I have two JL amps running right now, 500/1 and 300/4 for a total of 800 watts RMS. I also have a 180 amp HO alternator installed. The problem with my setup is that I don't think my alternator is producing enough amps at idle. I don't run my system with my car off often, but sometimes stopped at redlights or sitting at idle for a long time, my lights severely dim, and sometimes the amp even shuts off. First off, is there an "easy" way to fix this by changing at how many RPMs my car idles. I figured the better solution is to get a new battery. What do I want, red top, yellow top?
hmm thats odd, because even at idle a 180A alternator should produce enough power for 800w. i dont know aything about changing how manyy rpms your car idles at but i know an xstatic batcap 800 is a great little battery. id wait for other peoples opinions though. thats something i dont have enough experience in yet.
that is an odd problem. maybe you need bigger wiring from the alternator or your amp ground or power is faulty. 180 amp alternator should run those amps without breaking a sweat even at idle. i would make sure all of your wiring is good. for using that as your regular battery people usually get 3 or 4 of them to fill the factory battery spot and parallel them. That would be a great setup, but probably isn't the problem. If your wiring is good then maybe you have a weak battery that isn't allowing the alternator to work fully. Is you car slow to start?
no, well they are made for import cars that are trying to be lightweight but are also made for car audio where you would put it in the back of the car. its like 70 battery and 30 percent cap. so yeah its made for running systems. i had one it worked vry well but my brother needed a really low profile battery so i let him have it and he gave me his stinger 1000 and the batcap outperforms it.
but it can start an engine i belive. id advise you to have a regular battery under ur hood though.
I have not yet gotten my big 3 upgrade, hopefully I'll be able to get it done in the next week or two. The reason I thought this was not the problem, is because I only have significant dimming when my car is at idle. Meaning, when i'm at like 800 RPMs, i need to turn the system down or my lights will dim like crazy and/or the amp will shut off. If I just put my foot on the gas slightly, and raise the RPMs to 1000-1100 RPMs, the problem goes away. I've also noticed that sometimes even with my volume level real low at idle, all lights in the car are dim, and when i raise the RPMs to about 1000+ everything gets significantly brighter.
However when I *really* turn my system up, I do have slight dimming regardless of the RPMs (and I know this is caused by my lack of the big 3 upgrade).
I know that Nate from excessive amperage said that the alternator won't produce full amps until about 1000 RPMs. Are my problems at low RPMs caused by the lack of the big 3 upgrade? My thinking was that if I don't experience light dimming when I'm driving around (unless I *really* blast it), it means my current wires must be transferring enough current to fufill the systems needs. How is the wiring then the problem at RPMs around 800. Shouldn't my existing wires be able to carry all the amps produced at this level?
Also, I know that the big 3 upgrade is necessary, I'm just lazy in getting around to doing it. I'm just trying to diagnose this current problem, which I figured was independent of the upgrade.
theres your problem.. without the big 3 the alternator can only put out so much.. its probably limiting its charging ability to slighty higher than stock.. should do the wiring asap, im sure your aware if you keep pushing it you will fry it .. it only takes a few min.. should use 2ga or 1/0 all the way around.. i doubt your existing wire is any more than 10 ga .. a new battery will do nothing.. id suggest a redtop under the hood though over a yellowtop if u plan on getting one anyways