(2) RE Audio SXX-12D4 12" or (2) Alpine SWR-1243D 12

 

New member
Username: E3_overkill

Post Number: 6
Registered: Jul-11
Hey guys i need your help and opinion one what to get. I cant decided between these two subwoofers. The RE Audio SXX 12 D4 or Alpine Type R 1243D (new model). I'm looking for SPL but not trying to sacrifice SQ. so i need your guys help and opinion

First Set-up-
Subwoofers- (2) Alpine Type R 12inch (new model)
RMS- 600 watts
Peak- 1800 watts

Amp- MB Quarts 1500. 1 Mono D
Bridge @ 1 Ohm load-1500
750 RMS Per Sub

Enclosures- 1.75 Cubic Foot Per Sub (Ported)


Second Set-up-
Subwoofer- RE Audio SXX 12 inch
RMS- 1000 watts
Peak- 2000 watts

Amp- Hifonics HFI2000 Mono D
Bridged @ 1 Ohm load 2000
1000 RMS Per Sub

Enclosure- 1.75 Cubic Foot Per Sub

So guys i really need your help on which to get Set-up i should get. Once again I'm Looking for SPL but not trying to totally sacrifice SQ.Thank Guys.
 

Gold Member
Username: Joebruce

Crescendo Audio FTMFW!!, AA Havoc 15 ... Your Mom FTW!!

Post Number: 3673
Registered: May-04
Didnt you already post this exact thread a couple weeks ago?

Anyways.........

I say go with the 2 12" D4 Alpine-Rs with the MB Quart amp. That will be a very nice budget system and be plenty loud and sound good as well.
 

Gold Member
Username: Kaerfpl

Spencerport, NY USA

Post Number: 1268
Registered: Jun-06
Yea... I remember this same exact thread. I believe a majority of the people said to go with the alpines.
 

New member
Username: E3_overkill

Post Number: 7
Registered: Jul-11
no it different it was Re audio Sex 12 no SXX different and model alpine type r as well. to different thread with totally different stuff. just same companies is all. and im still having trouble in deciding
 

Gold Member
Username: Kaerfpl

Spencerport, NY USA

Post Number: 1270
Registered: Jun-06
does it really have to be between these? If not, what's your budget?

If you cannot look into any other brands and it absolutely has to be these, then I personally also go with the Alpines.
 

Gold Member
Username: Joebruce

Crescendo Audio FTMFW!!, AA Havoc 15 ... Your Mom FTW!!

Post Number: 3675
Registered: May-04
Oh ok. I still say go with the Alpine and MB setup. The 2 12 Alpines will be louder than the 1 12" RE.
 

New member
Username: E3_overkill

Post Number: 8
Registered: Jul-11
Nah its doesn't have to be these two brands at all. and no their will be 2 12 inch Re SXX as well. not just one. which brands do you suggest?
 

New member
Username: E3_overkill

Post Number: 9
Registered: Jul-11
Oh shot and yeah my budget probably around like 750 or so.
 

Gold Member
Username: Joebruce

Crescendo Audio FTMFW!!, AA Havoc 15 ... Your Mom FTW!!

Post Number: 3676
Registered: May-04
Well out of those choices I still say go with the Alpines. But you can always look in to other brands and maybe get something a little better. it just all depends on how much you want to spend.
 

Gold Member
Username: Joebruce

Crescendo Audio FTMFW!!, AA Havoc 15 ... Your Mom FTW!!

Post Number: 3677
Registered: May-04
Check out these subs

http://www.audioque.com/Street-Duty-SDC25-12-D4-Subwoofer_p_11.html

And maybe this amp

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_23875_MB-Quart-ONX1.1500D.html

The 12" subs are on sale for $129 and the amp on Sonic is $199. So that leaves you with enough money left over to buy a nice amp kit from KNU and materials to build an enclosure.
 

New member
Username: E3_overkill

Post Number: 10
Registered: Jul-11
well what do you think are better brands? and my budget is about 750. so what do you think?
 

Gold Member
Username: Kaerfpl

Spencerport, NY USA

Post Number: 1271
Registered: Jun-06
Sundown Audio SA-12 D4 ($195 each):
http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/store/products/Sundown-Audio-SA%252d12.html

Audioque 1200D ($269)
http://www.audioque.com/AQ1200D-Amplifier_p_30.html

Overall, you'll have about roughly $50 left with your $750 budget. That's just would I would do personally.
 

