The ask glasswolf thread
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Silver Member Username: Gcs8Atlanta, Ga Post Number: 309 Registered: Sep-09 | just because i can. you have no obligation to answer this thread but for the more tech questions maybe more direct. |
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Platinum Member Username: Rovin1 15 = 152.5 DBs ...Trinidad & T... Post Number: 16080 Registered: Jul-05 | the guy asked u specifically not to do it & yet u did u are fairly recent here & iirc probably yrs ago he said he prefers to not have too many ppl hounding like the paparazzi with a bunch of questions ... |
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Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfColumbia, SC USA Post Number: 12512 Registered: Dec-03 | lol no big deal. I'll try to answer whatever I can when I get the time. |
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Platinum Member Username: Rovin1 15 = 152.5 DBs ...Trinidad & T... Post Number: 16082 Registered: Jul-05 | ok cool ... |
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Diamond Member Username: WingmanaliveWww.stainles... .ecrater.com Post Number: 22443 Registered: Jun-06 | Just for my own Info Glass. What are you currently running in your car and what HT setup do you have? I forgo reading profiles due to the ever changing nature of such things. Nice to see you back in the waves here on E so to speak. |
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Diamond Member Username: WingmanaliveWww.stainles... .ecrater.com Post Number: 22444 Registered: Jun-06 | There are MANY members I miss. |
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Gold Member Username: Van_manBoston South, MA Post Number: 5212 Registered: Mar-06 | Ok, Glasswolf, I got this red rash spot thing on my arm. What do you think it could be? |
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Diamond Member Username: WingmanaliveWww.stainles... .ecrater.com Post Number: 22446 Registered: Jun-06 | Spray it with windex. |
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Silver Member Username: Gcs8Atlanta, Ga Post Number: 310 Registered: Sep-09 | Yah I know he did ask me not to but it sounded more like a "oh no don't make me watch tv" type of statement, but I did tell him he didn't haft to answer if he didn't want to. I do have a random question for him though, I drive a Camry and currently have 2 12's in the back in a ported box and have the rear 6x9's pulled out, should I leave them open or seal them up or just be lazy and crack the smaller of the two fold down seats for the best sound out put? also in the near future I am getting the new fi Q will the same apply to it as well. |
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Gold Member Username: Livin_loudMW2 Addict Post Number: 3076 Registered: Jan-06 | http://www.glasswolf.net/ i'm unsure of how up to date it is, but here ya go. |
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Silver Member Username: Gcs8Atlanta, Ga Post Number: 312 Registered: Sep-09 | ^^ has some nice computer systems, whats your current high end computer glasswolf? |
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Gold Member Username: BonhamdTraverse City, MI Post Number: 2099 Registered: Nov-07 | glasswolf did a new job take you to SC? Where did you live in MI? |
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Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfColumbia, SC USA Post Number: 12513 Registered: Dec-03 | site is prety up to date. my main computer is still that Q6600 at the top of the tech page. HT and car are on the site, and directly linked in my profile here.. it's easier to list the link than it is to keep updating profiles on forums. I was outside Ludington, MI. Got tired of all the snow. Car: Pioneer Premier DEX-P9 AM/FM/CD Pioneer Premier DEQ-P9 DSP Orion 2250SX amplifier (250WRMS x 2 @ 4 ohms stereo) DynAudio System 360 front stage Orion 2250SX amplifier (1500WRMS x 1 @ 4 ohms bridged) One Fi Q18 subwoofer, sealed Home: TV/Monitor Samsung PN58C8000 - 58" plasma 1080P F3DHD HDTV (May 2010) AV Receiver Onkyo TX-NR5007 Onkyo UP-HT1 - HD Radio Tuner DVD Panasonic DMP-BD55K Blu-Ray DVD DVR HR23/700 DirecTV HD DVR LDP Panasonic LX-H670U laserdisc VCR Toshiba W808 6-head HiFi S-VHS recorder Turntable Ion USB belt-drive turntable Tape deck Nakamichi DR-1 Discrete 3-head tape deck Control Logitech Harmony 900 Remote Speakers 7.1 A/V speaker setup KEF Reference Series 104/2 Raymond Cooke Limited Edition, bi-amp Pinnacle P-5.5 center-channel Polk Audio FXi3 dipole surrounds Polk Audio FXi3 bipole rear surrounds Energy e:XL-S12 powered subwoofer 2.0 audio critical listening Krell KSA-200 amplifier KnuKoceptz Karma SS 10AWG speaker wire 10' each, with eKs banana plugs Martin Logan Vantage mains, cherry finish Iinterconnects KnuKonceptz |
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Gold Member Username: Livin_loudMW2 Addict Post Number: 3077 Registered: Jan-06 | anybody jealous? <-- i know this guy is. |
