Wiring problem?

 

Silver Member
Username: Stamant

LA, FL USA

Post Number: 392
Registered: Sep-04
I'll try to keep this simple. I have two ed nine.1s and one ed nine.2x for amps. I have 0 gauge wire from the front battery running through a 300A fuse under the hood to a 150A breaker in the rear, then to an isolater and on to a yellow top in the trunk. I recently added the second Nine.1 three weeks ago. I went a year and a half before that with no charging problems. One week after the second nine.1 was installed the yellow top went to around seven volts and when isolated completly does not hold any charge. I took the car back to the shop who installed the amp. They told me I just have a bad battery. So I took the battery back to another store where I bought the battery. They put an over night charge on it and said the battery wasx fine and blamed it on faulty wiring. Who is right here. The audio shop is pretty much saying that it is a coincedence that the battery went dead one week after doubling my power. Oh ya I do have a 150A alt under the hood. Sorry if this is confusing. I just want the problem fixed and the idiots around here just blame eachother.
I know wrong section but no action over there.
 

Silver Member
Username: Prozack52

Cincinnati, 2-D615D4 Dia...

Post Number: 245
Registered: Feb-08
all i know is that an isolator adds more resitance to the charging system the guys at ohio generator and the audio shop that i deal with said they are worthless and add resistance and adding another 1200 watts rms amp to that charging system is a huge strain i dont know how you have your system wired but going from a possible 1800 rms to 3000rms might kill that bat that quick quick especially if you had it hooked up already for a year and a half
 

Gold Member
Username: Adddisorder

Palm Beach, Florida

Post Number: 6100
Registered: Jan-06
iv never had a problem with a isolator adding to much resistance.

paul i replied in the other thread.
 

Silver Member
Username: Stamant

LA, FL USA

Post Number: 393
Registered: Sep-04
Guys, I recieved a new yellow top today and installed it. Everything is working fine. Front bat reads 14.2V and rear reads 13.8V with the car running. I am still concerned because everything worked fine the first week after i had the third amp installed.
The day before the battery shut down I ran the audio equipement with the engine not running for about an hour. Could I have drained the battery some much that the alt was not able to recharge it the next day?
 

Gold Member
Username: Nd4spd18

Northwest PA

Post Number: 6903
Registered: Jul-06
Thats what you get for not using an isolator.
 

Silver Member
Username: Stamant

LA, FL USA

Post Number: 394
Registered: Sep-04
M.S., I think you are not understanding. When the isolator was hooked up the rear battery died. I bypassed the isolator just last night.
 

Silver Member
Username: Stamant

LA, FL USA

Post Number: 395
Registered: Sep-04
Can anyone help?
 

Silver Member
Username: Prozack52

Cincinnati, 2-D615D4 Dia...

Post Number: 249
Registered: Feb-08
dude a possible 3000 wrms you need more than one battery or try a
ho alt
 

Gold Member
Username: Nd4spd18

Northwest PA

Post Number: 6907
Registered: Jul-06
Were you actually using an isolator, or a RELAY (not the same thing). My guess is the latter.
 

Gold Member
Username: Andrew571

Stillwater/Edmond, Oklahoma USA

Post Number: 1629
Registered: Oct-05
dont wang on ur system with the car off... simple solution
 

Silver Member
Username: Stamant

LA, FL USA

Post Number: 396
Registered: Sep-04
Zack, I have an upgraded alt, 150A. M.S., yes it was a true isolater. and andrizzle, i wasn't wanging with the system off. I was at a very low volume for about an hour. So am I right by saying that i drained the rear battery so much that the alt was unable to charge it back up? Come on guys, seriously need some help here.
 

Silver Member
Username: Shade

Moxee, Wa U.S.

Post Number: 636
Registered: Nov-06
chances are u did drain it too low, and u could of possible damaged some of ur equipment. if u plan on running ur stereo while the cars off u need to invest in more batteries.
 

Silver Member
Username: Prozack52

Cincinnati, 2-D615D4 Dia...

Post Number: 251
Registered: Feb-08
ok paul my bad like jeremy said more batteries man plain and simple and if you dont think that is the problem throw your old one away and try one new one and see what is does but i feel you need more reserve in batteries 3000wrms is a lot
 

Gold Member
Username: Nd4spd18

Northwest PA

Post Number: 6927
Registered: Jul-06
When the battery got drained was the engine on or off. If it was off the batt should charge again when you start it.


A link to what isolator you have would help
 

Silver Member
Username: Stamant

LA, FL USA

Post Number: 397
Registered: Sep-04
I only ran the stereo with the car off for about an hour at a very low volume. It was not till the next day when the rear battery dropped to low to feed the amps. M.S., this is the isolator I had hooked up when everything went bad. I know have it bypassed and haven't noticed any problems since last Thurs. http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/Shop/Control/Product/fp/vpid/1333954/vpcsid/0 /SFV/30046
 

Silver Member
Username: Stamant

LA, FL USA

Post Number: 398
Registered: Sep-04
Also, running the stereo with the car off is not a huge priority for me.
 

Gold Member
Username: Nd4spd18

Northwest PA

Post Number: 6931
Registered: Jul-06
Stinger SR200 High Current Relay


An isolator huh? Thats what I suspected.......




Now that we know you actually have a relay, the problem has to be that the relay wasn't engaging when it should, and the battery wasn't getting charged. Check for voltage on the trigger wire with the engine on. If there is, then your relay must be bad, if these not, figure out why.


BTW using relay to isolate a battery is not a good idea for a few reasons but you probably don't care.
 

Silver Member
Username: Stamant

LA, FL USA

Post Number: 399
Registered: Sep-04
M.S., I do care. I would not post if I did not care. You can see I have been a member since 2004 and only have 400 posts so when I ask a question I'm not just asking it for no reason I want to learn. So please just give me advice and educate me. Obviously I did not know it was a relay nor do I know the difference between an isolator relay and a true isolator.
 

Gold Member
Username: Nd4spd18

Northwest PA

Post Number: 6939
Registered: Jul-06
I didn't mean to insult you, I guess I could have worded that better. What I meant was if your relay was working fine for your setup you wouldn't want to change it.



The problem with using a relay is this. Assuming you had just been playing your system with the engine off: If you connect the trigger wire to your ignition wire, both batteries could be drained if you turn the ignition to on with out starting it. That could be avoided by putting the trigger wire on switch, but then you would always have to remember to turn the switch on and off.


A real isolator is installed after the alternator, and has connections both batteries, and alternator. Current can flow from alt to batt 1, and alt to batt 2, but never between the two batteries. And everything is automatic.




As for the problem you are currently having you should be able to figure out the problem in a matter of minutes with a DMM. Feel free to ask if you don't know what to do.
 

Silver Member
Username: Stamant

LA, FL USA

Post Number: 400
Registered: Sep-04
Thanks M.S., its all good, its just frustrating not knowing what is possibly going wrong with my system. At this time I just bypassed that relay and haven't seen any problems at all.......yet. My lights do not even dim at night, i guess thats a good sign.
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