Does a Bandpass box beat harder, and sound better than....


Does a Bandpass box beat harder, and sound better than a standard wooden box with the subs exposed?

Im pretty sure that a bandpass would would give better sound than a wooden box...but im not an expert

You don't want a wooden box period, you want a box that is made from MDF(Medium Density Fiberboard) and depending on what type of bass you want, you'll either want it, ported or sealed, a bandpass(from my knowlege) is designed to attempt to get really low and hard, but still be very crisp and accurate, but from what I have read, they hit certain frequencies really well, but don't have great all around, my advice, get a Vented box, or a Sealed box, vented for maximum SPL(sound pressure level), sealed for best SQ(sound quality). both made from MDF. Hope this helps

Make sure it's 3/4 MDF or 5/8 HDF.

A true bandpass enclosure has one good charachteristic, one bad charachteristic, and one that could go eiter way.

The good is that the bandpass design is much louder than either a sealed or ported box.

The bad is that the bandpass box only works for a certain 'band' of frequency and anything outside of that band is hushed.

The iffy thing is that the bandpass box design typically hides distortion. Distortion is that horrible sound that speakers make when they have too much volume going to them and that sound is not typically within the band that the enclosure is tuned for. This is good because you don't have to hear it, always sounds clean. This is bad because you don't know when your subs are screaming for mercy and you are more likely to let them destroy themselves.

Bandpass boxes are extremely difficult to design. There is no such thing as a 'standard' bandpass box, they are very specific for the exact speaker that is going in it. Putting two high-dollar 12" JL subs in a 'off the shelf' bandpass box will not sound near as good as a single 10" in a proper bandpass box.

Just to give you an idea of what a bandpass box is capable of... Imagine a single 10" Savard HI-Q sub in a single bandpass box (.75'^3 sealed, 1.4'^3 vented, just about 2.2'^3 total) with 100 watts of Alpine power in a blazer. DJ Magic Mike made a quarter jump almost two feet off the top of the blazer, you could actually watch the top of the vehicle flop up and down...standing beside the open driver door let you observe your pants legs ruffle.

They are awesome when done correctly and embarassing when done incorrectly.

Help! I need some assistance. I have 2 12" RF punch and 2 8" RF punch woofers. I want to put them in my 2003 s-10 extended cab. I was thinking maybe build a bandpass enclosure for the 12's and just regular sealed for the 8's. or just use the 12's in a sealed configuration. what do you think? I like the idea of a bandpass box cause it will hit nice and low, especially with 2 8's to back it up. but a simple sealed design will probably work just fine for me. I would hate to go thru all the trouble of building a bandpass enclosure if this isnt necessary.

Ok. my buddy corrected me on the bandpass enclosure. not worth it unless you have competition stuff. but how about the 2 12's and 2 8's? should i run all 4, or just be happy with the 2?

I've got a pair of Pioneer 10's in different boxes. I know they are more capable of what they are putting out. My neigbor has the capability to build any kind of box I need. Would a bandpass box be better or a ported one? Maybe even a duel enclosed box? Also where can I go to get bandpass measurements?

hey do they make a bandpass box for two solo baric 12'' subs

Scott, unless you have already spoken to Fosgate and had them give you bandpass specs you should not try this. You'll spend an inordinate amount of time and end up with something that doesn't work well at all.

...and your buddy must be confused. A well designed bandpass box can make a cheap driver slam like you wouldn't imagine...he must have meant that they are not worth it unless you have the skills to design them properly.

your best bet is to use the 12's and the 8's..putting each in it's own sealed chamber that matches the manufacturer's recommended enclosure volume. Theoretically, there is no difference in the sound produced by a 12" sub and an 8" sub...the only difference is that the 12" can move more air than the 8" and will therefore be louder.

Use all four, get a big powerful amp, use a good crossover, and try not to get a 'disturbing the peace' ticket!

Peace bro

Chad, Pioneer makes subs designed for sealed boxes and they make subs designed for ported boxes...and they also make freeair subs that don't need anything more than a back dash to drop them in (no box at all.)

Find out exactly which make of sub you own (model number on back) and contact Pioneer. They spend a great deal of time and money to figure out what enclosure works well with their subs. Ask their advice and take it.

...and be sure to thank your neighbor properly. This is a lot of work (custom boxes cost between $100 and $900 depending on how complex) so you might mow his yard a couple of times or offer to detail his car (a good hand wax is always hard to turn down.) Neighbors like him should never be taken for granted!

thibideaux, I'm pretty sure they do...or at least I'm pretty certain that Kicker has researched this and has the box design available.

