Hello everyone, Have the HT-800D alarm bought from eBay and installed in my car. works ok except that when I try to remote start it from the remote, the engine runs for aprox. 2 sec and shuts down. Any help will be highly appreciated . Thanks
I've bought the HT-800D+ also and am having the same problem. It starts and runs for 1.5 seconds each time(3 times) and shuts off immediately. I thought it was becuase I'm installing it on a diesel, which doesn't have spark plugs, distributor, etc..., until I saw you a similar post of this problem on this web site. Has anyone found solutions, much appreciated--
I figured out that the diesel engine on my 84 mercedes 300D shuts down by a fuel cut-off solenoid that is entirely mechanical and connected directly to the ignition switch. If one was so inclined to do so, he can connect the two vacum hoses that RUN DIRECTLY TO THIS SOLENOID(YES TO THE IGNITION SWITCH)to each other. Now having these connected together with a small rubber hose, he can simply pinch the hose that is connecting these two and shut off vacum air going through them. Try the remote start while holding this hose tight. It will finally start! Let go of the hose to shut the engine off. Having done this leads me to connect a timer relay up to an electric vacum on/off. The HT-800D+ is looking for an electrical cut off, however there isn't one. So one has to be made. I bought a timer relay off ebay for 16.00 and had an electric vacum on/off. The plan is to get the relay to trigger from a negative (-) so when the alarm computer shuts the car off, the relay will pick up the (-) and switch the solenoid open for 3 seconds or so, cutting off the engine. So now the engine cut off is "electronic", which is the language of the alarm.
Relay: VIPER CLIFFORD CAR ALARM DEI PULSE TIMER RELAY 528T
12V Electronic vacum on/off: MAC MODEL 35A-AAA-DDBA-1BA VOLTS 12 WATTS 5.4 UP TO 120 PSI
I am getting ready to install my HT-800D and am curious about 2 things on the install diagram. What do I connect to this engine pic and what is the brown wires for? Double pulse/single pulse lock/unlock?
Emmet: ***Engine means that you cut the starter wire and one connect the two thick wires of the relay on to the starter wire part that heading to plug, and the other the second part of starter wire which exactly heading to starter engine. *** Brown wires are for turn signals so when you arm/disarm the alarm they would be flashing. *** The single pulse/double pulse wire if cut opens only driver door, if connected all you can open only driver door with one press on button or all doors with double press.
I am not sure which is what? I thought that the one that says microwave sensor (on left) was the communication module. Is it really the shock sensor? Thought that because it says adjust sensitivity on the orange dial. Is the one on the right the communication module then?
The metal thing (that Emmet posted a picture of above)is a door open/closed sensor. You put it in the door jam so that it can sense when the door is open and closed. When the door is open it sends a ground(-) trigger to the alarm. I hooked mine up and when the door is open it flashes the damn parking lights continuously until I close the door. But I think I read that to program the alarm, in either remote start timming mode or turbo timming mode, the door has to be closed. Not exactly sure.
Don't know why the lights flash continuously, kind of annoying.
It is not mentioned in the wiring diagram. So i won't use it if you guy didn't. I still dont know what that engine symbol is supposed to be. I have to get this thing done before the weekend because i am leaving town.
Lemme double check what the starter wire is on my car's wire diagram.
jay: In my opinion the turn light flashes in two conditions: 1.when the door is open - in order to warn other drivers that you may be dismounting from your car 2. after you turn off the car and leave it and didn't arm the alarm - it warns you what you didn't arm it. I think it's nice.
Emmett: That's very simple: You go to ignition harness plug (on the steering wheel column), find the ignition wire ( mine was thin red wire) cut it about 3 cm from the plug. The side closest to the plug you connect to the middle contact of relay (87A), the other side ( the longer part of ignition wire that heading to the starter engine) you connect to contact (30). That's it.
Holy crappers... I try the key to start 2 or 3 times without starting it and the car started beeping. Now nothing happens when i try to start it. I think i tripped some security feature. Anyone know how to get out of this? NEED HELP PLEASE!!!1
I'm haveing the same problem with the Huatai ht-800d remote start and I am stuck with out my truck untill the I tell the installer how to fix the problem. I have a gas powered 99 Suburban. The eng. shut off after a couple of seconds. Can some one PLEASE HELP if you have any tips.
If someone post the page that shows all the wires (the diagram) I will explain where to put all the cables in simple words. But I need for someone to post it because I lost mine. Also post the door lock diagram to explain it. I got mine working in just 3hrs. Also if someone needs the instructions in Spanish let me know.
