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This amp ok to wire my subs?

 

Bronze Member
Username: Magnus28

Petawawa, ON Canada

Post Number: 18
Registered: Aug-11
Started a new thread because I returned the 600 watt dual 4/3/2 channel amp, and bought instead this amp.

http://www.walmart.ca/Automotive/Car-Audio-Sound-Accessories/Automotive-Amplifie rs/550-Watt-Amplifier

I want to wire both my 10" 450 watt Scosche woofers to my factory audio to provide extra bass.

http://www.walmart.ca/Automotive/Car-Audio-Sound-Accessories/Automotive-Subwoofe rs/Scosche-10-Sub-450-Max-Watts-150-Watts-RMS-Power


This amp will run stable @ 2 ohms in bridged mode.
my subs are rated at 4 ohms, so I figure if I wire both subs in parallel, then bridge them to the amp, and add a output converter, all would be good to go?

http://www.walmart.ca/Automotive/Car-Audio-Sound-Accessories/Automotive-Subwoofe rs/Scosche-10-Sub-450-Max-Watts-150-Watts-RMS-Power
 

Platinum Member
Username: Glasswolf

Columbia, South Carolina

Post Number: 14448
Registered: Dec-03
honestly I wouldn't buy anything from wal-mart that's audio related. not even a CD, considering they only sell the "family safe" versions of CDs.

scosche is as bad as dual when it comes to audio equipment.
 

Gold Member
Username: Van_man

Boston South, MA

Post Number: 5495
Registered: Mar-06
short anwser, yes.
long answer, no
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 137
Registered: May-09
Magnus28 that was a nice move, way nice, you can parallel your subs to 2 ohm now.

HU ----> BRIDGED AMP ----> SUBS IN PARALLEL

No manual to download so can't help you much from here. It should be easy though.

It has high level (speaker) inputs so you DON'T need the LOC.(or the stereo to mono converter since its integrated)

Those amps blow easily bridged so easy on the volume.or else.... I knew it existed on walmart.ca but couldn't recommend.
 

Gold Member
Username: Kaerfpl

Spencerport, NY USA

Post Number: 1250
Registered: Jun-06
After 15 minutes of gut wrenching google surfing, I was finally able to get what Scosche calls "specs" on the SA550.

110 Watts RMS x2 (2 Ohms)
220 Watts RMS Bridged (4 Ohms)

The thing that I find puzzling, is that there are no Specs on what the Watts RMS would be if it was "x2" at 4 Ohms? This makes me wonder if the amplifier is even stable handling two 4 Ohm loads? Also, keep in mind that this amplifier IS NOT stable at 2 Ohms Bridged.

With that said, the Scosche SW1004 Subwoofers are SVC 4 Ohm, 150 Watt RMS. You can't even wire both of these Subwoofers in Parallel on this amplifier without it overloading and failing instantly... The best thing I could suggest would just be to use one of those Subwoofers at the Bridged 4 Ohm load.

Overall, Scosche products are... crap. Not gonna lie. If you do a Google search on the Amplifier alone, nearly every search result is a link of people who bought this amplifier, and only lasted 1-2 months before it failed and died.

In all honesty, all I have to say is just take them back before you find yourself purchasing a new amplifier and subwoofer within' the next few months and spending more money than you originally needed to in the first place...
 

Silver Member
Username: Dloco486

Post Number: 183
Registered: Apr-11
dont buy a system from wal-mart ever. only thing u'ld be safe buying is their pioneer 4 way speakers everything else they sell dont buy
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 138
Registered: May-09
Magnus28, you have the manual (I hope) but your following statement seems wrong indeed:

"This amp will run stable @ 2 ohms in bridged mode"

So it seems that you can NOT parallel your subs for bridged mode usage.
 

Gold Member
Username: Joebruce

Crescendo Audio FTMFW!!, AA Havoc 15 ... Your Mom FTW!!

Post Number: 3668
Registered: May-04
The amp is fluckin PINK?!?!

lol
 

Bronze Member
Username: Magnus28

Petawawa, ON Canada

Post Number: 19
Registered: Aug-11
amp is blue, not pink.

right on back of the box says "low impedance stable at 2 ohm loads."

you got it backwards Joe S, it's 220 watts rms bridged at 4ohms, so each speaker would get a little more than 110 a piece. Actually, I opened 5 boxes at walmart and picked the one with the highest certified CMA wattage. most were 250-270, but I found a golden child at a certified 282 watts RMS! so 141 watts a side...