Gold Member
Username: Joebruce

Crescendo Audio FTMFW!!, AA Havoc 15 ... Your Mom FTW!!

Post Number: 3678
Registered: May-04
Or if you want even more SPL then go with the HDC3s,maybe 1 12" or 1 15"

http://www.audioque.com/HD-Series-Subwoofers_c_13.html

They are beast subs! I had a 15" HD3 on 1000wrms ported tuned to 36hz and it was very loud! But I wasnt happy with the SQ so I sold it. The HDC3s will get loud but you will be sacrificing SQ. And my HD3 was kinda sloppy on the low notes. I dont know,you may like the way they sound but I wasnt happy with the lower end response or the SQ. But they will get loud!

The SD2.5s are supposed to be a nice mix of SPL and SQ,basically an everyday street beater sub. So I would reccomend the SD2.5s for your application.
 

Bronze Member
Username: E3_overkill

Post Number: 12
Registered: Jul-11
so i have a question as you can see im definitely new to car audio. does it usually mean if you have higher RMS won the Subs be louder. or nah ? i know its a pretty Noob question.
 

Bronze Member
Username: E3_overkill

Post Number: 13
Registered: Jul-11
Alright thank man i do really appreciate your suggest a lot.cause that basically what they well be used for. i want the car three line next to me to hear me. so that should be sick.
 

Gold Member
Username: Joebruce

Crescendo Audio FTMFW!!, AA Havoc 15 ... Your Mom FTW!!

Post Number: 3679
Registered: May-04
Not necessarily,it all comes down to the install. The enclosure,electrical system,amplifier,there are many variables to consider. People can make a 200wrms sub be louder than a 2000wrms sub. Dont just look at rms when you are buying subs. And remember you have to be able to power the sub properly to get the full potential of the sub. And have the sub in the correct enclosure.
 

Gold Member
Username: Kaerfpl

Spencerport, NY USA

Post Number: 1272
Registered: Jun-06
2x ^
 

Bronze Member
Username: E3_overkill

Post Number: 14
Registered: Jul-11
damn thank guys i really do appreciate the info. And i have another question what is your guys opinion on bandpass enclosures ?
 

Bronze Member
Username: E3_overkill

Post Number: 15
Registered: Jul-11
And what are your opinions on the alpine type X cause a guy at my local car audio store suggested two 12 alpine type X's. what do you think of those? im sorry about asking all these questions.
 

Gold Member
Username: Kaerfpl

Spencerport, NY USA

Post Number: 1273
Registered: Jun-06
When the Alpine Type-X came out, everyone had high expectations for it, but in all reality, the Type-R's perform better.

Also, I personally don't deal with Bandpass enclosures. Just a simple "L" Ported box will do the trick.
 

Bronze Member
Username: E3_overkill

Post Number: 16
Registered: Jul-11
yeah that what i thought as well their wasn't a point in getting a bandpass box, but the guy at the car audio place insisted on a bandpass. so i was like whatever. one of my good friends has two 10 type X and bump hard he has two pdx 1000.1 running to both. so that probably way i like alpine so much cause those 10's are louds as hell.
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 153
Registered: May-09
About 10 db difference between a bad and a good enclosure?
 

Bronze Member
Username: E3_overkill

Post Number: 17
Registered: Jul-11
should i get the 2 ohm version or 4 ohm version ? and how do you know when you have the correct enclosure for your subs?
 

Gold Member
Username: Joebruce

Crescendo Audio FTMFW!!, AA Havoc 15 ... Your Mom FTW!!

Post Number: 3680
Registered: May-04
What version you want depends on what amp you are going with and what subs. If you get 2 subs and need the final load to be 1 then you need the dual 4ohm versions.

The correct enclosure will be one that is built to the specs of the subs. Just about every sub lists the reccomended specs for sealed and ported enclosures.
 

Bronze Member
Username: E3_overkill

Post Number: 18
Registered: Jul-11
yeah true true. i was wonder what would you guys think about two 15 inch kicker CVX and Hifonics Brutus BRZ1700.1 mono D. and what kind of box for that sealed or ported for two of those subs. and yeah i know im throwing something totally different into the mix ,bu i wanted to know what you guys think about those subs. are they pieces of junk?
 