5P Purple -- This wire goes to the battery charging indicator or to the engine oil indicator. Also, if you don't find one of these wires you can connect it a wire with constant +12v or a wire that when you start the car has +12v. I jumped mine with the +12v of the alarm. Note: If you don't connect this wire the car won't start remotely, the car will start but it will shutdown in about 1.2 sec.
Green -- this wire goes to the hand brake. It goes to a pin that makes ground when you pull the hand break. Also if you don't find this cable you can connect it to ground polaroid or to the chassis of the car, but this is not recommended. Note: If you don't connect this wire the car won't start remotely, the car will turn on but it won't crank.
Orange -- this wire goes to the stop light cable, for easy finding check the foot brake and look for a switch with 2 cables and follow the cable that doesn't have power (it receive power when you press the brake) Note: if you start the car remotely and you press the brake the car will shutoff.
Blue -- this wire goes to the door sensor it can be + or - . The alarm is set to -- by factory to use + see the jumper table.
Red -- this was the only wire that I didn't connect, but I think that it's for the rollup window.
12P Central Door Lock: [Orange, white, yellow, orange/black, white/black, yellow/black] First check how your doors lock work. In this part, take a look to the cables that go to the lock switch. Then check which wire has +12v. Then connect a wire to ground (-) and touch all the cables that don't have the +12v. If the locks went up and down you have a negative trigger. The wire that makes the locks go down goes to the White/Black wire and the one that makes them go up goes to the White wire. Then join the Yellow wire and the Yellow/Black to ground them. The Orange and Orange/Black don't go anywhere.
Now if the locks don't do anything with the ground, connect the meter to +12v and touch all the wires, one of the wires will make the meter turn on. Now connect a wire to the +12v then touch all the wires that didn't make the meter go on. If the locks went up and down you have a positive trigger. The wire that makes the locks go down goes to the White/Black wire and the one that makes them go up goes to the White wire. Then join the Yellow wire to the Yellow/Black and connect to a +12v wire. The Orange and Orange/Black don't go anywhere. For the other two I don't know.
Grey -- this wire goes to the trunk or hood sensor. The sensor must be negative; it's like the hand brake sensor. Here you use the metal thing; the metal thing is for the hood.
Red/black -- is for the trunk release. This wire sends ground. If your trunk motor uses +12v to open you will need to use a relay.
Pink -- it goes to the siren wire (the red one)
Brown -- it goes to the turning signal. Note: it has two brown cables to use one for the left and one for the right.
Yellow/red -- it goes to the 85 of the relay the rest is like Mighty Mouse said: "That's very simple: You go to ignition harness plug (on the steering wheel column), find the ignition wire ( mine was thin red wire) cut it about 3 cm from the plug. The side closest to the plug you connect to the middle contact of relay (87A), the other side ( the longer part of ignition wire that heading to the starter engine) you connect to contact (30). That's it."
6P Black -- Ground Yellow -- STR Blue -- ACC Brown -- ON Red - +12v Green -- air conditioner
I have also installed this alarm and I have the same problem that the engine will run for about five secnds then shuts off. Does anyone know what the solution is I think it might be the purple wire for the oil pressure/battery meter that shuts your engine down if it runs low or out. any ideas? My installation is on a 98 jeep wrangler. thanks alot
charles; Purple -- This wire goes to the battery charging indicator or to the engine oil indicator. Also, if you don't find one of these wires you can connect it a wire with constant +12v or a wire that when you start the car has +12v. I jumped mine with the +12v of the alarm. Note: If you don't connect this wire the car won't start remotely, the car will start but it will shutdown in about 1.2 sec.
I HAVE INSTALL MY HT800D ALARM THAT I BOUGHT FROM EBAY. I CAN NOT GET THE FEATURE "AUTO MODE" OTHER WISE KNOWN AS "OWNER RECONITION" TO WORK. INSTRUCTION SAID TO TURN ON THIS FEATURE I WOULD HAVE TO DO THE FOLLOWING; 1. DISARM ALARM 2. OPEN DOOR 3. TURN IGNITION TO "ON" 4. PRESS AND HOLD THE 4TH BUTTON (THE ONE WOTH THE LIGHT SIMBLY) FOR 3 SECOND WITH DISTANCE OF 2-3 METER = ABOUT 6.75 FEET. THE SIREN SHOULD EMIT A SHORT CHIRP AND AUTOMODE SHOULD DISPLAY IN MY REMOTE SCREEN.
SO FARE I HAVE NO LUCK AT ALL IN GEETING THIS FEATURE TO WORK. I HAVE QUESTION REGUARDING THE 3 DIODES ON THE SIX PIN (6P) IGNITION WIRES. (SEE PICTURE). DIODE ARE ONE WAY FLOW e-. MY QUESTION IS IF I INSTALL THESE DIODE, MY ALARM WILL NOT KNOW IF THE KEY IS ON WHAT POSITION OR ANY POSITION.
