Just a quick question, after browsing these forms, my conclusion is that the general concensus is that God should smite users of Boss amps and flogg anyone suggesting that they are going to purchase one...
Whats with all the hate? I have a "C3000D Boss Chaos 3000W D Class mono block amplifier" paid about $200 for it, came with a 5 year warrenty, has remote bass nobbie thing, gain control, and freaking cranks out 2200w RMS at 1/2 ohm (its currently pushing two 12" audioban 1200u subs) i've had it cranked so loud neighboors a block down the street threatened my life! Inside the car its unbarable (turned up) and i'm supprised the hatchback window hasn't shattered yet. Its never turned off or overheated even after many hours of continued use (one trip i even fried my head unit it go so hot, the amp was still cranking away) Every "high end" amp i looked at was priced over 1000 bucks for that kind of RMS wattage.
So what's the beef?, what am i missing?, for a D class mono amp, isn't a rating of 2200W RMS the same from one amp to another?
Oh, and unless pyramid has gotten WAY and i mean WAY better in the last few years, anyone who thinks their products are better than Boss's...dang!
Well i was thinking of getting a c-800 boss 4ch amp which is rated at 150w x 4 4ohm rms..for $150 seems hard to pass up, at least compaired to $600, WHAT AM I MISSING??? Maybe my ears arn't tuned or something, is an extra $450 worth it?
Basically what happens is they are made cheaply with cheap parts and usually dont last a long time. The thing is if you like it then thats all that matters. They are just trying to help people out so they get a good system the first time. How do you know your amp pushes 2200 rms. Have you had it tested or what?
Exactly, you won't truly know how much power it really puts out until you test the amp. You can't go by specs. Boss amps are cheaply made and overrated. If your amp doesn't have at least a 200 amp fuse value, then you can forget it putting out 2200W RMS. With a true 2200W RMS and good subs, your hearing would be gone by now. Your alternator would strain to the point of failure as no stock alternator puts out that kind of amperage. But if you're happy with it, that's what matters. They have high failure rates and are poorly made, which is why we won't recommend them to other people. And no, ratings aren't the same, some companies lie (Boss included), some companies underrate their products (JL Audio, Kicker, etc. are a good example) and some are dead on. There isn't a big regulation or a required compliance for companies to use before rating amps, so they can post whatever specs they like. There is CEA compliance, but the companies choose whether they want to participate or not. I think the cost of these amps should show you their poor build quality, I mean $200 bucks for a "2200W RMS" amplifier? An equivalent amp from an upper company (with good build quality and materials) would be over $1000 bucks, some approaching $2000.
i have owned boss amps and they dont put out anywhere near there rated power!
i had an R1400D...that was rated for 800 watts (that is not what is says if you look at it on the web, but i called boss and that it what i was TOLD!)...this thing had a 40A fuse, so at best it could only make 450watts at 1ohm!
and the SQ is very crappy.
i paid bout $140 for that amp shipped and had it on an L512...then i put a JBL 600.1 ($210) on the L5...HUGE difference!!!!!
No no, of course i haven't "dyno'd" my amp (what do you do slap on a volt meter and do some physics calculations? in a perfect world RMS power is peak power times (2 / by square root of 2 right?) or .707. So what would be near 2200w RMS okay so nothing gets close to "perfect" but that is at one ohm, so going down to 1/2 ohm it seems possible.
Secondly it has 3x30amp fuses (90amp) which by marshalls calculations would be nearing 1000rms power potention at 1 ohm...cranked down to 1/2 ohm...
Realistically though on a D class mono amp SQ doesn't make much sense to me as i'm only trying to get wattage into the subs (one of these days i'll try to get an SPL meter). When i'm playing a bass CD going as low as 20hz my speakers from audiobaun rated at 750w rms each are flexing over two inches and knocking things off the shelves in my house....(oh and I do wear full ear protectors, sometimes the bass is so low i think its interfearing with my heart beating)...i've had good 600w amps, they didn't produce that kind of sound with these subs.....
some people just want LOUD BASS and have booming systems that sound like someone beating on a trash can......but others like clean bass (like me).
the calculation u are looking at for RMS power is for AC current, it doesnt apply in this case...there is a link that expains this but i dont remember it, i'll look for it.
Boss is just cheap, i thought my boss amp was good when i had it (one of the first amps i got), but i was saddly mistaken...
I'd bet $100 to a donut that amp wont put out anywhere near 2200wrms of un clipped power!
I do like the amp, i'm just courious what difference i'm going to get out of a $1200 amp?
i understand the theory of clean power and that is usually what you get with a more expensive amp, but my speakers don't sound like i'm hitting a trash can, ...when the bass is supposed to hit, it hits...they arn't kappa perfect speakers, its rough bass, supposed to be low and hard (as in d-class mono).
I haven't used expensive amps before (as obviously) i can't afford them (or we wouldn't even be having this discussion). i'm just courious what i'm missing, but i'll never know because not enough funds to find out .
As for class A amps to reproduce actual musical sounds and higher frequencies, i can by the need for a great quality amp! therefore i'm still running off the deck because i haven't found a decien't one for cheap yet .
And no, i don't work or any any affiliation with Boss audio, but i've been pretty impressed with the 3000d its outperformed all the amps i've used before....yes limited but it outperforms my older orion 600x1, a/d/s 500x1 something or other, of course killed my 600w jenson. My friend has two 15" orion speakers hooked up to two 600x1 orion amps (not sure model or anything) and his car will stop your heart, but we both agreed that my setup reproduces lower frequencies better and harder.
Anyway it looks like boss should be reconsidered so i won't be getting their 4x150w amp....
So any suggestions for high quality low cost 4ch amps (need at least 50wx4 rms ..
With a 90 amp fuse value, and a 14.4V power supply, your amp would be capable of a maximum peak of 1296 watts(which will never be attained, by the way), this assumes 100% efficiency. Given an amp is inefficient, Class D is typically 80%, it MIGHT be about 1000W RMS. This is without a reactive load (speaker, basically). Given 1 ohm, 1/2 ohm, etc., power will be even less. Only real way to test an amp accurately is with an oscilloscope. The .707 RMS equation does NOT apply to car audio amplifiers in any way. Peak power from an amplifier is attained from sudden burst of power, and since an amp has different efficiencies at different levels, average power levels will fluctuate greatly. Like Marshall said, the .707 equation applies to an Ac power supply (car audio is a DC power supply) and while the audio produced is considered AC, it's totally different because it fluctuates constantly because of both inefficiency and the signal.
Dink...i was just like you when i had my first system.
i had 2 10" audiobahns and a boss r1400d (ouch...hurts to even think i was that stupid)anyways, some guy talked me into the audiobahns so i got them. ($200 mistake just on the subs)
i saved up and got an L5 and put to boss amp on it, it was better than the audiobahns but not what i wanted...i then bought a JBL BP600.1, and even though an L5 isnt an SQ sub the sound was WAY better.
you say that your bass is rough...well thats just what i didnt want...you can have gut pounding bass that isnt rough, you can have better SQ that what you may think.
but like i said, if you like it...keep it i just dont recommend buying more boss, they have a high failure rate (even though your amp hasnt died and it may not).
in fact, the r1400d i had was DOA! i had to exchange it!
my amp (what do you do slap on a volt meter and do some physics calculations? in a perfect world RMS power is peak power times (2 / by square root of 2 right?) or .707. So what would be near 2200w RMS okay so nothing gets close to "perfect" but that is at one ohm, so going down to 1/2 ohm it seems possible.