Joe Durkham,

Thanks man, you see NOOBS DO LISTEN.
i'm not worrying about blowing amps or speakers.. the guy at walmart SAID it was ok to do that, and hey it's walmart, if it blows i'll bring it back!

I can definitely parallel these subs together!
 

Gold Member
Username: Kaerfpl

Spencerport, NY USA

Post Number: 1254
Registered: Jun-06
magnus28, what are you talking about? You cannot create a bridged 4 Ohm load using both Subwoofers.

If you wire the Subwoofers in Parallel, you are going to create a 2 Ohm load, which the Scosche SA550 is unable to handle. If you wire the Subwoofer in Series, you will be creating an 8 Ohm load which once again, the Scosche SA550 cannot handle.

All because the box says "low impedance stable at 2 ohm loads", doesn't mean it can be bridged at 2 Ohms. The Scosche SA550 can go into a 2 Ohm load, but it is unstable in a Bridged 2 Ohm load, which is NOT RECOMMENDED.

The only way possible to use both Subwoofers, would be to wire them in Parallel to create a 2 Ohm load, but only use one channel on the amplifier. Doing this will assure a stable connection, but the amplifier will be putting out less than 70 Watts RMS to each Subwoofer and most likely fail after a few months....

Also, don't listen to people at Wal-Mart. They are not Car Audio Pro's and don't know what their talking about. Do some research next time before going out and buying and amplifier and subwoofer.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Magnus28

Petawawa, ON Canada

Post Number: 20
Registered: Aug-11
I made a typo.. I meant wire the subs parallel to create 2 ohms, and then bridge them in 2 ohm mode on the amp.

I don't care much about what the walmart guy said, he seemed very dumb, but I was using that in reference in case they wouldn't take the amp or speakers back. This guy "reccomended" this setup for my budget.

What I DO care about is that on the back of the box it says 2 ohm stable in bridge mode, So if the manufacturer says it's ok, then i'm gonna run it that way.
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 139
Registered: May-09
magnus28, there I can agree, if it blows you can always take it back (crank it up all the way to make this fast) After it blows get your money back and then if you want you could be provided here with better $80-$90 alternatives.

As before you got the amp if it says its ok then its ok but I can confirm that around the internet its specified to be 2 ohm stable only in non bridged mode.
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 140
Registered: May-09
Joe S, I am not clear what you mean when you say the amp can not handle an 8 ohm load.
 

Gold Member
Username: Kaerfpl

Spencerport, NY USA

Post Number: 1256
Registered: Jun-06
Come on Joe Durkham, use some common knowledge on this one. It's a Scosche product. If you wire this Amplifier into an 8 Ohm load, it may work and be stable, but the Watts it puts out would be so little, it's hardly worth using.

To magnus28, at this point, it seems like nothing I say is going to convince you to swap them back now for something better. Even though your going to wire the Amplifier into an unstable state, make sure that your Gain and other settings are set correctly. Wouldn't want to damage more than just your Amplifier/Subwoofers.
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 162
Registered: May-09
Joe S I was just wondering only about your statement not that I am not aware of what the results will be, anyways I would not wire this amp to 2 ohms in any way or form since it is notoriously unreliable regardless of how little power can put out.

Hope a reliable figure of the RMS power of this amp existed but I can tell you this it will be 3 dB less than a 4 ohm bridge.

3 db will not make that much of a terrible difference, besides those are Scosche subs I would not go with them to half of their RMS rating.

And yes if someone gifted me these things I would unwrap them and returned without even looking whats inside.

magnus28, I think that for the money you paid we could assemble a system 20 times as good. Get your money back even if that amp is really stable at 2 ohm bridged.
 

Gold Member
Username: Kaerfpl

Spencerport, NY USA

Post Number: 1283
Registered: Jun-06
Not to start any arguements or anything with you Joe Durkham, but the reason on why im a little on the edge of my chair is because of the following statement you made at the beginning of this thread;

"Magnus28 that was a nice move, way nice, you can parallel your subs to 2 ohm now."

