I'm going to start a new build log for this, the topic of the UPS thread didn't seem fitting.
Wood cut.
Build power in a can- no build is complete without energy drinks imo. Port
Sides and bottom in place
Battery powered circular saw is so awesome for small cuts like this one.
As it stands, it just needs the top layer glued and screwed in place, and the holes cut out. I need to pick up a new router jig. I won't have the copper ready for tomorrow, but I'll have the box in at least.
I think the MSRP on the 1000.1 is over 3k, but they go for a lot less esp used.
Mark- I'm going with 15ft^3 net, tuned to 36hz. The port is 10hx22d, so 220sq inches. I figure once I get another daily box made it'll be really easy to chop this port shorter to do a bit of spl testing.
for that size & such powerful subs i wud use nothing less than 1" , some internal bracing or maybe some threaded rod since i expect high 50s possibly 60 from that set ....
Its fairly cheap to build your own box, as long as you have access to decent tools. It can be pretty easy as long as you understand the principals and aren't working with any crazy shaped boxes.
The best part about building a box is you can decide how much money and time you want to invest in it. If you let lowes cut your wood for you you may spend 15 minutes letting them cut wood, The cost of wood depends on type and amount, but I needed 3 sheets of mdf. Lowes price = 75 bucks.
You need wood glue, screws and screwgun/nails and nailer. A box for a 12 may take 1 sheet of wood, costing like 30 bucks without carpet etc. If you do a large box with fiberglass and tons of bracing with a nice wrapping or paint job it's easy to break $200.
Still, ask any shop for an estimate and see how much you save in labor- and with some practice and skill you'll get a better product than most shops.
Thanks Charles, I try to post lots of pics, but honestly because I let Lowes do a few cuts it didn't turn out as perfect as I would have liked. The damn port's a bit off, first box I've ever had something dumb like that happen. Fk retards that can't cut good with a damn panel saw. Yes there will be vids.
Rovin- I've had serious issues with my sunroof. It's off track and dropped me down 1.5 db or so the moment it popped off. I hate to give goals, but from previous experience I'm going for 155. I may or may not get it with this box- I honestly expect around 153.5ish at 42hz. With the SPL box though I'll be tuned a lot higher. I want to get a jeep or blazer to throw this setup in.
I'm formatting pics in a second- more work done today. It's just short of ready to go.
yah i let home depot do 1 cut before i stoped them they where cutting arches with a panel saw..... so i bought a circual saw lol just made a box for my g/f.
Cutting the sub holes. I love this new Rigid plunge router. I don't have the plunge base on here, but it works so good. It's amazing- It has the same power ratings as the Hitachi and Porter Cable I used before, but cuts sooo much quicker without bogging down. Also the 1/2" Fuego bits from home depot work a lot nicer than the up spiral bits I've been using.
Two quick passes makes a nice ~1/4 inch deep x 1 inch wide recessed area. \
One more time
Painted the port black. Primer + 2 coats of this Rustoleum lacquer stuff. Another coat or 2 should make things very smooth, but damn it's black. I like where this box sits. It's higher than I wanted to make it, but it leaves somewhere around 8-10 inches from the back gate.
Bracing. I figured 3/4" pipe should be better than threaded rod. And much easier to install. I plan on putting some resin or something in it, I can't decide what.
I let one guy do my cuts- I marked where to cut with a square and pen- marked the scrap side so he could cut right next to the pen mark. PERFECT cuts. The dude understood how to cut on a line.
The guy who cut this time didn't even cut on the right fckin side of the line, and didn't understand that a saw blade takes up like 1/8" or something. Asshat really pissed me off.
Flucking nice Troy! I don't know why but somehow I always compare your setups to Jake Papa's. So clean and sweet. And you're right the tools make the difference. As with ANY power tool it is only as good as the weakest link. Freud and Bosch make some of the best router bits IMO. You can spend more on a great bit than you can on a second hand router any day. I know of some 1/2" shank cabinet making router bit sets that are $250+. You don't wanna put those in a $80 router lol.
And X2 on the hired help making cuts. It's a crap shoot.
That's what I'm taking classes for atm. I'm liking anything to do with programing more- even database programming. Unfortunately networking is more in demand in the area.