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Silver Member Username: Gcs8Atlanta, Ga Post Number: 313 Registered: Sep-09 | you do any over clocking glasswolf? |
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Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfColumbia, SC USA Post Number: 12527 Registered: Dec-03 | some. the q6600 is stable at 3.4GHz. I don't really go out of my way to do it though, like water cooling etc. |
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Platinum Member Username: Basshead86Steady as she goes Post Number: 11024 Registered: Aug-05 | i wish i was computer savvy like knowing how to do all that stuff. I wold like to build my own computer one day, but i wouldnt know where to begin. |
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Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfColumbia, SC USA Post Number: 12539 Registered: Dec-03 | oh computers aren't really too difficult to pick up. there are so, so many guides to doing that stuff on the net now. Not like when I started soldering RAM upgrades into, and swapping processors on old atari 8-bits in the 80s |
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Platinum Member Username: Basshead86Steady as she goes Post Number: 11040 Registered: Aug-05 | nice!! |
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Bronze Member Username: LmsPost Number: 57 Registered: May-08 | Glasswolf, it's great to see that you're back. I have a couple questions for you. I own an arc 2500xx that's pushing two sealed10" idmaxes. From your experience with amps, which amp if switched for the arc should give me a noticeable improvement in sq. (final load is 4 ohms) 1. a single ppi pc 21400 series 2. Two art series a600's, one per sub. 3. A zapco DC reference 1100.1 (equalization disabled) 4. Two jl hd750.1, one per sub 5. jl 1000/1 second question; Would trading an 18 inch ascendant audio avalanche for an fi q 18 (stock) be a loss or gain on my part. Lastly, are there any significant advantages of digital processors over analog, except for the time alignment feature? Thanks |
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Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfColumbia, SC USA Post Number: 12544 Registered: Dec-03 | hmm. well, generally changing amps won't really improve SQ when you're talking all higher end gear anyway. Richard Clark more or less proved that any two amps putting out the same power, and playing *within their limits* will sound exactly the same. The trick to that is that an amp is measured for the most part, by it's power supply, and cheap amps have woefully inadequate power supplies. An amp needs to have a huge power supply in order to have enough reserve power to run low impedances, and supply brief, clean bursts of power when needed. That's one argument for running amps at 4 ohms in cars instead of 2 ohms.. but that aside, since I'm rambling now, you really won't hear an improvement in SQ by changing amps. What you can do though is add more power. with those two 18s, the Q is designed for SQ. tight motor control and smooth BL curve. You'll get a different response going to the Q, although probably not any louder. If it's better, that would be a matter of your ears in this case. When I chose the Q, I was going for SQ, not at all concerned with SPL, since I knew with an 18" sub, even sealed, with almost 1500 watts of class AB power driving it, I'd have enough volume in any event. I was also pairing the sub to a set of DynAudio fronts, which have a very shallow slope crossover, and are very laid back and smooth.. so really not an aggressive, bright hard-edged sort of setup in my case. I'm getting older, and I like my Floyd, Steeley Dan, and Sarah McLachlan, etc.. so while Ozzy and the Crystal Method are fun now and then, for long trips, I like something a little less on edge. Now, for digital processors, I'm a big fan for a number of reasons. one is that they don't use up as much juice as conventional analog processors do since you're not losing energy to heat across every coil, resistor, and cap in a passive filter network. another thing I like is that unlike a resistor or capacitor, there is in phase shift using an electronic digital signal processor. Lastly, the digital units are just smaller, and far more advanced in what they allow you to do than something like a set of EQTs. I have some EQTs and love them, but really, the DSP I use now is so far beyond those, it's crazy. |
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Bronze Member Username: LmsPost Number: 58 Registered: May-08 | Your response really helped clear things up.. I do have a pair of eqt's ( the first version made and the concert series), but i may very well look into the dqxs by the same company. I initially wanted to try the alpine h701, but i'm hearing that they have a persisting high noise floor. Your dyn comp is 3-way as i can recall. And i know that 3-way's tend to do a better job at covering the higher freq. bandwidth than 2-way's., if properly placed and tuned. Do they offer a 2-way component that sound really smooth, airy and detailed. I really want to avoid actively processing them. I've heard that the polk sr6500, focal polyglass and dls iridium set are really good just out of the box. Any input will be appreciated. |
