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Bronze Member Username: AlonzoubPost Number: 16 Registered: Apr-10 | Im looking into getting a single 10" sub for my car and I only plan on putting 350-500 watts to the sub (is this enough?). I simply want to complement the ~60ish RMS wattage I will be putting into my front components. That being said I DO NOT care about SPL. I am looking for a woofer that is built for sound quality @ or around $150. I was looking into the IDQ12V2.D2 (simply because its cheaper than the 10" on woofers etc.) but I wanted to know if there are more options. The Boston Acoustics G5 is a tad out of my price range so i was wondering if the G3's have comparable SQ in any way. If not do you think saving up a bit for the G5 is the way to go. Im open to any suggestions, but keep in mind im on a tight budget. Lastly, what happened to Infinity's Kappa Perfect line of woofers? Did they get phased out? I always heard they were great SQ subs and for a great price too. Will they come back? |
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Platinum Member Username: Insearchofbass2 hifonics 2607s, 2dcSounds12xls SPL\idmax12SQ Post Number: 13923 Registered: Jun-04 | I have an idq12 v2 its a very good sq woofer 350 watts and it gets plenty loud for sq |
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Gold Member Username: The_image_dynamicSan Diego, California Post Number: 5716 Registered: Dec-06 | I have the IDQ10 for my computer audio and it does well... but he will be much better off with the Infinity Kappa Perfect. Yes they are discontinued, but they are for sale everywhere still. Maybe look for a closeout. The IKP is a killer SQ driver that also can get loud. |
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Bronze Member Username: AlonzoubPost Number: 17 Registered: Apr-10 | Yea ive had my eye on the Kappa Perfect for about a week or so, @ $119.99 I was pretty excited to find this sub on http://www.dealercostcaraudio.com/. But as of a couple days ago it was taken off their website, http://www.woofersetc.com/ sells it for $190 but thats alittle too much for me, and http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/ has it for $150 which I can still do, but I dont start my new job for about a week and I dont have the money right now, so who knows if they will be in stock when I do. I really havnt been into car audio for long, so if you have a trick on finding things for cheap, im all ears Any other opinions on Boston Acoustic subs or anything else? |
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Gold Member Username: Kyle_lowePost Number: 1045 Registered: Apr-06 | found it for 130 on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/Infinity-Kappa-Perfect-10VQ-10-Subwoofer-1600W-/140401537162 ?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Car_Subwoofers_Enclosures&hash=item20b095708a#ht_3052wt_941 |
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Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfColumbia, SC USA Post Number: 13177 Registered: Dec-03 | I'd go IDQ or Fi Q (with added spider and I heat ring options. possibly high Qts as well) and go straight sealed enclosure, or aperiodic if you want pure SQ. When you say 60 watts for fronts, do you mean per channel, and from a dedicated amplifier, or are you talking "60 watts from a head unit?" What is your front stage? I wouldn't bother with the kappa perfect subs. Infinity makes good components, but there are better subs out there for similar cost. Between teh IDQ and Fi Q (www.ficaraudio.com) go with the largest diameter sub you can afford in your budget range. The larger the cone surface, typically the lower the Fs of the driver will be due to the added moving mass. You'll also typically be able to move more air per watt applied. If you have the space for a single sealed 12" or 15", then do it. You'll be happier with the results for a sealed box in a SQ system. A QS sub with a good BL curve will have outstanding motor control anyway, so it will remain tight and detailed, but you'll get more deep, resonant bass from the setup, as compared to a smaller sub that just won't move the same kind of air at the bottom octave. I have a SQ system set up in my own car, and it's my main interest. I'm not really into SPL. |
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Bronze Member Username: AlonzoubPost Number: 18 Registered: Apr-10 | sorry i should have been more clear, im most likely getting Alpine Type R components in the front powered by either an Infinity Refrence 475a (75x4 @ 4 ohms) or Eclipse EA4200 (60x4 @ 4 ohms). With 2 midrange drivers in the back loaded mono (idea a la Glasswolf) I dont want to go any bigger than 12" sealed because I do use my trunk quite a bit. I drive a 2005 Mazda 3 Sedan. I have looked into the Fi Q and would love to have it. but its almost double the price range im looking at, so its pretty much out of the question. As far as "better subs @ similar cost", could you give some examples? The IDQ V2 is really the only one that ive found. I appreciate all the input so far guys. |
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Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfColumbia, SC USA Post Number: 13184 Registered: Dec-03 | go with the IDQ then. It's a very good sub. |
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Gold Member Username: FrkkevinTeam DLSSuperNatural... Post Number: 7629 Registered: Nov-05 | Ever consider the RE SE 12"? Run two of those in my SQ setup sealed with 0.7 cubes per chamber and they work out great. FS is 25hz if I remember correctly.. the 15" I think is 22hz. Either way I was going to actually run the IDQs but I needed something with a higher power handling. |
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Bronze Member Username: BloodforgePost Number: 41 Registered: Mar-10 | Sorry this isn't about a budget sub, but figured I might help save ya a little on your front stage, and maybe you could spend a bit more on a sub. If your considering going with the infinity amp for your front stage, i'd suggest checking out, http://stores.ebay.com/hdgamerstore They are a outlet for best buy, I picked up my 475a from there store, yeah was used, scratched up a hair, but won the auction for 42, with free shipping. And they generally have a ton of them up. Make sure ya read the description tho, some of them are not in working order, but they clearly state it in description. I picked up the 475, and 2 of the 1600a infinity refrence from them for a total of 150ish shipped, all 3 were in great working order. 475a does an excellent job pushing my kappa perfect comps in bridged mode, pretty clean output. |
