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Best amp to do 1000 watts at 4 ohms

 

Silver Member
Username: Cwruck

Post Number: 111
Registered: Feb-10
hi guys i have recently bought a re sx 12'' sub and its a dvc 2 ohm, i have it wired in series so its sitting at a 4 ohm load, i would like to keep it like that, i dont want to run 1 ohm. im just wondering what are some good amps that can do 1000 watts+ rms at 4 ohms?
i am thinking an alpine pdx 1000 but is there anything cheaper?
i have 0 ga wire and its frustrating that i see too many amps that only accept up to 4 ga
any comments? thanks
 

Silver Member
Username: Gcs8

Atlanta, Ga

Post Number: 455
Registered: Sep-09
SAZ-4500D will do 900 watts @4 ohms. the pdx dosent look like it ash the electrical to keep up to what it says.

Fuse rating: 20A x 4 = 80 amps it takes at least 100 amps per 1000 watts.

how ever the diff in between 100 watts probably wont make that big of a diff.

i would say maybe 2 ohms is more friendly for your price range.
 

Silver Member
Username: Cwruck

Post Number: 112
Registered: Feb-10
well im sure the sundown is way out of my price range, i would like to stay around 300 if possible and thats just total overkill too with that amp..
and a fuse rating on an amp doesnt mean thats the amp draw you will get
 

Platinum Member
Username: Rovin

1 15 = 152.5 DBs ...Trinidad & T...

Post Number: 16252
Registered: Jul-05
why dont u want to run it at 1 ohm ...?
 

Silver Member
Username: Cwruck

Post Number: 113
Registered: Feb-10
i could always get a brand new sundown sae 1200d and just run it at 1 ohm, but i just want the best sound quality possible, maybe im just crazy thinking that 1 ohm wont sound as good as 4 ohms, and it definitely takes more money to find an amp to do 1000 watts at 4 ohms than it does to do 1000 watts at 1 ohm.
also 4 or 1 ohm are my only options.
i may just go with sundown and run at 1 ohm, i like the way their power ratings are underrated at 12.8 volts instead of everyone elses ratings at 14.4
 

Gold Member
Username: Delsole

Post Number: 1473
Registered: Feb-05
If i was in your shoes i think i would go to 1 ohm.
 

Silver Member
Username: Skdooley

Roanoke, VA Usa

Post Number: 675
Registered: Oct-09
If SQ is what you're going for, I believe I remember Glasswolf posting in another thread that an AB amp at 4 ohms is a better choice than a class D amp. Not sure why, I'm sure he can shine some light on it. With that though, you may have some other options in amps to look at. AB amps though arn't as efficient as class Ds, so that may be something to consider.
 

Silver Member
Username: Skdooley

Roanoke, VA Usa

Post Number: 676
Registered: Oct-09
Like this D6 here does 1000 rms at 4 ohms bridged.

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/p_19456_Diamond_Audio_D6_10002.aspx

Above your price range though.
 

Silver Member
Username: Gcs8

Atlanta, Ga

Post Number: 456
Registered: Sep-09
100amps x 12.8V = 1280 watts x .80 eff = 1024 watts so yes the fusing does have a rather large barring on the out put.

now if you could hold 14.4 then.

100 amps x 14.4V = 1440 watts x .80 eff = 1152 watts real world.
 

Platinum Member
Username: Rovin

1 15 = 152.5 DBs ...Trinidad & T...

Post Number: 16253
Registered: Jul-05
unless ur a purist or some1 with some sort of formal sound training\engineering i doubt u wud notice a class A\B & class D difference in bass ...
 

Silver Member
Username: Gcs8

Atlanta, Ga

Post Number: 457
Registered: Sep-09
besides the face that A\B amps are 50-60% eff and class D is 70-86% eff
 

Gold Member
Username: Kyle_lowe

Post Number: 1059
Registered: Apr-06
didnt PG have an older line of amps that did 1200 at 1-4?
 