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Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfColumbia, SC USA Post Number: 12549 Registered: Dec-03 | the Iridiums are really nice. So were the Rainbow high end line when you could find them. Try these: http://www.dynaudio.com/eng/auto/esotec/242.php |
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Silver Member Username: Wackzirth88K-town, Il U.S. Post Number: 323 Registered: May-09 | i already made a thread asking this but no one has respond yet so i figured id just copy it over here and ask glasswolf the fuses in my amp blew today. the amp is an rd audio 1000.1 version 1, its been playing fine for the last two week and before that(probably around 3 months) when i had it my car. I was driving to school today klistening to music and the bass just cut outta no near.the amp shut off. so when i get home i check all the wires, everything is fine power and grounds all tight. then i find that the fuses blew. i changed the fuses and plugged the amp back in and it powered on. i didnt hook the subs back up to it cuz idk wat the problem is. only mismatch i could think of is my inline fuse is a 150a and the amp is 3x30. |
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Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfColumbia, SC USA Post Number: 12668 Registered: Dec-03 | could be that the amp's gain is set too high and clipping caused the fuses to go. could just be there was a spike in current demand, or the fuses went out over a long period of time. most people don't really understand how a fuse works. they are rated to blow after a specified period of time at a specified % of current over their rating.. the higher the %, the shorter the time span before they go. if you're drawing say 10% over rated current, the fuse can blow after 10 or 15 minutes and not instantly. things to consider anyway. |
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Silver Member Username: Gcs8Atlanta, Ga Post Number: 328 Registered: Sep-09 | Fuse Opening Time: A fuse does not blow when the current reaches its rated current. It is designed to pass its rated current without opening. A fuse will take varying times to blow under different conditions. A fuse will pass significantly more than its rated current for a very short time. It may take 10 minutes or more to blow a fuse at 25% over its rated current. The table below is an example of the specifications for a slow blow fuse. You can see that a 20 amp fuse may pass 40 amps of current for as long as 5 minutes before blowing although it probably wouldn't take a full 5 minutes to blow. The times for other fuses will be slightly different. %of amp rating Opening time 110% 4 hours minimum 135% 1 hour maximum 200% 5 minutes maximum |
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Silver Member Username: Wackzirth88K-town, Il U.S. Post Number: 324 Registered: May-09 | the gain is set exactly half up, twelve o'clock, whatever u want to call it. i used to have the gain set higher. im going to hook the subs back up tomorrow and see if it holds up. |
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Silver Member Username: CozceSt. Louis ILLside, Pronounced: ... U.S.A. Post Number: 873 Registered: Mar-08 | I love this guy he's beast |
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Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfColumbia, SC USA Post Number: 12678 Registered: Dec-03 | that quote looks very familiar. I believe that bit on fuses was from Basic Car Audio & Electronics. Good section there. Try turning the gains to 1/4 instead of 1/2 see how it does. If your head unit has 4V pre-outs, 1/2 may still be too high. Note on fuses, it also depends on the type of fuse (fast acting, slow blow, etc) as to how quickly they respond to over-current. |
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Silver Member Username: Wackzirth88K-town, Il U.S. Post Number: 325 Registered: May-09 | My hu only has 2 volt preouts, it's an alpine cda 9883. Should I still turn the gain down? I'm goin to be puttin the amp in my girlfriends car. It'll be pushing a single kicker cvr at 1 ohm so it'll be turned down quite a bit.I just hope the amp ist done for. |
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Silver Member Username: Gcs8Atlanta, Ga Post Number: 335 Registered: Sep-09 | hey glasswolf could you give me your thoughts on this http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=295-492 |