Im not sure if you didn't look at the specs for any of the Scosche products listed or what, but that is just a foolish thing to say. Especially after posting after Glasswolf and Marc...
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 164
Registered: May-09
Yeah, he was previously trying to bridge a 4 channel bridgeable to 2 only amp into a single channel by connecting the subs to each other while connected to their respective channels, so getting an amp bridgeable to a single channel along with his statement that it was 2 ohm stable made me an optimist, anyhow I also stated that that I could not find the manual... I still cant find reliable specs for that amp..
 

Gold Member
Username: Kaerfpl

Spencerport, NY USA

Post Number: 1285
Registered: Jun-06
The thing you need to know, is there there are no reliable specs for the Schosche amplifier, lol. What I posted originally is what I could find after 15-30 minutes of searching.
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 165
Registered: May-09
Right Joe S, Schosche website now features different products no legacy products list, just like it never existed, only an email for support.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Magnus28

Petawawa, ON Canada

Post Number: 21
Registered: Aug-11
i'm keeping the amp,
gonna hook the subs up, if they sound like s#iT - i'll bring them back
 

Bronze Member
Username: Magnus28

Petawawa, ON Canada

Post Number: 22
Registered: Aug-11
Change of plan ;-)

I am a noob, but I DO listen...

upon all of your advise, I brought back the crappy Scosche Subs,

And I went into an Audio Shop, and I was going to buy a 10" Clarion that was rated 400 watts RMS for $100. I told the guy i'd think about it, and went to another Audio shop and told the guy I was broke and wanted something a little better for the same budget. Het told me he would do me a favor and sold me a display model that was just screwed in, but never hooked up. I managed to get a 10" Kicker that is rated @ 300 watts RMS. (4 ohm single coil)

So my plan is to keep the scosche 281 watt rms amp, and bridge the 2 channels in 4ohm to the 10" kicker. so I will have the full 281 watts pumping the kicker, and i'm gonna buy a top end LOC that has I think he said 4 something pre out? can't remember what he said it does, but he said it was like having a smaller garden hose, then replacing it with a larger garden hose to provide more wattage coming into the amp, and more going out to the speaker.

Did I do good? or should I have bought the clarion?
 

Gold Member
Username: Van_man

Boston South, MA

Post Number: 5497
Registered: Mar-06
Your on the righr track..
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 172
Registered: May-09
Magnus28, a Kicker sub, so much nicer no wonder, bridge the amp to a 4 ohm load Its also a good move.

Kicker >> clarion good choice.

I was just wondering, you have a 2 sub box, I am thinking that you have a 10" hole now, the sub box will not do its job with that hole unless the box has 2 separate chambers or you place something to tightly cover it.

I would have recommended to buy two 2 ohm and wire them in series for a 4 ohm load or two 8 ohm and wire them in parallel for the same 4 ohm load.

Your amp will not blow for improper loading but since those fail anyways your problems may not be over just yet, lets hope that most of those reports of failure are from misuse.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Magnus28

Petawawa, ON Canada

Post Number: 23
Registered: Aug-11
hey Joe!

I returned the sub box with the 2 10" holes, and bought on of those build it yourself kits that fits 1 10". I know it's not the greatest, but all I could find. The kit is made from 5/8" mdf, and capacity is 0.75 cubic feet. My only concern about that is the box is not square, it's tapered on the sides, and I hope there is enough air volume to produce decent sound.

The only thing left for me is to decide how to hook up the LOC.

I heard you could patch it in to the rear speakers, but i'm not sure if I have to remote patch into the factory unit, or the loc will detect input into the speakers and remote on. Do I need to get another adapter to tie the loc into my factory head unit?
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 174
Registered: May-09
Just guessing here you should have the Kicker C104 which is 150W RMS @ 4 ohm and it requires 1.0 cubuc feet minimum sealed enclosure, take a look:

Kicker C104 Subwoofer Specifications
Subwoofer Size 10"
Subwoofer Design Round / Circle
Main Cone Color Black
Voice Coil(s) Single
Impedance (per voice coil) 4 ohms
Peak Power Handling 300 watts
RMS Power Handling 150 watts
Woofer Composition Polymineral
Woofer Surround Ribbed Poly-Foam
Minimum Sealed Box Volume 1.0 cubic feet
Maximum Sealed Box Volume 2.4 cubic feet
Minimum Ported Box Volume 1.25 cubic feet
Maximum Ported Box Volume 1.75 cubic feet
Sensitivity 87.3 dB
Frequency Response 30 - 500 Hz
Xmax (millimeters) 9.76 mm
Top Mount Depth 4-13/16"
Shallow Mount Installation N/A
Cutout Diameter 9-1/4"

As for the LOC you don't really need it because its integrated into the amp BUT maybe will do a better job than the built in one AND if you later decided to change the amp you wont need to touch anything and the remote on signal comes handy so no problems there

It would be helpful to know the model/brand here but if it has a remote on cable you just wire the into the amp.