SO THE BIG QUESTION IS FOR THOSE WHOM WAS ABLE TO GET THEIR ALARM WORK WITH ALL THE FEATURES, "DID YOU USED OR INSTALL THE THREE DIODE AS SHOWN ON THE DIAGRAM"?
XIONG: These are only arrows that show current flow direction, not diodes, so you don't use any diodes at all. Regarding 'owner recognition" feature mine worked well and I in order to turn it on I operated according to manual - so try it again. Personally I dislike this feature and turned it off as every time I park my car beside my house the car may open up without me noticing that. It sences the remote control in 10-20 meters range , so it kind of dangerous feature.
Does anyone have a copy of the Huatai HT-800D instructions they could send me? I have one installed in the truck I just bought. Remote start works fine, but the alarm goes off about every four hours! I don't understand all the features of the remote control either. thanks
I have a couple of questions about this system. Can you attach the (5P Purple -- This wire goes to the battery charging indicator or to the engine oil indicator) to the tachometer?
Also I have to connect the (Brown -- it goes to the turning signal) to a negative parking light I assume it is the same as the turn signals. I noticed that the wires are positive will I need a relay since I need to connect them to a negative? One more question is on the hand brake wire any clue where I can pick that up in a 2001 Hyundai Elantra?
I have a couple of questions about this system. Can you attach the (5P Purple -- This wire goes to the battery charging indicator or to the engine oil indicator) to the tachometer?
-You can't attach it to the tachometer, but you can attach it to the same +12v wire of the alarm (the red one in the 6P)
Also I have to connect the (Brown -- it goes to the turning signal) to a negative parking light I assume it is the same as the turn signals. I noticed that the wires are positive will I need a relay since I need to connect them to a negative?
-Yes, you can do that, but with the relay, but make sure that you attach the wire to the turning light and not to the stop light.
One more question is on the hand brake wire any clue where I can pick that up in a 2001 Hyundai Elantra?
-You will see a pin some where in the hand break. This pin is like the door's pin. Attach the wire to the cable that only makes ground when you pull the hand brake.
Geronimo: I've wired pink ( oil pressure sense ) wire to constant +12V, and green ( hand brake ) wire to body. Firstly remote start worked in some strange mode : engine started and after 3 sec of running the starter worked again making some inpleasant noise. After a while something changed: the car starts and them alarm goes off and the engine shuts down.. Do you have any idea whats wrong?
Mighty Mouse: "engine started and after 3 sec of running the starter worked again making some inpleasant noise" -Make sure that the purple wire is wired to a constant +12V wire, make sure that the wire is also +12V when the car is on. Because the purple wire is also used to notify the alarm that the car started successfully. "the car starts and them alarm goes off and the engine shuts down.." -When you said that the alarm goes off, you mean that the red wire lost the +12V?
Geronimo: purple is connected to 6P brown wire that goes to "ON" position of the ignition switch.This wire has +12V after start for sure.
Alarm goes off means that alarm sounds ( as in case that someone broke into the car ). So when I remote start my car it starts for 1 sec, and then I hear the alarm and the engine shuts while alarm continuing make noise until I disarm it.
Ok, I think there is something wrong with the connection. Try this: Disconnect the 12p plug from the alarm. Disconnect the orange wire (5P), the blue wire (5P) and the red wire (5P). Disconnect the green wire (6P). Connect the purple wire (5P) to the red wire (6P).
After doing this, try the remote starter again. If the car starts successfully, connect the wires, that I toll you to disconnect, one by one checking the remote starter each time you connect one of the wires. If the car starts again successfully proceed to connect other wire. By this way you can check where the problem is. If the problem is when connecting the 12P plug, check the grey wire and the yellow/red wire. If the car does the same thing let me know.
OK II'm having some issues. I'll lock and unlock the car and for some reason the pictue on the lcd screen does,'t chsnge. So I can't even test the remote start since the system doesn,t indicate armed. Having trouble installing blinker lights also, I hooked them up to my negaive parking light wire with a relay. worked for a little bit then quit. It doesn't seem to be fring from the module anymore.
Hi there, I was wondering what the deal is with the starter kill relay. The diagram seems to tell you to hook the yellow wire on the relay (position 86) to the "on" wire on the steering wheel column but there is no mention of this in this forum. Do i do anything with this yellow wire or just tape it up.
corey: There is a bridge between the contact 87A and the contact 30, so when you complete the circuit with +12v on the contact 56 and ground on the contact 85 the bridge opens.
Yellow/red -- This is the ground. When the alarm goes on it will send ground to complete the circuit.
