Noobie Question - Bridging for an add-on Subwoofer

 

New member
Username: Rarlyl8

Post Number: 1
Registered: Nov-05
Great Forum!

I am a real novice to audio and wiring, and thought I might be able to get some good help here. I want to add a subwoofer to my system, and am looking for the best route given my existing components. I really don't want to change the head unit, my existing amp or my existing speakers if I don't have to, but I would like to add either a powered sub or a non-powered sub and another amp. Since I am a novice with this stuff, I will give some specifics on what I have now. I have a Clarion Pro-audio head unit, a Rockford Fosgate Punch amp (4x40) and Boston Acoustic speakers (5.25 front and 6x9 rear). This system is about 7 years old, but it is in a leasure car that gets driven very infrequently. I would like to get a sub that is easy to add to this existing system, that will give good bass sound, and possibly be easy to remove periodically.

My main question is what should I get, and how can I wire it to this existing system? I don't believe the head unit or the amp have a sub output.

Any thoughts? Can I provide more information that might help you provide some answers?

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

John
 

Silver Member
Username: Bestmankind

Los Angeles, CA USA

Post Number: 198
Registered: Oct-05
just get a y adaptor and split your inputs to your rear channel of the amp. what gauge is your power cable to your existing amp. if it is thick enough you can get a fuse distribution block and add another from there.
 

Gold Member
Username: Rovin

Trinidad & T...

Post Number: 2110
Registered: Jul-05
Also what size of sub 10/12/15" ?

here is a wiring guide so u can check your cables

http://www.the12volt.com/info/recwirsz.asp
 

New member
Username: Rarlyl8

Post Number: 2
Registered: Nov-05
Thanks for the quick replies!

I am thinking probably a 10" sub. Also, assuming my wiring is heavy enough, how do I hook up the Y adapter? Are we talking about splitting the line level input for the rear channels from the head unit so that it goes into the Punch amp, and also into the powered sub? That sounds easy!! Any downsides to this approach?

Also, any recommendations on a good quality powered sub?

Thanks a lot!

John
 

Silver Member
Username: Bestmankind

Los Angeles, CA USA

Post Number: 201
Registered: Oct-05
you might want to think about getting a crossover so you only get the low signals going to powered sub or a second amp going to the subs
 

Silver Member
Username: Bestmankind

Los Angeles, CA USA

Post Number: 202
Registered: Oct-05
bazzoka? i don't know much about powered subs but from what i've seen your better off getting a second amp and another or maybe even a pair of subs.
 

Gold Member
Username: Rovin

Trinidad & T...

Post Number: 2114
Registered: Jul-05
Some 4 chan amps also have "sub-preout" RCA jacks ,which is provided so that u can get an input into your Sub amp without running another RCA wire all the way to your HU .

Check your amp to see if it has that feature ....

How much rms wattage in a 10" u are thinking about & what budget ???
 

New member
Username: Rarlyl8

Post Number: 3
Registered: Nov-05
Thanks!

Crossover makes sense. Assuming I can begin to understand where to get the signal from, I assume a crossover is an easy/cheap(?) direct wire in box, right? Do some of the powered subs come with built-in crossovers?

I am mostly trying to figure out where to get the signal wire from...a Y from the head unit or a "bridge" from the amp?

Thanks, and keep the comments coming please!

John
 

Silver Member
Username: Bestmankind

Los Angeles, CA USA

Post Number: 204
Registered: Oct-05
what my friend did was he went and got two y adaptors. all ends are female. he than took out the rear channel input from his amp and connected the y cable. than he got a set of short rca cables and ran it to two amps. he didn't do the y cable from the back of the HU rather from where his amp is at. i think it would be alot easier that way. he didn't use any crossovers or anything like that. his bass sounds great and his speakers still sounds like the way they were before he got the subs. now he just has more bass.
 

New member
Username: Rarlyl8

Post Number: 4
Registered: Nov-05
Thanks Chad! That's the kind of simple explanation I was looking for. Sorry for being so new at this. So, if I get a decent powered sub, like an Infinity BassLink or something similar, I can just Y the rear input into both the existing amp and the new powered sub. And if the powered sub has a built-in crossover, even better!

This sounds great and easy, and I think I will go this route unless someone pipes in that there are downsides to think about when going with the Y approach.

Thanks again!

John
 

Gold Member
Username: Rovin

Trinidad & T...

Post Number: 2115
Registered: Jul-05
there are different ways of doing the same .

Thats why when i looking for a new HU recently i chose a model (Premier 860 actually) that had both L & R rcas + an additional pair of rcas for subs
 

New member
Username: Rarlyl8

Post Number: 5
Registered: Nov-05
Excellent!

So now, tell me about this fuse distribution block for the power lead from my existing amp to the powered sub.

Also, does anyone here have any pics of a setup similar to what is described above?


Thanks,

John
 

New member
Username: Rarlyl8

Post Number: 6
Registered: Nov-05
Excellent!

So now, tell me about this fuse distribution block for the power lead from my existing amp to the powered sub.

Also, does anyone here have any pics of a setup similar to what is described above?