You can connect the LOC from any pair of speakers provided that its a stereo pair so one left speaker one right, you can choose to do that near the HU or near the speakers the only difference is that you will have to run the cables differently for example near the HU you will have to run a RCA and the remote on all the way to the back.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Magnus28

Petawawa, ON Canada

Post Number: 24
Registered: Aug-11
that's the sub joe.

little disappointed that the guy at the shop said it was 300 watts rms, not peak power , might bring it back,.

wouldn't the amp bridged in mono mode send too much juice to the sub? it says 150 watts max rms on the sub specs. I would be sending it 281 watts (CSA tested rms)

the amp model is scosche SA550 amp.
some details on it here:

2-channel power amplifier, 550 watts max peak power Low impedence 2 Ohm load capability (in stereo) Bridgeable to mono Multi-mode capability Selectable high pass and low pass elelctronic crossover Selectable bass boost Low voltage warning LED Overload warning LED Line level and speaker level inputs Soft start turn-on and turn-off Over heating and short circuit protection Adjustable gain control MOSFET power switching transistors Extruded aluminum heatsink & ABS coverplate. 550 watts maximum. 110 watts x 2-channel RMS output power (2 Ohms). 220-watt bridged RMS, output power (4 Ohms). Bridged to mono. Has speaker level inputs, over-heating and short circuit protection.
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 180
Registered: May-09
Ok so you have 2 issues:

Your enclosure should be 1.0 cubic feet minimum and you say yours is 0.75 cubic feet so short for that sub.

The amp overpowers the sub, well if you are to believe those specs then yes, in which case you just lower the gain but then certainly some reserve power will be lost.

The kicker is a good sub but certainly a 300W would be louder, if you use a proper ported box you can get it to sound the same as if it were a 300 watt in a sealed enclosure.

So you have a number of options, place it in a proper enclosure and settle with the power it will deliver at 150W or rethink your speakers again.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Magnus28

Petawawa, ON Canada

Post Number: 25
Registered: Aug-11
this is the output converter I will be using Joe...

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_33576_Cache-CLOC-D.html
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 183
Registered: May-09
Looks nice and pricey but one should start liking the good stuff somewhere so if you like it go for it, it will work well even with much better equipment than what you currently have.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Magnus28

Petawawa, ON Canada

Post Number: 26
Registered: Aug-11
... ahh speaking of equipment.. I brought it back ALL of it.

I'm working on some better gear through the local buy and sell classifieds here.

will let you know what I pick up.

If I don't manage to get a decent sub, I know I can buy a 900 watt (peak) Clarion that seems pretty heavy in weight and good quality. it's around 400 watts RMS i suppose. 10" single coil...

a guy wants to sell me a 4 channel amp that's made by Kaption. He says its rated around 500 watts.

don't know the model number....

will keep you posted
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 187
Registered: May-09
Getting your money back was the best thing to do.

For an amp I would recommend a monoblock (single channel) 2 ohm stable or better yet 1 ohm stable, and check the RMS watts at each impedance.

For speakers maybe a single 12" will give you better bottom end but if you want 10"s that can also work, dual voice coils will let you wire in different ways. Careful with the RMS watts and take care that total impedance matches the minimum stable impedance the amp can provide.

Ask around before buying anything. Maybe you can get away with something good in used condition.

If you state a budget here we can provide you with some suggestions as well.
 

Gold Member
Username: Kaerfpl

Spencerport, NY USA

Post Number: 1297
Registered: Jun-06
Steer clear of Kaption Audio. It's a Canadian made product, and have very cheaply produced products. Odds are it will break within a few months of use...