Silver Member
Username: Cwruck

Post Number: 114
Registered: Feb-10
but look at a sundown saz 1000d its total fusing is only 75 amps but yet it can do 1000+ at 1 ohm.. and i bet its 70% efficient at the most. the amps fuses do play a part but its total output is not based on that.
and then you can look at cheap amps like a soundstorm 4000 watt amp, they have like 150 amp fuses but they wont put out that much power
and ya i dont want an a/b i just wont have the electrical for that.
im just wondering is there a big difference when using class d between sq at 1 ohm compared to 4?
from experience 1 ohm has sounded horrible to me while 4 ohm always sounded much "cleaner"
and its not like i have the best box for a pure sq sound, my box is rather big and ported, but i still want a good sound
 

Silver Member
Username: Cwruck

Post Number: 115
Registered: Feb-10
and if you want to get critical those numbers you are posting will never happen, you have to take account that a sub is never quite at the ohm load it says it is, just because its a dvc 2 ohm sub wired to 1 ohm doesnt mean its sitting at exactly 1 ohm, and then with bass the impedience rises meaning the amp can rise in impedience resulting in less output, and of course amps never draw their max current because nobody has their stereo at 100% volume at all times.
 

Silver Member
Username: Gcs8

Atlanta, Ga

Post Number: 460
Registered: Sep-09
Rated power output
----RMS power, 2 ohm linkable/dual mono

1800W x 1CH
----RMS power, 1 ohm mono

1000W x 1CH
----RMS power, 2 ohm mono

600W x 1CH
----RMS power, 4 ohm mono

300W x 1CH
Signal to Noise Ratio >90dB
Low pass frequency crossover 35Hz~300Hz
Subsonic filter 10Hz~60Hz
Bass boost @ 45Hz 0~18dB
Phase shift control 0~180 degree
Frequency response 10Hz~350Hz (+/- 1dB)
T.H.D @ 4 ohm <0.1%
Efficiency @ 4 ohm 86%
Fuse rating 25A x 3
Input Sensitivity 200mV to 6V (+/- 5%)
Dimensions 252(W) x 58(H) x 294(L)mm

Tested Voltage & THD : 14.4V & Less than 1% THD

14.4v x 75 = 1080watts x .86 eff = 928.8 watts

also a fuse does not pop the seconed you get to its rateing.

Fuse Opening Time:
A fuse does not blow when the current reaches its rated current. It is designed to pass its rated current without opening. A fuse will take varying times to blow under different conditions. A fuse will pass significantly more than its rated current for a very short time. It may take 10 minutes or more to blow a fuse at 25% over its rated current. The table below is an example of the specifications for a slow blow fuse. You can see that a 20 amp fuse may pass 40 amps of current for as long as 5 minutes before blowing although it probably wouldn't take a full 5 minutes to blow. The times for other fuses will be slightly different.
%of amp rating Opening time
110% 4 hours minimum
135% 1 hour maximum
200% 5 minutes maximum

so yes you can run more then 75A the amp and it probly wouldent blow for a wile, how ever i feel glasswolf shuld hop in on this. but you cant get more power out then you put in, thats called free energy and that dosent exzist.

also the current draw isent constant unless you are running test tones and even still the fluxuating ohm load of the subs means you are more likely seeing ~300 watts of that 1k.
 

Silver Member
Username: Gcs8

Atlanta, Ga

Post Number: 461
Registered: Sep-09
btw you can draw max current without being at 100% vol, dont be stupid.
 

Silver Member
Username: Cwruck

Post Number: 116
Registered: Feb-10
it is highly unlikely you will ever draw max current from an amp. and what are you trying to say with all that?
and that 86% efficiency is at 4 ohms not at 1, thats why i said i bet its around 70%
im just asking what are some good options for an amp to do 1000 watts at 4 ohms
your not really proving anything to me, honestly i dont think you quite understand everything you are trying to say, and im sure neither one of us quite understand all of this fully either
 

Gold Member
Username: Hittin1

TEAM REVOLUTION, La. Lake Charles...