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Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfColumbia, SC USA Post Number: 12690 Registered: Dec-03 | ah, well without access to a scope and DMM, then yeah half way may be fine. just see what the amp's gain knob has for min and max input voltages, and try to guesstimate 2V. Just remember the gain isn't used as a power adjustment or a volume control. the purpose is to match the line voltage to the input stage of the amplifier. if the gain is too high, the amplifier will clip. If gain is set too low, you'll be amplifying a weak signal, and lowering your S/N ratio, getting more noise and less signal. Radiators are OK. They basically work like a ported enclosure. They add efficiency at a tuned frequency based on the driver T/S specs and enclosure volume. I have a passive radiator in my Jeep (infinity basslink) that works pretty well. |
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Silver Member Username: SkdooleyRoanoke, VA Usa Post Number: 429 Registered: Oct-09 | Muddy, Newegg.com is a great site to look at if you're interested in building your own computer. They have every part you need. You just read the stats on the different components and make sure they're compatible. That may be the trickiest part of it. |
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Silver Member Username: Armykyle1Ms Us Post Number: 937 Registered: Dec-08 | Hey glass wolf! I have CD 8053 and I'm trying to set it up in pro mode and I have no idea what I'm doing. Time shift phase ect. I might just get rid of it. I'm too stupid lol. Ever messed with one? Side note. In the near future I want to get louder yet maintain SQ. Current setup is 2 D6 12s ported on spec on a BXi2608d I set it for around 1800rms never higher than 2k. This is in a trunk(limited to about 10 cubes). I'm thinking 4 D6s or 2 15s (low FS high xmax) along the lines of the RL-p series subs. Or maybe an 18. I'll double power prolly 2 BXi2608d amps. Any ideas? |
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Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfColumbia, SC USA Post Number: 12723 Registered: Dec-03 | RL-p or Fi SSD would be great subs. the fifteens or 18 would do well with good power. As for the source, I'd have to look at the manual for that model. time delay evens out preceived distance per speaker. phase adjusts for off-axis speakers, which is common in a car since you can't point every speaker directly at you, and even if you could, things like passive crossovers still introduce phase shifts. |
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Gold Member Username: Snowball123West Allis, WI Post Number: 3474 Registered: Oct-07 | Glasswolf the forum saver? |
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Silver Member Username: Armykyle1Ms Us Post Number: 938 Registered: Dec-08 | Ahhh. I'm starting to understand. I feel smarter lol. So you would lean towards 2 15s or 1 18 vs 4 12s? If I do the 18 I'd prolly have to fire it up. Not sure how that would sound. |
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Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfColumbia, SC USA Post Number: 12731 Registered: Dec-03 | considered down firing? I have a single 18 in my car firing up. it works well. |
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Silver Member Username: Armykyle1Ms Us Post Number: 940 Registered: Dec-08 | Max height is aourn 18" How would I go about down firing in a trunk? Same as the do in trucks? |
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Silver Member Username: Wackzirth88K-town, Il U.S. Post Number: 327 Registered: May-09 | hey glasswolf im looking to upgrade my alternator. I have a 1999 ford contour 4 cyclinder, 2.0 liter. Im running a sundown sae-1200(1500 rms at 1 ohm), i have a kinetik hc1400 in the trunk. My voltages usually stays in the 13s, but on lower hitting stuff like young jeezy and wat not the voltage gets down in the 12s so i back off the volume a bit but i really enjoy to listen to it at higher volumes. . Im wanting to add an amp for my front stage and know my electrical isnt goin to sustain it. so basically im wondering ur opinion on this alt http://www.db-starter-alternator.com/Items/ho-8250-200%20amp?&caSKU=ho-8250-200% 20amp&caTitle=FORD%20CONTOUR%202.0L%20HIGH%20OUTPUT%20200%20AMP%20ALTERNATOR%209 8%2099%2000%20%208250 they also have a 220 amp alt for like 40 more so id pry get that if theyre worth a dam. also open to suggestions if u got any but im tryin to stay around 200-300 dollars |
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Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfColumbia, SC USA Post Number: 12739 Registered: Dec-03 | is the voltage still dropping with the engine running and above idle, say in the 1500rpm range? if so, go for the 220A alternator. going bigger won't hurt anything. also yes, downfiring just like in a truck. you just stand the box off the floor about 4-6" |
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Silver Member Username: Wackzirth88K-town, Il U.S. Post Number: 330 Registered: May-09 | yea voltage still drops when its running and above idle just not near as bad. when i bump at idle its only at lower volumes like mid-volume at most.if im driving the voltage is pretty consistant at higher volumes, with exception of certain songs(low continous beat [basically my favorites]0. and i usually turn the bass remote down at stops so im not killing my alt. it gets annoying. and yea id spend the extra for the 220A alt. but as far as the company and quality, u think that alt would be fine? |
