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13.5 W7 with Kicker zx1500.1 is this okay??

 

Bronze Member
Username: C0hpl

Post Number: 16
Registered: Aug-09
Hey guys.. can i use the kicker with the JL? How should i wire it? What settings on the Kicker amp should i set it to?

I have a JL Audio 13.5" W7
Kicker zx1500.1
stock head unit - (line out converter)
4 gauge power wire
6 gauge ground wire

The last amp i had broke/fried within 2 hours of being in my car, i have a BLACK 2009 honda civic coupe... i live in florida... it gets VERY HOT, VERY FAST..

im afraid im going to melt my new kicker 1500.1 if i play my W7.

Before i even turn on my car / amp, i check to see how hot the amp is just from sitting in my car and it nearly burns my hand its so hot.

so if i start to pound my W7 and the kicker is already hot before hand, im afraid the kicker is gonna melt..

What can i do?

I am going to buy one of those reflector mirror things for the front wind shield of my car, but the amp is still going to get hot..

i need to cool down the amp.. but its all the way in my trunk..

i put down my windows / put the A/C on and it cools down my car, but its not isolated to the amp, so it doesnt cool it down a lot..

please can you guys help me?

Also, is a 2008 kicker 1500.1 an okay amp for my 13.5 W7? My friend said i cant go past 1/4 gain or it will blow my W7.. so im just keeping it low for now.

Also, on the amp, it had a knob for "Cross over" in Hertz. from 50-200 i think.. idk what it does.. so what should i set it at?

thank you so much guys - One love
 

Diamond Member
Username: Wingmanalive

Www.stainles... .ecrater.com

Post Number: 22798
Registered: Jun-06
One question to start. Why is your power wire larger than your ground?
 

Bronze Member
Username: C0hpl

Post Number: 17
Registered: Aug-09
i ran out of the wire.. so i had to just use that stuff...
 

Bronze Member
Username: C0hpl

Post Number: 18
Registered: Aug-09
omg.. do you have nearly twenty three thounsand posts?
 

Gold Member
Username: Frkkevin

Team DLSSuperNatural...

Post Number: 7680
Registered: Nov-05
first thing first.. get a 1/0 amp kit.. and always use the same size ground as you use power
 

Gold Member
Username: Somedonniedude

Illinois Braaap MX

Post Number: 3055
Registered: May-07
Your friend is an idiot. what ohm are the voice coil(s) on your w7? this will determine if it will work or not with your amp.

Keeping the amp cool in your situation sounds tough. you could maybe build a box for it with multiple fans (something like pc fans) for a push/pull style air flow? just an idea to feed from..

x2 what jack said, get a 1/0 gauge wire kit
 

Bronze Member
Username: C0hpl

Post Number: 19
Registered: Aug-09
im not sure on the W7.. i am going to un screw it from the box tomorrow and have a look.. im guessing it is 3 Ohms..

and yeah, it sucks having a black car in florida in the summer.. my amp is over heating from just sitting in my trunk HA! :/

I am looking into the 0 gauge power wire... i really need it, but its too expensive.. i had 6 gauge, then i upgraded to 4 gauge which was like $100 for both of them, now i gotta do the 0 gauge upgrade..

How do i power a PC Fan in my trunk? I heard that PC fans are only like $5.. so i could get like 4 fans and put them pointing towards my amp and it might cool it down.. i just dont know how to power the fans.. nawmean ?
 

Bronze Member
Username: C0hpl

Post Number: 20
Registered: Aug-09
or it might be dual 1.5 ohm (3 total.. 1.5 per voice coil)
 

Diamond Member
Username: Wingmanalive

Www.stainles... .ecrater.com

Post Number: 22799
Registered: Jun-06
Never run a larger power wire than your ground. That's why when I read it I responded so fast before reading your entire post. Sorry, fire out back needed more wood.

As far as my post count..............long story. Some say it's a boring one too.



P.S. I have some great 1/0ga Shok industries wire that I ship for $2/ft. Red or blue. Very good wire, very flexible. Not pushing a sale lol, but if you need it I have it.
 

Bronze Member
Username: C0hpl

Post Number: 21
Registered: Aug-09
Okay.. i will see if i can find some wire tomorrow.. do you think for a temportary setup i could have 4 gauge power wire, then 0 gauge ground ?

And do u know how to cool my amp?

And what should i set my crossover to on my kicker amp?

thanks
 

Platinum Member
Username: Rovin

1 15 = 152.5 DBs ...Trinidad & T...

Post Number: 16267
Registered: Jul-05
13w7 are dual 1.5ohms meaning it can be wire at o.75ohms or 3ohms

http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_subs.php?series_id=10



that kicker amp is 1500wrms @ 2ohms
http://www.kicker.com/zx_amplifiers

so u shud wire that sub at 3ohms to get it to work off that amp ....
 

