Like

Amps on the box?

 

Anonymous
 
Is it a big no-no to mount your amps on your sub enclosure? For me, trunk space is VERY tight and mounting them vertically on the sides of the box would help a lot, but I don't want to damage them from vibration.

Will mounting the amps ON the enclosure subject them to levels of vibration enough to actually do them harm? It would be 2 amps, one for the sub in the trunk and one for the front/rear channels in the cabin.

In my case, I'm only running a single 300W sub and I don't do hip-hop rap pounding, so what do you think?
 

Gold Member
Username: Glasswolf

NorthWest, Michigan USA

Post Number: 6212
Registered: Dec-03
other than looking kinda ghetto, and making things much easier to steal, I don't think it'd cause any real problems if the amp is decent.
You really should consider a different location though like perhaps under a car seat in front, or something.
 

Anonymous
 
Well, considering these components are going into a trunk that has a whopping 12.5" height, 38" width and 28" depth TOTAL and has no space under or behind the seats in this 2-seater, space is at a premium. I know Americans are used to their rust-bucket boats with tons of space, but I prefer power and performance over having room to stash your Budweiser and pork rinds in...

If someone with a bit more technically savvy knowledge and less attitude has an answer, they are welcome to post.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Rzarector

Coquitlam, Bc Canada

Post Number: 16
Registered: Dec-04
lol
 

Anonymous
 
If the trunk is that small, consider making the whole back wall a false wall, attaching the sub enclosure to the front of the wall and attaching your amps to either side or back side of the false wall, depending on the dimensions of your units. It will look a bit more pleasing to the eye for the snobs who have nothing better to say. It will also help better protect your amps while still allowing room for cooling airflow. You can secure the whole assembly to the back wall of your trunk for a small bit of added security.

Consider using rubber grommets when you attach the amps as they may help absorb a bit of the vibration shock. Hope that gives you some practical advise. Best of luck...
 

phx
Unregistered guest
screw you, foreigner
 

Gold Member
Username: Jonathan_f

GA USA

Post Number: 2708
Registered: May-04
"I know Americans are used to their rust-bucket boats with tons of space, but I prefer power and performance over having room to stash your Budweiser and pork rinds in..."

Well, I hit high 10s in my 67 Mustang fastback a couple years ago, so that covered power and performance. Oh yeah, I also had a non-ghetto looking audio system in it too, almost forgot to mention that, silly me.
 

Anonymous
 
A mustang...how quaint...how antique...is a Model T your backup? LOL So, another person who can't come up with a technically informative answer but can blather opinions that have no impact on the actual design problem presented. How very American.

Much thanks to the previous poster. A false wall will work very well. Glad to see there are SOME non-rednecks on this forum.
 

Silver Member
Username: Jeremyc

Kunsan AfbSouth Korea

Post Number: 247
Registered: Jun-04
Hay anonymous the two people you are calling rednecks are two of the smartest guys in here. So take your 1978 ford pinto with its plastic wood grain trim and shove it. Wait, thats right your little plastic tonka toy wouldn't survive in a crash with a rust bucket ford pinto.

To be honest I would love to have an original model T. Hell its worth four times what your little plastic tonka toy is worth. Thats even with the back up lawn motor engine that you think puts out soooo much power. You know whats even funnier about this. I drive an accord and I am still calling you out.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Mattellermets

Danville, IL US

Post Number: 50
Registered: Sep-04
hehe... be careful. it might be one of the cars with the rubber band wound up 32.428% tighter than stock. I mean theres about a 50/50 chance of it flying apart every time it hits the full band-release position on the one of the extra guages... (yep, the guage that you thought was a second steering wheel) but at least the tires chirp if you pop the fried clutch, huh
 

Gold Member
Username: Glasswolf

NorthWest, Michigan USA

Post Number: 6228
Registered: Dec-03
maybe it's because you're too much of a dumbass to give us enough information to work with, such as the actual type of car you're working on.
I answered your initial question by the way, in my first post. You probably won't damage your Pyle amplifier by screwing it to your plywood box.