The contact 56 goes to the ON wire. So, when you try to start the car, when the alarm is on, the alarm will send ground and you will complete the circuit (with out knowing) when you put the car in on position. The bridge will open cutting the starter cable.
So, cut the starter wire. The side closer to the plug goes connect to the middle contact of relay (87A), the other side (the longer part of ignition wire that heading to the starter engine) goes connect to contact (30).
Brian Brower, I have experience same problem with the remote showing incorrect information status of the alarm status. What I did what remove and reinstall the battery of the remote and waite for a while. It all seem to be working fine after that.
I am greatly disappointed. The two way communication system with this alarm seem very slow and unreliable.
Questions? This alarm has two warning system(warn away and alart) right? I have not being able to get the "warn away" to work properly. As soon as walk by my car, it give a "warning" following by the actual "alart or trigger of the alarm". Can anyone shed some light on this area for me please.
hi, thanks for the info brian and geronimo, the alarm works pretty good and remote start also works, I still have to figure out the locks i'll get it eventually. The biggest problem now is that the alarm rearms itself even though I switched the pin on the p2 jumper to off. I switched the pin with the alarm off and then rearmed when i finished like the instructions said to but it still rearms???any ideas.... also is there a way to stop the marker lights from flashin when remotely started?? thanks
Hi, i purchased this car alarm w/ remote start off ebay. I have a 2006 Scion xB. I got it professionally installed this past sunday. First question I have is when the car doors are open, does the hazard lights start blinking? My second question or problem i should say is my car will sometimes not remote start. I think it only happens if I don't use my car for several of hours (meaning I come home from work at 7:00pm and won't start the car until 9:00am the following morning). I live here in Ft. Lauderdale so it's not like it's really cold here. When i remote start my car in the morning it attempts to start but it doesn't. If I start my car w/ the car keys and then turn it off...I will then use the remote start and it starts up fine. Same when I go to work. I park my car around 9:30am and around lunch time (3pm) it won't remote start again. Does anyone have an idea what's going on here?
Nicholas Khan, your problem may be one of the two reasons.
1. If your car attempted to start 1 time only, check the 5p connector, purple wire. Use a volt meter. This wire should have the following readings
key on "acc" position = 0 volt DC. key on "on" position = 0 volt DC. key on "engine idling" = 12 volt DC.
If you are not getting the same reading as above, your technician may have connected the 5p connector purple wire to an ignition wire. Most technician will do this get away with it especially in newer vehicle and in warmer climate temperature region.
The 5p connector purple wire should be connect to a special signal in your vehicle that has 12volt or higher only when the vehicle successufly started up and idling. This is why manufacture suggested connected to charging system light or oil pressure switch. If the vehicle failed to start up, the 5p connector purple wire will get a negitive or a 0 volt reading and letting the alarm know to reattempted to start again.
(I am not very good in english please ignore my spellings and grammers hope this help)
when you guysunlockthe door does the dome light come on? if not does anyone now how to hookit up so it will. also what is the autoarm feature for on the jumper. I,mthinkingthisneed to be on for the alarm to work when you lock the door.
when you guysunlockthe door does the dome light come on? if not does anyone now how to hookit up so it will. also what is the autoarm feature for on the jumper. I,mthinkingthisneed to be on for the alarm to work when you lock the door.
I'll tell you guys how to fix the remote start problem. Rip it out of your car and buy the Viper 7900 (color lcd display and remote start) - thats what I did and i'm loving the new alarm...lol. I really hated the blinking hazard lights when you open the doors for Huatai alarm & the intermittent remote start. You can get the Viper 7900 from www.hookedontronics.com for an excellent price.
I'm stuck, the alarm goes off 10 sec. after it's turned on, and it shows hood/trunk open. I replaced the cheap hood pin with a new one, still does it. Can't get the remote start to work, think it's because of the same reason. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Hey, does anyone know about installing these systems on the newer Nissan vehicles. They have the transponder anti theft thing, but also if the transponder senses the wrong key, it shuts down all systems and you have to get it towed to the dealer to have them reset it. It's not covered by warranty or anything. So if I a bypass module, could there be some error and cause my car to lock up?
Hello Everyone, I bought the HT-800D alarm from eBay for my 1997 Saturn SL2. I have it installed. But I can't get the remote start to work. I hear the relays clicking in the module. But nothing seems to happen. The following is the wire color codes.
