ecoustics.com/electronics/forum/car-audio/117216.html

Powersupply was not an issue here...
I asked too many times how to choose or buy a quality AMP...I was looking to get a 2 channel 5OO Watts RMS 1000 watts peakpower...want to attach 2 12" SUBs + a pair of 3 way speakers...ok...
let me know after buying an amp what (RMS,Ohms) SUBs + speekers would be enough...


thanks in advance...
 

Silver Member
Username: Fryguy

Nova Scotia Canada

Post Number: 521
Registered: Jun-04
I got carried away, I was explaining how hard it can be to get the actual power values form some amps. Most of the time comparing systems it's much like apples and oranges in comparison. It can be very hard to know what you're actually getting, if you're unaware of the ratings and the meanings of them. It can easily get confusing.

The choice of amp will depend on your speakers. IMO, I would pick your speakers first then pick the amp to power them. Then you can match the amp to the speakers you require to get the quality and SPL your application requires.

Do you have any brand/model of speakers that have you heard and that you like in mind?
 

Bronze Member
Username: Ahmer

Hyderabad, Sindh Pakistan

Post Number: 30
Registered: Dec-04
FryGuy, thanks again...atleast you are here...

I am not much aware of the funtionality of Car sterio powerAmp,also never seen PowerAMPs ports deeply..
where i have to attach SUB-woofers + speekers etc..

In general,first we choose an AMPlifier than speekers.... subwoofers + speekers can be easily
purchase if we know the specifications of an amplifier.... the very first part is choosing a quality amplifier...

In car audio amplifier the Midrange/TONE is limited...am i right... BASS,Harmonic bass,treble will be more... i would like to make a sound system for home porpuse so instead of Bass boost + treble TONE should be at a decent level...
i always like More bass...

I heard some of the speakers but i am not sure what they were....

Can you post here a close/zoom picture of any Poweramp which shows its ports and describe them..I just want to see where to attach what....?
 

Silver Member
Username: Fryguy

Nova Scotia Canada

Post Number: 526
Registered: Jun-04
There are some basics that are always the same, like the power hook up.

They are clearly marked, usually.

* BAT for the positive 12 volts.
* REM for the positive 12 volts (low current) to turn the amp on remotely.
* GNG or the chassis ground this is the negative connection to the battery or power supply.

The wiring of your speakers depends on the speakers themselves and the AMP. Then you need to know and choose the setup or configuration that you need want (mono or stereo wired subs, etc). Then it's a matter of getting the power you need to them speakers in that setup.

(That's why I choose the speakers first and then decide the setup I want (mono or stereo wired subs, etc). Then I will look for a quality amp to match my power and channel needs for the speakers [EX: Mono or Stereo, series or parallel wiring of voice coils, number of speakers can affect the choice of amp needed]. But it's much like the old "What came first the chicken or the egg?" scenario)

The connection to the speakers should be clearly marked on any amp for the, left -, left +, right -, right +, and what channel they belong to (If it's a multiple channel amp) either A or B etc. That's the basics that I can think of, if that's what you were asking for.

For a video of a typical install go to:
http://www.crutchfieldadvisor.com/S-sC9vUmUyyqe/learningcenter/car/amplifiers_mo vie.html?format=wmv
 

Bronze Member
Username: Ahmer

Hyderabad, Sindh Pakistan

Post Number: 31
Registered: Dec-04
Fryguy,In short I don't want any wrong way to go.
buying Speakers/Subs in the begginng will irritate me to choose an Amp,Because i will get
a used Amp my self.It can be more accurate to buy an amp first due to the limited Brands Model AMPs
available here...So i avoid Subs/speekers at the moment...
Wiring the speakers in series/parallel is the second stage after getting a complete audio hardware...
I am just telling you some things about what i want to do...

2 channel Sterio PowerAMP:5OO Watts RMS 1000 Peak power.(a quality amp,easy to attach with PC)

want to attach 2 12" Subs + 1 speakers pair.

After buying an Amp You can tell me about
the specifications for SUBS/speakers thier power handling ?RMS,Impedence,voice coil to get the desire output...
If i am not getting the idia which you have so please tell me what type of Subwoofers,speekers i require in the bigging when i go to a PowerAMP journey...
You can realise that you are making it for your self...
 

