Amp help for w7's

 

New member
Username: Newbie111

Post Number: 5
Registered: May-09
Just bought a w7 12 sub and plan on buying another really soon. What amp should I use that will power both subs and my 6x9's and 6x5 component system? Or should I have a seperate amp for the subs and seperate for the mids and highs?
 

Gold Member
Username: Drant19

DUB-C, TX

Post Number: 1721
Registered: Aug-07
2 amps will be the best sollution.. have you done any electrical upgrades to your vehicle (ie. HO alt, batts, big 3). if not then you will need to to run that much power for subs and speakers.

whats your vehicle?
whats your budget?
whats the specs of the box your w7 is currently in?
 

New member
Username: Newbie111

Post Number: 7
Registered: May-09
Abarca, thanks for the response. I have done no electrical upgrades to my car. What do you mean by (ie. HO alt, batts, big 3).
Im a newbie to aftermarket car audio. I have an 86 Cadillac Fleetwood. My budget is flexible, however, I would like to stay in the 500 to 600 range for both. I still have the sub in the manufacturers box from the store. I am piecing this system together piece by piece but the specs for the box according to JL Audio website is:

Nominal Diameter 12in./305mm
Diameter Overall 12.5in./318mm
Diameter Mounting Hole 10.5./267mm
Diameter Bolt Hole Circle 11.27in./286mm
Diameter Magnet 7.5in./191mm
Diameter Mounting Depth 9.5in./241mm

I hope these make sense, as I got them from the website. Again Im very new to this and want to make sure I do things right, for a kick a** system.
 

Silver Member
Username: Poprocks

Post Number: 207
Registered: Mar-09
http://www.bcae1.com/
 

Gold Member
Username: Carguy

Post Number: 6949
Registered: Nov-04
You can't use one amp for powering JL W7 and front/rear speakers. Don't go cheap on the amps either. Since you've made a big investment on the sub, save up and buy a proper amp. Orion/PPI/Xtant/RF/JL all should have enough power for W7. The thing to watch out for is the ohms. W7 is 3ohms @ 750w rms.
If you don't have tools/skills to make a ported box for W7, then look for a shop. They'd be glad to build you one for a reasonable price. Some of them even used to advertise on this site.
Older cars used to have small alternators, so if you love your car, get a HO for it. At the same time, upgrade your stock power wires (Big 3).
These are the steps in order that will make most sense. W7 Box, sub amp & power wiring kit. HO alternator. Amp for font and rear speakers. Upgrade the stock speakers to components.
Of course if you have the cash, you can do all that at once.
 

New member
Username: Newbie111

Post Number: 8
Registered: May-09
Thanks for the help I really appreciate it! I read the website given by tig o bitties and I seem to be more confused about ohms and which amps I should use for the subs then when I first started. Anyway, Im going to do research on the names you mentioned and go from there. Also, I ve been researching component systems and the stock speakers in the front are 4x11 are there any great sounding 4x11's or should I attempt to have 6x5 speakers built into the doors?
 

Gold Member
Username: Carguy

Post Number: 6964
Registered: Nov-04
Discard 4x11 and try 6x5, 5 1/4", or 6.25" components. Much easier to get and will yield better SQ. They will also handle more power.
Treat car audio as a hobby, and spend money according to it. I'm telling you from experience, don't go cheap. Save up and buy one piece at a time. If not, you will sooner or later upgrade (costing more money).
 

New member
Username: Newbie111

Post Number: 9
Registered: May-09
Ok, so in discarding the 4x11's should I try to get the 6x5's mounted in the space previosuly occupied by the 4x11's or should I attempt to have them placed in the doors? Where else could I put them for premium sq?

From my reading of many posts in this forum, this is called the front stage? I hear many guys say that a person shouldnt add 6x9's or something similar to the back window, when adding subs. Do you agree or disagree with this and why?

Also can a 6x5 component system alone give good baalnce to 2-12 w7's? I have heard many systems from novice people who only just want bass to the max, with trunk rattling and distortion and the person on the outside of the vehicle has no idea what song is even playing without sticking thier head in the window. I say this because my goal is to have great balance between the highs, mids and lows. What do you sugesst to help me avoid sounding like some of my friends?
 

Bronze Member
Username: Domenico

Glendale, AZ USA

Post Number: 32
Registered: Apr-09
Sorrrry to jump in mid-post but my input is
Dont go cheap, since you have a nice sub you will want nice componets as well, i say get 2 componet sets so there will be massive bass and gread sq from the componets for the amps, i say go JL audio all they way. i dont use JL myself but companys like jl and alpine will make subs &+ speakers then make amps to match em. if your unsure about what amps to choose with whhat sh!t then you could pull a noob move and call tech support "hahaha" for choosing the right comps, when you go to the JL site read up on there specs and see what series of comps you want. of course there not going to dog on there own product but they should explain the difference in series. so to sum it aallllll up go with all JL Audio http://mobile.jlaudio.com/index.php

Take this for what its worth.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Newbie111

Post Number: 12
Registered: May-09
Thanks for responding any more ideas and input on this?