Constant 12V+ Red (either) Ignition Switch Harness (2 Wires)
Starter Yellow Ignition Switch
Ignition Pink Ignition Switch Harness
Ignition 2 Brown Ignition Switch Harness, Accessory 2
Accessory Orange Ignition Switch Harness
Tach Purple/White Multi Coil Pack or Black at Injector
has anyone installed one of these on a saab 9000 b4? its a 95 model. when i lock the doors with the factory keys, and try to remote start it, the factory alarm sets off. but when i dont lock it, it cranks right up. need help to figure it out.cos i cant take out the factory alarm cos it does more things than i want to mess with
saab 9000, never done it, but it sounds like factory kill relay is your problem. Doors are locked and factory alarm on. Relay kills any chance of starting. Doors are unlocked and the relay is deactivated allowing you to start car with 800 unit. Find relay, disconnect power sourse and it might work. Similiar setup in our HD800D+ install manual.
i have a 2005 dodge durango and i everything works fine except for when i arm it it goes after about 10 seconds saying that the door is open doe s anyone know how to fix this problem i had trouble finding whic wires goes to the lock unlock can someone give me that thanks please respond asap
John, haven't installed one in a camaro,but did in automatic astro van, similar wiring. Did you connect 6 pin connector like this: red to 12v, blk to gnd, yel to starter(yel), brn to ign 1(pink), blu to ign 2(org),and grn to accy(brn). 5 pin connector: purple to a 12v source,grn to emer. brake switch (by the way grounding this wire will work but you bypass safty measures)
As a new member I'd like to say HELLO to all of you. Now,I have my eyes on a HT-800D system at the Salvation Army Store - read Ebay.For $80 it sure has a lot of features BUT is it any good??????? I plan to install it on my son's 99 Hyundai Tiburon along with power lock actuators (car doesn't have factory power locks,only power windows) I never done any alarm systems but I'm very handy around cars and pretty much everything.I don't think it will be a tough job if I have you guys/gals to help when I screw up.My only concern is:HT-800D WORTH BUYING????
Thanks.After all I think I'll go with the new Python 990.Price:$499 but better safe than sorry.The HT800D looks kind of cheap and sounds like lots of problems.
PYTHON 990 2-Way Security System / Remote Start System with Responder SST Technology The ultimate 2-way security and remote start systems, with SST, one mile* range! Responder SST systems employ Spread Spectrum Technology, digital freuency hopping and multiple frequency transmission to assure that, if a frequency is blocked, the signal still goes through. ResponderSST also uses dual error correction systems to combat signal data corruption and minimize signal interference. The result is rcck solid range of up to one full mile*!
6 channel remote start / security / keyless entry system Confirms commands and system triggers on the transceiver LCD screen Clone-Safe Code-Hoping Parking Light Flash Failsafe Starter Kill Anti-Grind Stinger DoubleGaurd Shock Sensor Revenger Six-tone Siren Bright Blue LED Status Indicator Miniature XCRS (Extreme Relay Satellite) Defroster Output Built-in Turbo Timer Dome Light Supervision Comfort Closure 4 Auxiliary Outputs Horn Honk Includes One 2-way Color Responder SST Transceiver
I clipped this out of a web site. Don't know if it's helpful or not ? asianwolf DONT BUY astra 777 by: bargain_motors_co( 11) 16 out of 18 people found this guide helpful. Guide viewed: 1570 times Tags: astra 777 | asianwolf | alarm | pageing alarm | asian
this is the worst alarm company anyone could buy from , they will not only screw up your order , they will file a non-payment with ebay even though you have paid , they offer no warranty andf if you have a problem , they dont even answer their emails , i speak from expereince !!!
they are selling rebadged scyteck alarms , do a google on the company and you see that scy teck is who makes the alarm , you can buy it cheaper and get a warranty with them , also go to 12volt.com , and do a search , you see that this horrible company ( asianwolf ) or ( asian what ever )
OK.I got it.It is junk.What can I get in the range of $150 with the HT800D features.Don't get me wrong,HT800D sounds like a dream but reading some posts I found out that it is a pain in the butt to get them working right.Like I said it will be installed in a 99 Hyundai Tiburon along with aftermarket power lock actuators that I need to get also.My son,also wants the remote up/down windows feature on the system.HEEEELP!!!
hi i have bought a HT-800 with starter, but yesterday i installed this on my car Vw golf3 Tdi with confort module, but the alarm doesn't do anything, the led flashes i think ther is all ok. The trigger to doors is positive(off signal is Open doors right?) I don't want to conect the start function but what cables i need to conect?(YEllow,blue and brown do i need to conect it)? Another thing the double pulse wire do i need to shunt it? The led flashes and when i ty to configure another remote the sirene sounds and i can do it! but don't know what is happening with it! could anyone help me?}
Bruno,I believe the door trigger is negative for all Vws. If you decide to hook-up starter (6pin connector)yel goes to starter, blue goes to 2nd ignition, if you have one, brown goes to ignition 1 and green goes to accessories. Vws doors are double pulsed. I don't have a clue what's happening with remote. Take a look at www.the12volt.com sight, maybe you can find some help there.