Post Number: 4437
Registered: May-07
JL Audio 1000/1 would work if you get a deal on a used one (can't believe I just said that). Pdx1000 does rated power from everthing I've heard on em. I would wire it in parallel and get an aq1200 or equiv. And roll with it.
 

Silver Member
Username: Skdooley

Roanoke, VA Usa

Post Number: 677
Registered: Oct-09
If getting the 1k rms is important, the JL or Alpine as recommended would be the way to go. I believe the main difference from the Alpine to the JL is, the 1000/1 gives you a little more control on filters than the PDX will.
 

Gold Member
Username: Mendonmafia

USA

Post Number: 2031
Registered: Aug-06
i like my atomic 3k. does 1000 at 4 ohms. personally if money is no object it get a jbl amp. they make power 1-4 ohm, actually slightly less at 1 ohm...

and @ deathoob, saz 4500 makes more than 900 @ 4ohm. its really underrated, just look at the saz3000 which is rated for 800 @ 4ohm and is still underrated. its pretty much the samething as myatomic 3k and they have been clamped at 1000+ @ 4. also you definitely can get 1000 watts out of 80 amp fusing. my old pg r1500 made a little over 12 its 00 clamped watts and only had 80 amps of fusing
 

Silver Member
Username: Gcs8

Atlanta, Ga

Post Number: 467
Registered: Sep-09
<<< run a saz-3000d
 

Gold Member
Username: Mendonmafia

USA

Post Number: 2034
Registered: Aug-06
so u know it makes 1000 at 4 then. im sure you already know this but the rd3250, atomic 3000 and saz 3000 all use the same board and pretty much all make the same power but for some reason only atomic properly rates theres at 2 and 4 ohm

and to correct my horrible typed post, thats 1200 clamped watts for my old pg amp.
 

Silver Member
Username: Cwruck

Post Number: 122
Registered: Feb-10
i had a jbl gto14001 and i didnt like it at all, it had way way too much current draw and i could never power it right lol. but thanks for the advice im actually going to get a sundown sae-1200d and run it at 1 ohm. I hope it sounds good, i wanted to run my sub at 4 ohms but for the price im getting the sundown for i cant pass on it
 

Platinum Member
Username: Glasswolf

Lexington, SC USA

Post Number: 13481
Registered: Dec-03
To clarify a few things:
The fuse rating on an amplifier pretty much tells you the maximum current you can draw with the amplifier, which is an indicator of amplifiers that are fudging how much power they really produce. When you see a 4000 watt BOSS amplifier that has 90A worth of fuses, there is no way to produce 4Kw of power from 12 to 16VDC with 90A of current. It's simple Ohm's Law. This is why you pay attention to the fuses on an amp when you're shopping to see if the power claims are remotely accurate, provided the amp lacks CEA2006 certification, and has internal fusing. Sure a 4Kw amp will never produce 4Kw in a car, playing music, since the measurement is taken with a resistive dummy load on a test bench with a tone generator. However, if I pay for 4000 watts, I want to know I'm getting what I paid for.

A class AB amp does produce a cleaner signal than a class D amp. 4 ohm loads will produce a cleaner output than 2 or 1 ohm loads because you have moe headroom, better THD, better S/N ratio, etc. However, will you be able to hear a difference in a car, with subs? No. Certainly not, unless you have a *really* lousy amplifier.

Lastly, one cardinal rule of amplifier shopping.
Never specify the amount of power you require and specify a fixed budget, too. This is sa recipe for disaster. The only way to really get a quality amplifier is to either say:
-I need a good amp that can produce 1000 watts @ 2 ohms @ 14.4VDC. What is a good amp that won't break the bank?
*or*
-I have $250.00 USD to spend, and I need a quality amplifier to drive a 2 ohm load for subs. What is a good amp, and how much power can I get for the budget I have?

Never give a fixed budget and a fixed power spec. You're destined to get a crappy amplifier doing this.
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