Bronze Member
Username: Ahmer

Hyderabad, Sindh Pakistan

Post Number: 32
Registered: Dec-04
I found a 1000 watts RMS and 1000 watts peakpower Amp.
Legacy LA960 2 Channel 1000W Amp
How it is ?

I heard a term MOSFET with many AMPs
what does it means ?
 

Silver Member
Username: Fryguy

Nova Scotia Canada

Post Number: 530
Registered: Jun-04
The term MOSFET is to do with the technology of the electronics inside.

MOSFET (Metal Oxide Semiconductor Field Effect Transistor), they are basically a special transistor that requires very little current to turn it on. When they are turned on they have much less power loss the normal transistor due to their low internal resistance.

They are generally a lot more power efficient then normal transistors because of those features. This means more power in a smaller package in the terms of an amp design.
 

Silver Member
Username: Fryguy

Nova Scotia Canada

Post Number: 531
Registered: Jun-04
AHMER KHAN, I see your problem now. I didn't understand that you had a limited number of models and brands to select from. You have any brands/models in mind that you're interested in?
(I'm not sure what brands/models you have available to you, now that i see where you live at.)
 

Bronze Member
Username: Ahmer

Hyderabad, Sindh Pakistan

Post Number: 33
Registered: Dec-04
It's cool FryGuy,PowerAmp of any brand may be available here,but as i know that here shopkeepers are not properly selling AMPs in a
reasonable price.Must be Text or duty include when we import AMPs...So any good brand AMP like
PowerAccoustik or Rockford Fosgate can cost double than in your country...
Fryguy,I am not much relate with car audio,suddenly i make a decission my self to do something like that.I am not sure which brands/models are available here but many of then will be available.I saw last time when i was at a car sterio show room such brands that are not listed anywhere on Internet.I think they must be made in China...

First you please get my main porpuse for choosing
an Amp...2 channel sterio PowerAmp.

1)Amp must be deliver 500 Watts RMS 1000 peak.
2)Produce a quality Bassboost,treble and high level TONE/Loudness for a room or a hall.
3)I am intrested to attach 2 12" subs and 1 pair of full range speakers with 2 channel Sterio Amp,i am not sure how they perform toghter?
need some guidence here...
MTX or Kicker are popular...

You can suggest any brand which is better in quality and having reasonable price,make sure it will be a master peace for a PC.
You can tell me 5 defferent good brands..i will search them...
Thanks in advance
 

Bronze Member
Username: Ahmer

Hyderabad, Sindh Pakistan

Post Number: 34
Registered: Dec-04
It's cool FryGuy,PowerAmp of any brand may be available here,but as i know that here shopkeepers are not properly selling AMPs in a
reasonable price.Must be TAX or duty include when we import AMPs...So any good brand AMP like
PowerAccoustik or Rockford Fosgate can cost double than in your country...
Fryguy,I am not much relate with car audio,suddenly i make a decission my self to do something like that.I am not sure which brands/models are available here but many of then will be available.I saw last time when i was at a car sterio show room such brands that are not listed anywhere on Internet.I think they must be made in China...

First you please get my main porpuse for choosing
an Amp...2 channel sterio PowerAmp.

1)Amp must be deliver 500 Watts RMS 1000 peak.
2)Produce a quality Bassboost,treble and high level TONE/Loudness for a room or a hall.
3)I am intrested to attach 2 12" subs and 1 pair of full range speakers with 2 channel Sterio Amp,i am not sure how they perform toghter?
need some guidence here...
MTX or Kicker are popular...

You can suggest any brand which is better in quality and having reasonable price,make sure it will be a master peace for a PC.
You can tell me 5 defferent good brands..i will search them...
Thanks in advance
 

Gold Member
Username: Glasswolf

NorthWest, Michigan USA

Post Number: 7336
Registered: Dec-03
Ahmer go to www.bcae1.com
the menu on the right side has a section on MOSFET and Bi-polat transistors.
search for those two page links and read them.
They'll explain the differences and how everything works.
 