Hi i don't know what is happening! the alrm only do this: The doors it can close because i make the shunt to double pulse, and it can close when i push the brake pedal but when i take off the ignition key it make it close signal too. When i try to enter in alarm configure with ignition key he bips'i think it's all ok with it. But when i try to colse or do anything else he desn't do anything more, the lighs don't flash and the doors don't close.
bcd94, I'm not sure but it looks like you need to the following: 5PIN: blue to the door trigger. 12PIN: white to door relay unlock, wht/blk to door relay lock, yel&yel/blk to ground. 6PIN: remove brown connection. Jumper Wire settings: P1 connect to negative side(-) not positive(+)
Well alan grm thank you for your help and thank you all, tonight, but it has some problem, this can detect the doors open, i have to see if the pin is correct. in the picture the blue is what i connect, 5 pin blue is connected , but i'm not sure if there is right connected. Hum about the 12 door lock i have checked and there is positive trigger, what about the brown conection i have to check if ther is ok. My problem now is that, the alarm don't detect the door open i think it's bad wire conected, but hood is ok, and it can't close the doors pressing the close bootom with ignition key. I have to check the door pin connection and test it again. Another question what do you recomend Ultrasonic sensor or radar sensor??
Hi my alarm is working fine , but ther is a problem i don't understand. When i try to close the doors when car is running this can't close, i don't know why? Someone has this problem? Another thing in datasheets i read the doors close with double pulse signal, but my car can colose with one pulse too, what's that? My car has confort module, but how can i close my windows with this alarm?
i bought a HT-800D. i installed it, everything works fine ,but the remote starter turns on for a couple of sec then it turns off and the security light of the car blinks .is it because i installed something wrong or because i need a by-pass.i know my car has something called a passlock system
I have a huge problem. I have installed this alarm months ago and just found this site. However the previous posts have not helped. I have a 2001 Mitsubishi Diamante and can't get the remote start to work. I have installed the HT-800 and the DEI 555U bypass module. I beleve the problem is with the installation of the bypass module and I have lost my installation directions and would appreciate any information on installing this to my car. The problem I am having is that when I push the remote start it will crank but won't run. When I put a key in the ignition (without turning it) the car will crank and run. It will not run if the key is just held up to the ignition and today I realized that it does the same thing if I disconect the bypass module. I was told that the light green wire in the ignition switch is the keysense and I connected it to the light green wire on the bypass module, the red is connected to constant 12v and the blue with white strip I connected to the blue remote start (-) output on the alarm. Please let me know what else I need to do to fix this problem. Any information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
hey guys, I want it your advice, i just bought the Huatai HT-800 off ebay and havent installed it yet. I was wondering if there is anything I should know before hand (any hints) as how to avoid common problems that others have expressed in here. i drive a 2001 civic. anything that could help me out. I will get it done professionally but there is always a chance that the installer might not realize a specific problem with this brand. I would realy appreciate if you would reply to this. I am mostly concerned with the remote starter. also if you think i shouldnt even install the system let me know...
Bobby, you got a Transponder anti-theft system. It recognizes the chip inside the key and allows it to start when close enough to the ignition cylinder. If you take the panels apart that are around the ignition, you should notice a plastic ring that goes around the edge of the cylinder. That is the chip sensing unit. I have tried using bypass modules but have never gotten them to work. In my car, I was able to take that plastic ring off, attach a spare key to it, and store it somewhere in the steering column.
Seems like a lot of people have the same type of issue with these things. Most vehicles from about 2000, or 98 or so have built-in immobilzers. Whenever installing a remote starter you'll need to install a by-pass module to duplicate the key being in the ignition. Now the immobilizers won't, at least shouldn't be fully by-passed like the name of the module implies.
Kind of a long project in typing for me but if you have any questions I might be able to help through email. Or even better if you're in the Vancouver BC area I could always help you in person.
Hi There, I had a similiar problem and found out it was the connection of the purple wire in the 5 wire harness. I tried oil pressure and tach points, finally hooked to a constant 12v sourse and the problem went away.
On the HUATAI HT800D alarm the P5 connector goes as follows PURPLE goes to theback of the fuse block on the fuse that runs between the engine run and the alternator. GREEN goes to the top on the parking brake on the switch. RED goes to the back of the fuse block onn the wire that has the electric windows circuit breaker/fuse. BLUE goes to the light under the dash that is on when the door is open ORANGE goes to the power wire of the brake switch.
For everone please make sure the BLUE wire that comes from the alarm by it's self is connected to the same pin as the post 86 of your bypass module. this is what enables the running of the motor after it is started.
