Well, i really dont know. I new at this. But, i do know that i bridged the two subs. When i had them hooked to each channel separetly one of the subs was moving backwards. However, I did not have the positive and negative backwards, i double checked that. But when i bridged the connection, it took care of that problem. Its hooked up in series right now. Would parallel work better. I have no clue whats wrong.
hey i have and idea for you...i had to do this with a couple of my subs i had awhile ago...so listen up...k on ur amp if it has 2 channels or more.go and take one positive wire and put it on one channel on the positive side...than take that wire and run it to the positive side on the box...than take a the other wire and put it on the other channel on the negitive side...so you will be useing both channels but only 1 positive and on negative spot....than hook the negative to the negative spot to the box but for the other 12....so now you have for one 12 a positive hooked in and than on the side where the other 12 is...you will just have a negative...k with me so far...ok now take another wire and the positive you hooked in the box hook it to that than run it to the other side of the box to the negative side....and the side with just the positive left with the other wire ran.....go to the other side of the box and take a wire and put it to the negative and run that wire to the other side without the positive......k thats it if it dont work write me and i have another to do it and if do work i should know the problem...
just "trying out different connections" is a great way to blow some subs or fry an amp. your gunna ruin some equipment very fast if you keep up this trial and error technique your using.
ya its really gonna blow something you dumb a** not to mention i have six amps runing like that you fukin retard, oh and by the way its not a different connection you stupis a**,oh and by the way if it could blow or fry your amp which it cant its the same way as whick as if you were running it regualurly off both channles have you ever heard that a half a channel could burn up but only the positive or negitive still works so there for you have to run it of the other channel to...oh and if was gonna ruin some equipment it would have done it to me already and it hasnt in the past 8 months no matter how high i have it up or anything...and actully it ruins better that way cuz did you know also that when you run an amp (lets say a 1500 watt amp) it dont run that full 100% of it ur actully only running 1000 watts out of it..so it show how much you know and not a god damn thing you dumb a**.
wow, put your roids off to the side and calm down there guy. first, I was obviously talking to the author of this thread (NVmyBOOM). second, these statements scared me
"But when i bridged the connection, it took care of that problem. Its hooked up in series right now. Would parallel work better. I have no clue whats wrong."
this sounds like the person wiring everything isn't very experienced, and might try wiring everything down to too low of resistance, which COULD fry an amp. I know I wouldn't want to run my amp at .5 an ohm by accident.
so, in conclusion, his statements sounded like he was just using a "trial and error" approach to connecting his equipment, which is a BAD idea and CAN ruin equipment. sorry for trying to help someone
to James Ernest Powell, why so much profanity and anger?
"and actully it ruins better that way cuz did you know also that when you run an amp (lets say a 1500 watt amp) it dont run that full 100% of it ur actully only running 1000 watts out of it..so it show how much you know and not a god damn thing you dumb a**."
this is a funny statement too. i know you're trying to refer to an amp's efficiency, which most good class D's are around 80-85% efficient these days. but this has to do with power output (watts) compared to the current it must draw to obtain such (amps). so this means that a less efficient amplifier must draw more amps of current to put out the same wattage, placing more of a load on your alternator and battery.
in response to your statement, i'll say that if i purchase a quality amp that is rated at 1000w rms, it definitely can put out 1000w rms, as long as i have the proper electrical system to support such, even though the amp isn't "100% efficient".
That was very nice for a 1st post there James Ernest Powell...great way to make friends...I'll be willing to bet you don't get much help here in the future if you need it (which is doesn't sound like you ever will being that you're an expert and all)