Silver Member
Username: Wackzirth88

K-town, Il U.S.

Post Number: 381
Registered: May-09
you can get a 1/0ga amp kit for knukonceptz for around 60 bucks. it includes everything u need to upgrade your power n grounds: ring terminals, inline fuse holder, inline fuse and of course the wire. but the wire paul has is probably easier to work with, the knu copper clad is kinda stiff. for having such expensive equipment u shouldnt cheap out on something like wire. as for helping the amp stay cool, like donnie said use some pc fans, worth a try at least.
 

Platinum Member
Username: Glasswolf

Lexington, SC USA

Post Number: 13472
Registered: Dec-03
as I said in Amplifiers:

OK first of all, just to note, amplifiers are designed to operate in harsh conditions in a car, and to run hot. My Orions run so hot during typical operation that you can't touch them without getting first degree burns on contact. It's normal.
That said, look at using one of these on each end of the amplifier(s) in a push-pull setup to draw air across the amp(s). These are what I use as well, triggered by a relay from the remote trigger so they turn on and off with the amps.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_5283_PAC+CF-1.html

Now something to note. typically an amplifier doesn't "fry" from heat alone. What usually kills an amplifier if it's a decently built amp (Kicker makes good amps) is clipping. The amp probably ahd the gain set too high, and/or was starved for current due to an inadequate electrical system. Your wiring is too small to start with. 4AWG and 6AWG won't cut it for an amp that draws 150A of current at full output. You need to swap that out to 2AWG or 1/0AWG for BOTH power and ground. (it's all one circuit. Use the same gauge wire throughout.)

Next, do the "big 3" upgrade. (if you need a link let me know)

After that, look at a high output alternator. Hondas are notorious for using small OEM alternators, and you're really going far, far beyond what a stock alternator can handle with that amplifier.

That's what killed your amp, and will likely kill that Orion sub as well if the amp continues to clip, if the coils aren't already damaged and being partly to blame for the diminished output.

In fact, here, read the links under the "electrical" section, please. They will help you a lot.

http://www.glasswolf.net/papers/index.html
 

Bronze Member
Username: C0hpl

Post Number: 22
Registered: Aug-09
Okay.. i understand i need to get some fans.. but idk how to get power to the fans haha.. do i splice into the power wire? The remote wire?

Also, do you know how i wire the sub to 3 OHM's please?

Im looking for some used 0 gauge wire, if anyone wants to sell me some...

thanks buddies!!

One love
 

Platinum Member
Username: Rovin

1 15 = 152.5 DBs ...Trinidad & T...

Post Number: 16268
Registered: Jul-05
u wire it like this : ...

Upload
 

Bronze Member
Username: C0hpl

Post Number: 23
Registered: Aug-09
Okay, i just checked and its wired into 3 OHM's..

What do you think i should set the gain to on the kicker amp?

How do i get power to the Fans in the trunk?

thanks
 

Gold Member
Username: Deadrabit

Marionville, MO

Post Number: 2414
Registered: Jun-07
get that wire from paul!

how much do u have? i might want some later on too.. i can't think of any reason get some.. but that is cheap!
 

Platinum Member
Username: Glasswolf

Lexington, SC USA

Post Number: 13484
Registered: Dec-03
instead of connecting the remote wire directly the the REM input on the amplifier, run it to the trigger pin on a Bosc 12 volt relay. Then use the relay to feed both the REM input of the amplifier, and the power to the fan(s) from the main (4 gauge was it?) line from the battery.

This avoids damage to the trigger circuit at the LOC or head unit, which is typically low current and not designed to drive things like fans.

For info on relays, see www.the12volt.com (they have a ton of diagrams on how to use relays. Great site.)

http://www.glasswolf.net/papers/dmmgain.html
gain setting directions
 

Silver Member
Username: Jbpitt

Pittsburgh, Pa. Usa

Post Number: 396
Registered: Jul-09
Yea,i bought some of that 1/0ga from paul for my big 3 uprade. Nice wire,very flexible an a hell of a price!
 

Bronze Member
Username: C0hpl

Post Number: 26
Registered: Aug-09
Okay.. how much is the 0 gauge? and how soon can you ship? thanks..


so with the fans situation..

I have a 4 gauge power wire running from my battery to the amp

i have my remote wire just stuffed into a fuse i think for the car lighter port thingy... and the remote wire goes from the fuse to the amp

do i just put the wire from the fan into the 4 gauge power wire port on the amp?

thanks

one love
 

Platinum Member
Username: Glasswolf

Lexington, SC USA

Post Number: 13490
Registered: Dec-03
I think this electrical stuff is way over your head and you should pay a professional to do the work for you. I don't see this ending well any other way.

http://www.the12volt.com/relays/relaydiagram25.html

If you insist on trying, this is how you will wire the relay to trigger both the amplifier and fan power.
 

