does anyone know what the rms power would be on this amp:
PYLE PL2280 500 Watts x 2 Output 1000 Watts x 1 Output (Bridged) Variable Hi/Lo Electronic Crossover Network Variable Bass Boost (0 to +18 dB @ 60 Hz.) Variable Input Level (Gain) Control Remote Turn On/Off Gold Plated RCA Inputs High Level Molex Input Power On LED Indicator LED Protection Indicator Bluye LED Level Display S/N Radio: > 95 dB THD: < 0.04% Frequency Response: 15 Hz-30 kHz Thermal Protection Overload Protection Short Circuit Protection Anti-thump Turn-on Dimensions: 10.9 in. (W) x 2.7 in. (H) x 12 in. (L)
maybe around 100 rms bridged, but who no's, since its a crappy amp. Good Companies only tell u the rms, because who cares about max watts
I actually own a pyle sound system. Every component is pyle. I have not had a problem with them. If you want a solid amp, I can honestly say the PLA 885 is an excellent amp. I haven't had a problem with it yet. They make a 2 channel in the same series as well. The PLA985. Generally when trying to determine the RMS for any type of audio equipment is gonna be somewhere around half of the max. I generally try buy amps based on what I am trying to run. If I have two twelves at 600 watts apiece, I buy something that matches it, preferablly a 1200 watt, which I am not sure that Pyle makes. BUt a 1400 would work just as well. If the MAX are equal, then the RMS should be close enough to not damage anything.
Ignore max settings, I hahave seen amps rated for example Ive seen some amps like pheonix digital say 1600watts and then you find an rms at 400 watts , Boss are even worse at about 4.5X rms. Never trust any company that lists only in peak! I searched before for half an hour to try and find rms numbers for a pyle and gave up, not a good sign
Hrmmm I see. Well when I kill the HU and turn it on, after a second of either one, my subs go "boom" really quickly. I think it's the way my HU had to be wired to bypass some sort of factory circuitry (remote had to be directly wired to the + on the HU wiring harness).
If you want to get the actual output power of a amplifier, take these steps.
Go inside and measure the +/- voltage of the power supply. The center leg of the output transistors is where you'll find these voltages. But don't go in probing if you don't feel comfortable doing it. A slip of the test probe can cause serious damage. Then use Ohm's law and the power formula to figure output power in RMS at zero clipping.
For instance: If you find +/- 35 volts:
V RMS = V peak x .707 or 35 x .707 = 24.7V RMS
output current = output voltage divided by the speaker impedance.
24.7 / 8 = 3.1 amps
Power out in Watts is amps x voltage
3.1 x 24.7 = 75.25 Watts RMS per channel @ 8 ohms.