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Car audio in my room

 

New member
Username: Apbradenton

Post Number: 4
Registered: May-10
my car broke down and i took my system out but i want to enjoy my bass. i found out that i can hook up the subs to the computer but i dont really know what i need and how to do it.
i have a 12" 2000 watt rms orion hcca i want to hook up to my computer. i know that i need a ac/dc converter to power up the 2600 watt hifonics brutus amp but i dont know if the 500 watt converter will be able to power it up.
or is there something else i can use?
 

Diamond Member
Username: Wingmanalive

Www.stainles... .ecrater.com

Post Number: 22797
Registered: Jun-06
Been addressed many times before. It's just not a smart thing to do. There are too many horror stories with the idea. Leave the car audio gear for the car. If you want to power that sub indoors do it with a plate amp or some other AC powered amp/device IMO.
 

New member
Username: Apbradenton

Post Number: 7
Registered: May-10
ok
sorry is just something i heard people had done.
but well the sub demands a lot of power and will i need to get a plate amp that is 2000 watts?
i hadnt heard of plate amps before
 

Diamond Member
Username: Wingmanalive

Www.stainles... .ecrater.com

Post Number: 22800
Registered: Jun-06
I use a 1000w Dayton plate amp to power my 18" FI Q for my HT. It works.......ummmmm..... fantastically lol. You can use an external rack mount amp also for the same price. A speaker doesn't work off volts, only watts, so long as the ohm load balances the amps' output. So yes, you can successfully use a driver normally intended for car audio in a HT setting. Many will frown on it but as long as you use a quality driver that is suited for your needs it can have great returns.
 

Diamond Member
Username: Wingmanalive

Www.stainles... .ecrater.com

Post Number: 22801
Registered: Jun-06
Oh, and please don't confuse power in car audio as opposed to HT. Many HT subs use 200w or less. In a truly balanced system you want each component to compliment each other, not dominate them. For example, you don't want a 100w HT utilizing a 2000w sub, it's just too lopsided. One the other hand you don't want a 50 seat HT to have a 50w sub in one corner for the bass. I've seen some crazy chit here lol. Like a 12 cu 18" sub enclosure in a bedroom!!!


That'll make the parents kick you out lol.
 

Silver Member
Username: Gcs8

Atlanta, Ga

Post Number: 466
Registered: Sep-09
i run car audio in my place works better then my old home theater in a box by far.

http://gcs8.serveftp.net/TDP/IMG_1674.JPG

http://gcs8.serveftp.net/TDP/IMG_1672.JPG

the wiring has been beefed up senths that picture.

http://gcs8.serveftp.net/TDP/DSCN0594.JPG

http://gcs8.serveftp.net/TDP/DSCN0593.JPG

http://gcs8.serveftp.net/TDP/DSCN0592.JPG

i never run the system past about half way, it gets pretty loud all o its own. if you run with the car amp you will need at least 2 deepcycles on a constant charge. my setup has been running for about 2 years non stop, keep the batterys out side becouse they releace hydrian gas if over charged or rabidly drained.
 

Silver Member
Username: Rosrock

Michigan

Post Number: 122
Registered: Mar-09
thats pretty sweet man lol
 

Gold Member
Username: Deadrabit

Marionville, MO

Post Number: 2413
Registered: Jun-07
omg....
 

Silver Member
Username: Jbpitt

Pittsburgh, Pa. Usa

Post Number: 393
Registered: Jul-09
LOL Wow!
 

Platinum Member
Username: Glasswolf

Lexington, SC USA

Post Number: 13486
Registered: Dec-03
I don't like getting into this topic, but the problem here is taht to run car audio at home properly, you need a DC switching power supply that is designed for sustained high current applications. These bench power supplies generally cost a solid 4 figures.

You can't really use a PC power supply unless you want to run a very good risk of setting fire to your house. Yes the power supply will drive a car amplifier, but it just doesn't have the emans to stay cool enough to handle the high current draw the amp will present, and this is a prime setting for a fire.
Using car batteries on a trickle charger is jus as bad of an idea, since doing this causes the batteries to gas, which vents hydrogen gas into the room wehre you have this set up. The batteries will begin to swell, and as they do, they release highly toxic, colorless, odorless fumes into the room, which can and will kill a person. This is similar to how we'd tried to run our display board at one audio shop where I worked in the 1990s. They used a bank of car batteries on a charger to run the entire board. subs, components, amps, head units.. and when we remodeled and got back behind the display, the batteries looked like someone had hit 'em with a flame thrower. It wasn't pretty.