I figured they cut and thread pipe at the store- why not let them do it, right? I had a group of 4 female employees standing around watching 1 guy cut the pipe.
Now I'm not trying to be sexist, but if the woman isn't strong enough to pick something up, or isn't smart enough to operate hand tools, why not put a male in her place? Anyway- not trying to complain about unqualified employees since they're everywhere.
Troy it's not sexist at all. It's a simple observation. I've noticed it too in some of the jobs I've held.
I hate when a woman claims she can do ANY job a man can. Sorry but if I was suffering from smoke inhalation in a burning building, the last person I want trying to carry my 200+lb frame to safety is a 125lb woman who is also carrying 100lbs of equipment herself. Not gonna happen, not even in Hollywood.
Thanks Paul. I think these bits are about 25 a piece- not too expensive but they cut quicker than the Bosh bits I have experience with. The 1/2 shank is really nice imo- I've had 1/4" bits break before and that's a pain.
lol I like the fireman comparison. It's true, and each gender can do some things others can't. Like men can't have babies and women can't use powertools or drive.
I guess some places have to hire women just to prevent a law suit for discrimination.
same problem with the last box I built for 2 15" HW gp'ers (not mine). I asked for the guy who made the cuts on my HW box (his name was Mark- made it easy to remember) and wouldn't you know, he was off that day.. Well the meathead who said he was " a pro" with the panel saw, was no pro. I stopped him after his third cut. I wanted to punch his mom in the cunttt to keep her from reproducing ever again.. If Mark isn't there the day I need any cuts, well I'll wait till he is there. I tipped him 10 bux and was happy to do so. Every cut was on the money and perfectly square except one(at my request I wanted it a lil over for leway) My B&D tablesaw it not quite big or sturdy enough to be working with full sheets of MDF (needing presice cuts) I would happily trade Troys new setup for one of those Panel saw setups at my house.
how much dust does that router make & which jig are u using ? ...a while ago i bought a craftsman circle jig but i found it to be bulky & poorly made , it had a stupid nail as its point so i sent it back & never even tried it ...i still use the ol jigsaw method
hey im watching the way ur box sits (must be really heavy to lift that all by urself) & im getting a idea : what if u were to cut off in 45 angle about 6" off that box edge above the port so that it may improve the airflow
of course u will lose some cuft & the port length may have to be altered too - what do u think of that idea ...
I used a Hitachi table saw before it was stolen, but with rollers on either end to help hold the MDF. I almost always have someone near by who can help with the big sheets if need be though. I saw a worm drive saw nearby f/s cheap, I was thinking about making my own panel saw once I get my garage addition finished.
I let one guy do a few cuts before and he did a great job, I guess it's hit or miss with the employees.
If I didn't love women I wouldn't have 2 kids ;)
Mark I got the circle jig from Lowes for like 15-20 bucks- it's the only one they stock now. I have 2 of them and I'm pretty happy with how they work. One of them has shown signs of wear- basically since the whole thing is plastic some parts are prone to crack. It's quick to adjust, and cuts up to 40 inch diameter holes. It works good for the price and availability imo.
It snowed here in Myrtle Beach SC, which means I'm not driving to go do work. I left the copper bars and stuff about 1/2 an hour drive away, and people don't know how to drive. Since we're celebrating Valentines day today- I wont be working late. I doubt I'll get anything done today other than some wiring.
I was considering something like that rovin, but the words were taken out of my mouth- I plan on putting pvc on some angles to see how it effects things. I wanted to build a box quick and have it ready to test, so a lot of extras were left to come back to.and see where I gain. Then I'll build another daily box, then a good spl box, then I'll go back to the single sub and see what sort of #s I can get with that. I'm not the sort of person that enjoys testing lots of different equipment. I ran the same subs since '06, and finally decided it was time to change. I plan on keeping these subs for a long time as long as the coil config works out- just building lots of boxes.
This jig also uses a nail to hold a plastic piece in place to center the jig up. It would be much better if they worked on that aspect of it, but overall the jig cuts holes the size I need. I don't think it will do 10" cutouts, but I used it for a 12 and it just fit. I don't think I'll ever do another 10 if I can help it anyway lol.
i share some of ur sentiments too in that i have my 15mt over 3yrs going with the very same box too & may do a change later on this yr ...this is my spl set of course since for daily enjoyment use i dont need more than 1000wrms
both mon & tues in my country are holidays so i got 2 days to build a new box for my 15 & play around with it ...spl comp season here starts back next mth & i odnt want to wait last minute to try anything new ...some how i gotta find me at least 2 more dbs to beat my closest competitor ...
