JL W6v2 box tuning

 

Bronze Member
Username: Pjcom

Brentwood, TN USA

Post Number: 29
Registered: Jun-05
I know I have asked this before, (I just spent at least an hour trying to find my last post and the replys...I think it is on the Dec. 29th archive but for some reason it wont come up) but what should my 10w6v2 box be like? I'm going for SQ and I believe ported is the way to go. What should the box be tuned at and could somebody point me in the right direction to obtain this box? I am not so experienced at building enclosures, but I guess some decent schematics would work too. (btw...its being powered by a 600.1 kicker class d amp) Thanks again!
 

Platinum Member
Username: Chaunb3400

Huntsville, Alabama U.S.

Post Number: 11091
Registered: Jul-05
if u want the easiest way for best sq...go sealed
 

Bronze Member
Username: Pjcom

Brentwood, TN USA

Post Number: 32
Registered: Jun-05
What makes sealed easier than ported? I also stumbled upon this : http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_enclosures_pages.php?menu=2&page_id=19
Looks interesting and expensive.
 

Gold Member
Username: Redliner

Wilmington, Ma

Post Number: 3587
Registered: Jun-05
thats jl's ho box not a sealed box a sealed box is just that a sealed box lol just a box with a sub in it basically nothing special about it, all that matters is just the size of the box and the build quality thats all lol
 

Bronze Member
Username: Nickb4247

Post Number: 16
Registered: Dec-06
Its def. easier to make a sealed box with a flat response that a ported/vented enclosure with a flat response. But, a well designed ported enclosure can sound just as good as a sealed enclosure. Just about every selfpowered hometheatre sub is in a ported enclosure.(even very high end brands like martin logan, svs, ect.) Its just very hard to make a generic ported enclosure that will sound good in all vehicles like you can with sealed enclosure. Its easier in a house do to the difference in airspace that is being pressurized. Cars are a bad enviroment for flat bass response. I would try tuning somewhere between 27 and 31 hertz. A low tune like 26-27 will give a flater response at the exspense of SPL, but it will also allow the sub to play lower.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Pjcom

Brentwood, TN USA

Post Number: 33
Registered: Jun-05
Well I am not really worried about the SPL. Like I said SQ above all. I have a '02 Nissian Pathfinder so I get the benefit of not having the sub in a sealed trunk (10 points to me for better sound :-) ). How big should I look into making the box? The bigger the box, the more air that is getting displaced...right?...or am I completely off on this one? Not that I am modeling this box to be a scale modle of Moby Dick or anything... :-)
 

Gold Member
Username: Suleman36

Post Number: 4174
Registered: Feb-05
Go sealed at 1.25 cuft net with 1 pound of poly fill and enjoy SQ.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Pjcom

Brentwood, TN USA

Post Number: 35
Registered: Jun-05
Thanks for all the help everyone!
 

Bronze Member
Username: Nickb4247

Post Number: 41
Registered: Dec-06
A smaller sealed box will give the sub more power handling, but it will sound "punchier", this box excentuates the midbass reqion. A moderately sized box(like the one recommended by MO is prob perfect for you) will give a relatively flat response, the resonse of the sub will start rolling off around 30 hertz, but a car is easier to compress below 30hertz. A larger box will delay this roll off at the exspense of power handling. You might get a clean response down to 22 hertz but your sub will not handle the power it used to be able to. ex. A hatch back might sound good with a smaller sealed box(1.15-1.2 cuft), but it might sound a little punchy in a large suv, in which case you might try a 1.25-1.4 cuft box. U can also "fine tune the box with polyfil, like MO said. If you want a sound that "kicks" a little more(not louder), take out some Poly, if you are missin some of the lows, add some, and see what happens. good luck.
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