Silver Member
Username: Fryguy

Nova Scotia Canada

Post Number: 535
Registered: Jun-04
Nice site glasswolf, I bookmarked that site for future reference material.
 

Gold Member
Username: Glasswolf

NorthWest, Michigan USA

Post Number: 7350
Registered: Dec-03
it's like a bible for car audio reference data.
very handy stuff.
The site's author is a good guy, too.
 

chi town guy
Unregistered guest
glasswolf i need your help again
 

Bronze Member
Username: Ahmer

Hyderabad, Sindh Pakistan

Post Number: 35
Registered: Dec-04
its ok MOSFET, it was a dumb question.
i was little awared with transistors.

Recommend an amp ? or some good brands.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Ahmer

Hyderabad, Sindh Pakistan

Post Number: 38
Registered: Dec-04
The main function of Poweramp is to boostup a sound signal/wave efficiently.i am talking about
as computers point of view so i don't need any
"HeadUnit",pre-amp to provide a sound signal for PowerAmp,as well as no need to play an audio cassete.
How i will be able to get a volume,bass,treble control direct from the hardware?
i think adding an equlizer will solve this problem.

Take a look at the previous post.
or just tell me that you are not responsible to suggest a brand or amp.

thanx in advance
 

Silver Member
Username: Fryguy

Nova Scotia Canada

Post Number: 536
Registered: Jun-04
Glasswolf, I can only wish to have a web site as good as that some day, It's a lot of work to run a web site.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Ahmer

Hyderabad, Sindh Pakistan

Post Number: 40
Registered: Dec-04
FryGuy,may be you forget the subject of this topic
 

Bronze Member
Username: Ahmer

Hyderabad, Sindh Pakistan

Post Number: 41
Registered: Dec-04
FryGuy,answer my previous posts.

One thing i want to ask,Is there any website which shows all PowerAmps same Brands and models on the same page.i mean to say that if i am looking for 2 channel MTX the page shows its all models#/prices and its short specifications, Watts RMS.

i will take take the print out which will help me
to buy an amp here.

thanks.
 

Silver Member
Username: Fryguy

Nova Scotia Canada

Post Number: 542
Registered: Jun-04
I visit the site for that brand to get the specs, etc. Anyone else know of a single site that compares brands?
 

Bronze Member
Username: Ahmer

Hyderabad, Sindh Pakistan

Post Number: 42
Registered: Dec-04
FryGuy,i don't know why you are avoiding to answer some of my previous posts.so here it is>
Mosltly when we listen car audio in car "Dry signal" or "Tone" level set to very low.This may be due to sitting in car but as a result,PowerAmp gets an extra power toproducelower-frequencies,
Low pass filter order Low freqs output for Subs.
The main function of Poweramp is to boostup a sound signal/wave efficiently.i am talking about
as computers point of view so i don't need any
"HeadUnit",pre-amp to provide a sound signal for PowerAmp,as well as no need to play an audio cassete.
Mosltly when we listen car audio in car "Dry signal" or "Tone"
How i will be able to get a volume,bass,treble control direct from the hardware?
i think adding an equlizer will solve this problem.

In short,
Does Poweramp is responsible to produce loudness/Drysignal/Tone, or it just according to sound signal comes from the pre-amp as an input signal for poweramp?

have you got that link.A single site for compares brands?
thanx in advance
 

Bronze Member
Username: Ahmer

Hyderabad, Sindh Pakistan

Post Number: 43
Registered: Dec-04
FryGuy,
Mosltly when we listen car audio in car "Dry signal" or "Tone" level set to very low.This may be due to sitting in car but as a result,PowerAmp gets an extra power toproducelower-frequencies,
Low pass filter order Low freqs output for Subs.
The main function of Poweramp is to boostup a sound signal/wave efficiently.i am talking about
as computers point of view so i don't need any
"HeadUnit",pre-amp to provide a sound signal for PowerAmp,as well as no need to play an audio cassete.
Mosltly when we listen car audio in car "Dry signal" or "Tone"
How i will be able to get a volume,bass,treble control direct from the hardware?
i think adding an equlizer will solve this problem.

