PLEXI-GLASS AND/OR FIBER GLASS BOX'S

 

JUST GOTTA QUICK QUESTION PEEPS!
IM GOING TO BUY OR MAKE MY OWN PLEXI/FIBER-GLASS BOXES....WHERE CAN I FIND SOME THAT IS THICK ENUFF? AND POSSIBLY COLORED LIKE NEON GREEN OR YELLOW OR SOMETHING? AND DOES ANYONE KNOW HOW THEY SOUND? ALSO SHOULD I MAKE IT JUST AN INCLOSURE OR SHOULD I MAKE IT PORTED ...I HAVE 2 AUDIOBAHN FLAME SERIES..."AW1206Q"...ANY POSTS ARE VERY HELPFULL...THANKS PEACE
KEEP BUMPIN
NATE
 

i also need to buy sheets of colored plxi glass for fund raiser party to decorate the tables if anyone can direct me to a source of plxiglass i would appreciate it
 

i know where to get your plexi glass at 1/8"3/16"1/4"1/2"and1-1/4" thicknesses priced per sq foot the thicker the more expensive. and i have figured out ways to tint it what ever color....but colored plexiglass is hard to find and also usualy doesnt come in that thick of sheet
 

Also looking for glass please help?
I'm usnig a computer at work so and it has limited email use so can you send it ot my address at yahoo.

faro_ra20@yahoo.com

Thanks.
 

Matt Eck
I'm tryin to build a all plexiglass box for 2 of the New 12 inch Rockford Fosgate Punch XLC series... I'm goin to home depot to get the plexi glass.Hope that helped.
aim sn:pyromatt6
if you need or have questions about anything.
 

Hey Matt Eck. I saw that you said you are making a box for your speakers. I was planning on trying to make one also, but I'm not sure how you would put the pieces together. Is there some kind of adhesive or glue, or do you just screw it together? I would think that screws would look bad though. Any suggestions? Thanks :)
 

I need 1 strong plexi glass box for my heli copter and it must be cheap! can any one help please!
 

the observer
i own a small stereo business and i am looking into building plexi glass boxes for some customers that have been asking, i was wondering what you would hold the plexi glass together with i figuered that you could use very thin screws and then silicone but i dont know, i have seen that most of the boxes are built out of 1/2" plexi glass but i didn't pay attention to how they are held together.
 

to make a plexi glass box you will need to get plexiglass that is atleast 1/2" thick or more. They do make a special adheisive for plex but i am not sure what it is called, but it is really runny. But you will have to do more than that. You need to predrill hole and run atleast two or three thin screws in each side and run a thin bead of clear silicone on the inside edges. Don't worry about how the screws will look because people won't care about that if you have a completely clear box, just make sure the screws aren't to long. Any Questions E-MAIL me
 

Anonymous
Yes, you must use a minimum of 1/2" plex. 3/4" is better. I've seen sheets of clear, colored, and smoke plex at www.selectproducts.com You can't find anything thicker than 1/8 or 1/4" at home depot. I've also seen some nice plexiglass boxes at www.subthump.com/aplexiglass.htm
 

motoman22
Plexiglass (or Lexan) must be bonded together using heat and chemicals. There are adhesives that claim to work but they don't, especially under the pressure that can be present in a high-powered sub cabinet.

Haven't you guys heard that lexan and/or Plexiglass resonate and muddy up the sound? Not the thing for a system where performance or quality are desired, good for high school kids who want neat looks but that's about where it ends.
 

megabass
I agree about the bonding process. It does require special adhesives and they do work. Well enough in fact to produce a very rigid, tightly sealed enclosure.

A well made plexiglass box can sound as good or better than any other material. Building with plexiglass is an art though. Simply not a do-it-yourself type of project. It is best left up to the professionals. Take a look at some of the items at this manufacturer's site http://www.gatelyaudio.com and you will see that plexiglass boxes are possible and very popular.
 

to make a plexi-glass box, ud need some thick glass, to put it together,what looks the best is to use some either verry shiney silver looking screws, or chrome bolts that are like screws, and to make colored plexiglass, pick the side that u want showing, sand the opposite side with any kind of sander with a fine grit sand paper and then paint, do not prime to those of u that are dumb enough to
 

Thee Internet Junklord
Open a yellow pages and find a plastics supplier near you. Industrial plastics suppliers will sell you cut-offs at substantially reduced prices. I used to get all my plexiglass that way when I was doing custom car work back in the stone age (early to mid 90's). Most of the suppliers will be curious enough about what you are doing to give you some hints as well. Go with 3/4" for entire boxes, you can get away with 1/2" for windows or panels. I've used up to 1", which is pretty steep in price.

Screws do work fine to hold the sides together, but you must predrill the holes. Use a drill bit with a stop collar to get everything the same depth, and try to get the alignment straight up and down so it doesn't look like some gimp the box. You see EVERY flaw with clear edges. Countersink the screw heads on the flat panels so the screws don't stick out. Get youself a carbide-tipped veining router bit with a 1/4" shank ($8-$9) and chuck it into your drill to make the countersinks - cuts the plexi like butter,

You'll also need a fairly ballsy table saw with a carbide tipped blade to make your panel cuts worth a damn. The more teeth on the blade the better, 40 is minimum and 80+ is better for a 10" saw. Don't be afrid to raise the blade in steps to make multiple cuts. Put masking tape on top of the line of cut to prevent chipout (if you've peeled the paper off the plexiglass already - bad, bad, bad). PS, don't stand behind the line of cut, the plastic shrapnel hurts. Be careful, the blade will try to push the material up as it cuts, much more so than with wood. It also melts the plastic as it cuts, gumming up the blade.

Break sharp outside corners with a router and carbide-tipped rounding over bit, then burnish the edges with a sanding block. Start out with 120-150 grit silicon carbide paper and water (the correct sandpaper is black, get it in the auto body section of your favorite store) and work up to 600-100 grit. Don't go to a finer grit until the saw marks disappear with the 120-150, then work your way up to 600-1000. I'd go 150, 220, 320, 400, 600, 1000.

Finish up by buffing the edges with a plastics polish (the goop they make to restore dull convertible rear windows) and burnishing them with a soft cloth. Presto, you now have smooth and nearly clear edges, as well as a very tired arm and elbow. If you want transparent edges, you have to flame-polish them with a propane torch. This is something of an art and you'll probably want to get plenty good at it on scraps before melting your shiny new $4 a square foot subwoofer enclosure.

I always just used clear silicone for sealant in the corners after the sides were assembled.

Good Luck, the more cash you invest into decent tools, the better your result will be when working with plastics/acrylics.
 

I make plexi boxes all the time the adhesive is called acrylic bond I believe, I'll check when I get into the shop. It is very difficult to work with and takes some skill. I work for a glass shop and anything over a 1/4 plexi is wicked expensive, but you can get any color you want, we have hundreds of color samples. If anyone is seriously interested in having one made contact me with all the dimensions and we can talk, oh I would not recommend drilling into plexi, it compromises the structure a great deal, lexan you can drill but it's double the cost and there is no adhesives out on the regular consumers market for it. If you have never made a plexiglass box I would not recommend doing it yourself, it cost a bit for the plexi and can be easily messed up.
 

Hey can anyone tell me where i could purchase an exact replica of David Blaine's plexiglass box he used to bury himself alive. I'm a massive fan and would love to have one.
Thanks
Steve
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