The only Subwoofer that Clarion makes around those specs is the Clarion WG2510. It's rated for 300 Watts RMS, and has a 4 Ohm SVC. Overall, I wouldn't even clarify this as an entry level Subwoofer. For $50 brand new, there's so much better products out there that could be purchased in its place.

I think before you decide to purchase any new or used equipment, I would suggest posting the Brand and Model of the products here first for review.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Magnus28

Petawawa, ON Canada

Post Number: 27
Registered: Aug-11
guy selling the Kaption stopped resonding to my requests.

another guy wants to sell me a mtx sub and a mtx amp and all wiring for $150

here's all I could find on the sub:


http://www.usedpei.com/classified-ad/MTX-Thunder-TC712-12in-_14100266

and the amp:

http://outlet.crutchfield.com/p_236TC4001/MTX-Thunder-TC4001.html

seems like a deal for 150 bones
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 201
Registered: May-09
No problems with the amp its just that it needs to get a total 2 ohm impedance to get to 400W RMS

No reliable specs on the sub but it has to be dual 4 ohm voice coils to work at 400W

Also the whole thing seems cheap so make sure that is not repaired stuff or something like that.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Magnus28

Petawawa, ON Canada

Post Number: 28
Registered: Aug-11
well if I don't here from him by tomorrow Joe.. I will be looking on Ebay for something a little better.
 

Gold Member
Username: Kaerfpl

Spencerport, NY USA

Post Number: 1308
Registered: Jun-06
I have never personally used the Subwoofer before, but I did have that same Amplifier a few years back. $150 for both seems like a decent deal. If the condition of both items are in good condition, I say go for it.

You can wire the DVC 4 Ohm MTX Subwoofer in Parallel to create a 2 Ohm load which will allow the MTX Thunder TC4001 to put out the 400 Watts RMS it needs.
 

Gold Member
Username: Kaerfpl

Spencerport, NY USA

Post Number: 1309
Registered: Jun-06
Actually, the status of that listing is marked as "SOLD", so I doubt you'll be hearing anything back.

However, if you can get the Amplifier still, below are some Subwoofers you could use on it for $75:

Kicker C124:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_8466_Kicker-C124-07C124.html

RE Audio REX12:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_27302_RE-Audio-REX12.html

JL Audio 12WX-4:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_26963_JL-Audio-12WX-4.html

If you can't get the Amplifier anymore, the next best Amplifier for under $100 is going to be the MB Quart FX1.400. Has the same specs as the MTX Thunder TC4001.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_33006_MB-Quart-FX1.400.html

If you want to just purchase something off of Ebay, here is what I would recommend looking into:

2 Rockford Fosgate 12" P1's:
http://cgi.ebay.com/12-RockfordFosgate-Subwoofers-/170679398519?pt=Car_Subwoofer s_Enclosures&hash=item27bd48f077

KICKER ZX300.1:
http://cgi.ebay.com/KICKER-ZX300-1-CLASS-D-SUBWOOFER-AMPLIFIER-300W-SUB-/2608324 48850?pt=Car_Amplifiers&hash=item3cbad35152
 

Bronze Member
Username: Magnus28

Petawawa, ON Canada

Post Number: 29
Registered: Aug-11
Hey Joe(s)!

I just bought the mtx sub and amp.

they looked in really good - almost new condition. Sub was mounted in a box already.....

Now the only question is can I somehow run the sub off of 2 ohm to get full power?

hard to find anything on this sub.. according to the link I provided above, it says its a single voice coil, but the impedance is dual 4ohms... Is this an oxymoron? I thought dual 4ohm meant it had dual voice coils ?

If this is the case, I can break into the sealed box and wire the voice coils together into 2ohm ...

what do you think about this guys?

I don't want to break into the box If we can be 90% sure it's a single voice coil and can't be wired into 2 ohm
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 202
Registered: May-09
If that stuff works well the oxymoron is the guy who sold it to you specially considering that the enclosure is included. MTX makes really neat SPL gear.

Its easy to check impedance from the box terminals with a $10 or so multimeter.

I would just focus on the install for now (you still need a LOC and an amp wiring kit). Once the install is done I would take a listen, you see that gear kicks hard, if you are not happy then I would seek to rewire the sub if possible.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Magnus28

Petawawa, ON Canada

Post Number: 30
Registered: Aug-11
I have an amp wiring kit Joe, and check the link near the top of the page, I bought a high-end Cache Clock-D output converter.

might just take a phiips screwdriver and take a peak inside the sub box first to see If I see 2 or single voice coil.

i'll update you on the install..

thx again guys for the input and help!
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 203
Registered: May-09
Ok your wiring kit should be ideally 4AWG for that amp, and yes that LOC you provided a link for is very good.