In short,
Does Poweramp is responsible to produce loudness/Drysignal/Tone, or it just according to sound signal comes from the pre-amp as an input signal for poweramp?

have you got that link.A single site for compares brands?
thanx in advance
 

Bronze Member
Username: Ahmer

Hyderabad, Sindh Pakistan

Post Number: 44
Registered: Dec-04
FryGuy,
Mosltly when we listen car audio in car "Dry signal" or "Tone" level set to very low.This may be due to sitting in car but as a result,PowerAmp gets an extra power toproduce low-frequencies,
Low pass filter order Low freqs output for Subs.
The main function of Poweramp is to boostup a sound signal/wave efficiently.i am talking about
as computers point of view so i don't need any
"HeadUnit",pre-amp to provide a sound signal for PowerAmp,as well as no need to play an audio cassete.

How i will be able to get a volume,bass,treble control direct from the hardware?
i think adding an equlizer will solve this problem.

In short,
Does a Poweramp is responsible to produce loudness/Drysignal/Tone, or it just according to sound signal comes from the pre-amp as an input signal for poweramp?

have you got that link.A single site for compares brands?
thanx in advance
 

Silver Member
Username: Fryguy

Nova Scotia Canada

Post Number: 543
Registered: Jun-04
I think I finally understand the question, sorry about that misunderstanding.

If your just using it on a computer you could use an EQ with the amp also. I mostly just play music and the software player (winamp www.winamp.com) has some nice software EQ plug-ins (If you require more then the one included) to get the sound (tone,bass etc) that I need. So depending on its main use and your requirements a simple software EQ can do the trick with no additional hardware costs.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Ahmer

Hyderabad, Sindh Pakistan

Post Number: 45
Registered: Dec-04
okz FryGuy,I am also using Winamp5.8 with a Dsp effect Enhancer.

PowerAMp always invisible somewhere in cars.So i will
also do the same thing when i'll use it with PC.
Hardware EQ is very essential,because every time we don't use software to get a sound control.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Ahmer

Hyderabad, Sindh Pakistan

Post Number: 46
Registered: Dec-04
FryGuy,to be friendly now!
Glasswolf told me about to buy a MONO Amp to power
Sub,while i am thinking to buy a 500 watts RMS 2 channel sterio Amp.I am not aware with "Bridge Mode".

Which type of Amp will play 2 12" Subs + 2 full range speakers together?


 

Bronze Member
Username: Ahmer

Hyderabad, Sindh Pakistan

Post Number: 47
Registered: Dec-04
FryGuy,to be friendly now!
Glasswolf told me about to buy a MONO Amp to power
Sub,while i am thinking to buy a 500 watts RMS 2 channel sterio Amp.I am not aware with "Bridge Mode".

Which type of Amp will play 2 12" Subs + 2 full range speakers together?


 

Bronze Member
Username: Ahmer

Hyderabad, Sindh Pakistan

Post Number: 53
Registered: Dec-04
FryGuy,To be honest i am thankful to you but i am
very disapoint here...
If you read my Posts since the first one to the last post,there must be one thing common that i
want to run 2 12"Subs + 2 normal speakers.ok

why you never told me that it is impossible to run two seperate things(subs , speakers)toghter due to thier different frequencies, by using a single 2channel sterio amp.

I was unaware with crossover setting in AMP so i thought some times that why many peoples asking here to instal more than one PowerAmp.

It means that I have require one amp to power Subs and one for Speakers or may be 5/6 channel amp can do that.
to buy 2 Amps will cost too much and they will put my budget out.
By the way, how you have make your car sterio for you Computer?
What should i do now ? 5 channel amp ? ok

please take a look here.
https://www.ecoustics.com/electronics/forum/car-audio/118991.html
 

Silver Member
Username: Fryguy

Nova Scotia Canada

Post Number: 545
Registered: Jun-04
With the EQ question, you answered it yourself. With your needs you require a hardware EQ, a software one just won't do.




With your subs and full range speakers you can do it several ways, a tri-mode amp with passive crossovers or a 4 channel amp with 2 channels bridged mono could do the trick also.