Yes, a big thanks to Vertex Audio for helping this build come together. Great C/S, and very helpful.
Competition here is crazy, if I do no-wall I'm competing against Sundown owner Jake, also I think there's another new build in a van with a 4th order below the window doing 160+.
Mark electrical is supposed to be 4 Iraggi 220s (like 180 at idle) and as many 3100s as I can fit. Also 8 runs of 1/0. 4 batts right now, but in a few months maybe I'll have cash to weld a rack under the car like I want to. That'll give me room for another 4 or 5.
For now It'll be roughtly 720 idling amps/900 peak, and 4 batts.
It was 140 and change with 1 12" type-x and a factory charging system. Nothing great, but out of my wifes trunk with no tuning it was fine.
I got it to bass race 138ish, I'm thinking with a more spl oriented 12 and upgraded electrical 139.9 bass race would have been no problem.
I was taping the final bit of copper today and had another tap break. I had a shop remove the fragment, but god knows when I'll have more time to get them finished
I'll probably put the amp in place and put the subs in tomorrow or weds.
I got the terminal bolts put in today, although I started wiring for 1 ohm and realized I don't have my alternators yet So I'll be rewiring for 4 ohms for now.
I also got the "fuse holder" setup almost done. It's at least enough for me to hook fuses/wiring until I make the top cover. I'll get the amp in tomorrow and maybe the bracing. If all goes well I'll be able to at least listen to it at 4 ohms
The tap that broke off
I made a plexi case to hold the bars and give me a nice way to mount them. I plan on making a cover with some spacer to prevent objects from falling on top of the blocks, but this will get it playing.
The white corners are clear silicone to seal things smooth - it wasn't dry when I took the picture. Goes on white, dries clear.
And mounted in place
Drilled the holes A bit of silicone to seal the washers tight
Are the positive wires(red) going into the same casing? And it looks like one of the negative(black) casing fell off. But yes it looks very good, defffinetly not 12ga.. 10 or bigger.
I'm using tsunami and Q-Power I believe. I've had it around for years and years. It's all translucent and pretty good stuff. I have some RF I might use in some places, but copper wise it's pretty much identical.
Each wire has its own ring terminal, they're just close together. Each wire has its own casing, though some may not be on all the way. The wire size is 8 gauge.
8 gauge seems to fit in everything perfectly. The push terminals on the subs would definitely fit more than 8g, but not 4. The amp terminals fit 8g well too.
Also outside the box from amp to sub looks 'prettier' with the red/black wires than a normal piece of 12g. That's really the only reason. I got it for free for a while there too.
From what I understand there is less resistance, so a few watts may be gained. Honestly from directly replacing the wire there's no audible and hardly any measurable difference between 12 and 8g. I don't know but any build I've done with 2000w or more I use 8g speaker wire.
i would say 8ga wouldnt come into necessity until your pushing 3000 rms @ 1 ohm through it. Thats 55 amps of current. Of course if its only a 2 ft long wire you could probably get by fine with 12.
Im going to be upgrading to 8ga myself once i get my other amp installed. I might just run wires direct off each coil to the outside of the box tho, which will give me more wiring options which in that case i will stick with 12 inside the box and run 8 from the box to the amps and for jumpers between terminals.
That's exactly what I did with my box for the 4 18s- it had 16 bolts. I never had to pull a sub out to rewire things. I spaced the bolts like 2 inches apart of something and made short jumpers.
2 ohms/10,000 watts means 141 volts and 70+ amps going through one set of wires, so I guess there's a benefit to larger wire at that point. I'm running like 1 foot from amp to box so I don't know how much of a problem there would really be.
Small bag trick -no tuning http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h34I9Up4Ln8
Flex http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4UH26GruEoE
While driving so short, but the dash is moving a lot. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gCBEXJH1K5E
No tuning or anything, just hooked the amp up and made sure it was working. It's louder than the 2 18" BTLs on 2 ohms. I'm really happy with the factory alternator keeping things around 13v.