I am going to take a guess about the sub: it will be a 4 ohm SVC.

About the install just remember to disconnect the battery before proceeding.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Magnus28

Petawawa, ON Canada

Post Number: 31
Registered: Aug-11
took a look at the sub, you're right, 4 ohm single coil....

gonna use 8AWG for the amp.. trust me - it's plenty. I would even go 10 gauge with that low amperage If 8 wasn't readily available. I've seen PLENTY of setups alot more wattage than me running off of 8 Gauge.

Gonna buy the Scosche Amp wiring kit, rated up to 680 watts for $25 at walmart.

I personally know 2 people use this in there car, and no complaints.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Scosche-680W-8-Gauge-Wiring-Kit-for-Single-Amps/146671 22

guy I bought it off had the same gauge wires hooked up to the amp, his brand of wires were monster cables. I compared wires side by side, and guess what? no difference whatsoever!

I'm gonna take your advise on just wiring the sub to the amp as is Joe. It will only be getting 200 watts rms, but should be enough, and i'll see how it sounds!
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 204
Registered: May-09
Magnus28, no prob using 8AWG its just that great bass likes very thick wires. It cant hurt if its a matter of $5 but again 8AWG can do and its easier to handle.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Magnus28

Petawawa, ON Canada

Post Number: 32
Registered: Aug-11
Help! Lol. Midway through my install.. got the LOC patched into rear left/right speakers.

According to the manual it says you need to connect the remote in on the LOC from the head unit/remote wire. then, it says to connect the remote out going to the amp..

I thought I didn't have to touch the HU at all!? It says that when the remote out detects input signal on the wires - it sends a signal to the amp to turn it on..

If that's the case, why is there a remote "IN" on the LOC?

really don't want to rip out the deck

thx!
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 205
Registered: May-09
Any line that turns to +12 volt when your car is on will do, no need to get near the HU. Look for a fuse box on the front of your car's cabin.

The $10 multimeter will help you with that sort of thing, if you apply the wrong signal to the LOC, it will malfunction.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Magnus28

Petawawa, ON Canada

Post Number: 33
Registered: Aug-11
yes, but to I run this +12 volt wire to the remote "IN" on the LOC?
and the remote "Out" to the amp?

in the wiring diagram of the LOC it shows nothing hooked up to the +12 volt, remote in , and remote out
 

Bronze Member
Username: Magnus28

Petawawa, ON Canada

Post Number: 34
Registered: Aug-11
additional info:

The LOC has 4 tiny connections on the left side:

remote In
remote Out
Ground
+12V

diagram doesn't show anything hooked up to these...

I have the right panel hooked up with 4 wires"
-rear right +
-rear right -
-rear left +
-rear left -


8 AWG power is run to the amp (not hooked to the battery yet though)

8 AWG ground is hooked from the amp to a bolt on the chasis.

RCA is hooked from the LOC to the back of the AMP

Front of amp has + and - speaker wires from channel 1 to the sub

do i need to provide +12v power to LOC?
do I need to ground and hook up both "in" and "out" on the remote?

one last thing:

the remote in and out as well as the +12v and GND on the LOC are TINY! meant for very small wires 16-18 gauge.

the remote on my amp is huge 4-8 Gauge.

Thx in advance
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 206
Registered: May-09
OK so I got the manual, yes it says just to connect the remote out of the LOC to the remote in on the amp: I guess that it figures out by itself when to turn on based on the audio signal coming from the speakers.

Also check that the polarity of the cables going into the LOC match the one on the speakers. This connections should be very solid like soldered or something like that.
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 207
Registered: May-09
WOW let me process all that, first off the negative 8AWG that you bolted needs to be bare metal to bare metal if you have any paint, dirt or whatever you are not good. Also it has to be a very solid connection.

The LOC needs ground and +12V since it can not take 8 AWG just connect those to the amp terminals, the remotes as in my previous post (no problem the remote on the amp being big). The RCAs are ok as you wired.

