I've read over some posts but since everything varies so much, and I'm sure my lack of understanding to boot, I couldn't quite find the answers I'm looking for. I'm putting together my first system, and doing so on a bit of a budget. No set figure really, but all in all it looks like I'll end around $800ish (w/install). I'm driving a 99 Mercedes C230 (no Bose).
So far I have some after market speakers purchased a few years ago from Al and Eds, a 4 channel Infinity Reference 475a, and a mono Infinity Reference 1600a. Honestly, I don't remember the speaker brand, but I've yet to test them with a decent head unit or amp so before replacing them I will give them a shot.
I feel pretty confident about the head unit I've decided on - the Kenwood Excelon KDC-X994 seems to have all good reviews, but I'm not completely sure about buying from a "non-authorized" dealer. For a $70 difference from Ebay to Crutchfield the choice seems obvious to me, as defects aren't THAT common...are they? Same for subs? Will adding my old 12 disc mp3 JVC changer be a problem (assuming it's worth keeping attached - I'm not against removing it if the concensus is it's not necessary/takes up space the box should be in).
So my biggest area of contention...the subs. I listen to mostly rock - 90% - with some techno and a little hip hop. I'm under the impression 2 10s will suit my needs well, but I'm not certain which ones. I'm leaning towards JL Audio 10W0v2-4 - about $80 each on Ebay, all the way to Infinity Kappa 100.9W - about $130 each. $130 each is about the max I'd like to spend. I don't know too much about brands, but JL and Inf Kappas both seem to have a lot of respect so I'm leaning towards something from either of those 2. For these two examples, would I really notice the difference between the two? And on that note, will I even notice a difference dropping either into a premade (and much cheaper than custom) box?
As my mono amp is only 600w, will my sound suffer if I purchase subs that require more watts? Down the line I may be willing to buy another amp, add upgrades, etc etc, but right now I'm just trying to get this done as cost/sound efficiently as possible.
Annnnnnndd... if someone could point me to some wiring kits (head unit and amps) it would be appreciated
Thanks for reading!
--Also, just heard back from Zenclosures and there's no C230 box for me --Removed trunk pic as it wasn't showing and giving an error
A sealed enclosure would fit you listening needs it sounds like. 10s may be enough, if you want a little extra sound you may go with a set of 12s if you can give up a little extra space. You're going to want a pair of subs that do well in sealed enclosures. I don't personally know how Infinities do, but JL and IDQ both work well in sealed enclosures and make a nice SQ woofer.
so i say if u already got a 600(by watt i take it you mean rms) rms amp just get 2 of those kappas or perfects seal them up and u should be set. ur gona want a 4 gauge kit or even 2 gauge if you plan on upgrading in the future
I don't think the space will be an issue for me. I know a lot of this is all personal preference, but in general would 12s be preferred over 10s? I'm not looking for OVERPOWERING bass...but I also don't want to regret not building enough.
Infinitys it is! I kind of like the idea of the entire setup being Infinity anyways ;)
well 12s cover more area than 10s of course/push more air which naturally means 12s will have more output and get lower however the 10s should have a quicker response so thats good for those quick hit type of beats. I think if your gonna seal em up you mine as well go with 12's so maybe you dont think twice about it later if you regret how loud 10s get.ur gonna have some great sq no matter which you choose .
these are some common misnomers. a 10" sub and an 18" sub are both capable of playing just as "low" but you'll simply get more output at the bottom octave from the larger sub because it moves more air than the smaller sub can, and human hearing is very insensitive to low frequencies. The larger sub can be just as fast and detailed or even more so than the smaller sub, since it's not a factor of cone diameter, but actually a factor of BL, or the motor strength of the driver. The better the motor, the more control. The other thing that determines how quick a sub is, would be the type or alignment of enclosure you choose. A sealed box will always have a lower transient delay than ported for example, and a sealed box will play lower since it won't drop off suddenly below a specified frequency like ported boxes do.