Please advise on new speaker/amp installation
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New member Username: Magnus28Petawawa, ON Canada Post Number: 1 Registered: Aug-11 | Hello all.. first time poster.... I have a 2007 Mazda GT Sport (hatchback) I want to keep the factory deck and 6 factory speakers, the sound is great, but lacks bass... I have a pair of Sony Xplod 6x9's at 350 watts a piece. I am going to buy an amp in the 500-1000 watt range, and plan on buying a 10" Sub woofer around 1200 watts. I went to 2 car audio places and the quoted me in the $700-850 range for a cheap sub, 4 channel amp, and the wiring and installation. Looks like i'm going to buy the amp and sub myself, and I plan on mounting the amp to the back of the sub box, and the 2 6x9's on each side. I need advise on what I need to do to wire this all up,what I will need to buy, so my factory deck still will run the 6 factory speakers, and the amp I plan to buy will power the 6x9's and the sub.. thanks!! |
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Bronze Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 95 Registered: May-09 | Here are some suggestions, keep in mind that because of the way Sony measures watts (peak power*) the following equipment will be within your power expectations since they are rated as RMS power: First to interface the stock head unit to the amp: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_18563_Hifonics-Maxxsonics-MX-4.html This is a 5 channel amp which will let you to connect 4 6x9 and a sub: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_34760_Rockford-Fosgate-R600-5.html The sub: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_7252_JL-Audio-10W3v3-2.html If you liked the 350W 6x9 Sonys buy another pair to have four. You will need the sub enclosure and power cables for the amp as well. * Peak Sony watts = RMS watts x 5 |
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New member Username: Magnus28Petawawa, ON Canada Post Number: 2 Registered: Aug-11 | thx for the informative post Joe.. I'm gonna stick with the 2 sony 6x9's.. as I mentioned the factory audio is great.. I just wanted to incorporate 2 xplods to the mix to give me a decent mid range. the 6 factory speakers are plenty. I believe a 4 chan amp will be sufficient to hook a sub and 2 6x9's into my factory deck ??? |
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Bronze Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 96 Registered: May-09 | Well you can use (in bridged mode) this amp as 2 channels 150 watts RMS per channel plus a subwoofer channel. Keeping in mind that the four channel equivalent will cost about $50 more and is 100 watts RMS less powerful. Being class D the subwoofer section it will run cooler and take up less energy from your electrical system. |
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New member Username: Magnus28Petawawa, ON Canada Post Number: 3 Registered: Aug-11 | sorry joe.. could you explain further? I know about rms wattage, crossover, impedance, etc. but not to knowledgeable about bridging amps ,what gage wire to use, and stuff like hi-flow output converters.... are you saying I could use 2 separate 2-channel amps and bridge them? I'm soo confused!! I want the low frequency sounds to go to the sub, the mid range frequencies to the sony xplods, and all the rest can come over my factory speakers.. Do amps have built in crossovers in them? or do I have to buy another separate one? thanks! |
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Bronze Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 97 Registered: May-09 | OK firstly dont worry you will get many other option soon, with the amp I just suggested you can get 3 channels, you just flip a switch to bridge it form five to three channels so VERY simple. It does have crossover so you can get the bass directed at the sub and the rest to the 6x9s so ALSO very simple. You get two channels at150W RMS at 4 ohm enough to destroy your 6x9s and a 300W RMS at 2 ohm for the sub, the sub I suggested is already at 2 ohm so no problems there. What you cant get from it (and from mostly no amplifier) is to cut off the high end so an LPF is needed. |
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New member Username: Magnus28Petawawa, ON Canada Post Number: 4 Registered: Aug-11 | ok.. I think i'm getting there ... one question though, If I bridge the amp so it powers both 6x9's and the sub, and given that the crossover will send the appropriate frequencies to the respective speaker, what will happen to the signals going to the factory speakers? will I still get distortion from those speakers when I crank up my music? That was the problem all along.. nice clean sound coming from the car, but crackles and vibrates when the base is turned anymore than +2 |