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Bronze Member Username: AlonzoubPost Number: 19 Registered: Apr-10 | no actually I never did read about the RE SE, how much power does this sub take? It is in my price range, but from the youtube videos I just watched, im pretty sure its gonna require more power than I want to put into my sub. I actually said either the 475a or the eclipse because im actually bidding on one of those amps right now lol. Just not sure if im going to win. I was a bit sketchy about it because theres so many and for so cheap, but if you say it came out ok for you, ill probably be less hesitant to bid. |
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Platinum Member Username: Rovin1 15 = 152.5 DBs ...Trinidad & T... Post Number: 16201 Registered: Jul-05 | will u be using a single amp like a 4 chan to play all ur speakers or do u have 2 separate amps if its for pure sq i will not rec type R comps - they sound loud but the tweeter IMO is a bit harsh , look at something more natural sounding like DLS comps on ebay for a sub ID series or IDQ both sounds pretty good - if ur going ported just tuned them low like close to 30hz SE sounds good sealed too as well - i had 2 10s sealed but they are rated 600wrms each also if ur willing to spend $50 more than ur budget look at JL 13w3 for around $200 which has more cone area than a regular 12" of course ... |
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Bronze Member Username: AlonzoubPost Number: 20 Registered: Apr-10 | yep, front channels on the comps and rear channels bridged on 8ohm midrange drivers. and a seperate monoblock for the woofer. I dont HAVE anything yet, im just planning for about a month from now. I dont mind suggestions on other components of my setup, this is my first build afterall and you people know more than I do. Which DLS comps would you recommend? Are the C-5A or the B-5A good enough? |
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Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfColumbia, SC USA Post Number: 13188 Registered: Dec-03 | with DLS? The best model you can afford |
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Gold Member Username: FrkkevinTeam DLSSuperNatural... Post Number: 7630 Registered: Nov-05 | I'd also recommend DLS for comps.. love my nobelium set |
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Bronze Member Username: AlonzoubPost Number: 21 Registered: Apr-10 | i see, well i sure cant afford the nobelium set lol. but ill go for maybe the a Reference Series. Ill keep everything everyones posted in mind, thanks for the help. |
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Gold Member Username: FrkkevinTeam DLSSuperNatural... Post Number: 7631 Registered: Nov-05 | IMO i'd concentrate on the front stage before even getting subs |
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Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfColumbia, SC USA Post Number: 13199 Registered: Dec-03 | to expound on my suggestion of the best ones you can afford, this is why: with head units, it's about features. a CD is a CD. It's all digital, and it's going to sound relatively the same from any unit you buy. Any coloration added by a head unit is a fault of that make or model and shouldn't be there in the first place. An amplifier should also be transparent, and just amplify the input signal. It's just a matter of how much power you get. The "quality" of sound is minimal at best, and shouldn't be where you spend all of your money. Again, if it's well made, you're buying two things. Longevity, and a good power supply. Subwoofers. These can make a big difference with the quality of the motor they use (BL curve) but mainly, you're buying one for it's output, or it's motor control (SPL or SQ respectively) and little more. You don't even hear distortion in car subs below 10%. Now your components. This is where the money belongs. These are responsible for 70% of what you hear. All of your vocals, guitars, piano, just about every instrument save for bottom octave synthesizers and drums are produced by these speakers. This is why they need a responsive amplifier to deliver adequate power, and why positioning is so vital. These speakers set your soundstage, and imaging. They are what provide the timbre of the system. They are also, sadly, the most overlooked part of the audio system. "Oh I just use my factory door speakers" or "I have some six and a half inch speakers on the ehad unit., but I have FOUR FIFTEEN-inch subs with ten-THOUSAND watts of power!" OK, maybe the second most overlooked part, next to your charging system, but as far as the audio itself, yeah. The only part of my system I think I spent more money for than my fronts, was my head unit (because I got my amplifiers used, and went for the flagship model stage-4 pioneer head unit.) |
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Bronze Member Username: CwruckPost Number: 96 Registered: Feb-10 | if you want sound quality, honestly i would say go with dls like suggested, i run dls in my car and man they are so so clean, no speaker i have heard can compare to them in the price you pay, and dont go with an infinity amp, the eclipse amp is much much better, i have that eclipse amp i use for my dls, and even though it doesnt have the higher wattage numbers it is plenty loud and basically the best sq amp without spending hundreds more. and for the sub like suggested above a jl w3v3 sub would be the way to go, they get plenty loud off 300 watts or less and they are extremely accurate. i actually prefer a jl 12'' w3v3 over a much more expensive jl 12'' w6v2 and this is all from experience, not me just repeating what other people have said. im all about the sq as well a stock eletrical would power that eclipse 4 channel and a class d amp rated around 400 watts rms ive never used image dynamics, but its only because i have heard too many people have problems with them, a jl sub is going to last you a long time and they sound clean with ported boxes as well, but im sure everyone will recommend you use a sealed box for sq |
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Gold Member Username: FrkkevinTeam DLSSuperNatural... Post Number: 7632 Registered: Nov-05 | or you could always pick up a used dls amp to boot :P i'd sell you a spare one of my five but i see a future for the extra two |
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Silver Member Username: CwruckPost Number: 104 Registered: Feb-10 | what model number is you dls amp? and for how much? |
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Gold Member Username: FrkkevinTeam DLSSuperNatural... Post Number: 7633 Registered: Nov-05 | im not going to sell any.. not for the time being but i know snow was selling his dls a3 i have the following dls ultimate a3 - two dls ultimate a4 - one dls ultimate a6 - two |