As for American cars, I drive a car that can do the quarter mile in 11 seconds, with over 405Kw of power. And guess what? I still have plenty of room for my audio system.

Grow up, you tosser.
 

Gold Member
Username: Glasswolf

NorthWest, Michigan USA

Post Number: 6229
Registered: Dec-03
Jeremy, he doesn't have pinto.. that'd be a USDM car.. heh he must be driving a yugo or a pugeot.
With his sour attitude, I'm guessing he's probably French.

 

Anonymous
 
Pot calls kettle black...and none of your rust buckets could complete a Grand Prix circuit against my car, so tell yourself whatever you wish to feel better.

Oh, what do we call a EE that we pass on hiring at Lockheed? We call them car audio installers...roflmao...
 

Gold Member
Username: Glasswolf

NorthWest, Michigan USA

Post Number: 6255
Registered: Dec-03
it's getting deep in here now. I think I'll pass on the reast of this thread while I find my hip-waders for the crap "anonymous" here is shoveling.

I doubt you've ever driven a grand prix, or any other track event.
I on the other hand actually have taken my car to a real track to get it timed, and I've also driven SCCA ITC and ITB class. Again. Grow up.
 

Anonymous
 
Your absense will be welcomed. I hear your local Piggly Wiggly is running a special on Macaroni and Cheese, better go stock up.

Denial must help soothe your shredded ego, car installer. And running laps at your local fair and redneck rally classes aren't squat compared to what we run. Keep dreamin, junior...your negativity and bad attitude already prove you'd never make it as either a real EE or a real driver.

I hear some kid just pulled in to get another papercone special installed in his 83 Honda, better get going...
 

Gold Member
Username: Glasswolf

NorthWest, Michigan USA

Post Number: 6308
Registered: Dec-03
haha
ahh thanks monkeyboy. I needed a good laugh.
you've provided it with your Simpsons-like mentality and postings.
I enjoyed it.

Whatr you don't know about me could fill the grand canyon. have fun. call me when ya get out of high school.
 

Anonymous
 
So much for staying away. But I guess with a postcount that averages over 17 posts a day every day of the year, I can understand how you have no other life but to troll for popularity here. Shuttle off now, wire jockey, your momma has your Tuna Helper ready if you have your room clean.
 

Gold Member
Username: Jonathan_f

GA USA

Post Number: 2709
Registered: May-04
Honestly, we have better questions to worry about than some dumbass worrying about screwing an amp into a box. Sure, if you want your install to look like it was done at Best Buy, or whatever cheap chain store you may have in your country, then go ahead. It seems someone with so much mechanical savvy would be smart enough to figure out an amp installation, but of course I guess that's a little judgemental. Honestly, I doubt anyone with too little know-how to install an amp to a box figure out a false wall in a trunk could even double clutch or heel toe, much less actually work on a car. Remember, we wouldn't be racing your car, we're racing you. Anytime you want it, just bring it down and I'll be more than happy to hand your a$$ to you.
 

TopJimmyJumps
Unregistered guest
Hi. The anon guy seems like a jerk to me, but the original question interests me too.

Can an amp safely handle the vibration a box might get? My setup has a carpeted board hiding everything deeper in the trunk 'cept the amps and fuse block (stuff I need to see or manipulate), but the panel is close to the woof box (box is way back by the cabin divider, facing front) and I didn't think about bass thump vibration.

Can amps safely handle pounding in a small airspace like that, being close to a woof? All the pissing match doesn't interest me, just the techy stuff...
 

Gold Member
Username: Glasswolf

NorthWest, Michigan USA

Post Number: 6315
Registered: Dec-03
Jimmy, the main concern is really how well the enclosure is built.
If it's made of reinforced and cross-braced 3/4" MDF, the enclosure itself shouldn't flex or move much at all even at high output.
Ideally, a well made box won't flex at all, so energy transfer is maximized.
This being the case, mounting the amp to the box isn't a concern, though the screws may be if they penetrate the enclosure and break the seal of the box, allowing air leakage.