My overall impression of the subs: these things are worth every penny. I listen to a lot of rock/metal and on the way home Devildriver was sounding great. Nice crisp drums without much 'bassy' sound. Not an SQ sub, but I was told "it sounds much better than your last few setups" by more than one.
That's not broken in with like 1/2 hour play time, so there's a lot more tuning and electrical work to go.
Yeah, I probably put $250-300 a month in my truck with no problem. So worth it though. I grew up driving vans and large Cadillacs, smaller cars are great for somethings like gas mileage. But if I can't carry as much as I want to the destination it does me no good anyway.
I have some pics and vids I'm formatting, I'll be done around the time the baby goes to sleep
Anyway, I had a chance to clamp the amp today and see how much power I'm getting. Rovin, you are so right about no where near the potential power here.
I wont go into specifics because the argument comes up that I don't have an O-scope and it might be a clipped signal. My rise went from 2.7ish ohms, to around 12 ohms from 30hz up to 46 hz (I stopped testing at that point).
Output with the signal I'm giving them is testing around 2000 watts very flat, I didn't even do most of the math because they were extremely similar #s (example 14.2 amps vs 14.1 amps). No wonder my voltage isn't dropping too bad lol.
I just can't believe the output with that little power. Pics/vids in a bit.
The seat covers everything fine. Once I get things powered up all the way I'll pull the box out and either re-do it, or just make it look good. Either way I haven't started making things look nice yet, I want it to look clean from the back side too.
They're breaking in, they've loosened up visibly already. Unfortunately they're getting less than rms by quite a bit. I consider this the break in time
Ya but from what i see, before you actually put the juice to them, youll probably need to reinforce your truck because already the flex is insane, im scared to see after break in and running at 1ohm or 2 ohm might actually damage your truck lol
haha i was totally just kidding about the cleanliness. I think it looks great especially for 8 runs of wire and how tight of a spot that is where it all comes together. and like you said with the seat up you cant see anything
only thing i see changing is covering the box but other than that i wouldnt change a thing.
those 4 batts and stock alt seem to hold up pretty well to running 4-5krms. Just a testament to how good the xs d3100 batteries actually are. Wish i could afford them :\ id be interested to see how less of them would hold up with the stock alt tho.
I told him (and many others) about the issues I had with him before. A few months back I noticed he really started picking up in the c/s department. People were leaving nothing but positive feedback, etc etc.
He sent me an email offering to help make things right. Long story short he hooked me up, he's been responding promptly to emails and pms, and the product he sent me this time looks flawless. Only time will tell, I can't wait to test the alts, but I'm 100x happier this time around with the overall experience.
you think you could do me a favor and see how your voltage sits using just 2 of the d3100's before you put the alts in? Im just curious to see how it does
Im looking to run a pair 12" of t2000's I just want to see how many more batteries im gonna need. Im thinking 2 but if i could get by with one more i would be stoked since it will all fit in my spare tire well. I might get one more, see how it does and if i need more then upgrade the battery under the hood and run another run of 1/0. i only have one run for + and - and a piece of 4 for + and grounded to the body so adding another set of runs for +and - might help me out some. If i still need more ill bite the bullet and throw another in the trunk somewhere good thing is it dosnt need to be a spv70 since it wont fit on my buss bars anyways, even tho spv70's are dirt cheap.
Im not going to have money for the t2000's until late this summer so im going to run a 15" btl on 4k for a while.
x2 I feel like I'm cutting it close with 8 total runs, I'd like to have at least 10.
I have an Iraggi quad bracket I just received, but I'm not 100% sure I want to use it. No disrespect to his product, I want to try to make my own. I just want to do it a bit differently than others I've seen, if it works great, if not I have one to fall back on.
Anyone considering making their own bracket that doesn't have a welder or means of cutting 1/2" steel - don't think you're saving money going this way instead of buying one lol.
1/2" wood mockup to have machined. It's pretty obvious how the alts fit. It bolts to the engine block in 4 locations so it should be very solid.
I bought these pulleys some time ago, just factory replacements for my vehicle.
NO ONE had spacers for these pulleys other then the dealership- and at $60 each they weren't worth it. I stopped by a local car crushing place that let me pull them for free. Otherwise having them machined would have been expensive.
Factory spacers with factory pulleys should be solid I figure.
