I have been looking at subs for a while now and narrowed it down to jl w6v2, RE 3x, Adire brahma, or the IDMAX. I found a good deal on IDMAX so I jumped on it. The problem is that the 10's that I ordered are on back order. They have 12's in stock and will give me those for the same price. Should I do it? I am getting the 4 ohm version of whichever one I get. I will be feeding them ~ 1000 watts each. I am looking for about 75%SQ and 25%SPL I was going with 10's because I thought that 10's were generally more accurate. However my favorite subs I have ever owned were old school 12w6s. So what do you guys think? I have a ford ranger ex cab and will be doing a custom box. Space isnt really that big of an issue I have a slight preferance for a smaller box but not much. Thanks, Jason
Yeah I'd be interested on hear the pros and cons of 10" vs. 12" IDmax's. I've alwyas been a 10" guy, but was wondering how much "bottom end" I'd sacrifice going with the 10's. I've got 5 1/4" Q's and am worried how 12's are going to perform with that size components. I don't need to tune to 20 Hz like Sean, but would like a bit of low end response.
Yeah I have 5 1/4" components too. That was my logic in ordering the 10"s there seems to be a gap between the 5 1/4"s and 12"s with my 12w6s I had 6x9s and 6.5's now I have 4 5 1/4"s I would assume that the 10's would hit higher frequencies and sound a bit more balanced, where as the 12's would hit lower and maybe leave a gap.
The 10" is actually very good down low, better than most 10" subs are. The 10s are tighter on higher midbass region(approaching 200 hz), but you'll crossover well below that point, probably about 100 hz or so, and at that point the 12" has fantastic SQ. Really at 100 hz the 10" and 12" perform pretty similarly besides the fact that the 12s are louder. Of course, the 12" drops lower as well. If you experience any gap in sound, it's because the 5 1/4 components can't keep up SPL wise, it's not really the fault of the sub. That being said, the 10 would blend better as far as SPL goes, because the 10 isn't as loud as the 12" and less likely to overpower the components, but as far as midbass transition, either would work well. IMO the ID max 12" is better than the 12W6 for midbass transition, if you're wondering. If you think your current system sounds layered(like it has a gap), it's more of the fault of the components and where they need to crossover at. Above 100 hz, the sound won't blend well at all because the sub won't transition well. Bass becomes more directional above 100 hz, so it makes you quite aware that the subs are in a trunk (or behind you in some way), also in that region, the components and sub will be sharing more information, such as a bass guitar etc. and you'll hear part from the comps, part from the sub. The fact that the sub is producing a more "intelligent" region means the SQ won't be as good as it would with components producing it because they're behind you. That region will also be overproduced since it comes from a sub, a sub will produce it louder than a pair of midbasses would. Either one would work well, the 10s would blend better more than likely simply because of SPL. Honestly I think even 2 ID Max 10s will overpower a set of 5.25" components anyway, assuming you planned to get 2. You may want to get a preamp or some form of sub level control(unless your head unit already has one). Your best option is to get a 6.5" component set or add a midbass to your current system. You can buy the 6.5" midbasses from the same speaker line of whatever kind of speakers you have, but that depends on if you can fit them, and just use it in place of your current 5.25" mid. Or, you could add custom 8" midbasses in the doors if you're willing to make it work. You should also do as much as possible to get the best midbass out of those components as possible, through assuring no leaks and dynamatting as much as you can. This will result in the best SQ you can squeek out of them.
Would a set of kappa perfect 6.5's in the front while keeping the kappa 5 1/4s in the rear do the trick? by the way I have a JL audio 300/4 amp. So I could bridge it to the 6.5s in the front for 150 watts. I have another 4 channel amp that does 70 x 2 when bridged I could use for the rear 5 1/4's. After what you said above I am fiending for dynaudio 360s up front and IDMAX 12's! However I think that is a bit out of my price range. I am really confused on how to mount the dynaudios though. Could I just cut the factory hole and squeeze the 8 in or does it need an enclosure?
It is designed for free air use, so a door would be best for it usually, you'd have to make sure to sound deaden as good as possible for best results. I'd put all the Perfects on the 300/4, it's underrated and usually does close to 100x4. If you do the Dyns, I'd recommend a sub that's a little more authoritative down low like an RE X.X.X., simply b/c the Dynaudio 360 has a specific midbass driver and you don't have to crossover as high, midbass transition isn't as important.