Bronze Member
Username: C0hpl

Post Number: 27
Registered: Aug-09
i understand that now.. i can do that.. but that says the remote turn on and the 12V are diffrent things? Can i just use the one remote wire from the fuse? or is the 12V the battery (4 gauge).
 

Platinum Member
Username: Glasswolf

Lexington, SC USA

Post Number: 13498
Registered: Dec-03
the trigger is the remote turn on wire from the fusebox.
This is a low current trigger voltage line.
When the relay (available at any auto parts store) sees 12 volts on the trigger pin, that energizes teh coil inside the relay (you'll hear it click) which completes a circuit between the "12V" (your 4 gauge wire) and ground, allowing the fans, amp remote turn on inputs, and so forth to be powered directly from the 4 gauge wire instead of the remote wire itself.
This prevents you from burning up the low current trigger circuit by isolating the trigger line from the 4 gauge wire circuit that's actually powering everything for you (amps, fans, etc)

like so:
relay pins:
86 - wire this pin to the fusebox (or head unit remote trigger or power antenna lead)
85 - wire this pin to chassis ground
87 - wire this pin to your power distribution block or 4 gauge wire that's fed directly from your battery's pos(+) terminal.
30 - wire this pin to your amplifier's REM input (trigger line) and to the fan positive wire (+) while running the fan neg(-) wire to chassis ground.

Now the amp(s) and fan(s) will turn on with the (car or radio depending on your wiring)
 

Platinum Member
Username: Insearchofbass

2 hifonics 2607s, 2dcSounds12xls SPL\idmax12SQ

Post Number: 14004
Registered: Jun-04
definitely upgrade that alternator or watch things fry
 

Bronze Member
Username: C0hpl

Post Number: 29
Registered: Aug-09
Okay, im going to look into the fan/fuse/distrobution block thing..

About the alternator.. i have a 2009 honda civic coupe.. its a LEASE... so i don't really want to buy an alternator and have to take it out in a years time...

what if i bought a $100 battery and stuck it in my trunk ? I can't upgrade my alternator..
 

Platinum Member
Username: Glasswolf

Lexington, SC USA

Post Number: 13501
Registered: Dec-03
http://www.glasswolf.net/papers/charging.html

the above answers your question
 

Silver Member
Username: Skdooley

Roanoke, VA Usa

Post Number: 687
Registered: Oct-09
If the car is a lease I wouldn't be installing a sound system into it.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Jay_boy

Rochester, NY Usa

Post Number: 57
Registered: Feb-10
I can tell you that I tried that crap mtx reQ and it fried my hd 750, good thing the stereo shop in Henrietta NY got me a new one. Don't know if there is something in common but if you got that nice of a sub and amp I would change the HU. I didn't want to in my car but sooooo glad that I did after getting ripped on here on Ecoustics.
 

Bronze Member
Username: C0hpl

Post Number: 30
Registered: Aug-09
@ JasonP
wtf are you talking about man?? idk what a mtx reQ or a hd 750 is or a henrietta or anything ur talking about haha.

Anyways, i went out and bought 19 feet of 0 gauge stinger power wire :D

I also bought some 4 gauge wire.. and i did some work earlier.. made the 4 gauge into some ground.. so now i have 4 gauge power and ground.. so i can listen to my subwoofer again :D

i have not installed the 0 gauge yet, as i still have to get a in line fuse holder i think they call it.. does anyone know where to get this from? And how big i should get it / the fuse? thanks.

currently with my 4 gauge wire setup, my head lights are dimmin like a mofo... so hopefully with my 0 gauge wire setup, they won't dim.

If they do Dim, i am going to buy a Kinetick 800 or 100 (the $99 one..) they are batteries..

All i do is put the battery in my trunk, then run my power wire from the FRONT batttery, to the BACK battery (+) then i ground the other side of the BACK battery to the trunk somewhere... then i run power wire from the BACK (+) battery to my AMP.. then ground my amp..

will this work??

If i do this, will i be fine?? I will have 0 gauge.. and an extra battery... so thats like... a lot to me...

let me know guys, thank you again for helping me out and using your time on me.. i really appreciate it :D i will make you guys some cookies or brownies some time!!

One love!
 

Platinum Member
Username: Glasswolf

Post Number: 13540
Registered: Dec-03
you want to use a battery isolator for the audio only batteries to separate them from your starter battery.
ebay or any RV shop will have battery isolators.

also, if the alternator is large enough for the system, the light dimming may jsut be caused by the time it takes the alternator to respond to the spikes in current demand. In this case, a capacitor or two may help as well.
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