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New member Username: Bathory610Post Number: 1 Registered: Mar-10 | Here is the situation, i own a 09 mustang GT with a stock shaker 500 system, im looking to upgrade and i have very little knowledge about car audio systems. I cannot go to my local car audio store for help, because im in Iraq, but would like to order the parts and have my gf take it in to get installed (alittle coming home present for myself). Anyway i would greatly appreciate everyones input on what i should get (under 2k total).I dont need to blow out windows or anything, i just want to listen to my rock/electronic music and realllly feel, nice, clean crisp and hard hitting. What ive found so far is basically the head unit Kenwood DDX516 (DDX-516) Stock speaker sizes in the car: 6X8 speakers 8"door woofer no amp or sub. Thanks guys! like i said any help would be tremendous. |
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Silver Member Username: SkdooleyRoanoke, VA Usa Post Number: 453 Registered: Oct-09 | I would definately recommend a sealed enclosure for the type of sound you're looking for. |
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New member Username: ChrisommerPost Number: 2 Registered: Mar-10 | Fi Q or Image Dynamic IDMAX Sundown audio amp Image dynamics makes some nice speakers as well. I am running the CTX65CS and they sound nice! I would recommend a components over coaxials. |
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New member Username: Bathory610Post Number: 2 Registered: Mar-10 | how many amps say for a single 10? |
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Silver Member Username: Simple_smithLapeer, Michigan United States Post Number: 374 Registered: Dec-08 | I agree with chrisommer. I'd go with a 10" or 12" Q or IDMAX off a sundown 1500 |
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New member Username: Bathory610Post Number: 3 Registered: Mar-10 | great info, would i need an amp (say a 4 channel for the internal speakers) and a seperate 1500 amp for the subwoofer? |
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Silver Member Username: Simple_smithLapeer, Michigan United States Post Number: 376 Registered: Dec-08 | yes. -the Sundown SAZ1500 http://www.sundownaudio.com/index.php/products/amplifiers/saz-1500d.html I'm not really an expert on comp speakers, but i hear good things about CDT and DLS component speakers |
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Silver Member Username: SkdooleyRoanoke, VA Usa Post Number: 456 Registered: Oct-09 | If you're running 1500 rms on subs then yeah I'd say you would need an amp on upgraded speakers inside the car to keep up with the bass. I'm not sure if the new mustangs have more room in the trunk than the mid 90 models did, but 12s used to be a tight fit for a mustang. A nice set of 10s would do great. IDQ was a great recommendation. If you stay around 1000 rms a set of w3s or even w6s would be a nice choice as well. Great SQ. IDQs and w6s are arguably the 2 best SQ woofers on the market. |
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Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfColumbia, SC USA Post Number: 12760 Registered: Dec-03 | I would skip the kenwood and keep the factory head unit if it has integrated functions, like steering wheel controls, nav, etc. get a JL Audio Cleansweep to interface the radio to the amplifiers. Get what you want for subs.. say a single 15" or pair of 12", and enclosure to go with the sub(s). I'd seriously consider a 3-way component set for the doors, with the 7 or 8" midbass in the factory door opening, and the midrange and tweeter mounted in a plate in the factory 6x8 location I'd power the 3-way setup with a 2-channel or bridged 4-channel amplifier, and get a monoblock amp @ 2 ohms to drive the sub(s). that, and power/ground wiring, interconnects, etc should do the job. cheaper alternatives: single 10" or 12" sub (example Fi Q series, or RE SE series) single hybrid amplifier (like the Memphis line of amps with a class D sub amp and class AB multichannel amp all in one case.) |
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Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfColumbia, SC USA Post Number: 12761 Registered: Dec-03 | PS, look at DLS or CDT for the 3-way separates Look at DEI companies like Orion or PPI for the amps, or Alpine, or whatever appeals to you. Try to buy good gear though. Cheap amps mean cheap power supplies, and they won't have the reserve power for sudden peak demands. That will result in a flat 2 dimensional sound |
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New member Username: Bathory610Post Number: 4 Registered: Mar-10 | based on what everyone has said (invaluable info) here is what ive come up with, see what you guys think. Sub- http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_id=2030 box- http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_id=3521 3 way to replace 6x8 and 8" door sub - http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_id=1094 amp for door speakers- http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_id=1094 amp for sub- http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/store/products/Sundown-Audio-SAZ%252d1500D.ht ml rear speakers (powered by HU) http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_id=3060 Head unit - http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_id=8519 What do you guys think? have i left anything out? Anything you would change? |