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Silver Member Username: Armykyle1Ms Us Post Number: 941 Registered: Dec-08 | I'd have to make the box extremely shallow for that. I have around 18" to clear. In some spots 20". I could make a bump in the box to clear the motor? Or I could fire into the spare tire well? What about port direction? |
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Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfColumbia, SC USA Post Number: 12748 Registered: Dec-03 | zack it does sound like you need a bigger alternator, and one that puts out better amperage even at idle. I haven't used DBalt, so I can't say from experience. kyle, it was just a suggestion. if it won't fit, then go with what works for you. |
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Silver Member Username: Armykyle1Ms Us Post Number: 942 Registered: Dec-08 | The depth of the 18 I'm lookin at is around 11". FS 19hz xmax 30mm. |
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Silver Member Username: Wackzirth88K-town, Il U.S. Post Number: 337 Registered: May-09 | so i still have questions on the enclosure tricks thread relating to the polyfill. 1.)when using rolled fiberglass in a ported box, do u use faced or unfaced? 2.)how thick, just the 3.5 inch stuff(thinest it comes)? reason i ask is my current box is 3 cu ft tuned to 31 hz with 43 sq in of port(slot port) for 2 12s. i made this box to spec for my orions except i tuned it lower then recommended. now im looking into gettin 2 12 incriminator audio lethal injections- recommended box is 1.75-2.x cu ft each, xx-40 sq inch of port(put xx because im not positive wat the first number was i believe it was 15 or something). my box is really a pain to get in my trunk, i have to take off the back seats to slide it in put the seats back on. so basically im wondering if my box would work if i put some polyfill in in it.only need .5 cu ft increase to meet IAs recommended enclosure.....otherwise i think ill have to build a new enclosure with an aero port to utilize my space better. |
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Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfColumbia, SC USA Post Number: 12789 Registered: Dec-03 | polyfill, not fiberglass, sir. go to a Joannes fabrics or walmart and buy polyfill stuffing batting (it comes on a roll) it only comes in one size I believe. Get that, and just line the inside of the box with it. If you like, you can pull it a bit once it's stapled in place, so it's fluffier.. the reason you want the batting is just to keep it from blowing out othe port opening. I made the mistake of using loose polyfill in a ported box once... once. |
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Silver Member Username: Wackzirth88K-town, Il U.S. Post Number: 339 Registered: May-09 | that's funny. So do u think my enclosure would work for the lethal injections if I line it wit the poly batting |
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Gold Member Username: Crayola0Portage, Wisconsin Post Number: 2627 Registered: Jun-06 | this is prolly a noob question but im just checking. when inverting subs do u have to reverse the polarity? |
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New member Username: Sir_chronos04Post Number: 1 Registered: Apr-10 | ok I just have a question please. I have 2 12" Kicker cvr 4ohm dvc and I am getting the Planet Audio tq 1201d will this amp push my kickers at max potential at a 2ohm setting? |
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Silver Member Username: JbpittPittsburgh, Pa. Usa Post Number: 300 Registered: Jul-09 | Ok i need to pick your brain glasswolf. I have a 06 Nissan Murano S. Now my radio,heat an all other controls an functions are displayed on a little monitor. Im trying to figure out a way to get a aftermarket hu in there without screwing up all my other controls. Ive been looking,but i cant realy find any info on it. I guess my question is,how can i do it without losing or screwing up my other controls and if its not possible to put a hu in there,what are my other options? Thanks |
