Hey Eric, I'd personally find a sub first and then find a box, sealed/ported that meet the speaker's requirement. Your 2nd link says the final ohm is 3. That's not a good number to work with. Most amps are either 4ohms bridged or 2ohms. 3ohms will overwork the 4ohms and not maximize 2ohms rated amps.
Hay eric if you want to go with a JL sub, then use a JL amp. They put out the same watts at 2, 3, or 4 ohms. The 500/1 will push A 12W7 very well. As for SQ subs I like JL and Boston Acoustic. I have personally delt with both and been very pleased with the SQ.
Ten inch subs do have some advantages over larger ones. However, if you want earth sharttering bass, you can't beat 15" - 18" subs. There's loud and then there's pounding loud. I personally like 18" subs. If you have the space and money, try larger size. Of course you'll need a custom box built to meet the sub's requirements. I'm using MA Audio 18" sub in a sealed box.
For transient response, sound quality, reduced distortion, and control of the subwoofer, SQ in my book goes to either the aperiodic membrane or a well designed Transmission line enclosure. Aperiodic works well in a car if you can accomodate the requirements.
After that, probably a quarter-wave transmission line cabinet, but those are huge, and very difficult to build.
that is, if all you're after is accuracy and SQ, and SPL events aren't at all in your game, because an AP box is about -3dB down from a sealed box, so you lose a bit in overall loudness, but gain a tremendous advantage in driver control, particularly at higher frequencies, over about 50Hz.