SpLChoIce- Read this before you do anything !!!


Bronze Member
Username: Phil_salisbury

Post Number: 62
Registered: Sep-06

Just do me the favor of building the enclosure without it looking like you rushed it.

Remember, if you want this enclosure to go together with the least amount of grief, the parts need to be cut true and square, otherwise, the assembly of the parts are going to fight you all the way.

One last piece of advise.

3/4" MDF is not a true 3/4" thick, it's just a tad more than 3/4", so here's a tip for ya for the part sizes when being cut:

Cut parts:
- Gray 20 11/16" wide x lenght stated.
- Blue - cut to size stated
- Yellow - cut to size stated
- Orange - cut to size stated
- Light Blue - Cut to size stated
- Red - Cut to size stated

Next tip:

Parts Red - Yellow - Blue - Light Blue - Orange are all the same dim @ 18 1/2" - cut this dim for all parts at the same time. Then cut the other dim to size the parts.

Order of assembly

Take a top or bottom part, attach the front baffles.

Next - attach the sides, port walls

Next - Find center on front baffle, mark layout lines for subwoofer cutout as per Kickers detail.

Next - Find the center between sides and port wall, mark a line for center, measure 3/8" off center, mark another line. Attach brace even to the offset line.

Attach the back, then the top.


The brace detail I provided.

The dimension stated per the cuts were designed based on information I had available on older S15L7's.

Before you attach the brace, drop the subwoofer in the cutout and then put the brace in. If the brace contacts any part of the subwoofer, mark on the brace what need to be cut away, give yourself a good 3/4" clearance.

The depth of the brace from the back of the subwoofer I gave it a good 2", it's the 8" that may or may not need to be cut wider.

When it's all said and done, there should be no or just a slight overhang of the back panel of the top and bottom edges.

If your using Liquid Nails to build this enclosure, alot of fitting issue's are going to occur because Liquid Nails is thick sh!t and if it's cold, it's not going to be easy to work with. if you can warm it up before using, so much the better.

If your not going to be using liquid nails, disregard.

Let's see, yeah, if your going to use screws as the primary fasteners, pre-drill, counter sink, don't space them any closer than 4".

The MDF parts, if there is a slight bow in them, make sure the bow is out--- NOT IN. It's easier to push the bow in even with edges than to pull them even to the edges.

If your going to use any squares - ie - framer's, combination - check them for square, if the square ain't square,,,,nothing is going to be square.

Make sure all cuts a parallel.

Last, don't cut squat till you check it twice.

Silver Member
Username: Bump05

Hesperia, CA USA

Post Number: 113
Registered: Aug-06
Alright thanks :-) ill show you pics when im done...one last thing i kinda wanted to move away from carpet and use some kinda of texture spray or something i saw it once and it looked nice, do you know kinda what im talking about

Gold Member
Username: Jmloughrey

Farmington, CT

Post Number: 1599
Registered: Jul-04
Spray on truck bed liner?

Bronze Member
Username: Phil_salisbury

Post Number: 65
Registered: Sep-06
Your thinking about that Krylon Texture Spray that come in a two part kit.

Yeah, that would right nice on that box after it's done.
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