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Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfColumbia, SC USA Post Number: 12794 Registered: Dec-03 | zack: all the polyfill does is cause the encolsure to look about 10% larger than it's actual volume to the speakers. typically, you really don't even need to use polyfill. J, if you're just flipping the sub around and mounting it magnet structure out, then no. If you are installing two subs face to face in a clamshell isobaric design, then yes one has to be out of phase so they move the same direction at the same time. D: one pair of 4 ohm DVC subs will present either a 1 ohm or 4 ohm final load to a mono amp. you'll need a 2 channel amp, or two 2-ohm stable mono amps, or a single 1-ohm stable mono amp to drive that setup. You'd be better off with a pair of 2 ohm DVC subs if you have one 2-ohm stable mono amp. two options, Sean. 1: if you like the factory radio but want to add amps and such, look at using an interface like the PAC OEM-1, JL Audio Cleansweep, or whatever AudioControl's equivalent is. This interfaces a factory source to line outs and supplies remote trigger so you can run amplifiers, subs, components etc. Makes everything nice and stealthy, too. 2. If you really don't like the factory radio, you'll need a special T-harness adapter that bypasses the radio installed in hte car and gives you the wiring you need to add the additional aftermarket radio. The trick is finding a place to mount it since the factory radio will still be in the car. |
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Silver Member Username: Gcs8Atlanta, Ga Post Number: 353 Registered: Sep-09 | Hey glasswolf I hate to ask this of you but do u think you could do a Wright up of your way of setting gains and tuning? |
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Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfColumbia, SC USA Post Number: 12800 Registered: Dec-03 | I use an oscilloscope and a DMM to set gains on car amps, but there are plenty of FAQs and How To articles on-line for this already. Just google it If you still can't find one, let me know and I'll look one up for you when I get time. |
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Gold Member Username: Van_manBoston South, MA Post Number: 5247 Registered: Mar-06 | Say, Do you know anything about this amp? Phillips sound labs A4100 Designed and engineered in the USA. 2/3/4 (5 or 6) channel     Thanks, Marc. |
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Platinum Member Username: Nyyfan13Northern VA Post Number: 11857 Registered: Jul-06 | Hey Glass, I have this weird rash around my junk. Do you know of any natural remedies? |
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Gold Member Username: Wolf_houndPhoenix, AZ Post Number: 1168 Registered: Sep-05 | lmao^^^ i was gonna post something similar to that when i saw this thread. |
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Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfColumbia, SC USA Post Number: 12808 Registered: Dec-03 | Dio, not familiar with that specific amp, but it looks nice. From the looks of that PCB, I'd guess a production era of say.. mid 90s maybe? It looks older, but a pretty clean amp. 100W x 4? Yanks Fan, I was told once by a shaman that you can massage that rash away.. so just you know.. rub at it a lot. |
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Silver Member Username: JbpittPittsburgh, Pa. Usa Post Number: 301 Registered: Jul-09 | Thanks glasswolf,yea im thinking im just going to keep the factory radio in there. Its pretty nice an i dont realy want to mess with everything in there either. Now is this going to sound just as good as a aftermarket hu,or pretty close to it? Ive been looking at some,and im clueless as to which one im going to need. Can you set me up with a couple links to what i need? Very much appreciate the help,thanks |
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Silver Member Username: Boston_splHighland, CA United States Post Number: 155 Registered: Nov-08 | Quick question... I'm about to start a box build for my Kicker CVX 15" in the next few days (5.0cu.ft. ported). I have pretty much everything I need except for the box terminals. I'm thinking of just getting a pair of binding posts to stick through the box, instead of a standard (cheap) plastic terminal cup (which is what I've always used in the past.) My question is: Should I go with gold plated, nickel plated, or satin nickel binding posts? (from Parts-Express.com, same place I'll be buying a 6" aero port from). http://www.parts-express.com/wizards/searchResults.cfm?srchExt=CAT&srchCat=107 Is there any real difference in conductivity between the three or is the difference simply cosmetic? Should I even go with binding posts? Thanks in advance, man! |
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Gold Member Username: Van_manBoston South, MA Post Number: 5250 Registered: Mar-06 | "Ok, Glasswolf, I got this red rash spot thing on my arm. What do you think it could be?" "Hey Glass, I have this weird rash around my junk. Do you know of any natural remedies?" OK, Its not what you think.... I thought you said it was a birthmark John...not an infectious rash.. |