Hopefully I'll get to test this on the truck before long, I want to get this machined out soon. Another benefit to this design is you can run 2, 3, or 4 alts depending on pulley location. Criticism welcome.
quote sean "running that kind of power you will definitely gain by more power and ground runs"
yea i hope so but my alt is only 200 amps (120 idle) so most of the current would be coming from the bank of batts in the back.
I have always wondered if it would be worth it to run another set of + and - considering the one set is more than enough for just 200 amps to charge everything up, might help my hold 14 volts better though.
The only way it would help is if your cable would be limiting the amount of current going to your batteries presently, if they're not than it wont make a difference, current always travels the way which there is less resistance therefore the best thing to do is measure the current coming out of the alternators and see if you really are getting the current you need if so no more cables if not at add what is needed.
It wont "help my hold 14 volts better though" because the voltage fluctuates only if it cannot sustain the 200 amps properly, this is why at idle your current drops to 120 amps so that the voltage will stay at 12 volts, so adding another cable wont help with the voltage. Thats why when lights dim its not a capacitor that will help its the alternator. I use a cap sustain the voltage, lol dont have room for 4 batteries :P
If your confused by my previous statement. The battery is what sustains your voltage, if there is enough current going to your battery than your voltage will stay at 14, if the current drops your voltage will constantly fluctuate.
Grounds help alot because they help "pull" the current from your sources but if your power and ground lines are good for what you need adding wont help.
ken i think you might have current and voltage confused. I agree with you first paragraph but nothing else. Current only drops when there is no current being drawn. If you have a device drawing current it will continue to do so until it is turned off of the electrical system dies or the device fails due to low voltage input. When your voltage drops due to a device that device requires more current (since the voltage is no longer there) to sustain the same level of power output (P=IV) from the device this is why low voltage kills amps, they are drawing more current than they can handle internally and things begin to fry.
i disagree with what you said about the alt dropping to 120 amps at idle due to it trying to maintain 12 volts, because the point of an alternator is to produce higher voltage than the batteries other wise they would never charge. The alternator always attempts to produce the same level of voltage, the voltage drops when the current supplied by the alternator is exceeded then the batteries pick up the slack.
the reason it drops to 120 at idle is because the alternator is not spinning as fast as it needs to in order to maintain 200 amps. there is an upper limit too though, most alts do max power at ~2000 rpms which is a cruising rpm for most cars.
I was saying it would help me hold 14 volts better since i will have less voltage drop over the length of the wire and thus be closer to 14 volts in the back of the car as well as in the front. Under my hood my dmm reads 14.1 but in the trunk it reads 13.9 due to drop across the wires from front to rear which is due to resistance. Adding a second set of +/- will lower the resistance but im not convinced .2 in voltage will really make much of a difference in my install. I might give it a go though if i can find some cheap welding cable and if i can even fit any more wires in my rocker panel.
btw Troy sorry to jack your thread i will make a new one if i have ne more questions.
Not at all, I'm glad you corrected what was said without me having to type that much
Is that a .2 drop with no current draw, or at full tilt mark? I would test full tilt if not because when I had .1-.2v drop from front to back at idle it was substantial when at full volume.
It was supposed to rain today so I didn't test fit the bracket, then it never rained. Hopefully I'll get this tested out before the weekend so I can have it machined quick.
I understand mark the only thing though is that how is what i said
"It wont "help my hold 14 volts better though" because the voltage fluctuates only if it cannot sustain the 200 amps properly"
different from
"The alternator always attempts to produce the same level of voltage, the voltage drops when the current supplied by the alternator is exceeded then the batteries pick up the slack."
because it's almost like were saying the same thing just differently, because i agree with your statements
thats with no draw just due to resistance in the wires. Thats good to know though i might go ahead and add the runs then. I have the wire to go from front to back but i dont think i have enough to double up my big 3.
I drop all the way into the 12's at full tilt while idling, probably like 12.2-12.5 i cant remember off hand though but my spv70's dont let it into the 11's so im fine with that for now, if i were dropping into the 11's i would have bought another battery already. i only have a 200 amp alt (largest one i could afford and has lifetime warranty) and this was when I was running my 3k @ .55 ohm so it was drawing some pretty heavy current definitely more than 200 amps. Never managed to blow the 300 amp fuse i have running to it though....