Cheaper pressboard and plywood boxes like the ones Qlogic etc offer at Best Buy wouldn't do as well though, and will resonate much more with high output subs, which they're not recommended for even by the companies who make the boxes.

if the gear is mounted close to the subs, sound deaden the area around everything (ie the trunk) well, and try to isolate the am0plifiers by using rubber stand-offs at the mounting points etc.
This will also minimize resonance and prolong the life of the amplifiers.
Even solid state devices will be adversely affected by enough long term vibrating, just due to physical stress and material fatigue.

Mister Lockheed apparently never made it past Physics 111 or he wouldn't have had any need to ask his questions, but hey. I love to make money from bozos like him who kill their gear or get it heisted and come crying to shops like the one where I worked.
His type are the same ones who keep me employed and well-paid as an IT consultant, too.

The ones who talk smack, then run crying for help at the drop of a hat when they screw the pooch every other day at work.
I've seen, and fired more than my share of his kind.
 

TopJimmyJumps
Unregistered guest
Okay. I made mine myself out of 3/4" MDF. I built it to the specs that came with the woof (JL Audio 12w3v2) for a ported box.

The box sits behind the board, close to the cabin wall. They are not attached, but very close.

If amps are affected by vibration, why do I see so many pictures of "pro" installs with amps in the trunk within inches of the woofs? Seems kinda dumb to me from what you said. If you don't have room up front, guess you gotta do what you gotta do?
 

New member
Username: Maniac

Post Number: 10
Registered: Dec-04
Anonymous Shut the F*ck up with all these stupid threads everybody knows is you posting all these dumb@ss question about What Amp? What Sub? All these other f*cking cheap brands you keep posting and starting new names each time. your just a f*cking Dumb@ss foreign dreamer with no money to spend. You just wish you had money like us americans. Go back to your little warehouse job Paying 4.00 Dollars an hour and ask for a raise im pretty sure you'll get slaped up side that st*pid head of yours. Instead of wasting your f*cking time on the computer posting these st*pid sh*t go do something better with your time you F*cking loser. No wonder you spend your time in this forum cause you dont have a life.Your talking about Glasswolf Wasting his time here he dosent have to But he does it cause he likes helping people out Unlike you st*pid foreigner Posting all these st*pid questions all day taking up space. Save up your little foreign money and buy you a legacy, pyramid, amps just like the amps you mentions in all your other threads those are sorry @ss amps just like you. You Know what was a dead give a way that i have seen before in your other posts You always start a new name And Most of the times you Say Cheers in the end. That How you can tell it's a foreign loser. Hey Glasswolf You sure he has a car To me it just sounds like another dreamer. He probably just has a bike I dont think he could even afford Ayugo. Dont worry Glasswolff I got your Back.
 

Gold Member
Username: Glasswolf

NorthWest, Michigan USA

Post Number: 6348
Registered: Dec-03
really the trunk is about the safest place and the most spacious to put that much gear. being that close to the subs shouldn't ever really have a big effect on anything, but as I mentioned, you can isolate the amps and signal processors when you mount them, and that helps to prevent any damage from resonation.
I mean if ya think about it, the gear gets rattled pretty well any time ya drive the car, really. Just from road vibration and such through the suspension. I wouldn't be overly concerned about damage though to be honest. I haven't seen many amps show up damaged from being mounted "near" the subs.
I see more damage from people mounting amps on the sub box, with exposed wiring, and causing shorts when something hits the terminals.

 

Silver Member
Username: Jeremyc

Kunsan AfbSouth Korea

Post Number: 253
Registered: Jun-04
Did I hear lockheed? Thats pretty funny considering I an a avionics guy on F16s. Oh wait I am a car stereo installer too. Funny how someone who knows how to trouble shoot a flcs mux bus down to a broken tie point, or trouble shoot a fcr 003 A and B bus malfunction down to a psp, can step out to the garage on the weekend and do one hell of an install. That explains why I have to do inspection after inspection every time we get a new jet. Someone has to make sure you didn't forget to put the engine in.

Glass your right he has to be french.
« Previous Thread | Next Thread »

Facebook

Shop Related Deals

Directory

Main Forums

Today's Posts

Forum Help

Follow Us