My system shuts off by itself, jon glass help!

 

Bronze Member
Username: Virulentv

Post Number: 35
Registered: Mar-04
a month back i bought id max 12 and a hifonics brutus 1000d . when bought it was working fine on normal listening levels . recently(after 3 weeks of installation) the system is cutting off by itself when their is a groove in the song and it keeps on happening till i lower the volume which is already low. the amp is pushing 1000x1@1ohm to the id max d2. i am running it without a cap. i know the ans to the quest to get a new alternator but i am wondering why wasnt it happening for the first 3 weeks. if i replace the battery will it help? cause i will have to get a alternator made for a not very common car mitsubishi galant '97 which is not in my range at the moment. i can think of adding a cap or replacing a battery. any help would be apprciated .
 

Silver Member
Username: Jmloughrey

Farmington, CT

Post Number: 207
Registered: Jul-04
sounds like the amp may be going into protection mode...
 

Bronze Member
Username: Virulentv

Post Number: 36
Registered: Mar-04
the amp is not going into any protection mode the whole system including HU shuts off and turns on again and does it over and over till i turn the volume down
 

Bronze Member
Username: Joe718

Post Number: 96
Registered: May-04
if it is the alternator it sometimes takes time for the for the wear and tear of the amp to actually set in so it might have took 3 weeks for anything to happen. i would check the ground connections of your amps and your head unit usually when you have a weak ground or no ground your sysytem stays on then when you push it hard it cuts off.
 

Silver Member
Username: Insearchofbass

Post Number: 161
Registered: Jun-04
yes i would suspect a bad ground
 

Silver Member
Username: Insearchofbass

Post Number: 162
Registered: Jun-04
sorry i didnt read all of your post. I retract the ground comment. It sounds like a weakened battery. If its the alternator youll hear a noise coming from the alternator.
 

Silver Member
Username: Jayj

Louisiana USA

Post Number: 450
Registered: May-04
LMAO sorry but not all the time you don't Sean. If really sounds like more then a alternator issue to me I would take it to a shop and have a installer take a look for you.
 

Silver Member
Username: Insearchofbass

Post Number: 165
Registered: Jun-04
maybe so im no mechanic but heard that before...but my brother is the mechanic so ill ask him for the details
 

Gold Member
Username: Jonathan_f

GA USA

Post Number: 1306
Registered: May-04
It's a definate alternator problem. I'm surprised you haven't totally fried your alternator yet, honestly, the problem is that it's probably weakening due to it straining too much, or the regulator is starting to go. If the problem was the battery, it would have already died and the system wouldn't have just popped back on after lowering the volume, you'd be on the side of the road somewhere. Only other thing it could be is a short, but if you didn't hear sparks or smell smoke, this isn't the case (sounds the same as if someone was welding). You also possibly didn't drive the alt. as hard during the first 3 weeks, maybe you are running more accessories now, such as AC, etc. (maybe it's hotter outsider where you live, etc.), or listening louder now that the equipment has broken in. Little stuff counts and can explain the problem.
 

Silver Member
Username: Insearchofbass

Post Number: 166
Registered: Jun-04
i actually said battery because of voltage probs which does occur with my system but just my amp temporarily shuts down. When he said all shuts off including head unit which would be extreme loss of voltage my friends buddies dvd screen actually goes out on extreme draw then comes back on when volume is lowered.
 

Gold Member
Username: Jonathan_f

GA USA

Post Number: 1312
Registered: May-04
I guess he needs a new alternator, too. :-) Voltage problems occur with the alternator if the vehicle is running, not the battery, if a battery fails, then it will not hold a charge at all, it will simply drain out due to the plates losing electrolyte, eventually neutralizing itself, a battery is basically either ok or dead, that's just the way it goes, if the voltage drops and then comes back when the volume is turned down, then the alternator is to blame. A battery will only show if it's bad when you are starting the car, since the alternator is what supplies electricity when the car is running. If the current draw is extreme, the alternator should be charging, no question about that, and if it's capable for the job it will charge enough to maintain sufficient voltage and current within the system even during continuous peak draw. If your alternator is up to par, you'll only notice dimming on very, very brief transient peaks, and this is usually only because the regulator hasn't kicked in. A capacitor could help in that situation. Extreme losses of voltage, amps shutting off, and the dvd screen going out are all signs that the alternator isn't charging up to snuff. Even if just the amp shuts down, some amps have to operate at higher voltages and will go into protection if the voltage is too low, unlike the car's electrical components which don't go into protection, this may be why you only notice the amp going off.
 

Silver Member
Username: Insearchofbass

Post Number: 171
Registered: Jun-04
yeah i knew about the battery and the car being on jon but what i was suspecting was a weakenened battery but your right id assume it was the alternator too and the other guy i was refering too has a xtant 1000 watt in an suv his is just due to too much draw for his alternator and the voltage is dropping too low in my opinion but your did clear up other paticulars for me
 

Gold Member
Username: Jonathan_f

GA USA

Post Number: 1314
Registered: May-04
Just making sure he doesn't waste his money on a deep cycle or a capacitor as they can be expensive and of no help to him :-) Those can help, but the alternator is the big upgrade.
 

Silver Member
Username: Insearchofbass

Post Number: 174
Registered: Jun-04
i agree alternator thats all i tell people just makes perfect sense (smiles back)
 

Bronze Member
Username: Kickercomp

Tampa, FL USA

Post Number: 53
Registered: Jun-04
i have a jl 1000/1 in my explorer and it was killing my bat and alternator, but when i replaced my old battery with an SVR battery its fine now. i know eventually ill need a new alt but for a few months it works fine
 

Bronze Member
Username: Virulentv

Post Number: 37
Registered: Mar-04
the ground connections are fine. yeah jon u r rite about more accessories like ac running on . but as i said earlier i really cant afford to spent that much money on the thing rite now , isnt their a cheaper solution ? like adding a battery or replacing a battery ? or getting a cap ? anything but not the alt cause just replacing the alt wouldnt help as it will be producing the same 90amp i would wanna go with something 160amp and i would have to get one made which is gonna cost be a good fortune 500.
 

Gold Member
Username: Jonathan_f

GA USA

Post Number: 1324
Registered: May-04
Honestly, the alternator is the only thing that will fix your problem. Buying batteries and capacitors isn't going to help, you'll just be wasting money that you should have saved for an alternator. A lot of sites like www.mralternator.com will custom make you one, all you do is send them your information like vehicle make, model, etc. Instructions are on the site. They make a Montero alternator, the wiring and size should be pretty close, depends on whatever engine you have is offered in both the Galant and Montero as the same engine generally has at least the same alternator dimensions. Even if not, they can give you pricing on a custom alternator. Shouldn't cost too much more than their regular priced ones.
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