Im pretty positive im going to need at least (hopefully at most) one more spv 70 once I put the other 3k in i only have 2 right now and a stocker thats pretty much shot up front.
"Is that a .2 drop with no current draw, or at full tilt mark? I would test full tilt if not because when I had .1-.2v drop from front to back at idle it was substantial when at full volume. "
How are you planning on fixing this troy with the 4 alts?
Ken this was a long time ago with 4kw on 1 factory alt, 1 or 2 runs of 1/0 and 2 batteries.
Now it's been the same front/back simultaneously for a while. I'll test it once it's all hooked up though. Ever since I added the D3100s my voltage has been really good overall.
ken i guess by holding 14 volts all i mean is that i will lose less voltage across the runs from front to rear if i add another set. There is always voltage drop across any resistive component even if you have 5 rund of 4/0 there will still be a voltage drop it will just be very small.
it probably dosnt help that my runs from my alt to the back are 20' long either.
but anyways im running all different kinds of wire. I got some mobile spec, elemental designs, knu klmx, and some welding cable.
out of all of it the welding cable is the nicest imo. its the most flexible, pure ofc and it is just plain cheap although i got all the other wire for good prices too. All of the wire is pretty much the same dia.
one of the problems im having for sure is the fact that my one run for (-) is 2 pieces soldered together using an adapter (i did not have a straight run that was long enough at the time)
I know it might not be ideal, and its not very flexible, have you guys ever thought of using high voltage cable, like the ones that are used for airconditioning and heating units?
another option since your adding alts anyways is to maybe install a 16 volt alternator, use a regulator set it to 14.4 and connect everything just off of that, it would be like running a seperate battery and charger from the stock electrical system
I thought about doing a 16v setup, but honestly I don't want to do it. I will leave that option open, but some competitions would put me in classes with some hard core bstards.
The bracket I got from Iraggi was specific for my vehicle, as well as the alts. I don't really want to discuss pricing. He did what he said he would, things showed up in great shape, and his price was more than fair if the product holds up. If you're considering multiple alts and have the same vehicle shoot me an email, it's my username- at - yahoo.com.
I didnt realize that they actually seperate according to voltages, i thought most comps were only amplifier power based, at least if I remember correctly iasca seperates according to power.
"but some competitions would put me in classes with some hard core bstards."
as long as your in a no wall class i think you would be one of the top dogs at least for street beat.
I honestly dont even care about anything other than street beat and bassrace and other music based events, burping is lame and pointless imo. If you cant get loud playing music then fu ck it, granted lots o fthese guys are just picking some gucci songs that play the same note over and over continuously at least its holding up for 30 seconds.
only burps im concerned with are at 35 hz and below. If you can burp 155's at 30 hz that would impress me.
Over-kill on the alts is a nice thing...leaves plenty of room for upgrades in the future.
However Troy your 8 runs of + and - 1/0 is more than plenty...Average run of OFC 18 ft 1/0 can pass 300 amps easily all day long...thus 4 runs would yield 1200 amps perfectly fine. The only reason you really see more runs from the front to back being added in comp vehicles is if they are only allowed to compete with 1 battery located under the hood.
Mark- one of the problems im having for sure is the fact that my one run for (-) is 2 pieces soldered together using an adapter (i did not have a straight run that was long enough at the time.
More than likely this is why you have a .2 voltage drop.
I'm going to upload some progress pics in a little bit, but I installed one alternator for testing.
Non-technical info: looking at my dash voltmeter that is not very reliable I had no voltage drop while driving- while the factory would go down to about 13.5. At idle there was still a volt drop. It was similar to my factory alt, so I don't know what to say there. I need to clamp it to give exact results. Iraggi says around 700 engine rpm the alts should do around 180 at idle so we'll see when I increase my idle speed.
With so much output from the front I just figure the more copper the less resistance, more can't hurt
I didn't notice the first pulley set, what was it like?
Man I know too well about breaking down due to belts It always seems to happen when you're in a hurry or don't want to get dirty. I keep a spare belt and a wrench in the car anymore.
I'd like to see things in action with that bracket of yours.
Bumping this up so it doesn't get buried. I've been working on a build for my cousin - 2 15" IA Leathal Injections in his trunk. Took a few days just to rebuild my 'work shop'. Anyway, it's supposed to be warmer tomorrow so I'll take a final test fitting pic.
