So I'm going to go with two L7 Kickers, but am unsure if I should go with one amp or two amps. I used to go with California Profile amps but they went out of business any ideas on which amp to get also?
I know the older kickers where better sealed are the L7's also better sealed?
I know the RMS is 750 but also like the older kickers said lower then what they really could take so can it take a constant of 1000 and peak of like 2000?
If your stuck on the L7s you definatly want them in a ported box. I went from sealed to ported with mine and they were WAY louder! Now that being said,there are loud but dont sound very good(no sq at all!) So,I would suggest you look into a different sub,theres much better out there for the money your gonna pay for those. As far as an amp goes,that would depend on which ones you get. dual 2 or dual 4?
Well I called around and found a dealer that is gonna get me 2 15inch L7 Kickers for 280 a piece...now I just need to decide on an amp or amps plus should I get a farad cap or not?
I was thinking about 2, 2000wat Hifonics for the beast
Loud, I'm not the best with acronyms..so I'm gonna guess not.
I just totaled my car so I'm trying to work on getting a new on...but space wouldn't matter I've tore out the back seats in cars before so I could fit speakers.
~>>>>I'm still unconvinced that Kicker Sub woofers aren't any good.
Their square subs suffer from limited excursion due to their shape and design, as well as issues with cone distortion (also due to a non-round shape exerting uneven pressure around the perimeter of the cone) and have, for years, had issues with tinsel lead slap and separation, as well as surround separation failures. All of those issues aside, they just aren't a very accurate sub. If all you want is loud and cheap, then they're your sub, or maybe a MoFo or FUBR or similar product targeted at that demographic, but if you want tight control and a clean sounding, detailed sub, look elsewhere.
That leaves $873 for front stage, small front stage amp, HU, and a nice box
You wrote about 2 2000 watt hifonics beasts.......hifonics is a budget brand. on top of being a budget brand, you will need a lot of electrical upgrades (HO alt, batts, extra wire, etc) to run anything of that magnitude
with that remainder, figure $50 for box supplies if you build your own $200-300 for a 4 channel amp (bridge it if you forgo rear fill) the remainder will cover a nice 2-way set of components from someone like Focal.
can you provide links with those models Daniel, and I see what your saying Glasswolf..that's why I cam here so I didn't spend 2grand and get a piss junk system.
check out their equipment. very soild, good price, great customer service. they are tough to beat for the money
the L7s are not piss junk in my opinion. many people hate on them, but i owned 2 15s myself, years ago. im just saying that they are overpriced and you can do much better for the money
do you want this to sound good, too or just loud? I mean if all you want is loud, we could just install a couple of air hammers in the back of your car..
You can go loud while still maintaining decent SQ. For your budget you can do better than kicker and have money left over to upgrade your alt. In order to run large amps and pull a lot of power you are going to need the electrical to back it up. So going big is a matter on how dedicated you are to your goal and how much you're looking to spend. Fi subs would be a nice alternative choice in subs.
Well I mostly want loud....more of the feel me from four blocks away. I've been told two brands and I know Fi Subs are really nice but also require a huge load of amp power to push them. Anyone have a third suggestion i could also look into?
well here's the thing. If you want an SPL sub (or subs) it's going to need a lot of power. There's n way around that because in reality ALL (magnetic transducer type) speakers are only about 5-15% efficient, meaning for every 100 watts you put into one, you only get about 5-15 watts back as actual sound (scary huh?) and with an SPL sub, you're talking high excursion, and a pretty massive voice coil structure, so you're not going to see an SPL sub in a car with a 92dB sensitivity. You just won't. More like 88-89dB on average.
Here's a thought though. What you can do, is use something like the Fi BTL, or DD, etc.. (an SPL sub) in a high efficiency enclosure. If you want it loud for the sake of being loud, look at building a sixth or eighth order bandpass box. It's big and complex, and not the easiest enclosure to design, but the result is a gain in efficiency of 12 or more decibels. I've seen some gain upward of 30dB.
The result is, with the given amount of power supplied, your box will be tremendously loud, with the ports tuned close to the transfer function of the cabin, which will be around 65Hz.
You want a good SPL brand.. Digital Designs. Done deal. Upgrade your alt, maybe get a second battery, get a nice big amp, build a proper ported enclosure and those will do the job for you. Depending on how much power you're looking to run will determine the model of the subs.
Okay So I ordered a 18inch FI BTL Subwoofer, and looking for instructions on the super complex box...I know I'm gonna need a battery pack with an alternator.
what brand of amp..I was looking at the Audio Que 2200 I think it was maybe and throw in a farad cap or not?
If you're looking to run 2200 rms, I'd recommend upgrading your alt and maybe even getting a battery for the trunk. Depending upon what size alt you currently have stock, and how old it is.
Yeah I was reading that the bandpass enclosure are nice and all but not for like all day drive around bass more for competitions...also are easier to blow the speaker when that way
Will the AudioQue 2200D be enough to push one of those subs? Cause I saw it says 2200wats at 1ohm but since the speaker is 2ohm what does that mean for me?...I guess I'm still a lil new at this.
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Never mind I figured that out, but what about battery and alternator will I need one for a single or even two of these or will it be fine running off the car battery and alternator?
well every1 already gave great advice leading u away from L7s
somehow even though i havent used a btl 18" i suspect it can handle more than a aq2200 since if u read the FI forum u will see ppl using more power like 3000+wrms but depending on ur box design u can get that 2200 to work good for u
u will def need a upgraded alt & replacing ur upfront batt with a good high performance drycell batt - fit the biggest batt with the highest AH rating possible , look at brands like , xs power , kinetik , oddessy even stinger batts ...also do the big 3 wiring upgrade ...
