Like

Build a Box today - need help asap thanks!! (designs )

 

Bronze Member
Username: C0hpl

Post Number: 31
Registered: Aug-09
Hey guys!

I've decided im going to build a new box today.. within the next 4 hours or so..

It's going to be for a RE SE 12" 4 OHM, on a JBL ~700RMS..

I want it to be a big ported box, made specifically for the lows..

I'm thinking 30-32 HZ tuning..

some of my dimensions i just took of my trunk / trunk space..

*MAX*:
Height: 14.5"
Width: 34"
Depth: 25-30" ( 30" is available, but i would prefer it to be <25")

Please let me know what diagrams / wood cuts you guys can come up with.. im probably going to be going to home depot so they can cut my stuff etc etc as i dont really have any tools to cut wood..

What i have: $$, screws, screw driver (electric gun). I think im going to buy some liquid nails so i can seal it in each corner.. i dont have any clamps, so thats why i am just going to screw a bunch of screws into it to keep it all together, and seal it off with the liquid nails

thanks a lot for your help guys!!
 

Gold Member
Username: Delsole

Post Number: 1528
Registered: Feb-05
I also in the process of gathering info on building a box so im probably not the one to tell you how but i will say home depot does not always make the best cuts. In fact i believe they don't guarantee accuracy at all.
 

Silver Member
Username: Jones82joshua

Yankton, SD USA

Post Number: 119
Registered: Sep-07
http://www.reaudio.com/speaker_box/LPort_Box_Calc.html
 

Platinum Member
Username: Rovin

1 15 = 152.5 DBs ...Trinidad & T...

Post Number: 16294
Registered: Jul-05
if ur looking for specs then anywhere between 2-2.25cuft with about 12-14 square inches of port for each cuft of vol ...tuned around 32-33hz


i wont really recommend using liquid nails unless its a heavy duty sub or for competition use , my reason is its very messy to work with & if u get it on ur hands if ur not using gloves then good luck trying to get it off , also u cannot easily wipe off any that oozes out since its very sticky\messy , so if any is squeezed out during assembly it might be better to let it dry over night & then scrape it off with a putty knife

i rec good ol wood glue some of which are water based so its easy to clean up with a wet rag & to wash any off ur hands ....
 

Gold Member
Username: Southernrebel

Monroe, Louisiana Team Audible...

Post Number: 8035
Registered: Mar-04
I would recommend just using wood glue. I use titebond II, I also use it to seal the corners, just run a bead of glue around the inside of the box just like you would caulk. Also, don't put any screws closer than 3" from the corners of the wood. Space them ~4" apart also.

I'll throw you a design together, gimme a min.
 

Gold Member
Username: Southernrebel

Monroe, Louisiana Team Audible...

Post Number: 8036
Registered: Mar-04
cut list:
2) 31.5 x 15.25
1) 31.5 x 13
2) 28.5 x 13 (baffles)
2) 10.75 x 13
1) 13 x 13
1) 13 x 14.5

2.3cuft tuned to ~33hz
External dimensions: 14.5t x 31.5w x 15.25d (doubled baffle)
Port will be 13" x 2.25"

Upload
 

Bronze Member
Username: C0hpl

Post Number: 32
Registered: Aug-09
Thank you very much for the quick reponses guys..

2 quick questions..

#1) What type of nail/screw should i get? (type.. lenght.. etc.)

#2) I will buy some wood glue instead of the liquid nails... should i put the glue in between the pieces of wood im sticking together? or should i just put it in the corners to seal it?

Let me know what design you come up with Canaan

thanks everyone!!
 

Bronze Member
Username: C0hpl

Post Number: 33
Registered: Aug-09
That looks really complicated haha. i can do it though..

Are the baffles required ?
 

Platinum Member
Username: Rovin

1 15 = 152.5 DBs ...Trinidad & T...

Post Number: 16296
Registered: Jul-05
u cannot ask for a better plan than what canaan posted - excellent job

no nails - 2" course threaded drywall screws spaced about 4-5" apart , u may have to predrill to prevent splitting (will be easier to predrill b4 u apply the glue) , some mdf like the trupan brand sometimes accept screws without splitting but thats if ur lucky

apply the glue between each wood joint b4 u screw it together & then also apply some glue in the joint after u assemble it ....
 

Gold Member
Username: Dustin3

Box Designer & Builder...Dustin

Post Number: 5586
Registered: Oct-05
I agree with everyone else. Use titebond II, use it to also seal the corners, or you can just buy some cheap DAP silicone for a couple bucks. I would go with 1 5/8" screws or 2" would be okay too, make sure they are coarse thread drywall screws. You want to seal all of the inside of the box with the glue, so run a small bead along each corner in the box after you assemble it, then take your finger and swipe across the bead.
 

Gold Member
Username: Solobaric4life

Post Number: 1002
Registered: Jan-07
i used to use original titebond, now i use titebond lll ultimate, and i also use that DAP silicone too.


"Are the baffles required ?"

i always use DB
 

Platinum Member
Username: Rovin

1 15 = 152.5 DBs ...Trinidad & T...

Post Number: 16314
Registered: Jul-05
i wonder how this build went ? ...
« Previous Thread | Next Thread »

Facebook

Shop Related Deals

Directory

Main Forums

Today's Posts

Forum Help

Follow Us