I have never owned a sound system of my own and me parents just bought me a Lanvar Vibe286 2 Channel 4000 Watt High Power MOSFET Amplifier and 2 Lanzar MAXP154D 15'' 2000 Watt Dual Voice Coil Subwoofer. does any one know a good set up for this combo. And maybe good advice for a good cd player for less then $200. thanks
you can get a real nice cd player for ~$200. Check out onlinecarstereo.com and sonicelectronix.com for good prices.<br> <br> That amp should do a good job on those subs. BTW - it's a 900w amp (rms). 4000 is a max power rating which only means something if you're a member of Lanzar's marketing team.
Bridge the amp (read the manual), wire the subs like this and you should be set.
Find a decent 4 ga amp kit and you need to come up with a quality enclosure as well.
I have had this amp for about a year now. You really need to pair up amps and speakers properly to get the most bang for your buck. That amp will do (so it says) rms 1000x2 2-ohm stereo. It wil 4000max x 1 @4ohm I called them and ask what I'd really be getting and depending on your battery 12v-14v you will get between 1500 and 1800watts RMS. When I had my 4 SVC 12s on there the amp hit harder than 2 SVC at 2ohm stereo. So if you have 2 DVCs and you run it at 4ohms you should slam. You should sound like 4 12s. Now the trick is and I am also dealing with this issue are the correct subs to put in. My subs Phoenix Gold xmax 12s are power hungry You need at least 500 watts to make them move a little bit. Get a sub with a high sensitivity and not so power hungry. That is my next experiment. I am not quite sure what the issue is. I am getting a bottoming out sound and possible some distirtion at high levels. WHen I turn the gains up it definately kicks out more power. My mids and highs are factory maybe thats some of the problem. Or maybe I need a ported box. I am not sure there so many factors. Any advice. I am going to get these cadence wild beast 12s (they are power hungry too 700wrms)in replacement of of pggold xmax. I have had them for like 7 years maybe (thats how good trhey are) I wonder if putting the cadence SVC in a ported box would still give me some SQ on this amp. Sorry for rambling. Any suggestions http://www.noahswebsites.com
yeah your probably right, but you cant beat the price. beats a $1 a watt like back in the day. I went for the biggest cheapest amp with a name you can trust and got this. I cant complain. You basin harder than the average basser. I am going to put it on 2 12s cadence wild beast in a ProBox If I pull 700 x 2 rms (clean) I should be deaf. And after that I think I have reached my bass limit. You could compete in 2 woofer local comps and win. I know this is true because I have seen trophies from people with cadence and they had less power. The lanzaar amp at 137 bucks is the best bank for the buck. I curious about the power Akcustic 3000d That should be about the same but cleaner. Its runs around 200 bucks
"I called them and ask what I'd really be getting and depending on your battery 12v-14v you will get between 1500 and 1800watts RMS."
If that's what you were told, you were lied to. It's rated for 450x2 at 2 ohms stereo - the same as 900x1 at 4 ohms bridged. 1500+ is NOT happening.
Mendon - some of the ratings on the cheap stuff are pretty pathetic, but as Jamal said - you still get good power for the cost. All the non-Opti Lanzar's are typical entry level amps, nothing more. I think "trash" is pretty harsh.
If they're trash so is everything else below Hifonics.
Yes it is true my system is very loud. It seem slike it would be illegal to lie about the RMS. Anyway I maybe making another huge mistake but I have my eye on the Vibe 1800d lol. I think I may really need this amp to power my (4) phoenix gold xmax 12s SVCs This puppy says 1 ohm stable actually it says 1.3ohm stable hopefuly that will be stable enough. The amp is only like 175. I have read a few reviews where people breakdown opti, vibe, and vibrant. They say opti is great and the vibe is accurately rated They say vibrant is trash and overated which I have and yes it is a little muddy at high volumes i think it is due to lack of power. So indeed they lied. it pushed the 4 12s and it was very fully bodied but lacked what 4 12s can really do. So I am going to try it the 1800d. Oh btw I also had a Bass Overdrive line driver (I never saw any voltage lights)(and it was on an alpine) from Audio Control on my other install. This install which is causing the distortion is off a factory deck with no Overdrive. If the 1800d plays without clipping and can move my speaker cones enough i will be happy. I will be running some Diamond audio hex in the front and some infinity kappas 4' in the rear. Those 4s are really all you need loud and clear wont blow. BTW FOCAL speakers Suck! No balls blow easily(soud descent) I have the access components. I am cheap. except for the DAs
Ok here is the lie Here are one set of specs(the ones I went on a year ago) 1 x 4000W MAX at 4 OHMS Bridged
2 x 2000W MAX at 4 OHMS
2 x 1000W RMS at 4 OHMS
2 x 1650W at 2 OHMS RMS
And her are the specs today
Brand New Lanzar VIBE-286 2 Channel Amplifier 2x 300W RMS at 4 Ohms 2x 2000W MAX at 4 Ohms 1x 4000W MAX at 4 Ohms Bridged 2x 450W RMS at 2 Ohms
hmmmm THE MANUAL MATCHES THE LADDER
Its a real cheesy 450x2 If you get a better amp it would sound much clearer
When you mix good mids and highs it makes your subs sound better than they are. Funny Optidrives were mediocre back in the day compare to to Soundstream ref and zeropoint Phoenix Gold. Meaning that amps where better back in the day. A damn car aduio dealer stole my zeropoint 3 I paid 1000 bucks for that amp
i bought a lanzar vibe286 a while back and there is no way it will put out over 1000 wrms. First of all open it up. it has less circuitry then my 400wrms Ma Audio amp. and weights about 10 pounds. It is heavily over rated.
Everybody is right so many little factors which make a whole. I was really testing it out in my VW jetta 2007 and the PG xmax 12s looked like they needed a break. 1st factor the box I have them in a shared air space it looked like one sub was hitting hardr than the other. To our ears problem means distortion.(who knows) I just know I want seprately chambered I dont care what any installers says. 2nd factor DYNAMAT. 3rd factor power supply alternator is 140 amp BUT I have a batcap300 on it I think that is why my sytem is forgiving Class A amps like this one will fizzle bass out if it is not getting the right current. I am getting straight AC no lights dimming. I am playing deep south bass and it is smashing those 2 12s Id say it has to be doing 450x2 4th factor line driving and signal processing I am currently not using any but when I switch out my factory deck I am sure taht will make a difference. 5th factor SVC vs DVC. 6th factor the sub; any high end sub will be more forgiving on crap power. i have changed my mind on the vibe 1800d I think I am going with 2 cadence comp amps then eventually move over to there wild beast line. And a boat load of dynamat. Not to change the subject but is there any reasonable price mids and highs (more highs) that can eat thrrough bass. Components dont do the trick for me they blow. The loudest I have heard but still cant eat through the bass are my 4inch infity kappas. I dont want ear popping horns. I would like a badddest tianium
jamal, that amp does not put out more than 1K tops regardless of what the manufacturer says, look at the fuse ratings for god sake. Not trying to be harsh here, but when you buy a junk brand (lanzar, pyle, pyramid, boss) your gonna get false ratings and amps puttogether as cheaply as possible.