Box bracing

 

Silver Member
Username: Lord_huggington

Ontario Canada

Post Number: 187
Registered: Oct-10
So I've drawn up this box for 12 10's in 15 cubes/3600W RMS, it's 2" MDF everywhere with a 4" baffle. It needs bracing, 2 45's on the bottom corners (one is a port opening), and one 3 x 3 brace in the middle.

The brace in the middle is 16.5 x 35.5 x 3 x 3, and the hole it isn't obstructing is 10.5 x 29.5 x 3 x 3. Will this act as a port that's connected to the other side of the box? Will it obstruct a lot of air without 45's, maybe round corners? I calculated the tunings if they were to act like ports - around 56.5 and 70.5 Hz depending on if the air-space is calculated as 7.5 or all 15 cubes. Just wondering.

How gradual should a 45 corner be, is going too low not usefull? I was thinking of doing the port corner so that on a 45 degree angle there is still the width of the port at the center line/45 corner (triangle calc says 3.71 x 3.71/port width is 5.25), I did something wrong? What about the other corner though?

Do steel rods work better?
 

Silver Member
Username: Lord_huggington

Ontario Canada

Post Number: 188
Registered: Oct-10
The subs mounting depth is 6" so the height of the opening of the middle brace is in-line with the end of the magnets.
 

Silver Member
Username: Lord_huggington

Ontario Canada

Post Number: 191
Registered: Oct-10
This is what I mean. The blue is bracing and the red is the middle brace.

Upload

This is the best I can come up with in a minute lol. The red is the port and the blue is the middle brace, missing 9 subs.

Upload
 

Gold Member
Username: Deadrabit

Marionville, MO

Post Number: 2604
Registered: Jun-07
i would not bother with that. just get some threaded rod. 1/4 inch threaded rod in the middle and places around inside the box.
counter sink you subs if u can! and make sure to flair out the baffle on the inside and out were the subs set.


sounds like it will be a pretty solid box. what kind of subs r u using?
 

Silver Member
Username: Lord_huggington

Ontario Canada

Post Number: 194
Registered: Oct-10
Fi X's for $660, it's too cheap to pass up.

Is 1/4" rod kinda small? There's enough space for two 1" rods from top to bottom (leaves 1" each side from rod to inside magnet cut-out), and two rods from side to side on the farther sides. Hopefully I can counter-sink the nuts so they don't stick out onto the wheel-wells, and the wood covers them all with a nut-shape cut out so they don't move.

Subs are counter-sunk 1".

4 1" rods should do it then?
 

Silver Member
Username: Lord_huggington

Ontario Canada

Post Number: 195
Registered: Oct-10
Flare the baffle? What do you mean?
 

Silver Member
Username: Lord_huggington

Ontario Canada

Post Number: 197
Registered: Oct-10
You mean flare the port?

Fi recommends .9 to 1.5 for the X's and with all the bracing I think it'll come out to 1.2 cubes each not 1.25.

Is it worth it to make a corner brace for the top two corners? It'd be 2.875" x 2.875" x 35.5".
 

Silver Member
Username: Makinblak

Monroe/Monticello, La/Ar

Post Number: 293
Registered: Oct-10
How you gonna tighten a threaded rod with stationary nuts on both ends?
 

Platinum Member
Username: Insearchofbass

Post Number: 16352
Registered: Jun-04
hmm
 

Silver Member
Username: Lord_huggington

Ontario Canada

Post Number: 199
Registered: Oct-10
They go to the outside of the first 1" and the outer inch the nut is sunk into. I'd have to put the outsides on last.
 

Silver Member
Username: Makinblak

Monroe/Monticello, La/Ar

Post Number: 297
Registered: Oct-10
hmmm
 

Silver Member
Username: Lord_huggington

Ontario Canada

Post Number: 200
Registered: Oct-10
Does that sound right?
 

Platinum Member
Username: Insearchofbass

Post Number: 16369
Registered: Jun-04
hmmmm
 

Silver Member
Username: Makinblak

Monroe/Monticello, La/Ar

Post Number: 298
Registered: Oct-10
hmmmmm
 

Platinum Member
Username: Insearchofbass

Post Number: 16371
Registered: Jun-04
lol
 

Silver Member
Username: Makinblak

Monroe/Monticello, La/Ar

Post Number: 299
Registered: Oct-10
haha. You could just drill out the outer 1" to fit your socket and put locktite on the nut. fill in the gap with expanding foam then cover with carpet, vinyl, or if you're a big baller: leather and suede. Incorporate plexiglass in it somehow. And put my name on it.
 

Gold Member
Username: Deadrabit

Marionville, MO

Post Number: 2608
Registered: Jun-07
i mean flair the baffle.. i am sure u already plan on fairing the port.

and the problem with those Xs that r one sale... they only have 5 left
 

Silver Member
Username: Lord_huggington

Ontario Canada

Post Number: 201
Registered: Oct-10
Why would I flare the baffle? just the port...

They only have 5 X's left, and they're not selling them anymore?
 

Platinum Member
Username: Rovin

1 15 = 153 DBs ...Trinidad & T...

Post Number: 16829
Registered: Jul-05
where did u see only 5 left ? ...
 

