Hey guys lost my login information and had to make a new account but here's my latest. Been running 2 dd1512s off an older model aq1200d and its been great had canaan build the box nearly 4 years ago now. Where my problem lies is this. I finally got fed up with my front stage not keeping up with my substage so I bought the new soundqubed 4 channel amp and a set of their pro series components. Had a prefab box from autozone or something that holds the components perfectly with a little cutting. Ive got no idea how to tune these speakers right and the cs tech @ soundqubed told me I didn't need crossovers since the amp is cross over so I used ch1 and 2 for the tweeters and 3 and 4 for the mids. I somewhat made some adjustments to them and they scream.on some songs but they just dont sound right and I think theyre slightly distorted and ill damage them if I turn them up without properly tuning them. Also the headunit I recently bought is a pioneer deh6500bt and when its under custom tuning I dont know what hz I should use. Another issue is I still my stock speakers in my doors and they obviously get distorted before my new components do.
You the man GlassWolf! that was some good reading, it really enlightened my reasoning of college physics last year in regards to sound. How would you wire up these https://www.soundqubed.com/Pro-Audio-_c_22.html to this amp? https://www.soundqubed.com/Q4-120_p_150.html If im looking at this correct to get the most out of these speakers. I should split the two tweeters across 1 channel and then the 2 mids I can give them each a channel? By doing that It's close enough where I shouldnt damage anything correct? Also, if I can do this what settings should my head unit be set too? My sub settings are 63 hz at -12 not the -6, and typically for the level I leave it at -10. for the front speaker custom setting I have the 800hz 4000hz 2.5kHz and it goes up from there. I know this somewhat has to do with my preference but Im looking for these speakers to just get as loud as they can without hurting them. And if you look at the pictures of this amp I cannot reason on where to set the frequency knob. It's such a big jump I cannot tell how far to move it. Any tips?
I'd run the tweeters on channels 1 & 2, and the mids on channels 3 & 4, as follows:
tweeters: high-pass 12dB/octave (Q) 0 phase maybe -3dB cut to output (trim them a little so they aren't too bright) XO freq 6KHz to maybe 8KHz
midrange: band-pass as follows: high pass (cuts out bass) 100-120Hz 12dB Q 0 phase
low pass (blocks treble) 5KHz 12dB Q 0 phase
This will in effect have your subs at 63Hz (I'd set the Q to 18dB on the sub amp, or even 24dB. You want it to roll off steeply to avoid bleeding into midbass ranges) then your midrange front stage will kick in gradually till it hits full volume at 100-120Hz (1 octave above the cut-off for the sub, allowing the sub to blend into the mid without a "warm spot" where they'd overlap if they were crossed over at the same points, say both at 80Hz. Remember a crossover isn't a brick wall. The frequency you select, is wehre the volume will begin to gradually get quieter above or below that point, at X decibels per octave, where X is your Q setting, and an octave is double, or half the previous frequency (say 160Hz up from an XO point of 80Hz, with a Q of 12dB, would be 12dB quieter, or a little more than half the audible volume at 160Hz, and so on) then your midrange covers up to 5KHz, where it will blend into the tweeter at 6-8KHz on up for the tweeter.
That should give a smooth transition between speakers, without any major issues with beaming due to having too steep of a roll off. If you went to a 6dB Q for the mid and tweeter, you'd have a smoother transition still, but at the cost of a reduction in peak volume because the speakers would be doing more work as they roll off, which can cause them to bottom out more easily. 12dB is a good Q or slope for roll-off between mids and tweets, in general. 18 or 24dB can cause beaming problems and localization or point-sourcing problems, and 6dB can cause some warm spots without a parametric EQ to shape everything, or can cause problems as mentioned above. For subs on the other hand, you want to cut them off more abuptly, as to allow them to play further into midbass territory can cause them to sound overly warm, boomy, and muddy. Personally, I like my subs XOed around 50Hz, with an 18 to 24dB Q, which keeps them very crisp and snappy and tight.
GlassWolf, im trying to figure out more precisely where to position the knobs on my amp. its such a broad range and with few marks to tell me where about the correct frequency is. Does the frequency change the gain level if you tune it with the multimeter? Also If I use this way for my subs (2 DD1512's wired to 1 ohms to match my amp) then it is the sqrt(1200 watts x 1 ohm)? and then for the regular speakers sqrt(120 watts x 4 ohms)? Also I just used the 63Hz setting on my head unit because it seemed like it was a bit louder on certain songs I dont have to have it there and if I'd get better results from the 50Hz then I would gladly adjust it as such.
that image is too small to read for me, so I can't really help much from that. try the sub at different points and see which you prefer. Give 50Hz a day or two and see if you prefer it or not. If not, go back to 63. Are you trying to set the gain, or the XO frequency? Gain can be set with a meter. If you can't tell the frequency settings accurately, I'd use a laptop with RTA software and a mic to set them, myself, using frequency centered tones. Lacking that, you can try to do it by best guess from the dial by segmenting it to fing wehre the right spot should be. I used to have to do that with the old Orion 200 and 300 CRX crossovers.
I understand GlassWolf that was as big as I could get it to pull up and take a screen shot at the same time. how do you set it to "fing where the right spot should be"? Also, was my gain formula correct to use for the MM?