NOTE: I just realized that i mistated the message about the blue wire on the side of the alarm Huatai HT800D this wire is to go the the negative trigger of the alarm and goes to the - output of the start module. this wire is the trigger to remote start the vehicle the same as the yellow/red does when you key start.
Here is another option this makes your car horn blow when the car alarm goes off. Parts: 1. diode (pick it up at Radio shack) 2 normally close relays(just the standard one like you used for the remote start). Step 1. Connect the positive of the diode to the positive wire of the siren. Step 2. Tap the orange alarm wire, which is then connected to pin 85 of 1st relay, pin 86 of the relay is connected to the negative of the diode. Pin 30 is connected with a constant 12 volt, pin 87A is connected to pin 86 of the 2nd relay. Step 3. Locate the black/white dome-light output(you can use the door open + wire under the dash also) of the alarm and connect it to pin 85 of the 2nd relay. Step 4. Pin 30 of the 2nd relay is connected to a constant 12 volt and pin 87A is connected to the positive of the car horn. Only when the alarm is triggered will the car horn honk.
I forgot to tell you why you would want to do this. Here is is my friends the first thing a car thief is going to do is get the siren off to stop the noise well the car horn is also blowing to keep the attention on your car.
I have a 2006.5 Kia Optima. They haven't made a repair manual for this car yet. The problem is this: The main problem is getting the remote to work. I can clear the codes for the remotes (I turn key on/off 3 times then hit the valet switch for 5 seconds) but when I hit the key on the remote nothing happens. I think I have everything wired right except for the lights. I don't know if my car is positive or negative. There are two brown wires that I don't know where to hook them up. Also, I have the Brown (in 6 pin harness) going to Ignition, is this right? The manual says to "on". Is on the same as ignition?
TODD, First when you ask a question state the cable and the pin you are speaking of. If you are talking about the brown wires that go the the parking lights. they must be connected to the lights on the car if you are speaking about the brown light that are on the end of the alarm they are for the pulse of the alarms lock and unlock for the doors. here is the wiring diagram if you also are using the remote start the blue wire on the end of the alarm goes to pin 85 of the relay. use this link to get your wiring diagram. http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/ it explains the wires for the parting light and pin 1 and pin 7 of the P12 plug goes not matter the brown on the 6P connector goes to the Green in your ignition harness. the red in 5P is used if you have the window roll down function working
TODD also to check on the parking lights polarity the positive from your car harness is connected to 12P pin 1 let light and 12P pin 7 for right but this will require relays i would run a wire from the lights in front thru the firwall and to the alarm wires without the relays. the bulldog site shows how to do the relays.
Sorry and thank you. The brown wires pin 1 and 7 of the P12 I am confused about. I have the diagram from Bulldog and it shows parking lights negative. It also shows parking lights positive which there are two but there is a relay needed. In the Huatai manual it shows that the two brown wires are positive so why is there a relay needed to go from a positive to a positive? The hardest part is I might have these wires hooked up correctly, but for some reason the remotes won't program. I have removed the batteries and resinstalled them. The remote will beep and vibrate when the new batteries are installed, but when trying to program them to the huatai unit, nothing happens. When I press a button on the remote, the little tower icon flashes on the remote, that's it. I would settle for the car to just turnover or anything from the remote, but it won't do anything.
todd the wires have to be keep apart and this is done via the relay that is why i said you would be better to run two wire to the front of your car and connect your turn signal lights to the wire you run. #18 or 20 is fine. the other problem sounds like you have mis wired something just check very close and you may find it.
bassuney The first thing you need to do is go to this web site to locate your car wiring http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/ then click on the vehicle wiring diagrams and locate your cars wiring. your door is located with the + wire of the light that comes on when you open the drivers door this should be at your feet under the dash. your parking brake will have a switch with normally one wire that it. on your foot brake there will be a switch connect to the = wire. your dome light and door light are inter connected. if you can not find the wire colors via the diagrams from the web site let me know.
Thank you kenneth l dixon for all your help. I was sure I had wired everything right. After driving the car for half the day today the remotes just started working. I am not sure why, but they did. The only problem I still have is connecting the lights and also when the car remote starts, it doesn't blow any air. I think I might have the accessory wire to the wrong wire. My car has 2 accessory /heater wires. I probably have it hooked up to the wrong one.
Well now it's not working. It was working most of the day, I left it alone for a couple hours and now it doesn't work. I left it with the alarm on and a couple hours later the remotes wouldn't open the car or even show they they are doing anything. I opened the door with the key and the alarm went off. So the alarm stayed armed, but the remotes seemed to have lost memory. I tried programming the remotes again but they won't.
