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New member Username: XiwkxPost Number: 2 Registered: Jul-04 | hey, i just got a 1996 mustang gt convertible and am looking to put a system in it. Ive already put in a pioneer deh6600 hu and im looking for a subs/amp combination that is going to give me the best spl from the convertible. The back seats and cabin area are completely sealed of from the trunk, and the trunk itself has very little room. I was looking at either 3 L5 10"s or 2 L7 12"s with the Audiobahn 1300HCT or 1500HCT amp, but im really looking for any suggestions in the $1000-$1200 price range for subs and amp. It will most likely be a smaller sealed box, because i dont have the room to port. I don't want it to sound horrible, but i mainly want it to just be loud enough and move enough air to hurt my ears and vibrate my seats. My last car was a hatchback and i was spoiled by the spl i could get with the system i had. Also if anyone has any experience with installing in convertibles, input would be greatly appreciated. Also while i was stereo shopping around town, I was offered this deal: 2 JL Audio 12w6v2's, the JL 1000/1, custom box and installation for $1650. I know this is a pretty good deal and it would sound awesome, but how would it compare to the kicker's or anything else manufactured for spl in loudness? |
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Silver Member Username: Davids2004Houston, TX USA Post Number: 433 Registered: Jun-04 | Do one S10L7 in a ported box with an xtant A6001T. Make sure to get the 4 ohm version. Then go to www.proboxrocks.com and get their superbass box for 1 10 sq sub and that will rock your world and shouldnt take up much room at all. |
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Silver Member Username: Jonathan_fGA USA Post Number: 846 Registered: May-04 | The W6 combo would sound a lot better than the L7's, but the L7's would hit harder. I'd personally get the W6's as they will hit as hard as I would want them to, a small sealed box will do them well. There are inherent problems with square subs that will never be overcome, such as uneven stress points, cone flex, surround problems over time. All will detract from the Sound quality, and will affect the durability of the sub. A properly built round sub will always outlast a square sub, and sound better doing it. |
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Gold Member Username: GlasswolfNorthWest, Michigan USA Post Number: 4237 Registered: Dec-03 | two 12" RE triple X's ($720 shipped for the pair from reaudio.com) and a pair of JBL bp1200.1 amps. one per sub. that'd give you 1200 watts each for the 12" subs and they take up to 1500wRMS each. the amps are about $280 each. that'd be my suggestion if you really want something to hit hard. or save a bit and buy one 15" RE for about $420 and spend more on the amplifier for it and go with something like Directed or Orion who offer class D amps rated for 2Kw RMS x 1 @ 2 ohms. |
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New member Username: XiwkxPost Number: 3 Registered: Jul-04 | What about the MT series 12's that are made for SPL? And where on the website is information about ordering, i can't find any prices or anything. Also, would these work well in a smaller sealed box or are they made for any type of box? |
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Gold Member Username: GlasswolfNorthWest, Michigan USA Post Number: 4246 Registered: Dec-03 | the MT subs aren't released yet mailto:sales@reaudio.com for sales info the RE subs for SPL would be best in a ported enclosure. that'd be about 2cu ft each for 12" slot vented tuned to about 35Hz to hit deeply, or 55Hz if all you're after is SPL and 'screw SQ altogether. |
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New member Username: XiwkxPost Number: 4 Registered: Jul-04 | How do the RE X X X's compare to the Image Dynamics MAXv.3's, the Adire Bramhas and the Directed Audio CompX's in performance, and which are the best for their price? |
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New member Username: XiwkxPost Number: 5 Registered: Jul-04 | And where can i get the jbl 1200.1 for $280? The best i've found is about $350... |
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Gold Member Username: GlasswolfNorthWest, Michigan USA Post Number: 4266 Registered: Dec-03 | all over ebay last time I looked as for comparing the subs, it's time you do some research instead of getting everyone else to do the work for ya. go listen to them, or read up on reviews. |
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Bronze Member Username: GoodstangLong Island, NY USA Post Number: 43 Registered: Jun-04 | Let me give you some advice about 1996 Mustang Gt Convertibles. I have own of my own, and although I don't have a crazy sound system (right now, 4 Infinity Reference Component Speakers, 2 Sony 12" Subs, Sony 800W Amp for the speakers and a Sony 1200W Amp for the subs, powered by a sony cdxmp30 head unit and sony xe-744 equalizer), I have a bit of experience in what will work regarding the trunk. First things first, the trunk is not completely separated from the cabin area of the car. Take your car apart (yes, just grab a screwdriver, and start undoing), and you will soon see that the trunk is only separated from the cabin area by a plastic panel and plastic cover in the trunk, and the rear seats themselves. When you remove the rear seats and the plastic panel in the trunk, you will reveal a hole about 2 feet wide by one foot tall that exists between the two areas. One important thing to keep in mind with the mustang is that if you have a wing on the trunk of your car (if its a gt, you most likely do), it will rattle like hell with a sub containing any kind of bounce in the trunk. I have 2 Sony 12" subs, and as bad as everyone says sony's subs are, when they are plugged in at half volume they will cause the wing to rattle to an unbearable point. I've brown breaded the entire trunk (similar to dynomat), and still no change. In my opinion, the trunk rattle in a mustang vert trunk is unavoidable. Instead of a trunk installation, think instead about a rear seat installation. The seats come off 1-2-3 (i think its a pull here and two screws there), and you will soon see that the removed rear seats create a good spot to place a pair of subs, an amp or two, and your rear speakers. I've been drawing plans together all summer, and am yet to come out with something that I will really like... but in my opinion the rear seats is where you should put a pair of subs in a mustang convertible... no matter how good quality equipment you purchase, the trunk rattle cannot be avoided. Right now, my plans are two ten inch subs, facing directly to the back side of the front seats, and then placing the two amps atop the subs, with the midbass speakers also facing the rear seats, placed above the amps. My only fear is that stacking car audio stuff in the rear seats may look tacky -- so I'm still not sure as to just exactly I want to do. Anyways, one other idea that I am yet to try is a possible trunk installation for the subs. You will find the convertible top hydrolic pump in between the rear seats and the plastic cover in the trunk. I surmise that you can unscrew the pump, and relocate it inside the tire well - - clearing the 2 foot by one foot opening completely. Then, you could place two subs in the trunk, and aim them towards the hole (the aim of the subs is everything, if you allow space for the sound waves to spread into the cabin of the car, I would guess that trunk rattle would be largely reduce). Finally, you could cut some sort of sheet of wood, carpet it, and place it where the rear seats formerly were.... Just an idea. |