I have a pioneer head unit with 2 anaconda subs, and some decent amp. not sure of brands, i bought the system off a friend, it originally cost 1500 total. Anyways, I had it all working for like 6 months, then some wires on my battery fell off (maybe rattled off?) so when the dealer fixed the lose wire (I believe it went to the alternator or starter motor) the subs worked for about a week. The one time i got in my car and they just weren't hitting. I checked all of the connecttions on the amp, capacitor, and subs. They all seemed to be fine.
If it means anything this is an oldsmobile silouette that has electric sliding doors and a tv in it (TV was disconnected in order to get the stereo hooked up)....and yes, the system is in a mini van
does your amp power up? Check all the fuses (amp, power wire, etc.) and see if they are all good. It has to be something to do with the wiring since you said that it worked before they touched your alt. Check to see if the amp light is on and if it's in protection or not, and if it is on, check the voltage at your amp. You should be getting about 12.5v with the engine off and about 14.4v with the engine on. Try these few things if you already havn't and see if that does anything. If not, come back here.
ok, by checking fuses i assume you mean the ones iin the mengine. There is a fuse box right next tro the battery, i can pull those out and look at them. The thing is, it worked for a week after the fixed teh alt, so i am not really sure. I don't reallly know how to check volts on my amp, i have to way to display i don't think, i could always go buy a voltmeter and check. And as for a light, i don't think there is any light to turn on. I'll doukbe check on that tomorrow as it is rther dark out now. Thanks for the help
This is me on another name (brinestar51). I looked at my fuses they were all fine. I looked at the amp power light and it was off. So the problem must be coming from the connect to teh battery. The red cable from teh battery looked like it had a solid connect although the rubber insulation was starting to melt. Is this caused by a short in the wiring? The fuse on the actual wire was still fine.
ok if you have too small of a gauge wire with a large amp on it (etc:1000w or better) it will cause the power wire to evently burn out (hence the melting) or the fuse on the red wire coming of the battery to the amp has burned out. to check that look at the fuse or use a multi-meter to check the resistance (it will read a 1 or more if it is good). another thing you could check is the fuse on the amp (if it has any) one more thing you could check is the ground wire off the amp some times they will get loose and you would never know it. if all that dose not work take the amp out of the trunk and direct wire it to the battery (just to see if the amp is blown) using know good wires, if the amp dosen't turn on is is f*cked-up. i hope this helps, e-mail me with the results--good luck!
Best thing to do is get a volt meter and touch the Negative termainl on the ground spot on the amp, and the positive terminal on the red power wire spot. You should get approx. 12.5v when car is off, and 14.4v when engine is on. Next, try putting the negative on the ground on the amp, and put the positive on the Remote (small blue wire usually that comes from your HU) and see if you are getting 12v there. If you are getting all your proper voltage and your amp still won't come on, it's either not receiving signal from the HU, or the amp fuses could be bad. Thats all I can think of
i have the remote hooked up and i checked the wires on that. They are fine. I think the problem is where the amp is wired to the battery. Somewhere the connection must be bad. I don't think the amp is dead, I wasn't even close to pushing its limits or over heating it. i go buy a voltmeter tomorrow. did i also mention one of my turn signal lights in blinking fast even though all my lights work fine? Any ideas on that or if they are related?
ok, this doesn't sound right so i am wondering if i have my multimeter on teh rigth settings (20 v under DC current) but with red on battery and black on car frame i got around .24 (in engine compartment) then in back of car at teh amp i got .04. Now neither of these sound anywhere close to correct. I didn't get a chance to check the fuse the engine was too hot. But if the fuse blew would that cause a butt load of resistance?