NOTE: You can use a passive crossover to separate the frequencies to the different drivers ,if you watch the power and impedance of the drivers used.





I'm sorry that your disappointed, but frankly I never understood what you were asking for your specific setup.
 

Silver Member
Username: Fryguy

Nova Scotia Canada

Post Number: 546
Registered: Jun-04
With the EQ question, you answered it yourself. With your needs you require a hardware EQ, a software one just won't do.

With your subs and full range speakers you can do it several ways, a tri-mode amp with passive crossovers or a 4 channel amp with 2 channels bridged mono could do the trick also.

NOTE: You can use a passive crossover to separate the frequencies to the different drivers ,if you watch the power and impedance of the drivers used.

I'm sorry that your disappointed, but frankly I never understood what you were asking for your specific setup.
 

Silver Member
Username: Lbeckner

Tulsa, Ok Usa

Post Number: 218
Registered: Oct-04
creative labs makes a 6 channel sound card that can use 3 seperate eq and crossovers. one for each left and right.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Ahmer

Hyderabad, Sindh Pakistan

Post Number: 54
Registered: Dec-04
Lucas beckner,what will be the advantage if i buy that sound card.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Ahmer

Hyderabad, Sindh Pakistan

Post Number: 55
Registered: Dec-04
Fryguy,As you know that i am not very much associated with car audio so i will not put my hand into it.You told me serveral ways to run
a setup like this.It will be pleassure for me if
you give advice to me, What should i do next ?
1)To buy a 4 channel Amp?
2)Use a passive crossover ?is this additional hardware?
I understood that it should be a 4 channel Amp i don't care if it suck little more cost,but should sound better and louder.
Now tell me
what specifications for 4 channel amp = 2channel 600 watts RMS ?
leave any subs and speakers specifications at this movement.I must get them according to amp.

In my openion it would not better to attach additional harware except an Amp,EQ due to powersupplies issues for home purposes
 

Bronze Member
Username: Ahmer

Hyderabad, Sindh Pakistan

Post Number: 57
Registered: Dec-04
first read me previos post.
FryGuy,If you suggest a 4 channel amp .
can i easyly attach 2 left and 2 right channel RCA
Cables to a single streio male jack into soundcard or i need a speacial sound card.

 

Silver Member
Username: Fryguy

Nova Scotia Canada

Post Number: 550
Registered: Jun-04
Yes because on most you can run them as separate inputs (left and right amp one, left and right amp two - It's basically two amps in one case) or as a single stereo pair (single left and right) selected with a switch.
 

Silver Member
Username: Fryguy

Nova Scotia Canada

Post Number: 551
Registered: Jun-04
A passive crossover is more hardware so the easy way to go would be with the 4 channel amp to save the headache. The you can use the active filters on the amp for the sub with no need for a passive crossover.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Ahmer

Hyderabad, Sindh Pakistan

Post Number: 58
Registered: Dec-04
Thanks FryGuy,It means that 4 channel Amp does not need any other special type of sound card.Amp can
easyly attach by using(2 left ,2 right) RCA cables into 1 male jack.ok.
As you told me 4 channel amp is a kind of dual amp,so does my sound card provide a require sound wave to Amp.Because it will annoy me if all 4 channels would not receive Input to boost up and power all Speakers and Subs.

ok. I understood that there is a built in crossover Low and high pass filters available in most of the 4 channel amp so i can adjust different frequencies for Subs,speakers,midrange,tweeters.

Generally speaking,I heared about 4 channel amps that they do not perform a good role and do not produce as much loudness and low-frequncies as the other 1 or 2 channel Amps do.
Do you think it is true or not,but remember i am
not intrested to make a surround sound system.The main goal is to power a pair of 12"Subs and a pair of Approx 6" full range speakers.

does a 4 channel 600 watts RMS amp power some good (2subs and 2speakers)well.
 

Silver Member
Username: Fryguy

Nova Scotia Canada

Post Number: 557
Registered: Jun-04
No you won't need any special sound card and it will work fine with a standard patch cable that you have. With a 4 channel amp it can feed bass to the subs without a passive crossover. It can pass highs also or full range of sound to your full-range speakers. So with your tweeters you will still need a passive crossover (if they are discreet drivers without a crossover built in, EX not a 3 way speaker).