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Bronze Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 98 Registered: May-09 | With those stock head units one can never know if distortion comes from the HU itself or the speaker or if the speakers are just loose. You need to either check your installation, try to use some different speakers and if all that fails then your head units distorts (common issue). So if you would like that your stock speakers received less bass one way would be using the 5 channel mode, a crossover and then provide them a bassless signal directly from the amp. Another way would be to place passive crossovers on them and let the bass and mid come from your new setup BUT you have to know that the speakers are the problem not the HU. To keep things simple and neat I always replace a stock HU with something decent before adding other components. Of course if you want to keep the stock look then you have to deal with the issues. |
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New member Username: Magnus28Petawawa, ON Canada Post Number: 5 Registered: Aug-11 | the stock unit looks great, and there are other features from the car that dispaly over the head unit - like total distance till empty (km), ambient temperature outside, L/100 km, etc |
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Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfColumbia, South Carolina Post Number: 14430 Registered: Dec-03 | having read the OP, I'd say forget the sony 6x9s and amp. buy a self-amplified sub, like an infinity basslink or SAS bazooka tube with amplifier built-in, and wire that into your factory system. it will add the low end you now lack, and if you order it online, and do the install yourself, even with the wiring kit (8 gauge) you're looking at under $300 total.  |
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New member Username: Magnus28Petawawa, ON Canada Post Number: 6 Registered: Aug-11 | it's a possibility... still want to do something with the 6x9's, will add a nice mid range sound to the system. thanks for the imput Glass! |
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Silver Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 101 Registered: May-09 | Also using the stock head unit you may want to take a look at this: https://www.ecoustics.com/electronics/forum/car-audio/687375.html |
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Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfColumbia, South Carolina Post Number: 14438 Registered: Dec-03 | actually they really won't.. not with a factory system. |
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New member Username: Magnus28Petawawa, ON Canada Post Number: 7 Registered: Aug-11 | ok.. i've taken the advise, I ditched the 6x9's.... I bought this amp today: http://www.solidsignal.com/pview.asp?mc=06&p=XPA4100&d=Dual-XPA4100-4Channel-600 -Watt-Car-Amplifier-(XPA4100)&c=Car%20Stereo%20Amplifiers&sku=827204103135 and 2 of these 10" subs. http://www.walmart.ca/Automotive/Car-Audio-Sound-Accessories/Automotive-Subwoofe rs/Scosche-10-Sub-450-Max-Watts-150-Watts-RMS-Power can someone tell me what way to wire it? Series? Paralllel? or Series - Parallel ? I don't know really much about what that amp would run stable best at for impendance... And I don't know if the subs would handle being reduced to 1 ohm or whatever.. And also, what would be the best way to run amp? bridge 4 channels into 2, and run each bridged channel to each subwoofer? And bridge sub "A" to sub "B" thx in advance! |
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Silver Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 105 Registered: May-09 | WOW!! that's dirt cheap equipment you've got there, good luck with it. Anyways you want to use the high level inputs, find the speakers nearest to the trunk to take the signal from them, 2 cables from the right speaker 2 from the left. Flip the switch to 2 channel mode and wire the subs for bridged mode so you will (hopefully) get 2 channels at 150W RMS at 4 ohm (those subs are 4 ohm). Also engage the low pass filter by flipping the switch to LPF and set it to about 60 or 70 Hz and bass boost to your likings. You dont have an amp wiring kit so get it, also no sub box |
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New member Username: Magnus28Petawawa, ON Canada Post Number: 8 Registered: Aug-11 | Joe, I ditched the crappy xplods, now i'm getting grief about my crappy bargain basement amp and subs? I'm sure to an enthusiast, it's laughable, but for an average guy trying to get a little more base from a great sounding factory system - I think I did ok, and on budget. I don't understand what you meant about finding the speakers nearest to trunk and take the signal from them???? I was planning on running a LOC to the head unit, and running the subs in 2 channel mode in parallel. But correct me if i'm wrong, but taking dual 4 ohm subs, bridging them together, than wiring them to the amp in bridge mode will take them down to 1 ohm at the amp correct? I do have a sub box, picked up a nice one today - that will fit 2 10"s in there nicely. Saw an amp wiring kit at walmart today for $65, says its good up to 1200 watts, comes with all the stuff you need, but the power, and remote wire are 6 gauge.. is this heavy enough for my setup? Do I have to do the big 3? I'm not going to be messing with my alternator wire no matter what, I can't even see it in my car! Sorry, I know there's alot of questions in here, but I don't want to pay some guy the quoted $250 to do this for me! Thx again! |