Gold Member
Username: Joebruce

Crescendo Audio FTMFW!!, AA Havoc 15 ... Your Mom FTW!!

Post Number: 3681
Registered: May-04
I wouldnt go with the Keekers or a Hifonics amp. I think you should go with either 2 12" Alpine R dual 4ohm or the 2 12" Audioque SD2.5 duakl 4ohm and the MB Quart Onyx1500.1 amp.
 

Bronze Member
Username: E3_overkill

Post Number: 19
Registered: Jul-11
alright sick well thanks guys for all the help. i really do appreciate it.
 

Gold Member
Username: Joebruce

Crescendo Audio FTMFW!!, AA Havoc 15 ... Your Mom FTW!!

Post Number: 3682
Registered: May-04
Not a problem. Let us know what you decide to get and post some pics of the final install!!
 

Bronze Member
Username: E3_overkill

Post Number: 20
Registered: Jul-11
Ohhh yeah most definitely ill put up some picture of final install. And ill try to make a video as well. But ill havr to get a new battery first. Kinetic 1800 or 2000 watts. Cause my lights flash already cause i have the HID light amd they draw alot of power. So ill have to do that first. But thank yiu for all the help and info on the decision iys really appreciated.
 

Gold Member
Username: Joebruce

Crescendo Audio FTMFW!!, AA Havoc 15 ... Your Mom FTW!!

Post Number: 3683
Registered: May-04
Actually HIDs draw a lot less current than regular halogen bulbs. A new battery may help but a new HO alternator would be a better fix. Better yet,a HO alt AND a good battery would be your best solution.
 

Bronze Member
Username: E3_overkill

Post Number: 21
Registered: Jul-11
Yeah but alternator on my car are hell laaa expensive. Cuase i have a 98 benz. And the bolt parterns are different then normal alt. So i have to get a custom shell around all the coils so it well mount correctly. And im not to sure about that. These flash with the little sysyem i have in it now. It flashes wgen the A/C compressure kicks in. So i was going to get two batteries and wire them in series. Have does the system going off the kinetic and the car running off the other batteries.
 

Gold Member
Username: Wolf_hound

Phoenix, AZ

Post Number: 1418
Registered: Sep-05
My lights used to flash with just a little voltage drop, it was annoying but i got hid lights and the flashing went away lol.
 

Bronze Member
Username: E3_overkill

Post Number: 22
Registered: Jul-11
What do you guys think about two 12 jl w3v3 ? Or still stick with the alpjne type r's ? And my headlights still flash even when the A/C compressure kicks in. So i dont know what would help. I guy at the local car audio shop said add another battery and it shkuld help alot. So i dknt know if he just trying to get money or what. So yeah what do you guys think about jl w3v3 two 12's or alpine type r two 12's ?
 

Gold Member
Username: Kaerfpl

Spencerport, NY USA

Post Number: 1296
Registered: Jun-06
If you just throw another battery into any vehicle, it's going to add more stress on your current Alternator, and make it fail even faster.

Just perform the "Big 3" upgrade. Do it right the first time around or don't do it at all.
 

Bronze Member
Username: E3_overkill

Post Number: 26
Registered: Jul-11
Ok. And the big three are battert ground, alt to battery, and ground to engine block ? Is that what the big three are correct ? Or nah ?
 

Silver Member
Username: Alonzoub

Post Number: 253
Registered: Apr-10
Correct, and sometimes the stock ground on the chassis sucks, so make sure you get a good spot. Sand it clean, some even put petroleum jelly on the ground to keep it clean from debris and safe from rust.
 

Gold Member
Username: Somedonniedude

Illinois Braaap MX

Post Number: 3207
Registered: May-07
you're alt is already grounded to the engine block since it is bolted to it, so no extra wiring should be needed there (unless maybe it's on some kinda of crummy mount). If thats the case don't worry about grounding to engine, just ground it directly to the alternator casing.

Battery (-) <---> frame (or chassis if unibody)
engine block/alt casing <---> frame(unibody) or to battery.
Alternator output (+) <---> battery positive
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