The power/loudness will depend on the size of amp you get. It being a 4 channel amp won't make it unsuitable for driving a sub, you can fun 2 channels bridged mono for more power into a single channel for the subs.

If your powering 6" full range speakers on the same 4 channel amp you'll have to watch the power ratings. To get the power for the subs run 2 channels mono and run the other channels in stereo, that should work good for you.

Whats the wattage or the speakers you plan to use?
Once you give me an idea of the impedances and wattage of the speakers I can help you select the amp size that you'll need.
 

Unregistered guest
SO...in my truck i have 4 gauge power that used to have a 60 amp fuse in it but blew after me and my friend REALLY cranked on the amp, so im guessing that i will be fine with 12V at 60 Amps, which if i am correct would only be about 3 psu's, but you guys said that it would be more efficient to run more than that so that it dont overheat, so i think i will find 4 old psu's, and you guys said to hook them up in parallel right? also, because the wires are like only 16 gauge wire coming out of the psu's, would it be bad if i just connected all of the 12 volt wires coming out of each psu. ie: yellow from mobo, conected to yellow from hdd, connected to yellow from cd-rom..for each psu?cuz then in the end i think i would have close to at least 8 gauge or 4 gauge running to my amp.also...is there any way to combine all the 120ac powerplugs into one?and do i really have to open each one up and get rid of every single wire except for the 12 volt wire(s), and the negative(s) also dont i need a 5 volt for my remote turn on? would i need to run just one 5 volt for the remote or would i wanna connect all the 5 volts from each psu for the remote? Lots of q's for my teacher at the tech, but maybe u guys can help too.
 

Silver Member
Username: Fryguy

Nova Scotia Canada

Post Number: 558
Registered: Jun-04
Its fine to just parallel the PSU's like you mention. You don't need to open it up to remove the extra wires, but it sure makes it look clean after you remove all the small wires and replace them with a single large gauge wire.

The 5 volt wire in the document is for the fan mod not for the remote. Just use the +12 for the remote. Most just use a short jumper wire from the BAT (+12)on the amp to the REM (remote) to hold the amp on. Then they just turn on the PSU to turn on/off the amp.

The simple way for you to turn on/off the PSU's without doing any hard wiring would be to use a power bar with a switch on it.
 

Unregistered guest
I can help. I've been running car amps in the home since I was 15.. Bunch of fun on the cheap but don't use wussy PC PSU's unless you have a bunch of big caps and such. Your best bet on the cheap is to get a normal $40 MegaLoMart battery.. Battery charger.. Build "meltdown" case for battery and put baking soda in the bottom.. just in case of an acid spill.. Set the battery charger on trickle charge to keep it up to snuff. When using for long periods of time with heavy use.. switch to 10A charge. When finished, switch back to trickle. I used a Punch 60 DSM for my home theater.. Front, rear, center and sub for over two years when stationed at Hickam AFB. Gimme a shout if you want more tips for the cheap...or just ways to hack or have fun with big stereo stuffs in or out of the car. robotunderground@yahoo.com
 

Bronze Member
Username: Ahmer

Hyderabad, Sindh Pakistan

Post Number: 62
Registered: Dec-04
FryGuy,Once i got an amp,I must ask you about Subs and speakers power.
You can think that i want to buy an amp like
MTX Thunder684.May be this brand not available here so i will go through another one.
You can tell me a Sub and speakers setup for this amp.I am much concentrate on low-frequencies because some of the hard pucnh can be obtained by normal speakers.Am i right ? so there is another question.
What effect will produce if i put a single 18" SUB
with some 3 way speakers.
As it is already clear that i cant afford any thing like crossover so do i need some thing else
Tweeters,i don't like them as much.



 

Silver Member
Username: Fryguy

Nova Scotia Canada

Post Number: 561
Registered: Jun-04
If you want tight punch a larger speaker will disappoint you. Smaller speakers produce tighter punch but less SPL for the same power so its a trade off. Also remember that large speakers the sound becomes directional once the wave length of the sound equals the diameter of the cone. In most cases the large driver is used for very low sub woofer frequencies (20-100Hz)so this isn't a problem. If its going to be the woofer in a 2/3 way system where its expected to produce a wider range of sound you will pickup on the directional properties of that large woofer.