The solo baric was designed to be used in very small enclosures and this type of sub is usually well suited to bandpass applications. there are several series of Solo Barics now, find out exactly which model you have and check out the Kicker website...if you don't see the specs there send them an email, they probably already have a half dozen designs on file.

p.s. if you do get the design from Kicker and build it, be very precise. You will be rewarded with a hit of bass that four 15" subs in standard sealed enclosures can't touch. I'm not kidding...

sorry to inform u people but if ur gunna get a box makes sure it is custom made and is air tight. if u have a wooden box i have found that it bangs louder than most of peoples garbage. I have 4 JL audio 10w7's and 2 earthquake comp amps all custom fitted in my Navigator. the box is custom molded in a wooden box and still come home with atleast highest decibles hitting.

i have a 93 ford bronco that was handed down to me and i know very little about car sound sistems. i wont 2 15's but dont now what to put them in. But from what i've been hering, i think i will. i've lerned that serten speekers will sound beter in diferent vehichles. What should i do? if you now then e-mail me at . thinks

Id say stay away from bandpass. Sh!t is one word used to describe them.

I have a 2001 dodge dakota Quad Cab and i want to add my 2 12inch Comp RF .Im thinking about cutting through the bed and cab is this a good ideal or should i figure out a way to install them in the rear with the folding seats?

Hi all. Ive been researching audio equipment and reading alot about it. Still dont know all that much. So im here with a few questions.

I have a 92 nissan maxima with a stock head.
swapped the stock speakers for the best pioneer 6.5s and 6.9s. I would like an amp to boost their power, im thinking the Kicker 800.4, or 600.4
sound ok?
Im also shopping for a box.. that would be great for 2 JL W7s, in my trunk. My trunk isnt huge, but its roomy, and sound carries very well from my trunk to the cabin with just my 6x9s.

Amp to drive each sub.. hmm.. i have a very short list.. Orion, and viper. Now some companies make 3000 and 4000 watt amplifiers, but im thinking they sacrifice alot of crap just to rate them that high.. and im giving them a 1000 watt actual/minus rating. I think the resistance and THD? whatever the electronic noise term is. The power wont be crisp and i dont think they are regulated amps. But where i was looking i dont remember the stats. Except that a good one.. i could bridge at 1ohm on 2 channels for 1500 watts apiece. I give that maybe 1000-1200 watts, to take in consideration that amps rarely put out what they are said to produce, i think Orion and Viper amps have at most, a 100watt actual/minus rating.

Anyways, i need a bandpass box, 2 caps (of what farad?) and an amp to drive each. And probably a pair of tweeters, maybe another pair of 4" speakers by the wheel wells up front.

the head im shopping for is the Sony CDX-850MP

Id appreciate any feedback. Thanks alot!

i have a 10" 800W CT subwoofer and i would like to build a bandpass but i cant seem to find any pic on the net to help me could some one help me or send me a web address where i could find step by step pics to show me how to build a bandpass system.


If you put either one of those Kicker amps on Pioneer 6.5" and 6x9" speakers, they will die a spectacular death. You might actually get smoke out of them!

Try again, look for something more like these:

"Anyways, i need a bandpass box, 2 caps (of what farad?) and an amp to drive each."

Bandpass box, if you want to go bandpass you'll be in for a couple hundred bucks in fabrication. The box must be made specifically for YOUR subs. I don't know how well the W7 reacts in a bandpass environment but I can tell you that they are wicked enough that you don't need the benefits of a bandpass box. Just get big amps...really big amps.

Two you need them? read this:

Amps...depends on which version of the subs you want.

"And probably a pair of tweeters, maybe another pair of 4" speakers by the wheel wells up front."

Are you planning on tapping these extra drivers into the front speakers? If so, put the same extra drivers on the rear speakers too. I say this because you don't want a 2-ohm load on half the amp and a 4-ohm load on the other half of the amp. It should work...for a while anyway...but why risk it?

Steve Eickhoff
how would two 12" solo baric subs in a q-logic bandpass box sound compared to two 15" solos in a regular sealed box? I'm looking for tight punchy bass yet can knock your socks off. I drive an expedition.

Peronally I think you should go with a bandpass box it will hit hard and it really gives good sound when you get a really low frequency it has would be the best box to get the band pass would be good for comp. But if you listen to alot of hard rock and or rock you should go with a ported box but when you build the ported you have to have the ports just the right lenght or it will sound really bad. If you listen to alot of Rap and or music with bass i would go with a sealed or bandpass box because with the bandpass and sealed you will get hard hitting clean crisp sounds and you will here every low note. It will also sound alot better if you get a sound equalizer and hook up you mids, tweets, and subs to your amp your best amp would be a inter-fire 4 channel inter-fire amp that you could run your mids and tweets off, and bridge a seperate amp in for you subs. With the tweets you will get the really high frequency sounds. Your mids should only have a little bass going to them if you have to much it will sound like crap. If you cant afford and amp to power your mids you can hook them up to the back of your deck and turn the bass anywhere from 0 to -2, then turn your your treble to about 0 or -1 and you will get some pretty clean sound.