Thanks,

John

Thanks,

John
 

Gold Member
Username: Rovin

Trinidad & T...

Post Number: 2117
Registered: Jul-05
check on this site www.bcae1.com - they have a few diagrams & very detailed directions too .

www.the12volt.com is also a good read .......
 

New member
Username: Rarlyl8

Post Number: 7
Registered: Nov-05
Rovin,

No real ideas yet on the desired sub power or brand. For budget, I'd really like to stay under about $400 for the whole setup if possible. Any suggestions? Infinity? Bazooka? Kenwood?

Thanks!

John
 

Gold Member
Username: Rovin

Trinidad & T...

Post Number: 2118
Registered: Jul-05
How about this , 1 of each - Alpine is the curent rage right now .......

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=14954

&

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=14927

it can be found cheaper elseware

 

New member
Username: Rarlyl8

Post Number: 9
Registered: Nov-05
Thanks for the recommendation, Rovin!

Some nice stuff, but at a glance, it appears to be way more than I need. Doesn't this stuff outclass and outpower the rest of my system substantially? I really just want to add some nice bass without draining my car's electrical system and have no need to boom. Do you think this stuff is a little too "big" for what I am looking for and the rest of my components?

Thanks,

John
 

Gold Member
Username: Rovin

Trinidad & T...

Post Number: 2120
Registered: Jul-05
then do this package instead

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=13848

&

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=13200

catch u tomorrow morn around 11 - as i'm off to Upload
 

Silver Member
Username: Six

Flint, MI U.S.A.

Post Number: 168
Registered: Oct-05
Is there even such a thing as "Too much Bass" lol.
 

New member
Username: Rarlyl8

Post Number: 10
Registered: Nov-05
You're probably right, SiX, but I was just thinking in comparison to my other components. I think they are probably considered lower to mid level quality and power, and Rovin's stuff was looking pretty powerful. Just thinking of alternator/battery impacts, since I am trying to keep the rest of the system as-is if possible.

John
 

Bronze Member
Username: Rarlyl8

Post Number: 11
Registered: Nov-05
That setup looks great, Rovin! What kind of box would I build for that? Would this require any additional modifications to my electrical system? What guage wire would I need to attach to the power lead going into my existing amp, and what is this fuse distribution block mechanism?

Great knowledge and help here!!! Thanks!

John
 

Gold Member
Username: Rovin

Trinidad & T...

Post Number: 2122
Registered: Jul-05
Hey John - i'm back ....

Go with that 2nd package i showed u - it should not over power your existing speakers . u could always lower your gains too ....

Also since u clearly mentioned that u don't need 'booming' bass - then i'd suggest a SEALED box made to Alpine's specs .

300wrms is really not much electrical drain so i think your electrical system can handle it easily - unless u play it really loud for long periods & your ride came with a small alt . But u seem like a conservative listener that don't really blast it hard all the time ...

Read this link & u figure what wiring your system needs .....

http://www.the12volt.com/info/recwirsz.asp
 

Silver Member
Username: Bestmankind

Los Angeles, CA USA

Post Number: 208
Registered: Oct-05
john-heres a pic of the fuse distribution block

Upload

Rovin-

Upload
 

Gold Member
Username: Rovin

Trinidad & T...

Post Number: 2140
Registered: Jul-05
EVIDENCE ! - lol

Imagine how shweeet it will all be in a better looking & properly speced box ! ......Upload
 

Silver Member
Username: Bestmankind

Los Angeles, CA USA

Post Number: 211
Registered: Oct-05
yeah, i paid only $40 for this box. gotta build my own.
 

Gold Member
Username: Rovin

Trinidad & T...

Post Number: 2142
Registered: Jul-05
I'm gonna build mine with 1" though when i get my subs .

I find that 3/4 still tends to reasonate & thats extra work to do internal bracing using 3/4 ........
 

Silver Member
Username: Bestmankind

Los Angeles, CA USA

Post Number: 214
Registered: Oct-05
i don't even know what that box is tuned to. i had a box tuned to 30hz in my car when i made a single enclosure for my audiobahn right before these. the box tuned to 30hz sounds pretty good in my car. with these i am thinking maybe 32-34hz.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Rarlyl8

Post Number: 12
Registered: Nov-05
Great info, Chad, and thanks for the pics!

I thought about this some more last night, and had one more dumb question about the "Y" cable. Do I split the right rear or the left rear channel input, or does it matter? I'm guessing it doesn't matter, and also guessing that both left and right get the same amount of bass signal. If so, do I take both positive and negative from either right or left channel, or do I only use one or the other, positive or negative? I know I am showing my lack of knowledge and understanding, but that is why I came here to check with you guys.

Greatly appreciate everyone's thoughts here trying to help me, and especially appreciate Chad's patience.

Thanks,

John
 

Silver Member
Username: Bestmankind

Los Angeles, CA USA

Post Number: 229
Registered: Oct-05
split both cause mono amps have two inputs too. unless you get a powered subwoofer, cause i don't know about those.
« Previous Thread Next Thread »



Main Forums

Today's Posts

Forum Help

Follow Us