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Silver Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 108 Registered: May-09 | Its just there are concerns regarding long term reliability and performance with that sort of equipment, that does not mean that you will do bad with it in any way. Regarding your questions, the amp you purchased accepts directly the output of the speakers as an input so no need for level converters. Again that does not mean that you can't use it if you want. HERE is the important part, your amp can not be bridged into a single channel, it will go from 4 to 2 channel thats it. Bridged it will provide 150W RMS to each sub at 4 ohm. When in bridged mode the amp will not accept loads below 4 ohm if you wire the subs in parallel you will *damage* the amp. connect as follows: SUB1- NC NC SUB1+ SUB2- NC NC SUB2+ NC = no connection So each sub is wired independently to the amp. You need a simple amp wiring kit which includes: 1 long thick red cable with inline fuse, 1 short thick black cable, speaker cables an a blue cable and some assorted stuff to help with the installation, those are much cheaper. You don't have to mess with the alternator at all so no big 3 upgrade is necessary. |
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New member Username: Magnus28Petawawa, ON Canada Post Number: 9 Registered: Aug-11 | again thanks Joe! big roger on the wiring scheme.. so each sub wired independently to each bridged 2 channel, and the subs wired to each other in series? |
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Silver Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 112 Registered: May-09 | No, each bridged channel connects to a single subwoofer BUT the subwoofers should not be connected to each other in any way whatsoever. Watch out!! these things burn easily and rather fast if improperly connected. Also the long red thick cable must be connected straight to the battery but this connection is particularly hazardous, the inline fuse should be placed near the battery and the connection to the battery should be made last when everything is already connected and *checked*. |
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New member Username: Magnus28Petawawa, ON Canada Post Number: 10 Registered: Aug-11 | ok, but from the way you are describing it, each Sub is independently hooked to it's own channel and not to each other in any way, That will mean my subs aren't synchronized, and will sound like 2 different subs instead of 1 sub. I want to wire the subs either parallel, or series - parallel, so they are syncronized.. Wiring in series-parallel will split the difference in ohms at the amp, so it will be running @ 2 ohms instead of 8 if I were to wire the subs series, and 1 if I wired the subs parallel... |
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Silver Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 115 Registered: May-09 | You need to provide a mono signal to the amp to get the same signal in both subwoofers. A mono signal is obtained by mixing left and right channels of the stereo signal and then applying that signal to the amp. Take a look: http://cgi.ebay.com/Variable-Audio-Attenuator-Stereo-Mono-Converter-/12074951289 0?pt=UK_AudioTVElectronics_HomeAudioHiFi_Amplifiers&hash=item1c1d3b58ba When you buy a monoblock amp this circuitry is already integrated in it. This I can tell you for sure, in bridged mode if the total impedance goes below 4 ohm the amplifier will blow, if you cross connect the amplifier channels by making connections between the subwoofers unpredictable results will follow. If you decided to try anyways maybe an extinguisher will come handy right after the test. |
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Bronze Member Username: Magnus28Petawawa, ON Canada Post Number: 11 Registered: Aug-11 | lol! So by bridging channel 1 and 2 and wiring sub "A" to it, then bridging channel 3 and 4 and wiring sub "B" to it, I will duplicate a mono signal for the purpose of having both subs receiving a syncronized signal? |
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Silver Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 117 Registered: May-09 | No, this is a stereo amp, the only way to have it playing the same signal in both channels is giving it the same signal on the left channel and on the right channel inputs, so after wiring the amp as explained before you need to connect as follows. HU -->LOC--> STEREO TO MONO CONVERTER --> AMP-->SUBS The only way to make things simpler for you is if you could exchange this amp for the DUAL XPA6100 amplifier, with that one you could parallel the speakers to 2 ohm and no LOC or stereo to mono converter would be needed. |
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Bronze Member Username: Magnus28Petawawa, ON Canada Post Number: 12 Registered: Aug-11 | walmart doesn't carry the xpa6100 Pretty sure my HU has factory rca out, so no need for a LOC.. Thx Joe! |
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Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfColumbia, South Carolina Post Number: 14444 Registered: Dec-03 | I don't ever recall seeing a factory head unit that has RCA level pre-outs, excluding the Ford GT's McIntosh head unit, and Lamborghini's Alpines of course. |
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