1.) I just put a cap on (pyramid) my system. the ground wire is grounded on top of the ring terminal to my screw holding down my bucket seat (one on top of another), and the power wire (0 gauge) goes to the cap (200 amp fuse) from battery straight to (cut some 0 gauge off to fit b/c i have no ring terminal to fit it right now), and another piece of 0 gauge is wrappedo n that with black tape around it (i know shitty right now til I get connectors and new cables but anyway) to the amp. Now the problem is... sincei put it it seems the abs light stays on. Is it b/c the bass is hitting so hard its vibrating something to make it do that? Or b/c i put the cap on is it something wrong with power?
Speaker specs: rd audio alpha v1 running on rd class d 1100 watt amp (gain to max) with eclipse head unit (non-fader max, bass max.. hell everything max for non fader)
2.) how can I even turn the cap off? i thought it'd go off itself.. but does the display stay on 24/7? like it says 12.something volts on it even after car being off for over 30 mins... so is this normal?
well it didn't turn on this time i rode around with the gain on the amp to the max, non-fader to +6, remote bass (of amp) max, and max of +6 db to bass this time. But i still have the question about the cap...
well I guess u can disregard this completely b/c my bat still alive seems the next morning. I was basically wondering I guess if cheap caps could break like that b/c it was a pyramid afterall ;-p someone can delete this whole thing
1) all caps are worthless so you don't need one, sounds like you need a HO alternator and a new battery like kinetik, odyessy, optima etc 2) set your gains with a DMM, by having your gain set to max, along with everything else, you are most likely sending a clipped signal to your sub which will blow it over time
1.) you should know caps aren't useless =). I got it to smooth out my voltage spikes, and it has helped if I kept the gain halfway down when my lights were dimming before the cap, it wouldn't dim at all but i have the gain to max so it dims a bit but not as heavy as before. Im running 0 gauge from my battery and from cap to amp also (easier for power to get to and from?)
2.) a clipped signal can blow it? Does the fact that its a 1100 watt amp going into a 2000 rms sub matter? So it will never see peak the sub can take.. or is the clip just more like a sound distortion caused by the amp your talking about, not really clipping the sub tho?
im still going to look into an alt but that's last.. im going b uy a yellow top first
Youve done so much sh!t wrong it ain't even funny........... at the very least, FIX your gain and bass controls before you blow the sub! Set gain correctly with a DMM, and no bass boost.
I lost mine some time back but i will once i get my hands on another.
oh and also the reason im doing everything else first (cap, big 3, yellow top) is because its a POS car... cost me 500 and getting a 500 dollar alternator is ridiculous. Maybe when I get another automobile. but the one i drive now purpose was to and from college
the gains and bass boost is correct i called rd audio themself the other day ;-O
I just didn't know when i first installed because i never heard distortion which is the sign of it being too high (when the waves becomes squares), but I could put it high because i didn't have it wired for exactly 1100 watts (the max) so being less it was ok for the gain to be on max seems... but after rewiring it to bridge ya its set right everything is set right no worries.