A passive crossover isn't expensive, its just why buy one when its not needed. also you can get better more flexible (adjustable) filtering with the active filtering built in the amp.

I'm not sure what else you were asking? I can't decide for you what components you need for your system. I and others can tell you the tech behind it and offer opinions to help you select your components, thats all.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Ahmer

Hyderabad, Sindh Pakistan

Post Number: 63
Registered: Dec-04
ok.
i just make it simple.

If it is a 4 channel MTX Thunder684 amp.
specifications.
* Pure N-Channel VFET Design
* Intelligent Surface Mount Technology (ISMT)
* Front and Rear Defeatable 40-200Hz High- Or Low-Pass Crossovers
* ISO Feet Mounting System
* Full-Range Preamp Outputs
* 2 or 4 Channel Input Selector
* ThunderEQ Variable Bass Boost
* Certified Performance Certificate
* Black Powder Coated Heatsink With Chrome Trim
* RMS Power: 85W x 4 @ 14.4V
* Bridged RMS Power: 340W x 2 @ 14.4V
* THD at Rated RMS Power: <1%
* Speaker Level Inputs: No
* Preamp Outputs: Yes
* Built-In Crossovers: HP/LP
* Bass Boost: 0-18 dB
* Frequency Response: 20-20,000 Hz
* Channel Separation: n/a
* Signal to Noise Ratio: >100 dB
* Fuse Rating: 3 x 25 amps

if i want to attach Two 12 inch's SUBs OR single 18" Sub + a pair of 3 way speakers.
what should be the perfect specifications for them
according to this amp,while in any best possible mode.
by the way does 3 way speekers has built-in tweeters?i must avoid any crossover.
 

Silver Member
Username: Fryguy

Nova Scotia Canada

Post Number: 562
Registered: Jun-04
You set the input selector to 2 inputs for standard stereo (left-right) input.

Bridge 2 channels mono. (see the amp for proper wiring and selection on the switch)

Set the low pass and adjust the frequency to taste (about 60-80 Hz gives good low bass sound)

If getting a sub be sure the 2 12 are 4 ohm and parallel to get 2 ohm to load the amp and get the maximum power from the amp. If its a single sub get a DVC (dual voice coil) 4 ohm sub so you can parallel to get 2 ohm load and get the maximum power from the amp.

The 3 way speakers are called 3 way because the include a woofer/midrange/tweeter drivers in one unit. They have a passive crossover built in to split the frequencies in the audio so they go to the proper driver.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Ahmer

Hyderabad, Sindh Pakistan

Post Number: 64
Registered: Dec-04
FryGuy,why you did not told me the perfect Watts RMS rattings subs,3 way speekers.
just tell me for both the conditions.
1)single/pair of Subs
2)3 way speekers.
 

Silver Member
Username: Fryguy

Nova Scotia Canada

Post Number: 563
Registered: Jun-04
Thats easy read the specs above for the amp. With the 3 way speakers you want ~85-100 watts RMS speakers or ~200 watt peak. With the single DVC sub at 2 ohms 350-400 watts RMS or about 180 watts per 4 ohm voice coil. Thats with the amp bridged mono and assuming that the amp can do mono with 2 ohm load. If the amp cant then half the wattage rating and only use a single 4 ohm sub.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Ahmer

Hyderabad, Sindh Pakistan

Post Number: 65
Registered: Dec-04
ok.Is this a good setup ?

Lets come to powersupply for the moment.IF in the beggining i use a car bettery,just for a short time.
it will perform well or not.

The AC 220 to DC 12 watt powersupply we use in the home sterios or other home purposes electronic equpments can be made by winding through a copper wire.
Can't we use this way for a car AMP.
 

Silver Member
Username: Fryguy

Nova Scotia Canada

Post Number: 565
Registered: Jun-04
Yes it will work. It will preform fine until the battery gets low from the charger not being able to keep up. A charger don't provide very clean or efficient power, it's not made for that.