The inline fuse on the red 8 AWG goes near the battery not near the amp.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Magnus28

Petawawa, ON Canada

Post Number: 35
Registered: Aug-11
thx Joe...

So LOC doesn't need power from anywhere?

This is exactly what it says in my manual:

REMOTE IN
This cache unit is turned on by applyinf +12 VDC to the remote turn-on terminal. This terminal should be connected to the remote lead from the car stereo. This remote lead from the source unit will trigger a +12V output only when the car stereo is turned on.

REMOTE OUT
This cache unit is equipped with a signal sensing circuit that can detect a signal on its input and provide a +12V output signal to turn on an aftermarket amplifier. Connect this to the remote terminal on an aftermarket amplifier.

So what's the verdict? Obviously, I need to connect remote out on LOC to the remote IN on the amp... But what about the remote IN on the LOC and the Power and GND? LOC has to have power in order to turn on the sensing circuit right?


as of now everything is hooked up except the remote wire, and possibly power and GND to the LOC
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 209
Registered: May-09
Relax a little man, as in my previous posts the LOC needs to be connected both to +12 and to ground, wire the +12V on the LOC to the +12 on the amp, the ground on the LOC to the ground on the amp

The remote in on the LOC disconnected the remote out on the LOC to the remote in on the amp.
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 210
Registered: May-09
Take a look:

Upload
 

Bronze Member
Username: Magnus28

Petawawa, ON Canada

Post Number: 36
Registered: Aug-11
I am relaxed.. he bold was just to denote the manual.

ok.... *whew* Let me see if I got this correct...

- I leave alone the remote in on the LOC, nothing gets connected to it.
- the remote out on the LOC goes to the remote on the amp (done).
- the +12V coming from the battery to the amp gets a wire patched on it, and goes to the +12v on the LOC

-the ground wire coming from the amp gets a wire patched on it. ( the other end of the ground is already fixed to a bolt on the chassis).


this +12V power going from the amp to the LOC.. is gonna have to be 16 AWG, cause the terminal that is on the LOC is that small. So I patch 2 lengths of 16 AWG wire 1 from the 8 AWG power and 1 from the 8 AWG ground, then the other ends get patched into the LOC?

TY
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 211
Registered: May-09
You just wire both the +12 8AWG and the +12 LOC together INTO the amp's +12 terminal.

You just wire both the GROUND 8AWG and the GROUND LOC together INTO the amp's GROUND terminal.

Don't make any connections away, only into the amps terminals.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Magnus28

Petawawa, ON Canada

Post Number: 37
Registered: Aug-11
oki doki..

gonna do that now...
 

Bronze Member
Username: Magnus28

Petawawa, ON Canada

Post Number: 39
Registered: Aug-11
well good news and bad news, but mostly bad.

I did what you said, and LOC and AMP came on.. both power lights came on the respective units.

Nothing out of the sub - not even a movement.

I double checked to make sure all the polarities and wiring was correct.

then I went in and turned on my radio, and all of a sudden my CD player doesn't work!!! It won't eject cd's or change to the next one. The FM/AM works fine, and the AUX button works fine. I can still play MP3's from my mp3 player.

seems like the wire going to my HU that turns the CD player in CD mode and ejects the discs don't work anymore.

Can't figure out why the sub doesn't work.. maybe it's blown...

power is there on the amp and LOC.

as soon as I connected the power cable to the positive terminal, then put the fuse in.. my CD player stopped working..

i'm gonna have to bring this into an audio shop to see if I can get this looked into..

Thx for the help Joe anyway,

I wouldn't have gotten this far without you!

and probably saved me a bunch on install costs..
 

Bronze Member
Username: Magnus28

Petawawa, ON Canada

Post Number: 40
Registered: Aug-11
one more thing I forgot to mention!

When it was all hooked up, when I shut the car off the amp and loc stayed on.. I waited even 5 minutes, and it was still on!

i'm guessing the remote "IN" has to be hooked up to swith the loc off which in turn will turn off the amp.
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 212
Registered: May-09
I will have an answer for all those problems but the cd not working and the rest of the HU working.

If you connect the sub for a second to a small say 9v battery and it pops then the sub works. Maybe it got disconnected from the box terminals when you opened it

You also can disconnect the negative terminal of the battery for a few minutes an then reconnect to reset the electronics on the HU.

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