I'm sure there is a wiring problem somewhere. The odd thing is that I set the alarm and left the car alone for a couple hours. When I got back the remotes would not read the unit. I have the purple wire 5P connected to a 12v constant, but that was with the door open when it was checked and it is attached to the turn signal instrument. I am thinking that I just need to hook it up to the 12v constant that the unit is hooked up to. Maybe the smaller constant wire loses juice when it is cold where the other wouldn't. IT has been avereging -5 deg. here. I REALLY need this thing working.
I have the purple wire 5p connector straight to the constant 12v that the power wire 6 connector for the unit connects to. So it would show 12v all the time. It worked again today half the day, but when I set the alarm and let the car sit for a couple hours, the remote won't do anything. I'm sure tomorrow after driving for a couple hours will work again. I am sure I have a wire misplaced. Huatai website: www.huatai-alarm.com/
The purple wire 5p connector, you said it should have the following:
key on "acc" position = 0 volt DC. key on "on" position = 0 volt DC. key on "engine idling" = 12 volt DC
Is it ok to have it to a constant 12v or does it have to have those readings you have above? It is just weird that when the unit is working I can set the alarm and it works fine, it is just when I leave it for a couple hours that the remotes don't read the unit anymore and the system stops working. When I come back to the car the alarm is still armed, I have to open the door with the key then the alarm goes off. I then hit the valet switch twice which then shuts the alarm off but after that the system won't work until the next day when the car is driven for a couple hours. And what would I hook the purple wire up to that only has 12v when the car is idling?
I now have eveything wired the way it should and still nothing. I am going to try the turn on for 10 minutes and turn off 3 times. If this doesn't work I give up! It still works for part of the day, it seems like when the car is warmed up. If this thing only works when the car is warm, that defeats the purpose of a remote start.
Long story short, I received a new unit from the person I bought it from thinking that was the problem. I pluged in all the wired to the new unit and now others things are happening. I turn the key to on three times and hit the valet switch for 5 seconds and I only get one confirmation beep instead of two and I can only program one remote, as soon as I hit the button on the remote it leaves programming mode. Also, now the central door lock system doesn't work. When I hit the lock button on the remote I can hear the locks actuate, but they actually don't lock and the remote doesn't say that they are locked. Last, the communication module plug broke and the wires came out so I am wondering if anyone know the order they go in the plug. I thought I had it right and I soldered them directly to the unit but I might have the order mixed up.
is this alarm really a act of god to install i think i am another sucker that bought it off ebay...i cant even find anyone to install it for me....the wireing diagram they send is you is crap..... i have a 95 jeep wrangler.....is there anything that anyone can send me to make this a little easier....husband is disabled so any help is more than i have with the crap that came in the box
jen cable i had sent you a message to give me more information about your car and i will see if i can help you. i have one of the huatai HT800D alarms in my car and it works great but it is a very stressful install.
my jeep hopefully will be a easy install it is a 95. i do not have power locks so i do not need that in stalled and i dont have power trunk so i dont need that installed i would like the remote starter but i have a manual transmission let me know if you need more information
now for another problem i hooked up the alarm only nothing else the pink wire to the horn grounded the horn and the red to the batt.. plus the reset and the communcator but the problem im having now is that **** thing wont do anything no alarm no beeping no nothing HELP
First thing jen did your alarm not come with a siren. That is the use for the pink wire. You can also connect your horn to the output for the siren (pink wire)but this takes a relay and that is posted earier in this forum. If you have more problems please rewrite. The reason for the rule that you read the full post of this site is so you can get the full understanding of the alarm system. good luck ken
I bought a ht800d but it only has a shock sensor and no ultrasonic sensor. The main unit as also only one 3P connector. I have an ultrasonico sensor. How can i connect both at the same time? Does the shock sensor detect when a window is broken?
Hi, I also bought a HT-800d and was wondering what some of the extra wires are for(yellow, yellow/black,white/black), can anyone help? also this remote starter is suppose to be a diesel model. Can anyone tell me how to program it to delay start or is it already set. If so how long of a delay is it?
Hi there, In regards to the extra wires there for the door locking/unlocking feature. I know nothing about the diesel features for this unit. Maybe you can find some help at http:\www.the12volt.com site Hope that helps
Hello, the p1-p4 are jumpers. P1 is for triggering the door locks (-*/+). P2 is for auto arming (on/off*). P3 is engine disable/enable* P4 is for door locking (power*/vacuum, for example an audi has a vacuum door locking system). The * by the symbols above means factory setting. Hope this helps
Anyone know where I can find the installation book instructions? I had my alarm installed in a 97 Saturn. Well I took it out and installed it in a 95 Suzuki Swift. Well the Suzuki doesn't have power lock or windows. I just bought universal power locks and windows. So I need to find the Instruction Booklet for the HT-800D Alarm. I misplaced mines. Thank You in Advance