I've had to change my design, I realize that the way the aluminum block is designed for the factory alternator mounting the first pulley starts to pull the belt some. I think there would be less twisting or rubbing issues if I make it a bit different, but I'll have to do that tomorrow.
Powermaster voltage control module. It will wire up all the alts, and allows the user to adjust the voltage from their drivers seat, from 10-20 volts. Like a mix between an external regulator, MLA module, and a digital voltmeter. Going to shoot for Monday to drop the bracket off to get machined as long as I get the final bugs worked out.
No I sure don't, but if you email me at my username(tejcurrent) at yahoo.com I respond quickly since it goes to my phone if it doesn't get caught up in bulk.
I've been trying to find a center console that will work, but I cant locally. I'm hoping I can in a junk yard within an hour or so of here since I'm not willing to chop my factory stuff so when I sell I can put things back.
I got tired of the road noise from my front tires and had a spare gallon of Second Skin Spectrum laying around. I removed the front fender well covers and coated them in 4 coats on the inside, 2 on the outside. Then I put 5 coats on the fender itself. I still had enough to put 2 coats on the visible frame going down the side of the vehicle - since I removed my side steps.
Then I realized it looked terrible without the factory covers on my tailgate, so put 2 layers of primer and 2 layers of spectrum on the inside of them. I already have probably a dozen cans of expanding foam in the tailgate so I don't think I can deaden it any more, but at least I shouldn't have any plastic scraping or rattling from those covers.
It rained about an hour later, so I didn't put anything back together- and honestly even with a fan running things didn't dry enough.
It was too crappy to get good pics of everything so I'll upload tomorrow.
Stripping the tire wells down and cleaning everything.
Primed and coated the panels.
Treated the frame
And wiring the subs down from 4 to 1 ohm
I was really worried this would work. The amp is rated 2 ohms, I'm now running .7- or .35 per board. Scares me a bit, but like 15 minutes straight and everything was ice cold. More pics as work is done.
That was actually Austin (not on this forum), I did 1/2-3/4 of the wiring, but he did the crappy parts
It's so nice to have a skinny friend, I'm not fat but after 5-10 minutes of wiring in that port you really feel like it's eating your azz lol.
If anyone was wondering the amp is handling things fine so far, it's at .35ohms per board, but after rise I'm going to guess about 1.5 ohms per board. I just adjusted things to be as loud as they were before, keeping the voltage in the 13+ range
Just realized I didn't specify- I purchased a new center console insert and dash bezel so I can chop, glass, vinyl, paint, and do whatever to them and just trash them if I'm not happy with the results. Took forever to find the dash though (not pictured) so it's not going anywhere but on the car.
Also you'll notice the front bracket is longer on the right than the back, that's so it can be rolled in a 90 for a bit more sturdiness, though I doubt it'll need it. There's one point I'm going to see about welding a small section of steel tubing to inside between the alts to make a very strong bracket.
It'll look much better in steel, anyone with a 5.3 v8 looking for a dual/triple/quad bracket I might be making several of these, and some dual/triple for fun.
I didn't get to try things today- I sanded and stained my kids room, then went shooting. I had a guy pull a gun on me this week, so it seemed to make more sense to work on my aim than my car.
Hopefully do work tomorrow, though I'll probably end up putting the polyurethane on the kids room.
Is that a meter that shows your voltage to you inside your car? My car doesn't have a voltage meter on the dash, I'd like to get one so I can see my voltage without having to look in the trunk or hook up to my battery. Any idea what one of those are called?
Check ebay for voltage meters. What you're talking about is this: http://cgi.ebay.com/Stinger-Digital-BLUE-Voltage-Meter-car-audio-Amplifier_W0QQi temZ260584880254QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item3cac11b87e#ht_161 1wt_1165
That does show the voltage, but it is much more than a voltage meter. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/67679-vcms-ready-to-go/
This Powermaster Voltage Control Module allows you to set your voltage. My truck idles slow, and my idle voltage is 13.8 from the factory. With this module I can increase my voltage whenever I want. Also it will allow me to run multiple alternators without hard wiring harnesses.
Fk retards that can't cut good with a damn panel saw. Yes there will be vids. 
\ 
