TWiZTiD + whoever cares...... alt & big 3 **PICS**

 

Gold Member
Username: Snarl2004

Audioque 12 SD2.5s, Earthquake P...

Post Number: 1539
Registered: Dec-06
TWiZTiD i no u wanted to see it so here it is...

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pretty self explanitory i think.
 

Gold Member
Username: Joebruce

15 AQ HD3

Post Number: 1211
Registered: May-04
cool thanks man. how hard was it?
 

Gold Member
Username: Snarl2004

Audioque 12 SD2.5s, Earthquake P...

Post Number: 1540
Registered: Dec-06
the most time consuming part of the big 3 was cutting all the 0/1 gauge to length and crimping wire terminals to the ends...and finding a spot to ground it

pretty ez overall
 

Gold Member
Username: Joebruce

15 AQ HD3

Post Number: 1214
Registered: May-04
wut size alt is that and whered u get it and how much?
 

Gold Member
Username: Tremor1127

Team Fi Car Audio [:-]

Post Number: 2049
Registered: Aug-06
snarl, its 1/0, not 0/1.

whatever though... :-)
 

Gold Member
Username: Joebruce

15 AQ HD3

Post Number: 1220
Registered: May-04
damn tremor that was cold its an honost mistake dude. i didnt even notice it til u pointed it out.
 

New member
Username: Jayem

Post Number: 10
Registered: Apr-07
For the engine ground, is it better go engine block -> battery or engine block -> chassis?
 

Gold Member
Username: Safe_cracker

Chicago, IL US

Post Number: 3179
Registered: Jan-06
Hmmmm, those look like closed-end braze terminals, which means they should have been soldered on instead of crimped. Polo..
 

Gold Member
Username: Jkidder

Spring hill, Florida Usa

Post Number: 1270
Registered: Nov-05
not everyone can be as rich as u polo....
 

Gold Member
Username: Safe_cracker

Chicago, IL US

Post Number: 3191
Registered: Jan-06
"not everyone can be as rich as u polo"

Far from being rich and has nothing to do with using the wrong connectors for a particular job. I merely stated that you should have soldered them on which you could still do by heating with a propane torch while wicking in rosin core solder until it drips out of the eye loop. I didn't mean to be a critic just want to help prevent future problems that could arrise from such a decision, sorry... Polo.. :-)
 

Gold Member
Username: Tremor1127

Team Fi Car Audio [:-]

Post Number: 2053
Registered: Aug-06
and thats the same exact wire im running in my current vehicle.

i cant afford kicker and rockford flex anymore. :-(
 

Gold Member
Username: Tremor1127

Team Fi Car Audio [:-]

Post Number: 2054
Registered: Aug-06
and all of mine is soldered like a betch... :-)
 

Gold Member
Username: Joebruce

15 AQ HD3

Post Number: 1230
Registered: May-04
oh yea snarl wuts a safe amount of wire to buy?
 

Gold Member
Username: Snarl2004

Audioque 12 SD2.5s, Earthquake P...

Post Number: 1541
Registered: Dec-06
twiztid i bought 10 ft of wire. I had enough for all the big 3 and the ground on my amp. Im getting 15-20 more ft for the power wire for my amp and to wire up my second batt when i get it.

polo wut do u mean they are closed end?

jayem it doesnt matter cuz i grounded that battery to the frame so it would be a waste of wire if i grounded it also to the frame. If the batt is groiunded to the frame and the alt is grounded to the batt then by elimination its alt to frame sorta...u get the point

BTW it is a Iraggi Amputator series 220/175 idle


twiztid heres a link to chevy alts:
http://search.stores.ebay.com/iraggi_Parts-Accessories_W0QQ_trksidZm37QQcatrefZC 6QQfmmkZchevyQQfobfmtZ1QQfromZR10QQfsooZ2QQfsopZ3QQftrtZ1QQftrvZ1QQsabfmtsZ2QQsa catZ6028QQsaobfmtsZsifonlyQQsbrsrtZdQQsofpZ4

just look though them and get the one that says they are for s series trucks. also when u order jsut give them the year make model engine size of or truck so they can make it right. Also get amputator series. they are more expensive but better quality and higher idle output. thats y i got the 220/175 cuz if i moved higher like 240 the idle amps go lower and alotta times im listening at stop signs etc...

mine was like 360 shipped
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