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Subs in single cab chevy

 

New member
Username: Hackman270

Post Number: 1
Registered: Nov-10
is it possible to run 4 tens in a single cab chevy and sound real good and loud. lmk everyone
 

Platinum Member
Username: Glasswolf

Post Number: 14072
Registered: Dec-03
In a single cab you're just not going to get outstanding output without possibly putting in bucket seats and using a center structure box instead of going beind the seats. trucks, especially single cabs, have a big problem with "trunk bass" where the cabin of the truck with the windows up, acts as a secondary enclosure to the subs, causing the bass to be very muted when the cab is sealed up, and output increases substantially when the windows are cracked or down. Very common problem with sealed and ported boxes both.
Single cab trucks just aren't made for lots of bass unless you do a blow-through enclosure in the bed, or put a big box in the bed, put a cap on the bed of the truck, and take out the rear window of the cab and seal the opening between cab and bed with something like a bicycle tire innertube inflated like a weather seal, or something similar.
 

New member
Username: Canaanwhite

Monroe, Louisiana USA

Post Number: 10
Registered: Nov-10
you can run 4 of the new Kicker round Solo Classic 10s in a single cab truck ...
 

Bronze Member
Username: Lord_huggington

Ontario Canada

Post Number: 38
Registered: Oct-10
You can but they'd have to be sealed, shallow drivers. It would be better if you had bucket seats and used one good ported 12 or 2 sealed 10's between them.

For a sealed 10 look at the Eclipse SW8010 / 700W RMS / 86dB sensitivity / $140? each @ Sonicelectronics) / 1.25 cubes = Q .5x / FC @ 29hz... something like that. Great sub for lots of bottom end in a small box. When you seal most 10's, they drop off at -12dB/octave at around 55hz so you don't get much bottom end out of them unless they have a reeeally low Q, which isn't exactly musical.
 

New member
Username: Hackman270

Post Number: 2
Registered: Nov-10
so whats my best option then exactly
 

Gold Member
Username: Southernrebel

Monroe, Louisiana Team Audible...

Post Number: 8336
Registered: Mar-04
What year is your truck?
99+ trunks have more room to work with...iirc.

And how tall are you?
Depending on how much you are willing to move the seat forward, the bigger you can build.

I usually try to stay w/ 1-12, 2-10's or 2-8's (any of those ported) in chevy single cabs.
 

Gold Member
Username: Gcs8

Atlanta, Ga

Post Number: 1574
Registered: Sep-09
single 12" most likely.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Lord_huggington

Ontario Canada

Post Number: 41
Registered: Oct-10
Hard to answer without knowing your preferences.

I would do bucket seats and have either setup between them:

Lows - 2 Eclipse SW8210 (12") in 3 cubes sealed on 3000W
or
SQL - Fi BTL in 2.5 cubes @ 35hz on 3000W
 

New member
Username: Hackman270

Post Number: 3
Registered: Nov-10
im 6 foot 3. currently have a bench seat. truck is a 96 model chevy
 

Bronze Member
Username: Canaanwhite

Monroe, Louisiana USA

Post Number: 26
Registered: Nov-10
You nay want to try Shallow mount subs like the shallow Alpine Type R's
 

New member
Username: Hackman270

Post Number: 4
Registered: Nov-10
dont like alpine much
 

Bronze Member
Username: Canaanwhite

Monroe, Louisiana USA

Post Number: 31
Registered: Nov-10
jL makes some nice shallow subs...so do many other companies like RE, Earthquake, RF, Kenwood, Clarion , Pioneer and more
 

Gold Member
Username: Southernrebel

Monroe, Louisiana Team Audible...

Post Number: 8339
Registered: Mar-04
I hate to agree w/ .....um...myself...but the new shallow-ish R's are not bad subs.



Do us all a favor OP.
Go out to your truck w/ a tape measure and get some measurements. Put the seat in a comfortable position (if you can give of a notch or 2 on the seat, that will help alot) and measure...

bottom of seat to back wall
bottom of plastic on back wall to seat
floor to bottom of plastic panel
width from drivers side plastic to passenger along back wall.