Steve Eickhoff
Thank you. What about 4 10's. How do you think that would sound. I listen to alot of techno by the way.

Hey guys I have two pioneer t-ws3041dvc 12's and im building a custom bandpass. i came up with my own design using the recommended demensions. They are going into my jeep grand cherokee. I cant decide on an amp tho.... I want to gewt the RMS of 400 watts out of them. They are DVC (dual voice coil) which means they have two sets of terminals on each speaker so without spending more than $500 i would hve to go with a two channel amp. I seen two for around my price range, they are KICKER and/or FOSGATE. The fosgate pushes 425x2 @ 2ohm and the kicker pushes the same but only 400watts rms x 2. My subs have a rms of 400 and a max of 800. Should i give them that 25 extra? Or should i treat my subs with care and not push them over the rec. rms? The fosgate pushes more but is cheaper. I guess im looking more toward the kicker. Anyone have any experience with either of these? Please let me know at my email

Thanks.......... *[S]Ma[C]K*

Steve, two 12" in a prefab bandpass will NOT be near as good as two 15" in proper sealed box(es).

You *could* get louder bass out of two 12" in a custom bandpass box but that louder bass would be over a very narrow band. Anything outside of that band will be either completely hushed or very faint.

If you want big bass and you can fit two 15" subs in proper sealed chambers, do it. It's tough to beat size when it comes to volume and bass.

hi all does anyone have plans for a bandpass box
for some 18" subs? if so get back to me.

bandpass for 18"s?, why not just a faceloaded ported box? what kind do you have?(man 18's slam so low, i love'em at 40hz and lower, wish i still had some!)

A bandpass for 18" subs... you'd need a cleared-out Excursion or Suburban to fit a 2-driver box.

They're big dude.

hey every one, i just baught two MTX6000 12" subs online and Im not sure what kind of box to get. I know i want two seperate boxes and i was thinking two bandpass's. I have herd that custom is much better so i held off on buying them online. Any suggestions will help,

Im about to get 2 Pioneer 12's with a Rockford Fosgate amp. I was wondering if the bandpass box would hit low bass good without using bass control or an equalizer.

So what is the better choice. A bandpass box, or a bypass box? I was told by my brother that a bypass is better but by the sounds of some of you, a bandpass is better. Is anyone here a specialist or have heard both and have an opinion?

What hits harder? 100W X 2 @ 2ohms or 50W X 2 @ 4 ohms? I know nothing about amps and need to know.

100 x 2 means that ur amp distributes that amount of power at a 2 ohm load and 50 x 2 is half the power so therefore 100x2 is better.Always remember the smaller the ohm load the bigger the power but It also means a little more distortion when theres a smaller ohm load.

Which Pioneer 12's ?

New member
Username: Joe22086

Post Number: 1
Registered: 12-2003
Ok I have 4 12's there JL's All Round, and two Fosgate amps, for a total of 2000 watts, with a laptop controlled crossover up front, i just have this small little prob, I bought one box complete with bandpass box & subs, but my problem is one box is backwards, i was wondering do you get more power out of it if its backwards (Magnents facing Window, Not back of Box) ????

Unregistered guest
hey hey i have 4 1000 watt 10s and have limited space in my 99" dodge ram single cab.... What should i Do??

Unregistered guest
and i have a 2000 watt 4 channel amp with a regular 1 farad capacitor i need ideas plz

Unregistered guest
Does a bandpass requires stuffing. I mean should it be filled with glasswool or similar material.

New member
Username: Bdb_86

Post Number: 3
Registered: 12-2003
i have been trying to do somthing different in my new car i have been trying to do somthing with 8" speakers but i dont have alot of money and i dont just want to put them in the trunk. so far i have just 2 8" crunch usa subwoofers in the 6x9 whols witch i am not plaining on sticking with and i have a third in my room but i am looking to put a bandpass box between the whols and put the ports through the rear deck in my car and then put 2 6 1/2" speakers as mid and tweet in the 6x9 hols is this a very good idea if not what could be better i like the true sound of an 8" speaker so i would like to stick with that + i have never seen a bandpass box that holds 3 speakers

Unregistered guest
I had a ford probe(hatchback) with a 15 inch kicker in a sealed box. It pounded hard, couldn't of been happier right.Ok so then i ended up getting a new s-10 extra cab-king cab whatever,so i put my sub in my truck. I couldnt believe what i heard i mean it didnt even hit at all, it was like muffled,JUST DID NOT SOUND LIKE IT DID AT ALL.(the speaker wasn't blown, amp was fine,box was fine, head unit fine, and so on...... checked everthing. Only thing i can think of is to use a ported box or bandpass box. I guess the probe just had more room /air or whatever and my s-10 has so little room. ----what should i do ---
--thanks-- anyone with suggestions e-mail me -

jay amaro
Unregistered guest
the difference is the hatchback. much better acoustics and especially because the glass but yeah you could try a little more power and a ported box and that should get you close to where you were. do you have room to do a ported box in your truck and you mentioned that you had a extra or king cab so maybe you can build a new box for the kicker and use the extra space also you have to remember that bass travels a very specific distance and in a longer probe with the 15" and its distance in relation to you it sounded better but now using the same 15" and it being practically right beside you and the loss of cabin acoustic performance then as strange as this might sound but you might want to go to a 10" or 12" to make better use of the new smaller cabin of the truck.

