Fuses amp ratings etc....please help!


Bronze Member
Username: Shaun_whitaker

Post Number: 33
Registered: Feb-06
ok so i have a kenwood kac-9152d the amp has 2 30 amp fuses (30 x 2). i just bought a 4 gauge amp wiring kit with a 60 amp fuse. is that right? is that what i was supposed to do is add the current consumption of the amP? okay and one more question i have a solobaric 12L5 that handles 1200w max and the amp is rated at 1800w max. am i going to run into some trouble with these power ratings? will i blow the sub with the gain set low? or what?

Gold Member
Username: Tjmutlow

Post Number: 1538
Registered: Sep-05
that amp is 1ohm stable for most power, if that sub is a dual 4, your only loading them amp to a 2ohm, so you should be ok.

Bronze Member
Username: Shaun_whitaker

Post Number: 34
Registered: Feb-06
yeah the sub is dual 4 ohm. but what should i do wire the sub to 8 ohms and turn the amps gain up. or wire it down to 2 ohms and turn the gain down real low. because the sub handles 600w rms and the amp puts out 900w rms @ 2 ohms. so what should i do. and also no one answered my fuse question. and also is the 1800w max is that put out during testing @ the lowest load possible?

Bronze Member
Username: Shaun_whitaker

Post Number: 35
Registered: Feb-06
can anyone help?

Bronze Member
Username: Ctmike


Post Number: 35
Registered: Feb-06
i might be wrong about the fuses to, but that is how i have mine ran. i was told that at long as your fuse meets/exceeds the requirement by the amp and there put in right, then your good.

New member
Username: Nissankicker

Grambling, LA USA

Post Number: 5
Registered: Mar-06
ok ok ok!... I'm here now, * Sorry for the wait *

You said that your amp has (2) 30A Fuses and the 4 gauge amp kit came w/ a 60 fuse * What kind of fuse do you have: MAXI or " The CYLINDER ". This is the deal with that. RIGHT NOW, your battery fuse(60) is evenly matched with your amp, that's good BUT also kinda bad.

Reasons why GOOD:
1) Perfect current from the battery to the amp.

Reasons why BAD:
1) If your amp gets alittle over warm, one of those fuses is goin' to blow, most likely it's goin' to be the 60. * The only reason why the fuse is there is to protect your amp *

2) You won't be able to have your gain up for a long time, and you won't be able to blast your music * Long time meaning 7+ minutes w/ no interruptions, with the speaker(s) wired down *

OK! When I just had 4 gauge in my car, I took out the 60 MAXI and bought a 100A MAXI fuse. This helped because it's goin' to hold more current, so it won't blow! and it allows you to turn up your system without the risk off blowing your fuses. Soo, I'd recommend you get a bigger fuse for the front.

SUBJECT - Will the amp blow the speaker
The answer is NO!!! * Unless it's not broken in it * I have (2) Kicker S12L7s on a Boss Rip-D3 Class D 3000 watt amp. The L7s hold 750-800 rms/per sub, and they're bridged down to 1 ohm. My amp pushed 2200 watts RMS @ 1 ohms... So basically, i'm flooding my speakers, but I only have my gain up on 15 * If you think about a clock, and I hit 138db. with it like that, and CD player on 20.

WHAT I'M SAYING IS, your sub(s) is/are goin' to get the total amount of RMS the amp puts out, the gain is only a VOLUME controller. If it's not broken in, wire it to 8ohms and blast away! * do it in SERIES, not just runnin' off of 1 Voice Coil, that's not 8 ohms * if it IS broken in, wire it down to 2 ohms, and turn you bass on your CD Player to " 0 " and turn your amp up half way, and don't mess with the amp gain anymore, just tun the amp up by your CD Player. Your aren't goin' to blow your speaker like this, you will if you blast, and have EVERYTHING UP!

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