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Silver Member Username: SkdooleyRoanoke, VA Usa Post Number: 464 Registered: Oct-09 | Great sub. If doing a single 10 you may want to go ported. You may also look into having a custom enclosure built. It will be better constructed and can be built to your listening needs. Contact Dustin, he makes awesome enclosures. (dlaudiotech@gmail.com) Good choice in speakers. Nice sub amp but a 1500 may be a little much for the single 10. The link for your amp for the door speakers is the same as the speakers. Sweet deck. Have you decided on what wire you are going to run through the car? 1/0 guage would be good. Do a distribution block set up in the back for the 2 amps. |
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New member Username: Bathory610Post Number: 5 Registered: Mar-10 | here is the amp for the 3 way component (oops) 200 watts each with gain turned down? http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_id=4683 I thought the RMS on the sub was 1000 at 2ohms, and that 1500 puts out 800 watts at 2 ohms, is this not correct or even wrong? Thanks for the email, i was wondering about an enclosure. About the wiring, i have no idea, 1/0 gauge is best for this setup? and how much dynamate stuff do i need to ensure i dont rattle to death? |
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Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfColumbia, SC USA Post Number: 12771 Registered: Dec-03 | my thoughts: go with a ported box and tune it to about 34Hz the Orion is a very good amp, and if you choose to go front stage only, you cn bridge that to 2 channels and give the 3-ways more juice, leaving the option open later for rears. I'm not a fan of Kenwood. I'd look at Alpine or Pioneer first as for the rear fill.. read this article please. I wrote it some time back regarding the choise to use rear fill speakers: http://www.glasswolf.net/papers/rearfill.html After you've read that, should you still want rears, go with a straight midrange driver instead of coaxials, and wire them in series with the rear channels of the Orion bridged mono to keep them at the same power, but in mono instead of stereo. This will prevent ruining your lovely front stage. I'd go with the 1/0 wiring just so it's there when you choose to upgrade. Then just split to smaller 4 gauge or 8 gauge at the distribution block in the back (fused block to protect the amps) |
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New member Username: Bathory610Post Number: 6 Registered: Mar-10 | k, very insightful glasswolf! i took the rear speakers out, and with the money saved i upgraded to a different headunit as well. http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_id=8493 And what is the benefit of say this box over a sealed? http://www.woofersetc.com/p7418/SQP10SPL--Ground-Shaker-10"-Single-Ported-H igh-SPL-Box.htm |
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Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfColumbia, SC USA Post Number: 12773 Registered: Dec-03 | mmm be really careful going with a prefab box when it's ported. That description has no mention of to what frequency the port is tuned, and since it's a slot port you can't adjust it. (a tube port, you can take it out and cut it to the length you desire to tune the box.) I'm guessing if it's a "high SPL" box, it's going to be tuned high, like 45-55Hz, and honestly that's a crappy place for music. It makes the box sound very boomy and warm. Lots of midbass, which you REALLY don't need with that 3-way front stage. Look at having a box built for you that's tuned to your IDMax sub @ 34Hz, or get a box with a port that can be adjusted. You'll thank me when it's tuned and installed. When you set the crossovers for the amplifiers, take note of these settings, and use them as a starting point for dialing everything in: HPF (high pass): 80Hz, 12dB/octave Q (slope), no cut/boost/bass boost, phase @ zero LPF (low pass/subs) 50Hz, 18dB slope/Q, zero phase, no bass boost (they always center bass boost on an amplifier around 45Hz which sucks) and no cut/boost. set the gain or input sensitivity on both amplifiers to one quarter turn up (clockwise) and no higher, unless you have access to a scope and DMM to set the gains properly. This will prevent the amps from clipping or being overdriven and damaging the speakers. the gap between 80Hz and 50Hz will be filled with the roll-off between the midbass driver in teh door and the subwoofer due to the Q factor used for each cutoff point. You don't want both HPF and LPF set to the same frequency as this causes a warm spot where both speakers cover the dame ranges as they roll off. It gives a warm sound, and often lets the midrange/midbass play too low causing distortion. I like that Alpine, too ^^ You have a truly sweet setup laid out there. |
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Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfColumbia, SC USA Post Number: 12774 Registered: Dec-03 | PS, thank you for serving. |