HUGE voltage drops in system.. new bat or alternator?

 

Bronze Member
Username: Baalpeteor

Post Number: 68
Registered: Oct-07
I have a yellow top under the hood, and running a 1100 watt Rd 100.1D amp on a rd audio 12", and I just added a little old alpine mrv-f300s 4 channel amp. It supposedly puts out 80 watts bridged ( i have 2 6x9's on it 4 ohm... 1 on channel 1/2 and the other 3/4, so that's 160 watts there give or take). The lights blink like hell even with the new amp. Here's the setup to look at it easy:

1000 watt amp on 12" sub
160 watt 6x9 amp
eclipse cd3100 HU (i usually put the bass +6 which is highest, and i can't even put the non-fader up to +6 which would boost the sub but not to clipping or it will def blink like hell).

Wiring:
0 gauge on a stinger digital bat terminal from yellow top to power dist. block that turns into 4 gauge, and 4 gauge goes straight to cap which goes to the 1100 watt amp. the alpine amp isn't ocnnected to cap, but has a 4 gauge wire off the power block to the trunk (the 1100 watt amp is inside the car.

car: 94 pontiac sunbird


problems:
HEAVY dimming. a good song the voltage as seen on the cap can drop to 11 volts, and if on the HU the nonfader is up to +3 and bass +6, or vice versa, it can drop to even 10 volts or so. it used to turn on my antilock brake light but I changed the alternator to an ac delco or whatnot "rebuilt" high performance (just 105 or so amps, but prob 80 idle) from autozone. Also, the last day I had it up the actual needle for my mph would jump up about 5 or 10 mph when the note hit :-S

I was wondering what would be the best second battery to run in the trunk.. and if I do would that keep the voltage at 14 volts? I hear you saying a kinetic battery in the trunk... and I don't do any showcasing with the car, so i wouldn't need a isolator because when the car is off I don't listen to the system.. or is it still good to get one?

as for alternator upgrade.. it has this small 10 or 12 gauge wire.. the stock one.. which came off the starter due to erosion before and the old alt died.. and with the new alt the wire broke in 2 parts (too much power for it?) and I had it put together with wire nut. The reason for not putting 4 gauge wiring on the alt to starter is it was it was impossible... i might take pics and upload later. The bracket that holds the alt that the big power wire from alt goes through is only big enough for the next gauge to fit, but nothing bigger . And as for on the starter it would prob be hell to put a 4 gauge terminal on there.. as of now there is no terminal on the stock wire its just under the screw.


so what do you guys suggest to get rid of these ridiculous electrical drops?

my budget is basically around 200-300. If its a good alt that's like 400 or so I can save up and just wait but as far as batteries go I could get that now.

and on a site note... they told me the power wire HAS to goto the starter... if I keep the one on the starter, could I also run one to the battery straight from the alt.. and would that help get more power from the alt? im sure the wire is hindering what the alt can put out altho the alt cant do that much
 

Gold Member
Username: Nd4spd18

Northwest PA

Post Number: 6259
Registered: Jul-06
Second battery is NOT going to solve your problem.


You need an HO alternator and of coruse do the big 3 wiring with it. This has nothing to do with the srarter don't listen to anyone telling you it does.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Baalpeteor

Post Number: 69
Registered: Oct-07
thanks. when you say HO alternator you mean an alternator FROM the company HO alts or just any HO alt? and if u mean any, who has good alts with high amps for cheap? the co HO was talking 499 :-S

btw.. if I do upgrade the system it would only be for another 1100 watts.. put 2200 watts on that sub and still the 160 watts on the 6x9's. thats about all i'd upgrade this car.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Baalpeteor

Post Number: 70
Registered: Oct-07
oh and I forgot.. by starter they said (my mechanic) "ya the big wire off your alt HAS to goto the starter or the car wont work/start. "

as I said its one wire from alt that goes UNDER the car and the wires are under this bolt for the starter... so your trying to say i could just ru the alt STRAIGHT to my yellow top, without any performance decreases and the car will work still? or should I just run a cable FROM the alt to the batt, and keep the one to the starter there?
 

Gold Member
Username: Nd4spd18

Northwest PA

Post Number: 6265
Registered: Jul-06
You leave the wire that is there how it is, and run the new cable from alt to battery.


DB Electrical and Motor City Reman make good HO alternators at good prices. An HO alternator should be 200+ amp, more is better.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Baalpeteor

Post Number: 71
Registered: Oct-07
great thx so much. so 200 amp idle is enough for lets say 2380 watts max power with no blinking and dimming and should stay at like.. 14 volts while running hard?

i want to do this right the first time.. one alternator.. one battery.. spend money once ;-)
 

Gold Member
Username: Nd4spd18

Northwest PA

Post Number: 6273
Registered: Jul-06
You're not going to find an alt that does that much at idle. At idle, you may not able to play at full volume theres not much can be done about that.




" i want to do this right the first time.. one alternator.. one battery.. spend money once ;-) "

Thats the way to do it
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