Unregistered guest
TO: Jay Amaro- i couldnt of asked for a better answer, i understand now. thanks bro- i think ill get a 10" kicker square and put a lot of power to it but the only thing is: how big of a box can i go(should it be vented or ported) definitely dont want sealed-i dont know if the box that kicker makes for its "kicker squares" would sound right in my truck i might run into the same problem--if u had my truck what would u suggest?

jay amaro
Unregistered guest
hey trey well i have good news for you.
ok well if you go with the solo baric 10" which would be perfect for your application then you wouldnt need a very big box even for a ported box.
ok heres the deal and ill give you the info for box a sealed and ported box
to tune it to 31.98hz you will need 1 port tube 2" in diameter and about 5 and 3/4 inches long.
you can expect the sub to peak and flatten its curve out around 44.72hz and become linear after that so it should do really good for you and give you back most of what you had in your car.

ok now for a sealed box for comparison or considation which will be a slightly smaller box.
this one starts to flatten out around 80hz

so you knew how that was gonna turn out and the ported box will be tuned to give you good bass performance very low and starts to reach the higher db/spl levels around a nice low 45hz so i think youll be very happy with the ported box and the kicker 10 solo baric.

also keep in mind if the suggested dimensions need altering to fit better in your truck the numbers can be played with a little here and there but for example lets use the ported box dimensions:
if you didnt need it to be lets say 20 inches wide and 18 works better in width for you then take the 2 inches you took from the 20 and put it somewhere else like maybe you can go with a taller box so you take the 2 inches and add it to the 12 and now you have 14.
so now the box is:
and maybe that works better for you but whatever you have to do to get it to fit you havent changed the internal volume just the shape but by rearranging the dimensions without really subtracting anything or remembering to add it back somewhere else you can make it fit your vehicle better and the limitations are all upto you.
the only thing about doing that is always leave yourself enough room for the subwoofer "face" to fit with atleast a inch but ideally 2 inches all around it and also if you change the depth then leave enough room in the box for the mounting depth.
have fun and hope this helped.
p.s. if you run into any problems or have any questions you can reach me by email at:
in fact let me know how this turns out and good luck dude!

New member
Username: Glasswolf

Post Number: 453
Registered: 12-2003
have Mister Amaro re-calculate that port for you using 3" ID tubes.
if you use 2" with a 10" Solobaric, I guarantee you'll end up with nasty port whistle.

New member
Username: Redskin

Post Number: 18
Registered: 12-2003
Hey just checked out the Kicker website and they recommend 1.25cuft as a minimum for a ported box. Assuming jays 12x20x8 is an external box size, then once you've built out of 3/4" mdf and accounted for the space taken up inside the box by the speaker and port the you end up with .66cuft. Just thought I'd point it out.

jay amaro
Unregistered guest
very good redskin im glad you caught that i did forget to account for material thickness and based on 3/4 mdf then yes my error and i will revise my suggestion:
16x24x10 would be much better and thanks glasswolf i knew i could count on you hmm yeah perhaps why take the chance and ok for a 3" dia. port then looking at the new box dimensions perhaps a 3" diameter port tube at 14" long will work best for this box and give you the same characteristics for a tuning frequency at 32hz.
ok well im off to party hope everyone has a good and safe new years!

Bandpass sucks, take it from someone who has had three of them. All with proper dimensions and subs. As many people on this site have stated, they are good for a small hertz sweet spot, out of that and you just have a rumbling hum that drones out the rest of the music. If you just want to make noise then by all means go with a bandpass. I now run 2 Alpine type R's in a sealed box and the bass is mind blowing and clean through all the low ranges. Think about this, 2 12's in a sealed or ported box move more air than 2 15's in a bandpass box. Another thing, I spent alot of money on components for all four of my doors in a Rover and I got sick and tired of the bandpass box drowning out sounds that it wasnt supposed to, and I got tired of adjusting my bass to compensate for the bass difference in every song...bandpass box bass lingers a little to long....

Unregistered guest
Has anyone ever heard of a hotbox and if so
send how to build that woodshit box so i make one cause those boxes are suposed to be the mutherfuckingshit...

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