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Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfColumbia, SC USA Post Number: 12823 Registered: Dec-03 | Sean, if the cleansweep is set up properly, it should sound terrific. with digital media these days, it's not as hard to match things up as it was with lossy analog stuff back in the tape deck days. Chris, go with the binding posts, and if you like, banana plugs. I love em. Just be careful not to let the plugs touch each other on the amp-side. I dropped a set once and fried an orion amp that way. sad days. LOL I had to take it apart and replace half the finals in that thing after that "oops." The trick is to use molded banana plugs where the left/right plugs are a single piece so they can't touch. Also use gold. it's not the best conductor (copper and silver are superior) but gold is maleable so it forms to teh connection, and mostly, gold is a noble metal, so it never tarnishes in humidity, which is your enemy in car audio. Dio. it was kinda both. infected at birth |
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Silver Member Username: Wackzirth88K-town, Il U.S. Post Number: 341 Registered: May-09 | ok i did my big 3 upgrade a few months back in all 0 gauge wire. today i called ohio gen for a price on a HO alt and he asked me if i did the big 3 and what not. i told him i did and he asked if i used 0 gauge bewteen the battery and alt so i answer yes. then he tells me i should drop that down to 4 gauge because 0 gauge isnt enough resistance and cause something(he called the part by name i just forgot) to go bad and that i dont need a in line fuse between the alt and battery. im not doubting his knowledge one bit im just curious because everyone that suggests doing the big 3 upgrade recommends 0 gauge |
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Silver Member Username: JbpittPittsburgh, Pa. Usa Post Number: 305 Registered: Jul-09 | Ok cool,thanks. There seems to be quite a few of them availible though. Not realy sure which one to buy,or what to look for. You have any suggestions on what model i need or what option i should look for? Money is realy no issue,as long as its going to sound good... Thanks again for all your help |
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Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfColumbia, SC USA Post Number: 12838 Registered: Dec-03 | voltage regulator? was that waht he said? I don't see any issue with using 0 gauge wire, honestly. I don't see how wire can have too little resistance. The fuse is there to protect the car from fire in case the wire comes loose from the terminal, or something falls on a terminal and causes a dead short. put the fuse in there. If you're drawing over 1Kw of power with the amps (over 100A of current for the audio alone) you want larger than 4AWG wire for the 12+ foot runs, but for a run of about 2 feet or less, 4AWG should be fine if you want to go that route. Sean, hte cleansweep you go with is really a matter of what fits your needs or tastes. See waht looks appropriate to you or talk to a JL dealer and have them suggest one for ya. Hell, e-mail JL and ask.. They're very helpful |
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Silver Member Username: Wackzirth88K-town, Il U.S. Post Number: 343 Registered: May-09 | i think it was. its only around 4 ft of wire between my alt and battery and im running 1500 rms. if 0 gauge is good then im leaving it. another question is if i have an extra battery in the trunk, do i need a inline fuse between that battery and the amp. i put one because thats how it showed to do it on bcae. but the guy said i dont need that there either |
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Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfColumbia, SC USA Post Number: 12841 Registered: Dec-03 | yes use a fuse there for the same reason. to protect from fire in case of a short. I'd also use a battery isolator to isolate the audio battery from the starter battery. |
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Silver Member Username: Wackzirth88K-town, Il U.S. Post Number: 346 Registered: May-09 | thats wat i figured right after i posted it.. jw but why do u suggest an isolator? im not trying to be a smart a$s at all i just dont know how to explain it so that i dont sound like im tryin to be, so please dont take it that way. but from wat i read on bcae, it'll be fine if im not listening to the music with the engine off, whch i never do so i thought id be all good. |
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Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfColumbia, SC USA Post Number: 12856 Registered: Dec-03 | whenever you use two batteries in a car for an audio system, a battery isolator allows you to dedicate one to audio, and one to starting the car. This way if you run a deep cycle audio battery into the ground listening to the stereo while you're making out with the GF one night.. you don't wind up stranded in the woods somewhere.. Your car will still start! the isolator just prevents the two batteries from seeing each other. If you don't plan to run the system with the engine off for long periods, then the second battery is a moot point anyway. Get a larger alternator and not two batteries. If you do get a second battery, get a battery box for it too. This will protect people in the car in case teh battery begins gassing. car batteries produce hydrogen gas when they are charged too quickly, or drained and recharged too often, etc.. and they begin to fail. If they are not sealed off from the cabin, and vented outside the car, that colorless, odorless gas will kill you. |