Just don't bother trying to run car audio at home. By comparison to home equipment, car audio is really pretty crappy stuff anyway. If you want a good home stereo system, just spend a few hundred dollars and buy a nice HTiaB system. It will work and sound much better anyway.
 

Diamond Member
Username: Wingmanalive

Www.stainles... .ecrater.com

Post Number: 22804
Registered: Jun-06
Agreed. Even the most modest, entry level HT gear will out perform "car subs and amps" in a room by far, spending less $$ and taking less risks. It's all about design and what a product is designed to do in its' intended environment.

For example: Just compare the sensitivity rating of your car's 6X9's you have hung from the ceiling (if they provide it at all) to even a half decent set of front or side channel speaks in a HTIB, let alone a quality set of home stereo speakers.


In bottom of the barrel car audio you'll find sensitivity ratings so far in the basement you'd need a miner's hat to find it. BUT, it will claim a monstrous max power which sells it to 17 year olds spending their first paycheck. I admit it. I did it too. I had a Becker box suspended from the ceiling of my bedroom as a teen. It just looked cool lol. Thank God that was over 20 years ago.
 

Silver Member
Username: Gcs8

Atlanta, Ga

Post Number: 469
Registered: Sep-09
i use to have a home theater in a box, i hated it, this set up is all my spair parts that just would be lieing around other wise. the batterys i am useing are ~2 years old, they still hold a good charge, there outside my htiab speakers where 1.3 ohms and 89 pretty much the same thing but better for me. no problems, i usaly use it for tv and gameing not realy a hard power draw. stays on when my power goes out. its just something that works for me. maby not every one else. only thing i bought was a spare head unit and battery's.
 

Platinum Member
Username: Glasswolf

Lexington, SC USA

Post Number: 13495
Registered: Dec-03
don't say we didn't warn you
 

Gold Member
Username: Southernrebel

Monroe, Louisiana Team Audible...

Post Number: 8033
Registered: Mar-04
I you just HAVE to use car audio in your house...try one of these:

http://www.cascadeaudio.com/power_converters/power_converters.htm

The APS100 is what we have in our demo room at the shop. Along w/ a Kinetik Hc2000.
 

Silver Member
Username: Gcs8

Atlanta, Ga

Post Number: 470
Registered: Sep-09
again this is all spare equipment.

as much hardware as i have in the house its all set to run at 4 ohms, i keep a very close eye on the batterys, there deep cycle and not sealed, they live out side there they can vent gas's. the charger stops when the batts are full. i have clamped the DC lines and none of them pull more then 30 amps at the max vol i choose to lission. my first big buy is a high output alt for my car then i will get a real 100 amp ac to dc converter, i have a 25 amp one but ovioulsly not enof power there. i really like the fact that the system will run strait for 2-3 days without power if my power goes out. i am tempted to run my cars old alt off an electric motor, when i get my HO one thought it might be fun to experiment to play with. in 8 mounths the battery's get changed out for new ones. theres a lot of thinkg i would like to do the right way but as a full time student, i don't have much money if any to do things the proper more expensive way.
 

Platinum Member
Username: Insearchofbass

2 hifonics 2607s, 2dcSounds12xls SPL\idmax12SQ

Post Number: 14010
Registered: Jun-04
I guess whatever works for ya bro....gotta give you credit for creativity haha
 

Silver Member
Username: Gcs8

Atlanta, Ga

Post Number: 471
Registered: Sep-09
ha ha ty ty, i do the best with what i got. when i finish school and have money i will start building my home theater, at witch point i may need some one to help me design a 2 way cross-over.and a good seguestion for a nice receiver.
 

Platinum Member
Username: Glasswolf

Lexington, SC USA

Post Number: 13505
Registered: Dec-03
the batteries being outside are the saving grace there. The fact that they aren't sealed batteries would be a big concern otherwise.

Those power supplies he linked are nice. They are similar to the one I use for bench work @ 100A peak continuous output. They got cheaper though. Mine was a lot more than $400 when I bought it 10+ years back. haha
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