That will give us all a better idea of what room you are working with, and what sub(s) will work for you.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Canaanwhite

Monroe, Louisiana USA

Post Number: 38
Registered: Nov-10
If you take the measurements like I said we can figure out a good sub to fit your needs
 

Bronze Member
Username: Lord_huggington

Ontario Canada

Post Number: 42
Registered: Oct-10
uhhh troll much?
 

New member
Username: Hackman270

Post Number: 5
Registered: Nov-10
i have had a box that was 8 1/2 on bottom depth and 5 on top depth. 62 from side to side, 17 inches from bottom to top and it wasnt uncomfortable really
 

New member
Username: Hackman270

Post Number: 6
Registered: Nov-10
i know yall dont recoomend it but i wanna do somethin ported behind my seat
 

New member
Username: Hackman270

Post Number: 7
Registered: Nov-10
Well thanks to the RE enclosure calculator i have my new box design for what i need. ported baby!!!! not dissin shallows but i need a lil more power than that!!!!
 

Bronze Member
Username: Makinblak

Post Number: 14
Registered: Oct-10
That's what she said
 

New member
Username: Hackman270

Post Number: 8
Registered: Nov-10
lmao thats awesome!!! i just thought bout that
 

Bronze Member
Username: Lord_huggington

Ontario Canada

Post Number: 46
Registered: Oct-10
The RE calculator is pretty off.

You could cut a hole in the middle of the bench seat to house a magnet (like a BTL 12). Without needing to account for the driver displacement or mounting depth, you could proooobably fit it in 2-2.5 cubes... ? That'd be sweet.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Lord_huggington

Ontario Canada

Post Number: 47
Registered: Oct-10
If it were me, I would get thin bucket seats and do a half-wall (stacked 15's?) with everything pointed to the rear... just to see what that'd be like.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Hackman270

Post Number: 11
Registered: Nov-10
I like the calculator. not sure how its off simply because ive made some good boxes by using it.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Lord_huggington

Ontario Canada

Post Number: 48
Registered: Oct-10
When you calculate the long way, you get more accurate calculations. The RE calc is inaccurate for three reasons: the end correction (for 1 outer wall as a port wall) is wrong, it doesn't account for driver displacement, and it doesn't allow for a shorter port length without needing to change the box depth.

With a slot port that uses an outer wall as part of the port wall, its physical port length will behave as if it is +half of the port width. The RE calc does measure the port length as +half of the port width but it's still wrong. 1" thick, port width 6", box depth 30" - it does say 33" port length but why is it wrong? The end correction is wrong.

Driver displacement doesn't matter too much - but holy shizzle, that was a slip. How easy would it have been to do that?

You want a calculator that doesn't give different port lengths when the port width & height are switched (carstereos.com) - this means it doesn't use an end correction, and you do want to do the end correction yourself, just so you know what you're getting (it's not like it's stated, and it's more than just "+half of the port width").

Whatever the 12 volts' slot port calculator states is where you want the center line port length measured, and after an end correction because that calc doesn't refer to the physical port length. It doesn't "know" what you're working with so it calculates for what it does know - the end of the equation.

It may be off by as much as 5 HZ. It's a problem with SPL designs, where the goal is to have minimum cone travel so it can take lots of power. Combined with lots of port area, the driver can unload easily so an accurate tune is needed. Most people tune below the burp frequency for this reason, and because of the acoustics of the car and what not, the loudest tune will obviously be different than what a calculator states.

If you want to test the calculators, use one driver in two different boxes with roughly the same dimensions, use the same port area and air space, and use the two different port lengths. Tune both boxes to the same frequency, and then burp that frequency. Technically, the calculator/box that allows for lesser cone travel at the burped frequency is more accurate.

The person who designed the RE calc used their own opinion (based on real world experience) of how far off any other calculator was. All math aside, you shouldn't do that.

If they were accurate, they'd give the same numbers.
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