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Silver Member Username: Gcs8Atlanta, Ga Post Number: 358 Registered: Sep-09 | I believe you are talking about Hydrogen gas with is flammable as well. that's why I drive stick, free jump. |
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Silver Member Username: Wackzirth88K-town, Il U.S. Post Number: 349 Registered: May-09 | that makes sense, lol me and my gf live together so no long make outs in the woods with the car off, got a whole house for that. do sealed batteries like kinetiks or xs power gas also? and i realize now the money i spent on batteries would have paid for a bigger alt....got the money now so i am looking at some, doing alot of researching and reading now. will have one soon. |
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Gold Member Username: Kyle_lowePost Number: 1009 Registered: Apr-06 | glasswolf, did the font on this forum get smaller for you today? |
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Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfColumbia, SC USA Post Number: 12858 Registered: Dec-03 | Brian (eCoustics owner) is making some changes to the baord. I love the new look. The fonts look about the same to me. If they changed, it wasn't by more than about 1pt. Any lead-acid battery will gas, although some of the dry cell batteries like Optima claim they won't. They are much more resistant to gassing than a typical starter battery. It's still a good idea to keep them in a battery box though, if for no other reason tahn to keep them from sliding around in the trunk. If your trunk is sealed from the cabin, that would help, too. If not, the box is really the way to go. Safer, and cleaner looking. |
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Silver Member Username: Wackzirth88K-town, Il U.S. Post Number: 352 Registered: May-09 | alright. i have a kinetik thats y i was wonderin on that. yea my battery isnt just sitting there. i built a tray or rack for it out of mdf comes up like 2 inchs on all sides and its a perfect fit so theres not really room for it to slide in the rack its self. then i ran a rachet strap under the rack then screwed the rack down and ran the strap around the batt and tightened it down..that works? |
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Silver Member Username: Gcs8Atlanta, Ga Post Number: 360 Registered: Sep-09 | only thing I would worry about would be if you got in a crash the physics of the crash might set it free, in my g/f's last wreck she knocked components off a PCB. It totaled her car though just remember to fuse. |
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Silver Member Username: Wackzirth88K-town, Il U.S. Post Number: 354 Registered: May-09 | well it has a much smaller chance of gettin set free in a crash. i have 4 sheet metal screws holdin it down. the ratchet strap is ran under the rack with 2 screws on each side. and as for the fuse have one between the batt under the hood to the batt to the trunk and then another fuse between that batt and the amp. and whose to say wat will happen IF i crash- first off i could die, i could total my car, could kill someone else, could ruin all my stereo equiptment, and possibly even get trapped in my car while its on fire....the wat ifs are endless. i know/hope its pretty secure.. also hope i dont crash. thanks for the concern tho |
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Silver Member Username: Wackzirth88K-town, Il U.S. Post Number: 355 Registered: May-09 | Hey I got something real weird goin on in my gfs car. Today I wentt to put a rd 1000.1 in her car. Amp turned on fine, I tested the subs ohm load with the car off it was .9 to 1.0 but when I turned on the car the impedence went to negative 23. So I went and grabbed a differet sub that works fine and it did the same thing. Swopped out the amp and test the impedence and got the same results. Any ideas? Thanks |
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Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfColumbia, SC USA Post Number: 12886 Registered: Dec-03 | impedance isn't a constant. it varies with the frequency the speaker is producing. |
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Silver Member Username: Wackzirth88K-town, Il U.S. Post Number: 356 Registered: May-09 | Lol wow I feel dumb now but I'll admit it. I just thought to myself it's probably the rcas. I kno I had them right on the amp but I don't think I double checked the hu.may of had them wrong or possibly bad, theyre some cheap boss ones so. |
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Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfColumbia, SC USA Post Number: 12894 Registered: Dec-03 | knukonceptz.com's eKs line are really nice. I used all eKs series interconects for my home theatre setup, and built my speaker cables with their stuff, too. |
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