Spl, sq, sql wtf does those mean?

 

Bronze Member
Username: Cutlass_man

Post Number: 21
Registered: Jun-06
spl, sq, sql
 

Silver Member
Username: Racer501

USA

Post Number: 344
Registered: Jun-05
spl is loudness pure loudness but sounds like crap

sq is sound quality sounds great normally cant get as loud as an spl system

sql is a mixture of SQ and SPL you want it to sound good and get loud
 

Bronze Member
Username: Cutlass_man

Post Number: 22
Registered: Jun-06
what subs would you prefer for sql i want the db to be at least 200 combined
 

Silver Member
Username: Ctmike

Ct.

Post Number: 764
Registered: Feb-06
200db!!

you know the record is like 180.5 i believe, good luck with hitting 200!
 

Silver Member
Username: Racer501

USA

Post Number: 345
Registered: Jun-05
lol srry man but the highest recorded car audio system is like 178 or so im not sure on exact number but its close to that im sure you would be happy if you could hit 140's
 

Bronze Member
Username: Cutlass_man

Post Number: 23
Registered: Jun-06
what can i get to hit the 130-40s?
 

Silver Member
Username: Ctmike

Ct.

Post Number: 766
Registered: Feb-06
what's your budget? quite a few can hit those numbers, install plays a big role in it.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Cutlass_man

Post Number: 24
Registered: Jun-06
i really dont have a budget but i dont wanna spend 1 g per sub... get stolen my alarm only goes so far
 

Bronze Member
Username: Cutlass_man

Post Number: 25
Registered: Jun-06
recall that i wanna hit 157 db in sql
 

Silver Member
Username: Ctmike

Ct.

Post Number: 767
Registered: Feb-06
any 2 of these should be loud enough for you:

http://ikesound.com/product-product_id/5554

http://www.soundsplinter.com/rls_series/rls12_inch_LMT_DIY_car_home_subwoofer_in formation.html

http://www.speedsound.com/product.asp?specific=jmnpirpok

you should really post a better budget cause people can suggest subs all day.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Cutlass_man

Post Number: 26
Registered: Jun-06
lets go 400-500 on subs alone
 

Silver Member
Username: Ctmike

Ct.

Post Number: 768
Registered: Feb-06
didn't catch that last post up there^

what kind of car this going in, and do you have the electrical upgrade for your car already?
 

Bronze Member
Username: Cutlass_man

Post Number: 27
Registered: Jun-06
no didnt see it when reposted, its going into a olds cutlass 98, electrical upgrade as in? i have a 7'' pioneer in-house dvd/mp3/cd/etc tv for the radio, besides that nope
 

Silver Member
Username: Ctmike

Ct.

Post Number: 772
Registered: Feb-06
a ho alt., new battery, big 3 upgrade.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Cutlass_man

Post Number: 29
Registered: Jun-06
when i make my box im putting a spot in for a sep battery to run off my main engine, whats a big 3 upgrade?
 

Silver Member
Username: Ctmike

Ct.

Post Number: 773
Registered: Feb-06
the big 3

1) Battery negative to chassis
2) Alternator to battery positive
3) Chassis to engine
 

Bronze Member
Username: Cutlass_man

Post Number: 30
Registered: Jun-06
2 batteries wouldnt solve that? whats that for anywayss?
 

Silver Member
Username: Ctmike

Ct.

Post Number: 774
Registered: Feb-06
had this saved when i first got on here, good thing to know:

So, from your battery, you have the power wire going to the power terminal on your amplifier and then your amplifier is grounded to the chassis of the vehicle. From here the current needs a way to get back to the negative battery terminal, and that way is through the first of the "Big 3," the battery negative to chassis wire. Upgrading this wire will "upgrade" the circuit between your battery and your amp by giving the current a larger path to flow through to get back to the battery.

Now, think of your alternator as the battery and your battery as the amp. From the positive post on your alternator, you have the second of the "Big 3," the alternator to battery positive wire supplying "power" to your battery. From there the battery, just like your amp, is grounded to the chassis through the wire mentioned in the previous paragraph. Again, the current needs a way to get from the chassis back to the alternator's "negative terminal" and that way is through the last of the "Big 3," the chassis to engine wire. Since your alternator is most likely mounted to your engine block using a metal or conductive mounting bracket, you can simply add your new wire from the chassis to one of the mounting posts for the alternator. Upgrading these two wires will "upgrade" the circuit between your alternator and your battery, again giving the current a larger path to flow through.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Cutlass_man

Post Number: 31
Registered: Jun-06
2 batteries wouldnt solve that? whats that for anywayss?
 

Silver Member
Username: Ctmike

Ct.

Post Number: 775
Registered: Feb-06
so since you aint asking bout one, i take it you got a ho alt. already?
 

Bronze Member
Username: Cutlass_man

Post Number: 32
Registered: Jun-06
a ho alt? what ctmike?
 

Silver Member
Username: Splmonster

Post Number: 183
Registered: May-06
high output alternator, it is the best thing u can do if ur running alot of watts
 

Bronze Member
Username: Cutlass_man

Post Number: 34
Registered: Jun-06
did u see the sites up there, would buying one of those subs beat harder than 3 jlaudio 12v1?
 

Silver Member
Username: Seth_walker

U.S.A.

Post Number: 151
Registered: Jul-05
hey brodey, i think you need to slow down abit. i'm not tryin to be rude but if you're serious about hittin 157 then you better have the knowledge of how to do it. you don't seem to have alot of experience w/ car audio which is cool, heck we all started somewhere, but maybe you should learn fisrt and then apply that knowledge. First of all i'd recommend these sites.

http://www.wickedcases.com

http://www.bace1.com

http://www.the12volt.com

those should get you started. also reading on this site for awhile should help out. like i said 157 is pretty frickin loud! especially in an sql system like you said. As for the whole "will this sub beat this sub" argument, it will often come down to the installer, given that the sub are somewhat close in performance. to explain the ho alt, big systems need alot of power and when the car is running this is supplied by the alternator. if you're trying to draw more power than an alternator can put out then you'll start damaging equipment. Also the big three upgrade is upgrading your cars main electrical wiring, to allow it to handle the high amounts of current put out by your ho alt.

anyways i hope this explained some stuff and i hope you'll take the time to learn about all this stuff because it really is a blast once you get into it. just my $.02
« Previous Thread Next Thread »



Main Forums

Today's Posts

Forum Help

Follow Us