Ok, So this is what im thinking about hooking up in my 2006 Ford Ranger..
Power Acoustic TS960-4 (100watt RMS) 4 Sony Explode 4-way 6"x8" speakers (65 watt RMS) 1 Bazooka BTA10200 10inch Self Powered Sub (200 watt RMS) Sony CDX M9900 head Unit
I have the exact details below, if that helps.
What im interested in knowing is that a "good" set up (im not looking for the top of the top, but if i can spend the same ammount of money or just abit more, for better sound, that'd be good to know).
Also, capicitors are the hot new thing... so i was wondering if I needed one for the 960watt amp (especially considering the fact that the Bazooka Subwoofer already has a 200watt amp in it. If I do need a capicitor, what size do i need? There are .5 farads and 3 farads and i dont know what all that means ^-^.
lastly, if you have any other tips, that would be a great help... Thanks.
SYSTEM DETAILS FOLLOW:
Sony Explode 4-way 6"x8" speakers H.O.P. woofer cone with rubber surround Paper balanced-dome midrange 13/32" PEI dome tweeter and 11/32" PEI dome supertweeter Power handling: 2-65 watts RMS Frequency response: 27-30,000 Hz Sensitivity: 92 dB Peak power handling: 250 watts Top-mount depth: 2-7/16"
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Sony CDX-M9900 CD Player
XM Ready 52 Watts Peak - 23.2 Watts RMS - CD-R, CD-RW, MP3 Playback - With Changer Control - 12 AM , 18 FM Presets - Preamp Outputs: 3 pair - With CD Text
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Bazooka BTA10200
* 200 watts built-in amplifier * 10" woofer with treated foam surround * RMS power output 200 watts * Peak power output 400 watts approx. * variable low-pass filter (50-250 Hz at 18 dB/octave) * line- and speaker-level inputs * power/signal harness includes 16" power and ground wires, 10" turn on and speaker input leads, RCA inputs, and auto turn-on jumper * frequency response 39-250 Hz * sensitivity 104 dB * dimensions: 10-1/2"W x 12-5/8"H x 21-1/2"L * 2-ohm impedance
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And a Power Acoustic TS960-4 960watt amplifier 100 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms (125 watts RMS x 4 at 2 ohms) » 250 watts RMS x 2 in bridged mode (4-ohm stable in bridged mode) » variable high-pass/low-pass crossover (40-250 Hz, 18 dB/octave) » variable bass boost (0-18 dB) » speaker- and preamp-level inputs » Tri-way capable (Tri-Way Crossover required) » preamp outputs » fuse rating: 2 x 25A » requires 8-gauge power and ground leads with a 60-amp fuse -- wiring and hardware not included with amplifier » 13"W x 2-1/4"H x 11"D » warranty: 1 year
jrmay
Unregistered guest
Posted on
I'm by no means a car audio expert but you probably don't need to have 6x8 main speakers since you'll have a sub. No need to be duplicating the low freqs with your mains. From a sound quality point of view, you're probably better off using 6.5 inch round speakers for your mains to compliment your sub rather than 6x8s. Should yield better overall midrange that way.
The problem with 6.5 inches is they dont fit in my car...
And, if you could refer me to a better place to post that would help. I've already bought the head unit, I've used Sony before, and know its a a good unit..
And, I also have used bazooka before, and I know it sounds good, and i see no point in getting a 2 channel amp and sub and box for such a Ford Ranger..
congratulations for having a spine mike. This forum has a very defined brand stereotype and Sony, unfortunately has been put out with the trash. Sony got a bad rep a few years back for making weak HU's, and for good reason IMO, but their recent units have been pretty solid. If you found one you like, great.
A cap is never, ever a need. Their main function is eye candy. Their electrical benefit is minimal, and their audible benefit is non-existent to me - subjective at best. My advice is to get everything that is essential done first - get the system up and running the way you want it, and if you want a cap at that point - go for it.
I think your set-up sounds ok. Something I would consider is only amping the front 6x8's, running the rears with the HU speakers outputs, and using the other two channels of the amp to bridge and run a better sub with a custom enclosure. I think you'd have SQ and SPL to gain by doing that.
If you don't like that idea - I'm sure what you're planning will work well for you.
i agree w/opti 100%. the only thing i would like to iterate about sony is that their es line was badass. then in the early 90's sony proclaimed that they could manufacture hu's using x% fewer parts. it was a big deal and crutchfield ran with it. i had the last of their es model hu's after this "improvement>" it sucked. so i think the main problem (among whatever others they may or may not have) is build quality. the company is so vast, that they can't stay in one place long enough anymore to make something that's of good quality. i wouldn't ecpect any of their units to last very long before needing repair. but i would certainly snatch their hu b4 i took an amp or sub (if forced, of course). very few (fewer and fewer) hu's are really worth too much nowadays anyway, imo.
iv got a sony head from their specialty series and i love it so dont worry about that...also i would find a way to put 6.5s in the front on an amp instead of useing 6x8s you might be able to buy plates that will adapt it or you could read back a few threads on converting 5x7 to 6.5 its like the same thing and not too hard...the 6.5s should destort after the 6x8s will...plus you could put in a nice pair of components