Mapleshade Clearview Golden Helix Speaker Cable

 

Silver Member
Username: Mordecai

Texas

Post Number: 407
Registered: Jan-09
Anyone have any experience with these cables? I'm using anticables with my NAD C372 and Acoustic Vienna Hayden Grands right now.
 

Platinum Member
Username: Jan_b_vigne

Dallas, TX

Post Number: 15867
Registered: May-04
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No personal experience with the Mapleshade cables. I am using a similar diy cable and I'm quite pleased with the results. Considering the anticable is nothing more than a few feet of very common magnet wire sold at a good mark up, the additional steps Mapleshade claims to have made to their cables would make them a reasonable upgrade from your existing cables assuming you like the basic sound the solid core cables provide.


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Silver Member
Username: Mordecai

Texas

Post Number: 408
Registered: Jan-09
I made my anticables. I didn't buy them from Spelts. What are the DIY cables you made Jan?
 

Platinum Member
Username: Jan_b_vigne

Dallas, TX

Post Number: 15870
Registered: May-04
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Simple, one strand per conductor leg, small gauge magnet wire encased in paper tape (so there's no conventional dielectric) with each leg being held apart from the other by about 6". Very short runs, wired directly (no spades, just bare wire ends) from the amp to the drivers. Good for systems where the impedance of the amp is low and that of the speaker is fairly high and very consistent. I use similar interconnects. Definitely not for every system but they work in my application. I would agree with Mapleshade that thin gauge, solid core works well for music and that minimizing the amount of connector bulk (and terminating in a correct impedance) is ideal as long as a neurotic user isn't going to be pulling at their cables every week.


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Gold Member
Username: Exerciseguy

Fort Hamilton, NY United States

Post Number: 3486
Registered: Oct-04
I have admired virtually everything MAPLESHADE builds from a distance; their engineering philosophy seems to be solid and dovetails nicely my listening goals; further, their prices seem rather reasonable, all things considered.
 

Gold Member
Username: Hawkbilly

Nova Scotia Canada

Post Number: 1225
Registered: Jul-07
I'd love a set of their speaker stands, with the footers, to try with the Lings. But the stands would be worth about double what the Lings sold for new. Just doesn't seem to make much sense..
 

Gold Member
Username: Exerciseguy

Fort Hamilton, NY United States

Post Number: 3487
Registered: Oct-04
There's always the DIY route, sure it won't be the same, but it should be an improvement over most alternatives. I've considered building some speaker plinths for years out of some slabs of 3" thick maple butcher-block & some brass footers.

http://cgi.ebay.com/MICHIGAN-MAPLE-BLOCK-CUTTING-BOARD-BUTCHER-BLOCK-M-/380311220222?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item588c50affe

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=240-720

Upload
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Gold Member
Username: Magfan

USA

Post Number: 2089
Registered: Oct-07
Christopher,
The plinth pictured above is a straightforward project. Note that you do not need 3" thick maple, but 3" LONG pieces cut from some 4/4 or larger, planed to size. You'll need plenty of clamps and the right glue. Mapleshade may use regular white glue or the slightly better yellow version. IF they use a special glue...say an Epoxy or whatever, that may be a difference.
To flatten and make parallel? You'll need a pretty beefy planer than a router for the edges. Finish to taste. Tung oil or perhaps Teak oil. Or even one of the synthetics.
Nothing at all special about it.
A lot of work? you decide.
 

Gold Member
Username: Exerciseguy

Fort Hamilton, NY United States

Post Number: 3488
Registered: Oct-04
Those pre-built butcher-blocks are $50/ea., which seems pretty reasonable given the time & effort to procure the material & do the work yourself.

Note: I'm not saying these are Mapleshade clones, but the combo of HEAVY 3" maple-block & brass footers should make for a very nice combo. If the look of butcher-block isn't your thing (I kind of dig it), a quick sanding & a can of spray paint can fix that lickity-split.
 

Gold Member
Username: Exerciseguy

Fort Hamilton, NY United States

Post Number: 3489
Registered: Oct-04
Sorry if I pulled the OP off course.
 

Gold Member
Username: Exerciseguy

Fort Hamilton, NY United States

Post Number: 3490
Registered: Oct-04
Actually these spikes are the ones I meant to link to: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=240-718
 

Gold Member
Username: Hawkbilly

Nova Scotia Canada

Post Number: 1226
Registered: Jul-07
Thanks CM. Those butcher blocks are a really good deal. i have those exact spikes, but they are only about one tenth of the mass of the smallest mapleshade footer. I expect that would make a significant difference.....but since I haven't tried the real deal I'm speculating. I know a good machine shop, so I was thinking I might get them to make a heavier version, but I never got them to price it. It may not be any cheaper than what mapleshade offers.
 

Gold Member
Username: Magfan

USA

Post Number: 2091
Registered: Oct-07
I suspect custom brass footers will be $$$.

I recently sold some scrap metal. A brass kitchen faucet I replaced.

I got over 1$ per pound as SCRAP. I can only imagine what new brass rod of say.....1" would go for.
 

Platinum Member
Username: Jan_b_vigne

Dallas, TX

Post Number: 15882
Registered: May-04
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Particularly if your brass faucet was simply brass plated.

Q: "What is the value of solid brass per ounce?"


A: "if your asking about scrap brass, then depending on grade $1 to $3 per pound. try www.scrapmetalpricesandauctions.com for more info"


http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_is_the_value_of_solid_brass_per_ounce


How long, ya'think, before the hedge your bets on doomsday broadcasters are doing commercials for buying brass?


Mapleshade's "surefoot" footer is $95 for a set of 3 and the shipping weight is 6 lb. total. That's a decent markup for Pierre but you've got to give him something for coming up with the original idea.

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