Voltage issues!!

 

New member
Username: Pk_kustomz

Post Number: 1
Registered: May-10
i have a 92 chevy xcab with two 12" kicker l7s and a jl1000/1. i also have jl comps and a jl 500/4. i have 2 batteries, one up front and one tucked away in the back. i also have a 1.5f cap. i did the "BIG 3" already using 0g. the batterys are yellow tops. before i just had my alternator rebuilt "stock delco cs-130" when the subs hit the volts would drop below 12 volts more like 11! so i just had the alternator done to 220volts 140@idle hd specs. it did nothing for me..... if not made it worse. so the shop has the alternator back and are rebuilding it the second time.

i had this exact system in my 99 chevy blazer "stock alt.", minus the cap. .....im at a loss ive redid every ground on the truck, every positive cable. the only difference is the capacitor. any ideas???


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Platinum Member
Username: Glasswolf

Post Number: 13673
Registered: Dec-03
have the yellow tops tested under load. optima makes pretty crappy batteries, and the yellow tops tend to fail quite a bit. I know people who go through 2 or 3 every year.
The capacitor is doing nothing for you, but it looks pretty.
the 220A alternator should do the job, but I would use a high CCA battery under the hood as a starter battery and a deep cycle like an XS or Kinetik as the audio battery on a battery isolator to separate it from the car's ignition system.

are the gains on the amps set properly to match the head unit's line voltage?
 

Gold Member
Username: Illuminator

USA

Post Number: 5151
Registered: Apr-05

quote:

optima makes pretty crappy batteries, and the yellow tops tend to fail quite a bit. I know people who go through 2 or 3 every year.




Heh, I always knew they were overpriced and overrated, but I had no idea they were made so poorly.
 

Platinum Member
Username: Glasswolf

Post Number: 13692
Registered: Dec-03
Eh, I like the technology of Optima really, but they seem to have serious reliability issues.
Some people never have a problem, others seem to go through a lot of them, and frequently. It may be as simple as a QA issue, or poor manufacturing methods. I'm not honestly sure.

Hey Jexx, how do you do the horizontal rule and quote thing on here? I've not seen a quote function on this forum software.
 

Gold Member
Username: Illuminator

USA

Post Number: 5155
Registered: Apr-05
It's ironic too, considering the selling point is how durable they are...

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without the space between the backwards slash and "quote" (similar to the other html coding on this forum).
 

New member
Username: Pk_kustomz

Post Number: 2
Registered: May-10
got a 1080 cca battery under the hood as of today, still no atlernator back yet. i've came to the conclusion that the yellow top in the back took a crap i wouldve never guessed seein how theyre not that old. so that would mean the alt was trying to charge the bum battery??? also in the back i have the yellow top grounded to the chassis with 0g then from the same grounding point to the frame. then i have the 1000/1, 500/4, and the cap grounded to the battery.....the reason is because thats how a repidable stereo shop did it in my blazer, shouldnt i ground everything to the chassis seperately? and i should throw the cap in the garbage.... lol right? thanks for the info like i said who would think to load test a newer yellow top?
 

Platinum Member
Username: Glasswolf

Post Number: 13700
Registered: Dec-03
well the cap doesn't hurt anything. makes a nice AC filter, but it just doesn't act like a "super fast battery" like they want you to believe.
your ground points are probably fine, but I would take the batteries to a loal advance or autozone and get them tested under load to see if they hold a charge.
it's a different process from testing with a simple DMM.
they have a machine that presents a full load to the battery to see if it buckles under pressure, so to speak.

free test.
 

New member
Username: Pk_kustomz

Post Number: 4
Registered: May-10
ok i had ALOT of work to do on the truck this weekend but my batterys were fine. i put a 375 amp draw on them for 10 seconds and they didint drop below 12 VOLTS. so heres the thing. i had the subs wired at 4ohm, just for the heck of it i wired them at 1ohm, that solves my voltage drop??? they slam louder than my blazer. ok with no voltage drop now the subs will randomly pop.....gains are turned down not really pushing the subs to there max. i may have to run it to a stereo shop? just figured if its something stupid i can do ill do it. i shouldve wired them at 1 ohm from the get but i called the audio place and they said you could absolutely not wiring my set up at 1ohm "even tho thats how they had it in my blazer". any help is much appreciated thank you
 

Platinum Member
Username: Glasswolf

Post Number: 13735
Registered: Dec-03
is the popping at pwoer on or off, or random?
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