Plus there is other issues with the use of lead-acid batteries. They are not made for repeated discharge/charge cycles before damage happens to the battery. Also the weight, smell, leaks causing damage possibility, explosive gases thats produced during charging that make it a bad long term choice.

A power supply that converts the power to usable power is a safer, lighter, more efficient and effective way of powering the amp. A switching power supply has 80+% efficiency rating. Where the old linear regulators are around 60% efficient and weigh a lot more because of the transformer.

Quote: "The AC 220 to DC 12 watt powersupply we use in the home sterios or other home purposes electronic equpments can be made by winding through a copper wire."

Do you mean a transformer? If you use a ATX switcher you can select either 110/120 or 220/240 volts so you can use it anywhere in the world. The have good regulation and provide very clean low ripple DC power.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Ahmer

Hyderabad, Sindh Pakistan

Post Number: 66
Registered: Dec-04
FryGuy,Yes I am talking about TRANSFORMERS which oftenly used in real home sterio Amplifiers.I don't how they made them but Transformers must be AC 220 to DC 12 V convertors.I think a copper wire used to make them.They are also consider as Adapters.

If you please post some snaps or something like
a tutorial on "how to combine 2 ATX in parallel"
It will be a pleasure for me.
I know that you are busy but you told me that you will maka a tutor.i think you ever do that more quickly,exactly and accurately than others.

 

Silver Member
Username: Fryguy

Nova Scotia Canada

Post Number: 566
Registered: Jun-04
Using an ATX computer power supply to make a scalable multipurpose power supply.doc https://www.ecoustics.com/electronics/forum/home-audio/Using_an_ATX_computer_power_supply_to_ make_a_scalable_multipurpose_power_supply-75898.doc(51.2 k)


https://www.ecoustics.com/electronics/forum/home-audio/12235.html
 

Bronze Member
Username: Ahmer

Hyderabad, Sindh Pakistan

Post Number: 67
Registered: Dec-04
FryGuy,In simple i Can't do that without any professional's help.If you make a complete tutorial
with snaps/video so may be i can do it myself.

If we talk about video we need a powerfull 3Dcard
than when we talk about sound,there is no suggestion to improve it.
as connect a single amplifier with sound card the sound signal provide an input to an amp,but if there are more than one amplifiers attach with a single(normal)sound card then the sound wave divides and provide less amount of input to all amplifiers.
In my case i want 4 channel which is just like dual amps,What other efficient and expensive soundcards do ? which type of soundcard is better?
 

Silver Member
Username: Fryguy

Nova Scotia Canada

Post Number: 567
Registered: Jun-04
I'm currently heavily working on a business web site to replace my old web site (same domain name). When I get the site setup and running I will work on finishing my half started documentation to make it complete.

For PC sound cards there are high end models that is used in recording studios and radio stations. They offer higher S/N ratios (in the 100+db range), more connections/inputs, better mixer, break-out box etc. The can also offer advanced digital signal processing to do many amazing effects like flanger, reverb, and can simulate environments without taxing the PC's CPU (It's done with an on board processor on the sound card). External sound cards that connect by firewire or USB offer isolation from noise that can be introduced by the PC's internal parts and provides better isolated grounds to help battle ground loop feedback with external amp setups.

With connecting to multiple amps a signal problem by loading the sound card isn't much of an issue. This depends on the input impedance (like resistance)of the amps that are connected. This is usually very high >1k ohm at least. Most sound cards can push sound into a 16-32 ohm load like headphones. So at 1k on each amp you can see that thats a lot of amps that you can connect before thats an issue.

More info is outlined at http://www.pcguide.com/buy/des/compSound-c.html

High end sound cards compared at http://compreviews.about.com/gi/dynamic/offsite.htm?site=http://www.lostcircuits .com/video/sound%5Fcompare2/
 

Bronze Member
Username: Ahmer

Hyderabad, Sindh Pakistan

Post Number: 68
Registered: Dec-04
Does it means that a quality sound card is usefull when working with orchestra or connecting echo sound with Computer.

How to calculate the PMPO rattings.
4 channel amp.
RMS Power: 85W x 4 ohm.
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