Platinum Member
Username: Insearchofbass

Post Number: 16381
Registered: Jun-04
yeah if so i better get one if im getting it
 

Gold Member
Username: Deadrabit

Marionville, MO

Post Number: 2610
Registered: Jun-07
it was on the fi forum... u r talking about the older Xs that are on sale right>>?

i was talking about them. but hey u could try to buy them..
i am sure they will have the new fi Xs and lots of them.. but not at sale price.. just wait i read last week

iv seen pretty big gains in flaring the baffle if u have low power like you do.. with my set up i gained 1.4 dbs with flaring the baffle and smoothing the inside of the box..

this is the closest pic i could find...
http://oak.cats.ohiou.edu/~schneidw/audio/images/north_creek_baffles062vsml.jpg

see how the inside is flared?

let me look for pix of what i did on my wall... i might have pix of a few boxes too... ill have to look
 

Silver Member
Username: Lord_huggington

Ontario Canada

Post Number: 202
Registered: Oct-10
Yeah the ones on sale. Are the new ones any different?

Sorry, I still don't understand. Which part is flared? I see rounded corners on the outer edge of the sub cut-out, and wood over larger wood.
 

Silver Member
Username: Lord_huggington

Ontario Canada

Post Number: 203
Registered: Oct-10
I dunno how I didn't think of this but I've noticed that a thick baffle creates more space. Do I calculate it like diameter/2*itself*pi*baffle thickness below mounting depth/1728 ? That means a 3" baffle creates 1.3992 cubes or .1166 per cut-out. The sub displacement is .1 each so now I don't have to account for 1.2 cubes inside the sealed portion, and it adds .1992 cubes to the space so 15-.1992 = 14.8008 cubes + 1.2 sub disp's = 15.208 NET. I'll shoot for 14.8 cubes. I'm sure those little things could and will throw off the tune by a few Hz.

The port corner brace and the other corner brace are three-sided to half of half of the port width, if it were squared off (5.25/4). I don't know how to calculate a 5-sided "triangle".

I'm looking for six 4-way rod connectors. It can feng shuieieilly fit 11 rods.

Like so, the magnets stick out 3" below the baffle though.

Upload
 

Silver Member
Username: Lord_huggington

Ontario Canada

Post Number: 204
Registered: Oct-10
Okay so the brace wasn't hard to figure out.

1.3125 x 2.625 x 35.5 / 1728
+
2.625 x 2.625 x 35.5 / 1728 - (1.3125 x 1.3125 x 35.5 / 2 / 1728)
= .194645899544270833333333333333 cubic feet.

B!tches.
 

Silver Member
Username: Lord_huggington

Ontario Canada

Post Number: 205
Registered: Oct-10
Changing to 8 rods, 6 on the baffle and 2 on the sides.

Baffle either 3.75 or 3.875 or 4" depending on the surround height.

What size rod is good? There's 1.25" between the subs.
 

Silver Member
Username: Makinblak

Monroe/Monticello, La/Ar

Post Number: 303
Registered: Oct-10
build log
 

Gold Member
Username: Deadrabit

Marionville, MO

Post Number: 2611
Registered: Jun-07
threaded rod... doesn't have to be to thick... but it helps if u can screw them in from each side. really tight
 

Platinum Member
Username: Rovin

1 15 = 153 DBs ...Trinidad & T...

Post Number: 16841
Registered: Jul-05
that illustration looks nice but r u still able to get the number of subs u wanted to buy ? ....
 

Silver Member
Username: Lord_huggington

Ontario Canada

Post Number: 206
Registered: Oct-10
I was originally planning on $100/sub but I wouldn't pass up a 40% sale for the same thing.

I'm going to buy two 10's for my Alero, and test them before I buy 10 more. I'm still looking for a cheap hatch, and I don't know what batt, alt, amp (3600W RMS @ ? ohm probably Sundown/AQ) or speakers (Hertz/CDT/Morel/JBL) to use. 4 6.5" that gets down to 60-80 Hz with two tweeters would be nice. What can 12 DVC 4 and SVC 4 subs wire into?

I'll be fiber-glassing the fronts, black suede everywhere, blue neons hidden on the roof/pointed at the subs so when you look in the window they are all lit up. Below the baffle is all hidden etc.

Someone find me a newish GTI 2-door hatch for cheap.

1200 subs
800 sub amp
500 fronts (4 6.5/2 1)
400 alt
300 deck
300 box, probably way more
300 wires/deadening/other
300 component amp
200 2 batteries (3 total)

$4300 + shipping, probably $4800 total.

Then there's sweet rims, car insurance, and school.

I'm ordering two DCON 10's soon!
 

Silver Member
Username: Lord_huggington

Ontario Canada

Post Number: 207
Registered: Oct-10
8 .5" rods, they only take up .0184 cubes.

Do you flare both the inside and the outside of the baffle?

Otherwise the baffle hole diameters will be flared between the third & fourth layer, 2" each side. There's a 2" flared slot port, so for aesthetics 2"?

Like:
1 11
2 9.25
3 9.25
4 13.25

Anyone know the surround height on the DCON 10?
 

Silver Member
Username: Lord_huggington

Ontario Canada

Post Number: 208
Registered: Oct-10
I'm not flaring the port anymore, just so I can later stick on an even longer one for a 30 Hz tune.
 

Silver Member
Username: Makinblak

Monroe/Monticello, La/Ar

Post Number: 312
Registered: Oct-10
build log with pics and vids
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