Ive been doing alot of reading and alot of people say that the 12w7 is very overrated and overpriced and I could find something comparable to the sound for less money. How true is this?

What I had settled on was:

This HU,
http://www.woofersetc.com/p7996/VZ709--Clarion-Single-DIN-InDash-7"-TFTLCD-Touchscreen-Monitor-with-Builtin-Bluetooth-DVD-Media.htm

2- 12w7
Upgrade the batt, HO alt, and the big 3( I finally know what all of those mean!)

To push the subs IA7 Cadence amp( still not very sure on the ohms and watt's concepts but im trying)
http://www.woofersetc.com/p7957/iA7--Cadence-Mono-2000-Watt-Competition-Class-D- Power-Amplifier.htm

Im going to go with Focal component system
http://www.woofersetc.com/p7557/165VR-UV-(Upgraded-Version)--Focal-65"-Polyglass-Component-Speakers.htm

To power my component system I want to stay with cadence.
http://www.woofersetc.com/p6036/FXA2100--Cadence-2-Ch-300-Watt-Amplifier.htm
I will have a custom made box according to JL specs and have everything professionally installed because Ive learned that a great install can make an average system sound great.

I will be putting secondskin on my doors, roof and trunk

Also I have a problem with the component system. These speakers are going into an 86 Fleetwood which has no speakers on the door only the dash and back window. is there a way that I can have the component system installed without cutting into my door panels?

Also, Ive read alot of posts saying no 6x9's because it will overpower the front stage and make the music seem as if its coming from behind me. Could I put 6x9's there and have them connected to the HU or is this a bad idea?

So guys, what do you think so far?
 

Bronze Member
Username: Domenico

Glendale, AZ USA

Post Number: 45
Registered: Apr-09
ohms and wattage is really easy to understand, you just need to be tought. Im gona type this really fast and try to get the concept in your head.
Okay...

Subs can be wired to a certant ohms, people will wire subs down to a lower ohm on a mono channel amp for more power.

If you have two 4ohm dual voice coil subs rated at 500 rms and a amp with specs like 1200 x1ohm 600 x2ohms 400x4ohms. yeah the amp has a choise of 4ohms and would match yr subs but you wouldnt be getting alot of power BUT you could wire your subs to 1ohms and then you'd be getting max power.

(lower the ohms more the power
*pretty much*
higher the ohms less the power)

(think of rms the power of the sub)

a sub can be rated at 1500 watts (peak) but only have 500 rms

about your componet question, yes you can have them instaled without cutting your door pannels. IF i was you, id make a wooden bracket and just cut a hole in your door pannels place the bracket in instal yr speaker buy a aftermarket cover/grill ($10?) and repeat.

Go on craigslist and you can find a installer there that will instal it maybe for decent price ($100)
i wouldnt wanna really take the chance at cutting the holes myself is a was novice to the whole situation.

About the 6x9.. Reading fourms and blogs and doing research on shiiitttt is always good but the best way to find out bro is by just doing it your self. i would get a componet set that had like 6 1/2 and put em in my doors and stay with the stock 6x9s (if u have stock) or say fuccccckkkk em.

i have no comments on your audio equpiment lol

sorry if this seemed confusing and i prolly mispelled alot of words.........typing fast^
 

Bronze Member
Username: Newbie111

Post Number: 13
Registered: May-09
Cool Thanks, Domenico. I appreciate the feedback and also the quick lesson about ohm, watts and rms.

I think youre right. Im going to try a few things and see if they work.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Domenico

Glendale, AZ USA

Post Number: 46
Registered: Apr-09
You should really concider a dynamat kit

i know you prolly dont know what that is

Its a dampeing mat. So your car wont sound like a piece of sh!t with all the rattles.

They have alot of kits for certant things if you dont decide to mat your whole car.

Youre gonna want this too,
Dynamat Xtreme License Plate Kit
http://www.woofersetc.com/p1351/19100--Dynamat-Xtreme-License-Plate-Kit.htm


FOR ALL THE KITS GO TO THIS LINK :-)\
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?currentpage=1&fuseaction=category.display&ca tegory_id=12
Imagine instalation for a house, how it keeps the heat in and the cold out or the cold in and the heat out.

Same concept but for music.

Great investment and you can buy a xtreme kit thatll get your whole car done.

" Kit contains nine 18" x 32" Pieces of Dynamat Xtreme for rear decks, doors, floors and trunk floors. Unlike Dynamat Original, Dynamat Xtreme is also recommended for trunk lids, roofs, quarter panels and under-hood installations
"

http://www.woofersetc.com/p1344/10455--Dynamat-Xtreme-Bulk-Pak-36-Sq-Ft.htm

i recomend you getting the Dynamat Professional Rubber Roller Tool its cheap as f*ck and will instal the mat perfect
 

Bronze Member
Username: Newbie111

Post Number: 14
Registered: May-09
Yea, I had heard of Dynamat, I saw it in Best Buy but the snot nose kid didnt have any idea about it. I have read many posts about the Dynamat and alot of people in this forum recommend second skin. My question is, are the pieces easy to install? I am also going to get a new headliner and eventually have a sunroof installed, should I try to install the dynamat myself before I have all these mods done?
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