I've heard the Kappa 60.5 CS component set. I'm not looking for so much of a recommendation as I am for someone to explain how differently the Kappa 60.5 and the Kappa Perfect 6.1 sound in comparison. You know, attributes to expect from the system, and their pros and cons. Also, I was wondering if the accuracy and clarity of Kappa Perfects compared to the more expensive sets (JL Audio XR series, Diamond HEX, Dynaudio 360) I'm thinking the Perfects are speakers more in line with accuracy and pronounced sound than, say, the softness of silk tweeters, but I could be wrong.
the perfects are a nicer set, but it's one of those things where you'd be best off hearing them to compare for yourself.. I know people who don't like Infinity at all, and some who love them. it's very subjective
Anonymous
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Well, I've had Infinity, and I'm definately a testament to liking the accuracy of their products, just haven't heard the Perfects yet. I found a dealer in Atlanta who carries them, so I'll check them out tomorrow. Thanks for the help
Heard them today, they are awesome. You can really tell the difference between the Kappas and the Kappa Perfects. I bought the set today and installed them in the custom kick panels I made a year ago. The midbass isn't as bad as everyone says, and I know it'll get better once they break in, just like my Kappas did. I think they're just sensitive to the enclosure they're in, which I made the kick panels to vent into the carpet for that, anyway. I always crossover a component speaker at 100hz anyway, so they're up my alley. . They sound soooo much better than the kappas, You can tell the integrity of the crossover and components. They're way better, and I can't wait to see how they sound in a couple weeks, once everything loosens up. I'm gonna let them break in before I truly try them out, but right now they sound really good off my amp (Hifonics Zeus ZX-4000). Are they one of your favorites, Glass? I saw you running them in your jeep, and also saw your plans for the Tiburon.
you wrote: ...."The midbass isn't as bad as everyone says, and I know it'll get better once they break in, just like my Kappas did. I think they're just sensitive to the enclosure they're in, which I made the kick panels to vent into the carpet for that, anyway. I always crossover a component speaker at 100hz anyway, so they're up my alley."
I am interested in your kick design. I also have decided that the kick is the better place for a component set and would like to design a kick that works properly. I have a cherokee and the kicks are fairly bulky to begin with so I have a good starting point. Any info about kick panel design that you could share?
those drivers are designed for use in an infinite baffle setup so you're better off with sealed pods for the nidrange.
glad ya like the Perfects, yeah I do enjoy them. I have ones I like better, but they aren't cheap.
as for an amplifier, a Kicker KX800.4 would be a good amp.. so would a JL 300/4
Anonymous
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I'm happy with my Hifonics amp. Does me well, anyway. Not top of the line, but I'm kinda on a tight budget. Zapco would be my amp of choice, but outta my range. I'll try sealing up the hole in the kick and see if it helps (all i did was cut a 2 1/2" hole in the bottom and tightly sealed it to the carpet, so it's easy to cover up w/ some leftover dynamat. My kick enclosure has a pretty high volume, probably close to 1 cu. ft., as the metal panel behind it has holes in it and runs to the fender of the car.
As far as your question, Jim, stick with me, this is kind of lengthy. I followed the fiberglassing instructions on the JL Audio tutorials page, the file is titled "MERA 2002" "Bedtime for Bondo" and gives a list of all the materials needed.(long list, too much for me to post) I followed all of these steps, except for the actual shape of the kick panel. The resin will not permanently stick to duct tape, so I made a small speaker box and got a friend to keep angling the box until the image was right where I wanted it. I made a flexible L bracket to hold the tweeter and rotate it around for the best possible place, then screwed the bracket into the speaker box. Then, I screwed the box to the factory kick panel, took the kick panel out of the car and layered duct tape on top, stopping at the OUTSIDE diameter of the woofer, and for the tweeter, put the flush mount cup on top of the tweeter, marked where it would be, and cut out a little less than the OD of the cup, I then cut that precisely with a utility knife. I then layered duct tape on top of that so it didn't just look like a fiberglass speaker box. Brush the resin on top of the duct tape, then let it dry. Make an MDF mounting ring to hold the woofer, I made mine just deep enough so the speaker grill would be perfectly flush with the rest of the kick panel. from the back, cut a hole the size of the enclosure you just made, and putty in the MDF ring. Should fit nicely if your resin was pretty close to what you cut. Apply resin to the top of the putty to securely mount the MDF ring. Also, go ahead and stick the tweeter flush mounting cup in to make sure it fits, and if there is any gap and isn't perfectly level all around, fill it with putty. Then, follow JL's instructions about primer, plaster, and final fiberglassing to complete your panel. Paint it after this to match and it works great. It is very labor intensive, especially your first time doing it, but if you want the satisfaction of saying you did it yourself, it is a great project to spend your free time on. If this is too much work for you, the Q-Logic kick panels work great if you sound deaden the inside of them, but they only fit a 5.25" component system. Hope this helps, good luck if you try it.
Anonymous
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Glasswolf, I have broken them in and here is the final evaluation. I plugged the hole I had in the panel and the sound is a lot better, thanks for the recommendation. They've gotten much more solid on midbass since everything has loosened up. I think the reason that most people say they have no bass is because they give them no chance to break in before taking them back. I am amazed at how clear these things are at high volume, your ears will bleed before they distort, and they are LOUD. Blend in well with good subs.